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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)


You can purchase these springs directly from us HERE

This weekend we got a chance to install the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs. Eibach springs have supported innumerable race and championship winners over the last two decades. In series as different as Formula 1 and NASCAR, the winning factor is often chassis setup and tuning. When everybody has comparable power, the guy who wins is the guy who can put that power to the ground-and maintain his momentum through the corners. This is one of the many reasons we chose Eibach lowering springs over the other available choices.

WARNING: If you are unfamiliar with the ins and outs of the ST's suspension system, please have a professional install these for you.

First, we pulled it into the shop and secured it on jack stands before we got started. Here are some pictures of it before the springs, and after for a comparison:

Before:





After:






As you can see, it’s pretty close to the advertised 1.0 inch (25 mm) in the front and 1.2 in (30 mm) the rear. You can see by the spring rate specs:
Spring Rate Front: 153-193 lbs/in (progressive)
Spring Rate Rear: 171-216 lbs/in (progressive)

We documented the install so this thread will be pretty image intensive.
1) First things first, get the wheels off, so you can see what you’re up against.
2)This kit is about as complete as you can get with lowering springs, it comes with bump stops and dust covers and the springs themselves, as you can see.



The rear bump stops are in the sleeves and you can’t see them in this pic. But they are there.
3) Here's a list of tool you will need:
Jack
Jack Stands
Sockets: 8 mm 10 mm 13 mm 15 mm 19 mm
T-30 Torx
Flat Tip Screw Driver
Wrenches: 17 mm
½ drive ratchet and 3/8 drive ratchet
Spring compressor (you can rent these at your local auto parts store, we happen to own a set)
4) Ok, now that we have all the tools together, let’s get started. You will need to pull the two t30 torx bolts out and the four panel clips out of the plastic cover that is above the strut mounts under the hood, easy enough:



You can see the bolts we need to get to hiding under there.





Here’s the drivers side torx bolt, there’s one just like it on the other side.



Here you can see one of the four clips we need to pull, all we need to do is slide a flat tip screw driver under the little recess that is under the head of it and gently pry it up and they pull out. Then we need to pull the rubber hood seal off to pull the plastic part out. We also need to pull the vent covers off to get to two bolts that hold the plastic piece that is under the top cover.




You can see here, the plastic piece that sits under the cover, there are just two 10 mm bolts that hold it on, take them out and you can easily pull this piece completely off the car and set it aside for now.
You can see the three bolts going through the strut tower brace here that hold the strut at the top. We’ll get to these in a minute, first, we need to work on the lower part.




5) We need to pull the accessories off the strut first, so, this bracket that holds the end link and the ABS wires was the first thing we pulled off. It takes a 15 mm in the nut itself and we had to put a 17 mm wrench on the back side to keep the bolt from spinning.



This bolt holds the brake line in place, takes an 8 mm to get it loose. Take it off and push the brake line to one side for the moment



6) Next on our list, is this bolt on the back side/ bottom of the spindle sleeve, take this one out and thread it into the opposite side of the hole
You can see here, we tried using just a standard screw driver at first, but it didn’t work so well, we ended up finding a flat piece of steel that we slid in between the gap and tightened the bolt down onto it and spread the gap open to allow the strut to slide out of the sleeve, you might need to step on the lug studs to push the spindle low enough to clear the strut.



Don’t forget to unplug the ABS wire. Just push the clip release and it pulls right off.




7) At this point, we just need to pull the top three bolts out on the top of the strut and it slides right out.
Now that we have the strut out, we need to get the stock spring off, to make room for our new Eibach lowering springs.
8) Place the spring compressors straight across from each other and tighten them down till they release the tension on the top-hat.
Once the tension is released, take the 19 mm wrench and loosen the bolt, the shaft might spin, so you might need to use a 5 mm allen wrench to hold the shaft while you take it off.




Now that that is done, here are the springs side by side, off the front, you can plainly see the difference here.



9) Next, we’ll need to pull the factory dust covers off this is pretty easy, they just basically pull of, they might take a little prying with a screw driver to get them started.



10) Now take the stock bump stop out.




11) Now we need to put the Eibach bump stop on the strut, it just slides right over the strut shaft.*




12) Next, just slide the Eibach dust sleeve right over the lower part of the strut over the bump stop. Now we are ready to place the Eibach springs on!



When placing your springs on, make sure they are properly lined up with the seats in the lower and upper mounts. Then, release the tension of the spring compressors and it’s ready to put back on the car.



This is a very important step, you want to make sure you place the strut top hat in the car with the notches facing the engine. Otherwise the bolts won’t line up properly and you will fight getting it back on.

13) Slide it up into the perch and thread your botls in. You can tighten these now, as the rest of the strut mounting process will be done on the bottom side.



14) Slide the lower part of the strut into the sleeve and tighten the 15 mm bolt down, now the strut is mounted, it’s time to re-attach the accessories.



15) First, we’ll bolt the brake line down with the 8 mm bolt



16) Then the end link and abs wire can be re-attached, remember to place the 17 mm wrench on the back side behind the bracket to tighten this one with your 15 mm socket.



Plug in the ABS sensor.



Reapeat these steps on the opposite side of the car and the front is done, now, on to the back!

When I first started at the rear of the car, I was worried it was going to be a pain, turns out, the rear was the easiest part of the whole install. So, here we go. This is what we are looking to replace, just the spring in the rear.




Rear:
1) Slide the jack under the spring perch and put a little tension on it so when you take the bolt loose it doesn’t recoil on you.



2) This is the bolt we will be taking out to get the spring out. It’s a 15 mm. just loosen it and pull it out.




3) Once you get the bolt out, just let the jack down slowly to release the tension of the spring and pull it out.




Here’s a shot of the stock rear and the Eibach lowering spring side by side, again, you can see the difference is pretty noticeable.



4) Here’s the Eibach spring in it’s new home. Now, we just need to jack the perch up and put the 15 mm bolt back in and put the bump stop in place and this side is done.

Auto part Tire Vehicle Engine Car

5) Here it is, installed with the bump stop.



Now, on this side, there was an issue, this is where we had to use a file, to finesse the steel on the mount to get the sleeve back in, it had a little burr on it and it took just a little bit of filing, chances are you won’t run into this issue, but we wanted to make you aware of it, in case it happens to you. This is a horrible picture, but you can see the left side of the mount, there was a burr on the bottom of it, preventing the bolt sleeve from going in place. After we cleaned it up slightly, it slid right into place.




Now that wasn't so bad was it? The fruits of your labor will be very worthwhile. When we initially talked about putting the lowering springs on, we expected the ride to worsen, but as it turns out, they ride almost the same as stock springs, with a more aggressive stance. I am quite impressed with ride quality and ease of install with these springs. They give you more control in the turns as well, being a progressive spring, they can increase the spring rates in the turns and give you more control.

We were also a little concerned with the difference in spring rate, as they do change it up a bit from stock, but we still experience the ST signature lift-off oversteer, and, since this is a daily driven vehicle, we were relieved that the ride quality had not worsened.

Overall, I have to say that these are a really good first step to modifying this vehicle and we look forward to the future changes to this car.

Thanks,
Corby
RallySportDirect.com
 

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Nice write up. I want a set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·















Includes Bump Stops: Yes
Drop Height Front: 1.0 in
Drop Height Rear: 1.2 in
Drop Height Front Metric: 25mm
Drop Height Rear Metric: 30mm
Spring Rate Front: 153-193 lbs/in (progressive)
Spring Rate Rear: 171-216 lbs/in (progressive)

Hi, I wanted to take this time to give you my impressions of the Eibach Pro Lowering Springs we recently installed on the White Sheep project here at RallySport Direct. When we first made the plans to install suspension components on this car, of course the first thing that I thought of was coilovers. Seems like this is the trend anymore, but I must say, after getting these on the car and driving it extensively, and sometime hard, they are a very good choice for a first suspension upgrade. These are progressive springs which means that while you drive normally, they act just like factory springs, only when you get into a turn hard, and really push your suspension to it limits is where you notice these kick in.

That being said, I must bring light to the ride quality while cruising. Wow, is about the best word I can come up with. Cruising down the highway, and normal everyday driving, in my opinion, these ride better than stock. The ride is quiet, smooth, and pleasurable. Now, taking this car very hard into a turn, you can immediately tell that you have the Pro-Kit installed. Man, the feedback is phenomenal, the stability is amazing. I think the only way you would get better handling than these spring would be with a full on coilover set.

All in all, this has got to be one of your first upgrades if you intend to modify your vehicle, the price is right, the quality is great, and I think these will complement the rest of the products we intend on installing on the White Sheep ST! Thanks for reading this quick little review, I hope you found it helpful and informative.

Corby Lines
RallySportDirect.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Ok, so after we put the springs on, we needed to check the alignment. So we took it to the shop and had them check it out for us. Everything was within factory spec other than the toe in on the front. No problem, we got that fixed. It was toed in 3/16 on the passenger side and 1/16 on the drivers side. Honestly, I expected it to be more out of alignment. One thing the guy aligning it said was, we should get the alignment camber arm kit to adjust the rear. It was within factory specs, but he said the factory allows for a bit of negative camber and that can cause cupping of the rear tires. We will get some pics for you guys a little later on. Thanks for reading!

Corby Lines
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Here are the pics from getting White Sheep aligned last night. It's good to get the car on an alignment machine so you have the specifics of where your suspension is sitting, especially after doing any suspension work. Here's the mechanic getting the reflectors mounted on the passenger rear wheel:



Once we had them all mounted on the car:



We had a pretty good idea where the problem was. You can see here, in this picture that the front toe is off (indicated by the red)



Here we are getting the toe adjusted into spec:



Aaah, much better! everything is green!



So here it is, all numbers in factory spec according to Ford's techs.




After getting this done, there is a good, solid difference in the way the car drives, it was pulling VERY slightly to the right, prior to the alignment, now everything is perfect again! We're glad to get this car ready for the next step which will be happening very soon, stay tuned and thanks for reading.

Thank you
Corby Lines
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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
The White Sheep receives a COBB Tuning AccessPORT and heads to the dyno for Baseline and Stage1 Numbers!!!






Event: Dyno Tune/ Product Testing
Location: ZipTie Dynoworks, Salt Lake City Utah.
Ambient Temp: 50-55
Ambient Pressure: 12.7psi/ 86kPA
Elevation: 4600ft
Effective Altitude: 4410ft
Weather: Sunny
Car: 2013 Ford Focus ST
Tuner: Cobb Tuning AccessPort
Dyno Info: Mustang
Transmission: 6spd
Gear: 4th
Peak HP stage 1 Cobb Accessport: 223WHP Corrected
Peak Torque stage 1 Cobb Accessport: 317WTQ Corrected
Baseline hp/tq for a stock on same day/same dyno: 214 HP / 293 Torque
Fuel: 91octane.

Engine/Power Modifications:

Cobb Tuning AccessPort

Drivetrain:

Stock


Stock shown as dotted line, Stage 1 Accessport 91 v102 map show as solid line



Here’s a little video of it with the runs back to back, notice the boost doesn’t really increase that much. But the hp and torque sure do! WTG Cobb.



Conclusion from our Test:

This little car made much more torque than any of us expected. On stock tune it made more torque than the factory rates them at the flywheel. I must say, you can definitely tell this as well, by the amount of off-the-line power this car has. We ran the car three times on the stock tune, then three times on the stage 1 tune. Looking at the logs, WOW, the amount of heat soaking we get from the intercooler’s inefficient design is staggering! We reached temps upwards of 200 degrees at one point. We’re positive that the stage 2 intercooler upgrade from Cobb will be a nice addition to this platform. All in all, this was a great outing and we learned a lot about how this car performs. We’re looking forward to getting more products installed on White Sheep and keeping you guys updated with it’s progress! Thanks for reading, we hope you enjoyed it!

Corby Lines
RallySportDirect.com

 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)


White Sheep gets a Cobb rear motor mount!

If you would like more product information, you can click any of the images below, or click HERE.

First, let’s give you the rundown about the mount itself.

Mfgr. Warranty: 1 Year
Color: Blue
Durometer: 85A
Material: Aluminum

Now, here’s what RallySport Direct has to say about it:

The COBB Rear Motor Mount is the best way to minimize engine movement, improve traction, and reduce wheel hop without major impact to NVH. Typical bushing designs can rattle your teeth out at idle or during throttle input. The COBB RMM utilizes unique “voids” custom molded into the 85A durometer bushing to absorb vibrations, but still reduce engine movement to aid getting all the power to the ground. The beautifully machined 6061 billet aluminum mount with zinc hardware will make you sad you have to hide it under your car, but you will be grinning at every stop light!

Here’s a list of the tools you’ll need to do this yourself:

3/8 ratchet

Sockets: 13mm, 15mm

Wrenches: 13mm 15mm

Jack, Jack stands

10 mm hex key for the Cobb mount bolt.

Ok, on to our review/install. We decided it was time to replace that poorly designed factory rear motor mount on White Sheep. We took it around and drove it hard a couple times to see what it felt like, and it was horrible. We can understand the direction behind the design of the factory mount, they wanted to build it in such a way to keep costs down, while at the same time having a performance mount that would let you know when you are pushing the car a little harder than they recommend. Well, enough of that, we decided to go with the Cobb RMM. Here’s what they look like when we ship them to you:



Open it up and here’s what you’ll find, stickers, thank you card, and under all of that, and some protective foam, a pretty blue motor mount, it’s almost a shame to hide something that looks this great on the bottom side of the engine.





Here’s a look at the factory mount, the part we are replacing is held in with just two bolts that you can see here, one going vertically, one horizontally, but in order to get the mount out of its seat, we’ll have to get that pesky mount that attaches to the down pipe and engine out of the way.



You can see all the bolts aside from two in this picture here, they are hiding, but easy enough to get to. Pay special attention to the bolts on the rear of the mounts, those ones require a wrench to get to as there is not enough room to get a ratchet back there.



You can see here, me working on the upper/rear mount bolt, thank goodness for ratcheting wrenches!



Here is one of those bolts that weren’t shown in the first picture. Easy enough, 15 mm socket/ratchet, and it’s out!



These bolts have studs on the ends of them so you can slide the bracket for the downpipe onto them and hold it in place, just make sure you put them back on in the right places.





So after you have everything pulled off, it’s time to slide the new Cobb RMM in place and bolt it down. Here’s a shot of all the parts you have to take off in order to get the mount out.



Now that we have them all out, now we just need to slide everything back in, and throw that nice, blue Cobb mount back in place of the stock unit and we’re all done. Now my camera died towards the end of this install, so I just have a shot of the mount installed, but once you get this far along, putting all back together is pretty easy. Just make sure you use the right bolt in the mount through the sub-frame, and the Cobb mount comes with a bolt to hold the mount to the engine.



All finished, now, I will say after getting this installed, I knew to expect a bit of vibration from it, and it was about exactly what we were expecting. When the engine RPM is below 1200, there is a noticeable amount of vibration in the cabin and steering, it’s not bad enough to be a deal breaker, but it isn’t as smooth as a stock mount. You should expect this going in, as the stock mount is basically a mushy piece of rubber mounted to a flimsy piece of aluminum.
The Cobb mount all but eliminates the bang you get from 1-2 and 2-3 is gone.

Corby
RallySportDirect.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
White Sheep's first oil change.


This is RallySport Direct’s documentation of the first oil change of our White Sheep Ford Focus ST!

When we were talking about getting the oil change done, we wanted to do some research to find out the best way to approach it, and when people were doing theirs. We found this site to be very helpful and informative and we wanted to add to the resources.
We decided to get the oil change done at close to 900 miles on the clock. We were going to wait until 1000 miles, but we wanted to get this thing on the dyno so we can get you guys some more figures to work with when building your own ST, so we could wait no longer.

First thing on the list was to get the car in the air, and secured by some sturdy jack stands.



We got the hood open to see how things looked under there, everything looks perfect:





So, we picked up our oil. In this case we picked up some 5w-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic motor oil and a Motorcraft Silicone valve oil filter.
Part number of the oil filter we used:

Motorcraft FL-910S





Next on the list was to get the tools together so we can get this thing started.

Tools Needed:

15 mm wrench

3/8 drive ratchet

T-30 torx bit.

Oil catch pan

Torque wrench capable of 21ft lbs (not pictured)

Oil filter wrench (not pictured)



Great! Now that we are all prepared, let’s get started, shall we? Let’s get under there and take a look at what we are up against: As you can see, Ford was nice enough to cover EVERYTHING under the car. No problem, we can get these off and see what’s under there.




1) So, we need to take our T-30 torx bit, (remember, the one from the Eibach springs install?) There are three of these screws holding the front air lip on, two are pictured here, one is slightly off screen to the right, just to the right of the arrow.



2) Ok, now that we have that off, let’s set that aside for now. Try to keep the screws with it.



2b) Now that we have that out of the way, there are eight T-30 torx screws holding the other cover on, two, of the three, on the front are pictured here, there is one more to the right of the image on the front, then two on the sides, and three more on the very back of the cover.



3) There, now that we have that out of the way, I want to mark the holes that the longer two screws go into. You can see here in the pic which ones they are, marked by the red circles.



4) You can see the difference in the screws here, they are slightly longer. No big deal, just keep track of them for when we re-install the cover.



5) With no covers in the way, you can see what we have under there, the oil filter is right up front and center, and the drain plug is on the back side by the intercooler piping. Let’s get these things off and take a look at the oil.



5b) This is simple, just like any other oil change, take the drain plug out,



6) The oil will now drain into your catch pan you sat underneath the plug area. Oil doesn’t look too bad.



7) Now we can take the oil filter off. Careful, this can get a bit messy, wear gloves if available.



7b) Ok. There we go, all off, now, wait until the oil drains out completely.



8) This would be a good time to prime our Motorcraft oil filter. Be careful here, or use a funnel, I prefer no funnel because there is less of a chance you might overfill and spill. But to each their own.
8b) Now that we have it mostly primed, I like to dip my finger in the oil and lube up the oil seal ring for a good seal to the seat.
8c) All good, let’s move on to the next step.
Now we can thread the oil filter on to the block. Looks good so far!



9) Next, thread on the oil drain plug, and torque to 21 ft lbs Now we can start re-filling the oil, put about half of the single quart in, and check for leaks. If all is good, put the rest of the oil in to get to your factory 5.7 qts and let it drain to the oil pan (about 5 minutes or so) and check your oil. Now, back down below to replace all those covers.



10) You will want to put the big cover on first (obviously) I usually start with the two outside screws (the longer ones) to hold it in place, while I put the other six in. You can see here, if you put the front lip on first, you’ll cover the holes on the front of the cover.



11) Here’s something we should mention, put the lip on with the lip toward to rear of the car otherwise the screw holes won’t line up.



11b) You also have these little plastic clips that line everything up, make sure you snap them into place before screwing your lip back on.



Well, that was easy. Now start the car and make sure you have oil pressure, if you do not, shut the engine off immediately and make sure you don’t have a leak and that you put enough oil in. Once you check everything, and you have oil and no leaks, try starting your car again, you should have oil pressure almost immediately. If not, contact a mechanic.

After this is all said and done, don’t forget to take your oil to your nearest auto parts store and recycle your used oil.

Now we should be good for another eight to ten thousand miles! We hope you enjoyed reading this little tutorial, we know there already is one available on this site, but we just wanted to make one of our own so we can document the progress we’re making on this fun project! Enjoy the rest of your day! Thanks for reading.

Corby
RallySportDirect.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·


White Sheep gets a Cobb intake!

For more information about the COBB intake click any of the images below, or THIS link!


Here are some specs for you:

Mfgr. Warranty: 1 year
Filter Color: Blue
Filter Element Type: Wet
Filter Material: Cotton
Filter Reusable: Yes
Piping Color: Black
Piping Material: Aluminum
Tuning Required: No

And here’s what RallySport Direct has to say about it:

The COBB Intake for the Focus ST takes a great airbox design and makes it even better! They improved upon the factory airbox ram air ducting by including an oiled dual cone filter to increase airflow and to hear that great turbo sound. The constrained piping to the turbo is replaced with 3" mandrel bent aluminum tubing to maximize air flow while custom silicone couplers ensure a perfect OEM-like fitment. The COBB Intake is the perfect first step towards Stage 2 power levels when paired with the COBB FMIC!


Tools needed:

Sockets: 9/32, 5/16, deep 12 mm

3/8 ratchet

¼ ratchet, with extensions

Next on the list for the White Sheep project car is a COBB intake. We documented this install as best we could, our camera was dead so there won’t be a lot of pictures, but we’ll explain as we go.
First, here’s the stock intake. You can see it’s somewhat unsightly. So what we needed to do to get this off is take out the mount for the engine cover on the left in this picture, and the two other bolts pictured, it made it a lot easier to disassemble the intake to get it out so undo the hose clamps to get it to come apart.



We took the cam angle controller line off and moved it out of the way, the only thing you need to do to get it loose is pinch the two sides of it and it pulls right off. Then we pulled the cover off the intake box, exposing the stock filter element. It just pulls out of the airbox. There are 4 screws that hold the airbox together, two are pictured here, and two are slightly out of the shot. You will also need to take the sensor off the elbow going into the airbox. All of these screws are a simple 5/16. Next we pulled the hose clamps loose to make them all easier to pull off. There are two screws holding the elbow to the airbox, don’t forget to pull them loose prior to getting the elbow off the car.



Once we have all the stock intake stuff out of the way (there is a hose clamp that takes a 9/32 socket on the turbo inlet on the back of the engine, it was somewhat tricky to get to, but not so bad) we needed to start putting the COBB parts in place. Here you can see we placed the intake hard pipe. It slipped right into place, the only trick we found that helped was putting the silicone coupler on the turbo inlet prior to putting the hard pipe in place. It would be a bit more difficult to do it after the fact. So, here’s a picture of the progress so far, looks good:



You can see in this image the mounting location for the bolt that they supply in the kit that comes with the intake. Don’t mount this quite yet, you’ll want to make sure you get everything in place and ready to go, then bolt it down. We show you in this picture the mounting locations for the air box, we found it much easier to get the coupler and the stock elbow mounted with the airbox out of the way. Just pull the rubber covers off of the front air inlets and give the airbox a little tug and it will come out. Place the coupler than came with the kit on the end of the hard pipe, slide the factory elbow on, put the airbox back in, get your angle right. Slide it into the airbox, replace the two screws that hold the elbow in the airbox, and fit the green filter on the end in the airbox. Now tighten that clamp down and replace the top of the airbox.



After all that, here’s what you’ll end up with. Looks clean, performs well, sounds great.



You can see then end of the filter is open, as opposed to the factory filter has a closed end. This makes the bypass valve much more noticeable. You can hear the turbo a lot more now.



Well, now that we finished that up, take the car out for a drive and flog it a few times and you will instantly know that you changed the intake. I mean the sound has improved 10 fold. As far as performance goes, I can’t really say if there is a noticeable gain in power since we haven’t had it on a dyno, but there is definitely more air going into the turbo. All in all, we are very happy with this install. It wasn’t terribly difficult to do, and it is fairly inexpensive. Thank you for taking the time to read our write up on the COBB intake, we look forward to getting some more products installed and giving you our opinion on them all!

Corby Lines
RallySportDirect.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Quick little update on White Sheep, on the way to work it threw the "headlamp" error message on the screen. It said that the car needed service, it flashed for maybe .3 seconds and turned back off. It hasn't came back on since, this was at mile 1728. We consulted a friend that is a ford tech at a local dealer and he said sometimes the cars have little issues that work themselves out, but if it continues, to bring it in. So far this has been the only issue we have experienced. We are still having a great time driving the car around. Can't wait to have some more performance and appearance updates for you guys! Stay tuned!

Thanks
Corby
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Ok guys, we dont like posting this type of stuff here, but this is WAY to good of a deal to pass up!




LIMITED TIME OFFER! ACCESSPORT for the Focus ST 404.10 Shipped in the lower 48 states!



CLICK ON ANY IMAGE IN THIS POST OR THE LINK BELOW TO ORDER TODAY!
CLICK ON ME FOR BEST PRICE ON THE ACCESSPORT!
COBB Tuning AccessPORT Ford Focus ST 2013 at RallySportDirect.com

Power Gains:
Stage1 87: +10% HP / +18% lb-ft
Stage1 91: +11% HP / +19% lb-ft
Stage1 93: +12% HP / +25% lb-ft


The AccessPORT is the most user friendly reprogramming device for your vehicle's computer. The provided mapping will optimize the air/fuel ratio and ignition timing, remove the speed limiter, and more for performance results you can instantly feel!

However, the AccessPORT is so much MORE than just a REFLASH DEVICE. It allows you to monitor your Fuel Economy (average and real time), perform performance tests in order to estimate your 0-60mph and 1/4 mile time, read and decipher ECU trouble codes (CELs), and monitor live data via the OEM vehicle sensors which eliminates the need for aftermarket gauges.

Giving you full control over the installation without removing your ECU ....the AccessPORT is truly more than just a programmer, it is the ultimate all-in-one solution for the Focus ST enthusiast!

Please Note: This package will only work with North American Focus ST's
Stage 1 Kit Includes:
- AccessPORT
- Quick Start User Guide
- USB Cable
- OBDII Connector
 

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We got everyone together for a family portrait of RallySportDirect shop cars:p

2011 STi, 2013 BRZ, 2013 Speed3, 2008 EVO X, and the ST :)


Kirill
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And the ST looks the modest of them all! :D

Curiously, which shop car is your favorite, or the most fun to drive?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Having driven them all, its hard to say to be honest as they all have a strong point and weakness. It could be argued that one is by far better then another, and so forth. But its hard to compare as all are quite different.

The BRZ/FR-S is by far the most fun out of the box, but is SUPER slow.
The EVO will make the fastest road race car and make the most power the easiest, but its a terrible daily driver (had one for about 10 months)
The STi is probably the best overall as far as performance per dollar, but it will never be the best at anything. Also notorious weak factory pistons can lead to a motor build much faster then anyone wants.
The MS3 is the easiest to drive and has some very nice creature comforts for the money. And just like the ST has traction problems LOL.

As they sit right now the STi is probably the most fun, but its been around for about 2 years as a shop car and has by far the most stuff done to it. But given you spend the same amount that we have into each of these other cars, and they would all be a blast!

Kirill
RallySportDirect.com
 

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Thanks for the write up. Those are all great cars, and like you said, each has distinct advantages and disadvantages! However, I think it's safe to say no matter which set of keys you are handed, a good time shall ensue!

I'm going to venture a guess and say the STi hasn't had any ringland issues?

Looking forward in seeing the White Sheep continue its progress. :)
 
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