How does it feel compared to stock? I'm looking at doing same sway bar with soft setting.also, I’m running stock suspension. I set the bar a softest setting and was wondering if anyone else is rocking the whiteline RSB at the stiffest setting while running stock suspension. If, so, how does it perform?
Stock links should be ok if you set at softest setting. Just make sure to tighten all bolts as they can come loose and you will noticeI plan on upgrading the rear sway bar only (Whiteline BMR93Z 24mm), and install with the 'softer' option on the sway bar to gain a 42% stiffer setting over OEM (https://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Update BL-281.pdf).
Considering I don't have a lowered vehicle, would the stock end links be OK?
The stock rear endlinks bind when cornering hard. Binding means a snap spin and leads to bent/broken endlinks. Upgrade them to a better style because thicker stock-style endlinks are not the answer.Considering I don't have a lowered vehicle, would the stock end links be OK?
This is exactly what I did. I love the set up. Also added Konis and swift springs along with polyu bushings on the stock front bar. Finally I put on some TBperformance bracing. Other than the Konis nothing really cost that much. Have fun!So I have done a fair amount of reading on the topic and the stock sway bar has a flat spot. Several members here have posted pictures of the bushings and bar, while other's have championed the need for a regular sway bar AND end links that articulate at the top AND bottom. But this lead me down the path of "Why would Ford do this?"
First a quick recap of what we know or should know: A flat bar/bushing creates bind in a sway bar. At the limit this can give unpredictable handling leading to snap oversteer or difficult to control rear when cornering on a slippery or uneven surface. The purpose of binding the bar is to prevent rotation at the bushing and create the "Feeling" of a sway bar of a stiffer strength. However, what it is really doing is it changes the sway bar to a one sided torsion bar, in effect applying and then releasing more pressure on one side than the other (The opposite of the desired effect of a sway bar to transfer load from one side to the other.) For normal driving/drivers, it feels responsive/sporty and 90% of owners will never take the car to the limit or know what they are feeling vs. a proper sway bar.
So the answer, as far as I can figure, is that a smaller sway bar and a single pivot endlink cost less to manufacture. But this raises an entirely new question when going to aftermarket. If the OEM design mimics a stiffer sway bar, how big or stiff of a bar do you need to stay closest to the OEM feel, while gaining proper transfer of load to each side without binding. There are many opinions out there. For myself, when I can afford it, I'm thinking Whiteline bar and endlinks will be an ideal starting point. And as second reason for adjustable endlinks, like Whiteline, with multiple setting bars, you can adjust the endlink length to to be optimal for the hole selected (which affects the angles of the bar and link).
Anyone what to add to or edit my thoughts?