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Installed a whiteline adj. RSB today and was wondering about the bracket position. Is there a specific position that it should be at?
i left bracket and end link bolts loose and tighten with the car on the ground.

also, I’m running stock suspension. I set the bar a softest setting and was wondering if anyone else is rocking the whiteline RSB at the stiffest setting while running stock suspension. If, so, how does it perform?

cheers!
 

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also, I’m running stock suspension. I set the bar a softest setting and was wondering if anyone else is rocking the whiteline RSB at the stiffest setting while running stock suspension. If, so, how does it perform?

cheers!
How does it feel compared to stock? I'm looking at doing same sway bar with soft setting.
 

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How does it feel compared to stock? I'm looking at doing same sway bar with soft setting.
Huge difference compared to stock. Specially in the stiffest setting, which is what I’m at right now. I’m satisfied. Just upgrade to WL endlinks too
 

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I plan on upgrading the rear sway bar only (Whiteline BMR93Z 24mm), and install with the 'softer' option on the sway bar to gain a 42% stiffer setting over OEM (https://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Update BL-281.pdf).

Considering I don't have a lowered vehicle, would the stock end links be OK?
Stock links should be ok if you set at softest setting. Just make sure to tighten all bolts as they can come loose and you will notice
 

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Huge difference compared to stock. Specially in the stiffest setting, which is what I’m at right now. I’m satisfied. Just upgrade to WL endlinks too
Did you notice any increase in oversteer, going from softer to stiffer setting?
Did you do the front sway bar too?
 

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Nope. Not really, but I’m sure someone else’s driving might say otherwise.
i did notice under steering, but one of my endlinks was loose.
i did not swap out the front sway bar.
From what I’ve read and experienced, switching the fsb isn’t necessary as the Fost is a great handling car as it is.
But to each their own
 

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Considering I don't have a lowered vehicle, would the stock end links be OK?
The stock rear endlinks bind when cornering hard. Binding means a snap spin and leads to bent/broken endlinks. Upgrade them to a better style because thicker stock-style endlinks are not the answer.
 

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So I have done a fair amount of reading on the topic and the stock sway bar has a flat spot. Several members here have posted pictures of the bushings and bar, while other's have championed the need for a regular sway bar AND end links that articulate at the top AND bottom. But this lead me down the path of "Why would Ford do this?"

First a quick recap of what we know or should know: A flat bar/bushing creates bind in a sway bar. At the limit this can give unpredictable handling leading to snap oversteer or difficult to control rear when cornering on a slippery or uneven surface. The purpose of binding the bar is to prevent rotation at the bushing and create the "Feeling" of a sway bar of a stiffer strength. However, what it is really doing is it changes the sway bar to a one sided torsion bar, in effect applying and then releasing more pressure on one side than the other (The opposite of the desired effect of a sway bar to transfer load from one side to the other.) For normal driving/drivers, it feels responsive/sporty and 90% of owners will never take the car to the limit or know what they are feeling vs. a proper sway bar.

So the answer, as far as I can figure, is that a smaller sway bar and a single pivot endlink cost less to manufacture. But this raises an entirely new question when going to aftermarket. If the OEM design mimics a stiffer sway bar, how big or stiff of a bar do you need to stay closest to the OEM feel, while gaining proper transfer of load to each side without binding. There are many opinions out there. For myself, when I can afford it, I'm thinking Whiteline bar and endlinks will be an ideal starting point. And as second reason for adjustable endlinks, like Whiteline, with multiple setting bars, you can adjust the endlink length to to be optimal for the hole selected (which affects the angles of the bar and link).

Anyone what to add to or edit my thoughts?
 

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I agree with your assessment of of the stock rear bar.I remember years ago when I could jerk the steering wheel going into a turn and get the snap effect.Then I got fs werks rsb not snappy but better in overall stiffness.After less than a year it was getting dull to much under steer.Having owned 09,12,14 year Mazda 3 which I put jbr 32 mm rsb in each one I knew it was time to put the big bar on the back of fost. Drove about a year on soft hole.Have been on stiff setting 2 months and it is definitely what this car needs.It still is not to stiff. Makes car many times more fun.I run summer tires only and would recommend starting off with soft setting.
 

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So I have done a fair amount of reading on the topic and the stock sway bar has a flat spot. Several members here have posted pictures of the bushings and bar, while other's have championed the need for a regular sway bar AND end links that articulate at the top AND bottom. But this lead me down the path of "Why would Ford do this?"

First a quick recap of what we know or should know: A flat bar/bushing creates bind in a sway bar. At the limit this can give unpredictable handling leading to snap oversteer or difficult to control rear when cornering on a slippery or uneven surface. The purpose of binding the bar is to prevent rotation at the bushing and create the "Feeling" of a sway bar of a stiffer strength. However, what it is really doing is it changes the sway bar to a one sided torsion bar, in effect applying and then releasing more pressure on one side than the other (The opposite of the desired effect of a sway bar to transfer load from one side to the other.) For normal driving/drivers, it feels responsive/sporty and 90% of owners will never take the car to the limit or know what they are feeling vs. a proper sway bar.

So the answer, as far as I can figure, is that a smaller sway bar and a single pivot endlink cost less to manufacture. But this raises an entirely new question when going to aftermarket. If the OEM design mimics a stiffer sway bar, how big or stiff of a bar do you need to stay closest to the OEM feel, while gaining proper transfer of load to each side without binding. There are many opinions out there. For myself, when I can afford it, I'm thinking Whiteline bar and endlinks will be an ideal starting point. And as second reason for adjustable endlinks, like Whiteline, with multiple setting bars, you can adjust the endlink length to to be optimal for the hole selected (which affects the angles of the bar and link).

Anyone what to add to or edit my thoughts?
This is exactly what I did. I love the set up. Also added Konis and swift springs along with polyu bushings on the stock front bar. Finally I put on some TBperformance bracing. Other than the Konis nothing really cost that much. Have fun!
 
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