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What you say ST bar do you mean Steeda or ST? I am guessing Steeda?
ST = Suspension Techniques
Softest holes are at the ends of the bar, stiffest are the other direction. On Strano's bar, the softest setting is about the same as stock, middle setting is where you want it, and the stiff setting is like the ST stiff and Steeda soft.

A quick glance at the Whiteline bar tells me you'll want to buy collar locks if they're not included.
 

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Does anyone know which impact the ST suspensions front sway bar has or how well they work as a package?
In the first post, I could only find the RSB, but not the FSB from them.
 

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Lowering springs and end links 2015+

This should be part of this sticky somewhere.. the front endlinks on the 2015+ STs don't seem to have a flat area where you can use a 17mm wrench to hold them steady while you remove the 15mm nut on the other side.
Yup, found out the hard way when I installed the Mountune springs..

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Hey, would you mind sharing which specific bushings you used? And, did you use the stock brackets?
Thanks,
Joe
sorry it took so long to answer but I was looking for a part number, which unfortunately, I couldn’t find in my records. If it helps I believe I got them from Summit Racing.
 

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In case anyone is still looking, Stranoparts has replenished the stock of 3-position adjustable rear swaybars.
 

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The primary reason the stock rear sway bar on the FOST sucks. The bar is flat in the same spots as the bushing and rather than rotating under load, it binds adding more stiffness than a normal torsion bar of the same design would. ...

View attachment 374279

Harder to see the flat on the black bar but it is there.....both sides.

View attachment 374280

Bushing and mount are shaped to [not] allow any rotation.
I'm looking at the bar. I can clearly see the sides are flat. What I can't see is was the squeezed, making it oblong or ovalized at the flat, or if the flats are ground out with the adjacent curves the same 22 mm diameter as the rest of the bar. Anybody know?
 

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sorry it took so long to answer but I was looking for a part number, which unfortunately, I couldn’t find in my records. If it helps I believe I got them from Summit Racing.
Hey, would you mind sharing which specific bushings you used? And, did you use the stock brackets?
Thanks,
Joe
@jvaness_ST2 Panda Motorworks has them. 65$ for the set. A cheap mod that is well worth the money
 

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I'm looking at the bar. I can clearly see the sides are flat. What I can't see is was the squeezed, making it oblong or ovalized at the flat, or if the flats are ground out with the adjacent curves the same 22 mm diameter as the rest of the bar. Anybody know?
Just pick up a Strano rear bar. I hear he's making them again. Love mine. 22mm with three endlink attachment points for adjustability.


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For the gurus...any guesses as to if the JBR rear bar would be as good?

I finally got a chance to wring her out this week on highway 79 down in socal, and I don’t think I will do that again without some sway bar/endlink swapping beforehand!
 

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JBR bar is huge if your only replacing one. I would only get that rear bar if I was doing the front one, or running some wack a$$ spring rates i.e. soft rear/stiff front bias.
 
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I have had jbr 32 mm rear bar on 4 cars in past 10 yrs.It was only suspension mod on these cars.Gen 1 2 3 mazda3's and my current 16 fost.I had fs werks on for about 1yr.It got boring.Jbr rear bar never gets boring.I am still on soft setting for more than a year.The stock end link bushings split after 3 months.Got white lines 6mo. ago.They have been noisy on bumpy roads.Jbr end links should arrive tomorrow.
 

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600 lbs front and 700 lbs rear springs aren't boring either especially from a handling aspect and it rotates plenty fine with the strano bar that I just threw back on after running the suspension techniques, and the steeda bar prior to that.

Not knocking JBR as they make great parts, but in my opinion from a performance standpoint their rear bar is way too big to just substitute alone. Is it better than stock, yes for sure, but that big of a bar can still bite you in the butt if your not careful especially under transitions where you may have to lift off the throttle (ask me how I know).
 

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As long as u can steer the rear it's all good to me.It is alarming at first but u learn to enjoy it.Summer tires 28 psi makes it more better.
 

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As long as u can steer the rear it's all good to me.It is alarming at first but u learn to enjoy it.Summer tires 28 psi makes it more better.
Better to steer the rear with any bar other than stock that's for sure
 

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For sure.I can see the jbr on rear alone not being the best for max attack driving.But it makes the car very fun for a daily driver.By the way I totaled my 14 mazda3.Spun backwards hit concrete wall drivers side 60mph showing off on highway.Bought new died 72k miles.Did not get hurt air bags deployed.
 

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Strano wasn’t making the rear bar when I replaced mine but it was Sam who recommended the Whiteline I put on. It was then that I also replaced the front sway bar bushings with polyurethane ones. That setup replaced the front and rear JBR bars. As has been said, they are well made but I prefer my current setup.
 

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For clarification, I returned the stock front swaybar to the setup with the Whiteline rear
 
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I can see the jbr on rear alone not being the best for max attack driving.But it makes the car very fun for a daily driver.By the way I totaled my 14 mazda3.Spun backwards hit concrete wall drivers side 60mph showing off on highway.Bought new died 72k miles.Did not get hurt air bags deployed.
Hitting a wall at 60 mph on a highway is not a great advertisement for your suspension tuning philosophy.
 
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