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There are autocrosses near you this weekend... just sayin'
Ha... if I didn't have eight kids, a wife having birthday, and had time to prep it for the event I'd go. We have a racetrack within walking distance from my house.

I'd like to do a driving course though. Wish I could get into the Ford one but I bought my car used.
 

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Ordered BIlsteinB14's, the Steeda Adjustable rear sway bar, and the whiteline adjustable rear end links. Will hopefully install this weekend coming up using corner scales.
 

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I'm looking at installing the Whiteline rear sway bar and endlinks, but have a question regarding the endlinks.

Could someone please explain to me what the pre-load adjustment is? Pre-load of what? And what part is the "turn buckle"?


Cheers!
The general idea is to have the end link in a "neutral" (i.e. unstressed) condition when the car is sitting on the ground normally. You would turn the "turnbuckle" part to adjust this after installation, so that the actual roll bar is at the optimum resting point and not transmitting any force across the car. This would mean that, when car loads up into a corner in either direction, the behavior of the roll bar torsion as it resists body roll would be identical. With a standard end link, there is of course no adjustment possible, so any residual torque across the roll bar (due to overall body and suspension component tolerances etc) cannot be adjusted out.
I assume there are other more advanced end link adjustments that might be applicable to oval circuit racing, autocrossing etc. that apply, but for normal road use this should apply.
 

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At stock height, you may not need the adjustable end links. If the car is lowered at all it will put preload on the swaybars and will cause the car to feel "shifty" with small inputs. Preload happens when the links are pushing or pulling on the swaybar when the suspension is sitting level. On the whitelines the "turnbuckle" is the gold part which looks like a lugnut and it is turned one way or the other to shorten or lengthen the link overall. Getting the sway bar to a neutral spot without preload will allow the suspension on each side to move a bit more independently for small bumps or shifts of weight.
 

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Just had the bolt on my Massive endlinks snap on me tonight as I pulled into a restaraunt with an uneven driveway? Is anybody able to tell me what spec this bolt is? I think it's an M10-1.0 fully threaded hex bolt but cannot find one for purchase anywhere, checked at home depot and Lowe's etc today and couldn't find one that matched so I'm guessing I have something wrong. Hoping somebody who has had this happen to them can point me in the right direction. Thanks
 

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Just had the bolt on my Massive endlinks snap on me tonight as I pulled into a restaraunt with an uneven driveway? Is anybody able to tell me what spec this bolt is? I think it's an M10-1.0 fully threaded hex bolt but cannot find one for purchase anywhere, checked at home depot and Lowe's etc today and couldn't find one that matched so I'm guessing I have something wrong. Hoping somebody who has had this happen to them can point me in the right direction. Thanks
Right direction would be to buy a different set of endlinks, unfortunately. The "bushing sandwich" design is bad and will fail in the same way whether the end link is OE or aftermarket. TB Performance, JBR, Whiteline, and Moog all have superior designs.
 

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Yeah that's the conclusion I ended up coming to lol. Swapped back to the stock ones for now until I pick up a different aftermarket set.
We have these in stock and I think they're fairly priced. Domestic shipping is included in the price.

 

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Just had the bolt on my Massive endlinks snap on me tonight as I pulled into a restaraunt with an uneven driveway? Is anybody able to tell me what spec this bolt is? I think it's an M10-1.0 fully threaded hex bolt but cannot find one for purchase anywhere, checked at home depot and Lowe's etc today and couldn't find one that matched so I'm guessing I have something wrong. Hoping somebody who has had this happen to them can point me in the right direction. Thanks
You need to go to a specialty screw place. We have a tacoma screw in our area, its a chain. Then there is mcmastercarr too which is online. Check google maps for screw shops
 

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For stock height what rear sway bar and end links would you guys suggest?

Car is used for road courses and daily driver, and stock suspension.
In the hours of research I did prior to deciding on a sway bar setup, it seemed the consensus was the Strano RSB was the best on our cars.

Unfortunately, Sam Strano stopped making his RSB for our cars. Credible folks on this forum indicated Strano was recommending the Whiteline RSB to folks that wanted his. I’ve heard he may again be making rear sway bars for our cars??

Reviews and feedback have been very positive on the Whiteline RSB so I chose to go in that direction. I’ll get around to picking up the Whiteline rear endlinks in the next few months along with their front sway bar and endlinks.

Although I may never seriously track it, my plans are to build a track car that I may also decide to DD at some point.
 

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I'd like to encourage everyone to take a look at our sway bars and end links.

 

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Actually Sam is selling the FoST RSB again....

Very nice thanks for that, didn't know they r selling it again.

So what's so good about it? Car will handle very well? Coz I don't race and compete, I just do occasional track days and to have some fun!

Site says " -compatible with stock and most endlinks* " But if I track the car the stock endlinks will break fast right? So I guess just replace both now, and site says Steeda and Hotchkis will work fine, how about TB performance endlinks?

(Stock height and suspension)
 

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It eliminates the flat spots inherent in the stock sway bar which causes bind and an unpredictable rear end. It also adds adjustability which the stock one doesn't have.

Use of adjustable end links is needed if you want to take advantage of the 3 different stiffness settings on the sway bar.
 

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Very nice thanks for that, didn't know they r selling it again.

So what's so good about it? Car will handle very well? Coz I don't race and compete, I just do occasional track days and to have some fun!

Site says " -compatible with stock and most endlinks* " But if I track the car the stock endlinks will break fast right? So I guess just replace both now, and site says Steeda and Hotchkis will work fine, how about TB performance endlinks?

(Stock height and suspension)
Call Sam Strano. Call JBR. I know Sam and he'll be glad to give you a few minutes of honest advice (just keep it to a few minutes since there's only two staff and Sam's one of 'em!). I don't know JBR, but I believe they will be equally forthright and helpful.
 

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I think I will get steeda RSB and use stock end links for now. So if end links need replacement later, it will make noises during turning? But nothing dangerous or? I mean daily normal driving and not driving it hard. (If it STARTS to make noises during track day sessions, is it ok to keep going or I need to stop right away?)
 

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Any time your car makes new noises, you'll want to stop and check it out. Doesn't really matter whether it's a track day or not.

Before you make a final decision on the swaybar, have you looked at the chart in the first post of this thread? I ask this because the soft setting for the ST bar is about as stiff as you'll want if you haven't changed springs or aren't adding a front swaybar. The Cobb bar on soft is as stiff as the ST or Strano bars are on hard.
 

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Before you make a final decision on the swaybar, have you looked at the chart in the first post of this thread? I ask this because the soft setting for the ST bar is about as stiff as you'll want if you haven't changed springs or aren't adding a front swaybar. The Cobb bar on soft is as stiff as the ST or Strano bars are on hard.
Thanks a lot that's a very important info for me!

What you say ST bar do you mean Steeda or ST? I am guessing Steeda?

Yeah I am all stock for suspension, stock height too. Not going to add suspension parts except RSB and end links later. Hmm it looks like they are all very stiff except Eibach and ST, how about Stranos what's the stiffness on the 3 settings. And whiteline RSB stiffness isn't on first page either.

Stiffest setting is the highest holes ?
 
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