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Thanks, fellas.. report back next week

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I impressed with all this information and detailed analysis. I was able to confirm that Ford used the same Front sway bar (P/N: CV6Z-5482-B) for the focus ST from MY13 thru MY18 and the Rear sway bar (P/N: BV6Z-5A772-C) for the ST from MY14 thru MY18. But I have to ask how did you calculate the stiffness difference? My Example: 160/285=0.56140*100%=56.140%. I have been trying to figure out where this data came from, because I have been thru a few sites and the best I can gather is outside diameter and solid vs hollow. I think the Eibach is the best buy for both the color options and availability. But again I am impressed and thanks for the tons of information. :crazy:
 

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Want to try out steeda RSB but is it true that you should change out the front bar too? Any disadvantage if I just change the RSB only for HPDE?

This is my DD will the ride be harsher or any different ?

I will be getting a used steeda RSB, what should I check? check if bushing are ok? if the bar is bent or anything? Used should be ok right. And I won't have grease that came with steeda when new, sil glyde, white lithium grease are those ok.

And stock endlinks will wear out faster after I put in steeda RSB is that right, will need to change those eventually? thanks for your help

(car is pretty much all stock, wanna try out the steeda RSB for HPDE)
 

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Steeda rear bar on a daily driver is fun. Sway bars generally do not make the ride harsher. I've had one on my ST for five years now. It allows one to easily induce controlled oversteer with the throttle. When used alone, without replacing the front bar, it is probably not the best choice for serious high performance driving. Moog endlinks are an inexpensive, robust alternative for the stock endlinks. Prothane sells the appropriate grease to use on the bushings.
 

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Steeda rear bar on a daily driver is fun. Sway bars generally do not make the ride harsher. I've had one on my ST for five years now. It allows one to easily induce controlled oversteer with the throttle. When used alone, without replacing the front bar, it is probably not the best choice for serious high performance driving. Moog endlinks are an inexpensive, robust alternative for the stock endlinks. Prothane sells the appropriate grease to use on the bushings.
Thanks a lot man, I am new to the suspension/handling world, have never done any suspension mod before. Sounds like this is a really fun mod! "easily induce controlled oversteer"! Drift the car kinda?! that's awesome I really need to get it. This guy is selling his used one for 95 bucks.

What front bar do you suggest. Also steeda I guess? I read a few RSB threads and they just only did the RSB and didn't mention anything about the front, but this thread mentioned it and this one seems to be the go to one for RSB!

Endlinks I think I will wait till stock ones go bad and start making noise then replace them with Moog. Thanks again sir.
 

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hello,
anyone who got the massive speed front endlinks was there resistance on the joints like the factory links have? mine seen to move fairly easy? either way got them installed and no noises and the frontend feels good :confused:
 

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This look right? Steeda RSB with their rear links..
 

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To kind of complete the circle, I took a one hour ride to Stranoparts and discovered Sam no longer sells his own bar. He instead recommended a Whiteline rear bar and Whiteline endlinks. Spent about 40 mins. talking cars and suspension. I definitely knew more when I left than when I went in.
I took his advice and bought the bar / end links. So the correct install is with the rear suspension under load (on ramps) and the sway bar parallel to the ground?
 

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Stock bar & end links on the table with Whiteline bar & end links.

374276


My stock end links have 10,000 miles on them. The one on the passenger side was already bent. The other was slightly tweaked but it didn't show up in the picture.

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The ends... Whiteline has two positions but both bars line up in almost exactly the same spot on the car. I'm using the softest position on the Whiteline bar which is 24mm diameter vs 22mm of the stock bar. I think that due to the design of the stock bar, the Whiteline might actually be softer when under load due to the binding, and the length of the bar. The Whiteline mounting hole attachment is slightly longer and I suspect, that the leverage of the mounting hole being further down the bar that it effectively makes it softer due to the leverage of the mounting location. You would have to build some sort of jig where you could measure the force as you rotate both to plot the curve. That would tell the real story. I'm just making wild ass guesses about the stiffness so take it with a grain of salt.

374282
 

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The primary reason the stock rear sway bar on the FOST sucks. The bar is flat in the same spots as the bushing and rather than rotating under load, it binds adding more stiffness than a normal torsion bar of the same design would. It seems like a really goofy design and the only reason I can think they might have chosen this is to minimize noise from the bushing? You got me.. there is no good reason to have the bar binding at the two bushings. You want a sway bar that progressively increases in stiffness as it is under more load and you want that force to load, and probably more importantly unload, in a linear predictable manner. If you ever feel like the ass end of your ST is floating and ready to snap around on you... . this and the end links is why.

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Harder to see the flat on the black bar but it is there.....both sides.

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Bushing and mount are shaped to now allow any rotation.

374281
 

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Installed on the car. The yellow brackets are what Whiteline uses on the bar to prevent it from shifting in the bushings side to side. They said to leave 3-4 mm between the bushing and the clamp. Supposedly they use these rather than a welded ridge because welding a ridge to the bar changes the torsional integrity of the bar, making it less linear. I have no idea how much of a difference this makes.

The bushings are PTFE impregnated. They instruct you to use NO lubrication on the bushings. During the test drive I had no untoward noises or behavior.

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End Links installed. I have it adjusted to the shortest length. The rear tires are on ramps during install and the bar is close to parallel to the ground.

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Driving impressions.... you don't really notice any difference until you are hard into corners. I have a 10-mile two lane route with a bunch of corners as my trial course. The OEM bar wasn't a problem until you really pushed it. At sane speeds the bad behaviors are not evident. I'd get a little wag on some corners where I just didn't feel a ton of confidence on how the car was going to behave. I've not been able to repeat that behavior with the new bar (I'll keep trying). No real additional oversteer behavior is experienced, even though this is technically a stiffer bar. There might be less body lean... cornering seems neutral unless I do something to induce under/oversteer. In long on-ramp like cornering if you are accelerating you get very neutral behavior. Perfectly inspiring and you approach the limits of the tires with good balance between front/rear. So far, it has improved the predictability of how the car behaves, exactly what I bought it for.
 

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Very Nice series of posts. I went one small step further and put stiffer bushings on the front bar to get the most out of it. I also feel much better about the handling with that setup as opposed to stock. The stock bar binding up is pretty unsettling. Good work @kevperro
 

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Sorry, a little edit problem
 

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Anyway... the bushings I put on the front bar were polyurethane from energy suspension.
 

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I just fixed the two problems... Stock rear bar, these same Whiteline rear links (KLC195), and Powerflex USA 22mm rear bar bushings (PFR19-1204-22).
 

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Stock bar & end links on the table with Whiteline bar & end links.


My stock end links have 10,000 miles on them. The one on the passenger side was already bent. The other was slightly tweaked but it didn't show up in the picture.



The ends... Whiteline has two positions but both bars line up in almost exactly the same spot on the car. I'm using the softest position on the Whiteline bar which is 24mm diameter vs 22mm of the stock bar. I think that due to the design of the stock bar, the Whiteline might actually be softer when under load due to the binding, and the length of the bar. The Whiteline mounting hole attachment is slightly longer and I suspect, that the leverage of the mounting hole being further down the bar that it effectively makes it softer due to the leverage of the mounting location. You would have to build some sort of jig where you could measure the force as you rotate both to plot the curve. That would tell the real story. I'm just making wild ass guesses about the stiffness so take it with a grain of salt.

This really explains a lot.
I had a 2013 and it was really noticeable on long sweeps as the load transfer climbs. I kept thinking it was the crappy F1 tires... but it wouldn't let go like you would expect, it just kept getting more pronounced through the corner making you wonder when it was gonna break loose. I never really hit short corners that hard on the street, so I can't attest to how that behaves.
I sold the car (because I wanted a new one, not because of the handling quirk) and got a new 18' model and... SAME damn thing.
This goes on my list of after warranty minor upgrades. I'm not a tuner and I don't track my car at all, but i really don't like the way that it behaves. Like was stated, "unsettling" is not a good feeling when you see an awesome turn coming and are feeling a little froggy
Nice post, thanks for the visuals
 

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This really explains a lot.
I had a 2013 and it was really noticeable on long sweeps as the load transfer climbs. I kept thinking it was the crappy F1 tires... but it wouldn't let go like you would expect, it just kept getting more pronounced through the corner making you wonder when it was gonna break loose. I never really hit short corners that hard on the street, so I can't attest to how that behaves.
I sold the car (because I wanted a new one, not because of the handling quirk) and got a new 18' model and... SAME damn thing.
This goes on my list of after warranty minor upgrades. I'm not a tuner and I don't track my car at all, but i really don't like the way that it behaves. Like was stated, "unsettling" is not a good feeling when you see an awesome turn coming and are feeling a little froggy
Nice post, thanks for the visuals
Hey... not a problem. Glad that I could contribute.

I've had it on for almost two weeks now and I've thrown it into corners whenever given the opportunity. I have yet to feel that "unsettled ass-end" feeling again. The upgrade is rather unspectacular because the car just behaves as you would like it to in a corner. I'd call it neutral... I need to take it somewhere that I can push it to the limits of traction and see how it behaves.

On the stock F1s still.
 
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