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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
There are multiple factors at play with the failures of this valve. Increased ethanol content, dirt & debris, electrical issues with the PCM and associated wiring.

The short of it is there's an issue that will not be resolved by the manufacturer. I'm still testing the inline filter and then my own valve to determine the best course of action.

J
 

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OP,
Thanks for your efforts on this. I will be following your advice and replacing the valve in a manner that allows for future service.
I've never had my car stall, nor die while refueling, or any hard start issues, or any EVAP DTC.

What I do have is rather odd.

Under light load and no boost, at 4200-5000 rpm, the engine will misfire on cylinder 1, and continue to run on 3 cylinders until the engine RPM drops to near idle. It will clear up after 30 seconds or so.
This is terrible because I use the car for auto-x and HDPE, and will be selling it shortly if I cannot get this resolved. Mid-corner maintenance throttle is impossible, and the only workaround is to be a gear higher than I need.

I shut it off immediately last time this happened and pulled plugs and the intake manifold.
#1 plug was drenched in fuel, to the point that it would not create spark. Which explains a lot.
The #1 runner in the intake manifold was clean, all others had an amount of oil residue.
#1 valves were clean, all others had carbon buildup.

I replaced the PCV, and removed my catch can thinking that would help.

Reading your thread just now points me in a new direction. Especially because the outlet for the purge valve is closest to the #1 runner.

I bet this has been hung open for 55k miles, killing my fuel mileage, and wearing on my nerves.

Ford's "Recall" did jack, and they didn't change the valve.

-Danny
 

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@Rohand901 this could very well be the case. Your intake vacuum is highest when closing throttle in high rpms, and you are having fuel slosh in the manner you drive in autoX. So you may be pulling raw gasoline up the line. The fact that the valves are cleaned and the plug was gas soaked may be a direct indicator. Hope this fixes it!
 

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@KEX the p0087 and stalling is a separate issue altogether, has nothing to do with the purge valve.
Thanks that my conclusion as well since last couple of fills, the gauge is accurate according to the amount need to fill every time, only the DTE is way off.

Now I need to focus on potential pump or sensor issues. But they always seems work well when filled up, can hold wot all the time based on the logs.
 

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Maybe I just need to do as this Thread suggests. Nothing has happened but maybe before it happens I should but the parts and just fix it.
 

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Maybe I just need to do as this Thread suggests. Nothing has happened but maybe before it happens I should but the parts and just fix it.
If you have more than 50,000 miles I would definately do it as preventative maintanence; then every 25,000 for good measure. Unless the new one fails before that...
 
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If you have more than 50,000 miles I would definately do it as preventative maintanence; then every 25,000 for good measure. Unless the new one fails before that...
I am at 100k KM's so just over 60K Miles.
No issues thus far. I am thinking about just buying the entire assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
Regardless how you decided to go about the repair it's important to have something on hand to prevent damage.
 
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Glad I found this. Took my "new" (2014 with 33k miles) to dealer for the recall. They flashed the PCM and said there's no issues without any codes. Gonna pick up the whole assembly and swap it because I do not want to deal with this BS down the road (Mazda 3s had fun evap issues that Ford/Mazda never addressed and it's what lead me to dump the thing).
 

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Super thankful for this write up and thread, I read through it all last night and have a few questions.

Originally I was experiencing a small inconsistency in idle and an increase in pops/gurgles, but no codes and no issues otherwise so I didn't put thought into a "serious" issue. Then I started to have the fuel refill issue with the car not starting (2017 Focus ST - AF Dynamic Intake and Flowmaster Exhaust). I got a CEL for code U300E-13. Seems like its code for a purge valve but not specific to which one.. I cleared the code and it has not come back, yet I still am experiencing issues but still no CEL?

I've acknowledged the problem, found this magical thread, and went looking for the RS EVAP Line but it seems they're now $50, and the ST is $77 @ Amazon.

Is the reason for purchasing the RS EVAP Line the safety of the clips and Ford Purge Valve,
Or would one still be able to do the FUFF with using the "bad" stock ST EVAP Line and a new Purge Valve?

Thanks in advanced!
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
You can still find the valve itself for less than $20 US. You would only need the valve and other items listed in the post to perform the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
BV6Z-9D289-B has gone up to $35.00.

I have an update to this entire post coming shortly. But I will if absolutely necessary please just swap the full ST assembly out.

Still cheaper than a fuel tank.

J
 

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BV6Z-9D289-B has gone up to $35.00.

I have an update to this entire post coming shortly. But I will if absolutely necessary please just swap the full ST assembly out.

Still cheaper than a fuel tank.

J
I ordered the full ST assembly as a precaution if needed, as-well as buying the new valve. Where were you able to see BV6Z-9D289-B for $35?

I'm confused by your last reply, Is it not advisable to use the stock assembly with a new valve for the FUFF?
My thought was with the current assembly, a new valve, and the items listed (fuel clamps, tubing, etc.) it would work?
I apologize for my confusion it's been a long week lol

With the issues I've had would you recommend checking/changing anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
I ordered the full ST assembly as a precaution if needed, as-well as buying the new valve. Where were you able to see BV6Z-9D289-B for $35?

I'm confused by your last reply, Is it not advisable to use the stock assembly with a new valve for the FUFF?
My thought was with the current assembly, a new valve, and the items listed (fuel clamps, tubing, etc.) it would work?
I apologize for my confusion it's been a long week lol

With the issues I've had would you recommend checking/changing anything else?
I was only saying that should you find yourself unable to get a new valve separately that you not ignore the issue.

A new valve along the clamps, hoses, etc. will work just fine.

I just did a search and found several in that price range, however that didn't take taxes or shipping into consideration. Remember that in most cases on Amazon shipping is baked into the cost... Prime really isn't all that it's cracked up to be.

Just keep up on you regular maintenance items.

J
 
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I was only saying that should you find yourself unable to get a new valve separately that you not ignore the issue.

A new valve along the clamps, hoses, etc. will work just fine.

I just did a search and found several in that price range, however that didn't take taxes or shipping into consideration. Remember that in most cases on Amazon shipping is baked into the cost... Prime really isn't all that it's cracked up to be.

Just keep up on you regular maintenance items.

J
Thanks so much man! I'll update once done.
 

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Thanks so much man! I'll update once done.
As I sit here waiting for my delayed USPS to arrive....

I was doing more reading and it seems like checking the canister is a must at this point...
Is it as simple as removing the 3 bolts and two hoses?
Am I just checking to see if any liquid fuel drains out or what am I looking for?
 

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As I sit here waiting for my delayed USPS to arrive....

I was doing more reading and it seems like checking the canister is a must at this point...
Is it as simple as removing the 3 bolts and two hoses?
Am I just checking to see if any liquid fuel drains out or what am I looking for?
Do you mean the charcoal canister? Or the valve itself.
 

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2018 Focus ST Magnetic Metallic
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It's time to do the thing.
394795
 

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It's time to do the thing. View attachment 394795
Well, installed and working fine. No codes and reset trip, mpg, KAM, ECU. Hopefully this takes care of my bad gas mileage. Was getting 17mpg around town without ever getting into boost. Along with my updated grounding connections, I'm hoping I'll get 20mpg if I'm nice to it.
 
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