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Yes, very likely or the canister purge valve.
Also check the fuel tank for deformation.
Extending my earlier question: if the splice was done incorrectly and it's not perfectly sealed at the fuel injection hose clamps, would we expect a P0456 code specifically? Or since the new valve would be in place and (presumably) functioning, would a hose leak go undetected by the PCM?

Prior to doing this fix, I was encountering a persistent P144C code. I never saw P0456
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Some experience a DTC, while others may only experience related symptoms of a failed valve.
The P144C is a set code that relates to the purge valve itself and the P0456 indicates a small leak in the evap system.
 

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I put an aftermarket unit in, did my plugs while I was under there, wiped the codes, and all seems good! Not really an easy install due to location, but no problems besides dropping a socket, lol. It's gone forever now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
That's why I paint all my 10mm sockets florescent green...
 
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@SSgtjrobertson

Thanks so much for this!

Just completed the install on this, I was overdue.

I was experiencing low idle and the car wanted to stall after a fill up so I decided it was time to do this!

I thought the worst part was boiling the nylon lines to get the barb fittings inside. Maybe I'm just a girly man...but I didn't have any mil-spec operator gloves to help me out on that part. 🤣

I had some trouble getting the fuel line clamps to seat on the rubber hose. maybe the o.d. of the stuff I got was crazy big, or I ordered the wrong ones. Luckily I had a bunch of larger diameter clamps laying around in the garage.

One last rant. If any of you work for USPS sorry.
But my God how [email protected]#$%^& inept can they be?
I ordered that part on April 20th and it shipped the 21st. From south Carolina to Ohio it took 9 or 10 working days? Come on man...I could have walked to south Carolina by that time.
Package got lost twice on the way! Lol this seems to be the new normal too.
 

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Well I'm back to the drawing board. My recent persistent P144C (EVAP System Purge Flow Performance During Boost) code returned this morning, even with the new purge valve installed. Any advice, @SSgtjrobertson ?

For what it's worth, the car's occasional stumble at idle persisted even after the purge valve change. This is likely a placebo effect on my part; I think the car has always been like this and I was just paying extra attention to how she idles after installing the new valve. Could be completely unrelated and a matter of needing to change the plugs or something else. But I am stumped about the P144C code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
@Melchior

So it sounds like the check valve that prevents boost pressure from entering the evap system.

391274


Unfortunately P144C is an extremely generic code. The purge valve itself is extremely weak and will be unable to prevent positive pressure from entering the system.

391275


I will probably need to look at the factory check valve as another weak point.

J
 

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@Melchior

So it sounds like the check valve that prevents boost pressure from entering the evap system.
Interesting. I see that's the valve near the throttle body end of the whole assembly. Is this why the ST assembly (BV6Z-9D289-E) is much more expensive than the RS assembly, since it includes this check valve?

What do you suggest I do for replacement? Bite the bullet and just buy a whole BV6Z-9D289-E assembly (and save the new valve for the next purge valve replacement)? Or is there a slick way of replacing just the check valve cheaply in a manner similar to your purge valve trick?
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Interesting. I see that's the valve near the throttle body end of the whole assembly. Is this why the ST assembly (BV6Z-9D289-E) is much more expensive than the RS assembly, since it includes this check valve?

What do you suggest I do for replacement? Bite the bullet and just buy a whole BV6Z-9D289-E assembly (and save the new valve for the next purge valve replacement)? Or is there a slick way of replacing just the check valve cheaply in a manner similar to your purge valve trick?
I make no claims to the quality or effectiveness of this part but I just ordered on for testing.

 

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@SSgtjrobertson
A month ago car stalled halfway getting gas/stuttered starting, fine ever since(turn off car when gassing).

Trying to get my car ready to autox, don't want to drive hours away, and have stalling issues.

Not sure if this is deformed, looks at least slightly warped?? Do the purge valve fix?? Any your good/your f'd appreciated
391496

391497
 

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Tank looks fine to me. It's such a cheap replacement, I'd do it anyway if you're having symptoms just for peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
I would suggest replacing the valve. Long trip offer a higher rate of potential failure due to the extended time under consistent vacuum. Around town or shorted trips aren't as bad.

I just replaced the valve and purchased 3 spares.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
The RS purge valve assembly is going to be the best for the money.
J
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
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