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The Purge (Valve): FUFF (f@#% you ford fix) parts 1, 2, & 3

122K views 328 replies 72 participants last post by  GuitarST 
#1 · (Edited)
387916


*Update 04/28/21 - P0456 DTC and collapsed fuel tank example w/temporary emergency fix on post #72
*Update 05/22 - FUFF 2.5
Part 1:

So I was this contemplating just how I was going to approach this particular topic. Do my normal overly technical explanation? Start off with a meaningful antidote or compelling story to help the reader relate to the topic at hand? No, because of the amount of headaches that this part inflict's on our community this statement will mostly be accepted by those that read it.


**** Ford, their engineers, accountants and for the EPA's constantly moving the "clean air" goal post whenever the hell they feel like it.

Okay so while I work through my anger issues let's talk about the bane of a ST owners existence. The EVAP purge valve sits just next to the engine near the vacuum and high pressure fuel pump. It's job is to release excessive fuel vapors that naturally build in the fuel tank. When it works correctly that is. When it's doesn't it induces rough idle, stalling, or deformed fuel tanks.

The Focus ST models here in the USDM use assembly part number BV6Z-9D289-E. This part normally retails for roughly $65 USD before tax and shipping. The one I recently ordered cost $73 USD shipped from my local Ford dealer. Other models of Ford focus, including the AWD RS use this valve that can be found for less than a third of the ST assembly but will not fit the ST's configuration.

This valve itself is very simple in function and extremely cheap in it manufacturing quality. A quick disconnect fitting just above the throttle body on the passenger side of the intake manifold runs up and through a one way check valve that prevents a positive pressure (boost) from damaging the evaporator system. The nylon fuel hose then runs across the intake manifold and turns back towards the rear of the engine on the drivers side terminating at what would be concerned the purge valves output, or the portion of the valve that see vacuum.

The inlet of the valve has a similar, yet shorter section of nylon fuel line and quick disconnect fitting that attaches to the metal line leading back to the fuel vapor canister.

The theory therfore should be that vacuum pressure alone should be able to keep this valve closed unless acted upon by an outside force (in this case the PCM commanding the valve open via a 12 VDC electromechanical solenoid.) However the issues begin to arise whenever this valve allows manifold vacuum to escape past the sealing surface of the valve pulling a vacuum at idle and cruise. This can result in rough idle, strange rich/lean AFR, stalling randomly or immediately after refueling, P03XX codes (random cylinder misfires) and worst-case scenario it can cause the deformation of the fuel tank.

Safety recall 18S32 (*see attached PDF) covers the fuel tank deformation but little more than slap a bandaid on a sucking chest wound.
Also in Ford's infinite wisdom their "fix" includes a PCM calibration that will update the PCM to a newer model year doing two things 1. It eliminates the .040" evap leak test, leaving only the .020" test making the issue more likely to occur and 2. Leaving those of us who use aftermarket tuners such as the Cobb Accessport unable to reinstall our tune without assistance from the either Cobb or the individual tuner.

And best of all the this "fix" did zero to address the problem so you will continue to experience the failure. But hey, Ford did their part right?

So this leaves our community to look after it's own. Again.

Let's start with location and removal of the offending items from the vehicle. This can be accomplished with a few basic tools in a short time.

Start by loosening the hose clamps from the air box and upper intake pipe. You can use either the appropriate hex socket or slot-head (flathead) screwdriver.

387927


Next remove the single 8mm bolt holding the upper intake pipe to the engine. The upper intake and flex section to the airbox can now be removed.

Locate the purge valve and electrical connector between the engine and battery box.

387921

Carefully lift the locking tab from the connector from the valve body and lift upwards.
Inspect the connector pins, wires, & moisture seal for damage. Clean or replace accordingly.

387922

The valve is supported by a rubber isolator and steel bracket. The bracket is attached directly below the HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) by two (2) 13mm nuts. Using either a deep well socket or standard socket and short extension. I found it was easier to break both of them loose and remove them by hand to prevent dropping them. I really didn't want to pull the lower pan.

387923

Starting at the rear of the engine and using a small pick or screw driver carefully pry the quick disconnect locking tab away from the QD connector. Again pry carefully as this lock can be easily broken, especially when the temperature is below 50 degrees fahrenheit.

387925


Once the lock has been disengaged press the QD button and lift away from the steel line. You may need to wiggle the connector slightly in order to allow its release.

Detached the evap tube using a slot-head screwdriver or pry tool by carefully lifting the 3 supports from the intake manifold.

387928

Next is the most difficult portion of this removal in my opinion due to the tight space between the QD and manifold. The lock is identical to the previous connector and will need to be pried away to allow the connector to be removed. Take your time! A new intake manifold is $68 at the time of this write up.
387929

That's it. The EVAP purge valve assembly is now easily removed from the engine. But what to with it is the real question. Yes you could simply replace the entire thing for a full price unit but what's the fun of that?

Continued in part 2
 

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#4 · (Edited)
LoL I wasn't even finished. Wait until part 3 for all the nerdy goodness!

Using this post to sneak in the TBS regarding the fuel tank deformation. LOL!
Font Parallel Screenshot Motor vehicle Document

Font Parallel Paper Document Rectangle

Material property Font Parallel Number Document
 
#3 · (Edited)
Part 2:

How to rebuild your own EVAP purge valve assembly for a fraction of the price and make future repairs a thousand times easier, or the shorter name: The FU Ford EVAP Fix!!!

*Disclaimer: As with any write up, and I really shouldn't need to say this but I am not responsible for anything that may result from the modifications listed below. You have been warned.

The real issue here is the actual Bosch evaporator valve itself and not rest of the assembly. The valve is heat pressed between the two sections of nylon fuel line and is sold only as an entire assembly. Ford considers this assembly non-serviceable by the end user.

ST Assembly: BV6Z-9D289-E
387943


This assembly as of 02/2021 is $65.00 USD list and should be readily available from any local or online authorized Ford parts dealers.

The valve assembly for the RS however is only $20 USD but will not fit the ST engine configuration.

RS Assembly: BV6Z-9D289-B
387944


Both use the Bosch EVAP purge valve that is used on multiple different manufacturers emissions equipment.

Purge Valve: BV61-9G866-AA
387945


The Purge Valve can be found between $16 - $22 USD but I offer this warning. Buyer beware as there are several fakes on the market. Also the benefit of purchasing the RS unit is the should a QD lock be damaged you can use parts from the RS Assembly to repair your damaged connector. But that's just my opinion and what the hell do I know...

So the items needed for the fix can be purchased from just about any auto parts store. I did this to keep the availability as universal as possible and the cost down.
387931


I stopped off a the closest store to me, which just happened to be an Advanced Auto Parts and purchased the following items:
Qty 1 - foot 3/8" x 12" fuel hose #CQ24088 $1.99 USD
Qty 1 - (2 in pack) Dorman 3/8" (9.5mm) universal nylon fuel line unions #800-011 $7.49 USD
Qty 1 - (4 in pack) Ideal Tridon fuel injection clamps #52F1558 $3.49 USD
Qty 1 - Purge Valve of your choice

That's all you need as far as parts go. After tax here in Kentucky I was well under $40 USD and other than the purge valve itself have enough hose and can reuse the clamps several times over. So in the long run this repair becomes both cheaper and easier in the long run.

*Note I opted to use the fuel injection clamps over the traditional hose clamps due to the fact that they help to promote equal clamping force around the entire hose. This is important to prevent vacuum leaks later on. Another point is the even though the hose selected for this project is capable of dealing with the level of vacuum it will experience I still attempted to keep the runs as short as possible to limit potential issues.

Using the original valve as a measuring point decide where to cut the nylon tube away based on the union and amount of hose you feel comfortable with. I use a small hose cutter that makes for a nice clean cut but a sharp razor knife or heavy duty scissors will also work. I did not provide measurements in this write up due to the variety of configurations out there. Take your time and measure yo shiz!
387932



Optional Step: Next find a Ford Engineer and/or Accountant to wing the old valve at as hard as you can!

387933


Dawning the tactical gloves that you "forgot" to turn back in after leaving the SWAT Team get a pot of boiling water deep enough to submerge the end of the cut nylon fuel line in. The provided instructions call for 10 minutes to soak but mine took about 7 to get soft enough to push completely to the shoulder of the union using a pair of pliers. Leave to cool while working on the opposite line.

387934


Now that both unions are installed I the nylon fuel line measure and cut you desired length of rubber fuel line. Loosely installed the fuel injection clamps and press the length of hose over the open end of the barbed union. Cover the union shoulder with the hose to ensure a leak free fit. Press the other end of the hose over the appropriate end of the purge valve. Do not forget to install the rubber isolator and bracket over the valve before installing it. Now repeat the same thing for the other side of the valve and union.
387935


Do Not Tighten Up The Clamps until you have the assembly installed on the engine. This will help you to make the necessary adjustments and tweaks to the assembly for a proper fit.
387936

387937

Once the support bracket is locked down and everything is tight reconnect the valves electrical connector and reinstall the upper intake and flex section to the airbox.

You're finished. Now down the road should you need to change the valve the is no need to remove the entire assembly from the engine. Just replace the valve.

I will be adding more technical findings and answering questions in the follow up posts for those that are interested. This has been the result of 2 months and almost $300 in parts testing and researching so I really hope that it helps someone out.

Stay Safe and Stay Tuned!
J

*Updates below:

I had received a question regarding how remove the purge valve from the new RS assembly. Well it's very easy since you aren't worried about reusing the nylon hose. You can also use this method to remove the factory QD ends as well if you care to use them for a different project.

First carefully score the nylon tube where it meets the valve. I suggest a razor knife with a fresh blade. The goal here is to score and not attempt to cut fully through the tube. Next use a heat gun, propane, map torch, or lighter on and around the scored section of tube moving the heat source around often to distribute the heat.

They amount of time needed to soften the nylon may vary. Propane or MAP gas my only take a second. The heat gun or lighter may take several. I highly recommend performing this outside because if you accidentally burn the nylon it's going to stink up the area.

Wear safety protection and please don't burn your house down. If you scored the tube deep enough it will split naturally. If not you can help it along with the razor knife. The goal here is to free the valve (or fittings) without damaging them.

Take your time, it will just peel right out.

J
 
#48 ·
Part 2:

How to rebuild your own EVAP purge valve assembly for a fraction of the price and make future repairs a thousand times easier, or the shorter name: The FU Ford EVAP Fix!!!

*Disclaimer: As with any write up, and I really shouldn't need to say this but I am not responsible for anything that may result from the modifications listed below. You have been warned.

The real issue here is the actual Bosch evaporator valve itself and not rest of the assembly. The valve is heat pressed between the two sections of nylon fuel line and is sold only as an entire assembly. Ford considers this assembly non-serviceable by the end user.

ST Assembly: BV6Z-9D289-E
View attachment 387943

This assembly as of 02/2021 is $65.00 USD list and should be readily available from any local or online authorized Ford parts dealers.

The valve assembly for the RS however is only $20 USD but will not fit the ST engine configuration.

RS Assembly: BV6Z-9D289-B
View attachment 387944

Both use the Bosch EVAP purge valve that is used on multiple different manufacturers emissions equipment.

Purge Valve: BV61-9G866-AA
View attachment 387945

The Purge Valve can be found between $16 - $22 USD but I offer this warning. Buyer beware as there are several fakes on the market. Also the benefit of purchasing the RS unit is the should a QD lock be damaged you can use parts from the RS Assembly to repair your damaged connector. But that's just my opinion and what the hell do I know...

So the items needed for the fix can be purchased from just about any auto parts store. I did this to keep the availability as universal as possible and the cost down.
View attachment 387931

I stopped off a the closest store to me, which just happened to be an Advanced Auto Parts and purchased the following items:
Qty 1 - foot 3/8" x 12" fuel hose #CQ24088 $1.99 USD
Qty 1 - (2 in pack) Dorman 3/8" (9.5mm) universal nylon fuel line unions #800-011 $7.49 USD
Qty 1 - (4 in pack) Ideal Tridon fuel injection clamps #52F1558 $3.49 USD
Qty 1 - Purge Valve of your choice

That's all you need as far as parts go. After tax here in Kentucky I was well under $40 USD and other than the purge valve itself have enough hose and can reuse the clamps several times over. So in the long run this repair becomes both cheaper and easier in the long run.

*Note I opted to use the fuel injection clamps over the traditional hose clamps due to the fact that they help to promote equal clamping force around the entire hose. This is important to prevent vacuum leaks later on. Another point is the even though the hose selected for this project is capable of dealing with the level of vacuum it will experience I still attempted to keep the runs as short as possible to limit potential issues.

Using the original valve as a measuring point decide where to cut the nylon tube away based on the union and amount of hose you feel comfortable with. I use a small hose cutter that makes for a nice clean cut but a sharp razor knife or heavy duty scissors will also work. I did not provide measurements in this write up due to the variety of configurations out there. Take your time and measure yo shiz!
View attachment 387932


Optional Step: Next find a Ford Engineer and/or Accountant to wing the old valve at as hard as you can!

View attachment 387933

Dawning the tactical gloves that you "forgot" to turn back in after leaving the SWAT Team get a pot of boiling water deep enough to submerge the end of the cut nylon fuel line in. The provided instructions call for 10 minutes to soak but mine took about 7 to get soft enough to push completely to the shoulder of the union using a pair of pliers. Leave to cool while working on the opposite line.

View attachment 387934

Now that both unions are installed I the nylon fuel line measure and cut you desired length of rubber fuel line. Loosely installed the fuel injection clamps and press the length of hose over the open end of the barbed union. Cover the union shoulder with the hose to ensure a leak free fit. Press the other end of the hose over the appropriate end of the purge valve. Do not forget to install the rubber isolator and bracket over the valve before installing it. Now repeat the same thing for the other side of the valve and union.
View attachment 387935

Do Not Tighten Up The Clamps until you have the assembly installed on the engine. This will help you to make the necessary adjustments and tweaks to the assembly for a proper fit.
View attachment 387936
View attachment 387937
Once the support bracket is locked down and everything is tight reconnect the valves electrical connector and reinstall the upper intake and flex section to the airbox.

You're finished. Now down the road should you need to change the valve the is no need to remove the entire assembly from the engine. Just replace the valve.

I will be adding more technical findings and answering questions in the follow up posts for those that are interested. This has been the result of 2 months and almost $300 in parts testing and researching so I really hope that it helps someone out.

Stay Safe and Stay Tuned!
J

*Updates below:

I had received a question regarding how remove the purge valve from the new RS assembly. Well it's very easy since you aren't worried about reusing the nylon hose. You can also use this method to remove the factory QD ends as well if you care to use them for a different project.

First carefully score the nylon tube where it meets the valve. I suggest a razor knife with a fresh blade. The goal here is to score and not attempt to cut fully through the tube. Next use a heat gun, propane, map torch, or lighter on and around the scored section of tube moving the heat source around often to distribute the heat.

They amount of time needed to soften the nylon may vary. Propane or MAP gas my only take a second. The heat gun or lighter may take several. I highly recommend performing this outside because if you accidentally burn the nylon it's going to stink up the area.

Wear safety protection and please don't burn your house down. If you scored the tube deep enough it will split naturally. If not you can help it along with the razor knife. The goal here is to free the valve (or fittings) without damaging them.

Take your time, it will just peel right out.

J
But is it the purge valve ?
 
#7 ·
You're good LOL. Are there any questions about the post?
 
#10 ·
I think we should setup a gofundme/PayPal link for @SSgtjrobertson in case some of us want to contribute a few bucks to these efforts. Right now he's spending his own time and money to do this stuff for the community. @Duece McCracken , is that possible/allowed? He's really doing us all a huge favor and saving everyone at least $40-50 every time somebody fixes theirs.
 
#14 ·
387952

Yeah this is definitely a part you don't want to forget about for sure. For those that are unaware this is the check valve (one way valve) the prevents boost pressure from instantly destroying the valve and purge canister.
 
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#18 ·
Sweet, I have a full-cost replacement that I could do this to before swapping in. Once modded, to change the valve, would one just:

1. Unplug the electrical connector
2. Unscrew the bracket
3. Loosen the hose clamps
4. Wiggle the hoses off the valve barbs

Sound right?
You don't even need to remove the bracket. The valve will just pull out of the rubber isolator. Time = $ and my time should be spent with a glass of Bourbon 😏
 
#17 ·
Part 3: The aftermath

So this all started awhile back while reading post after post about strange behavior with both tuned and non-tuned STs. I ketp coming to the conclusion that the one thing that all members had in common was the purge valve assembly.

I was afraid that some were relying too much on Ford's "fix" and others just weren't in the position to drop $70+ after tax & shipping for a new part. Driving around with the failed valve could seriously damage someone's only means of transportation. This effects people's lives and I just didn't feel like the manufacturer was doing enough to respond to the problem. I've personally been in a professional position to decide if writing a citation could mean that someone would possibly lose their job or maybe not eat that week. Stuff like that is aways in the back of my mind.

So the mission rapidly became "What are the average conditions the valve fails?", "Why do they fail?", & "What is the most economical solution for the repair? Now I want you to understand that economical doesn't just mean financial, but also economy of motion. Less time under the hood equals more time on the road.

So I got to buying and testing as many as different samples as possible. I purchased a new assembly for the ST and RS from Ford. Two valves from the BAY and a ST assembly from an aftermarket vendor that is famous for selling low price OEM style parts. Then used my 2017 ST1 as the test mule because luckily enough when parts started arriving my valve started showing the signs of failure.

I did not get the purge valve TSB and have no intentions of doing so. However that is a personal opinion and not a suggestion.

Here's what I found:
387956

The factory ST assembly was equipped with a Bosch valve that was marked "Made in Mexico" as opposed to the one originally installed on my vehicle that was stamped "Made in Germany". Cost was $65 USD before tax & shipping

The RS assembly was also "Made in Mexico" and cost $20 USD. Picked up locally at dealers.

The two purchased from the bay were both marked "Made in Germany". However only one and ironically it was the cheaper of the two at $16 USD as the $21 USD unit was clearly "Made in China" based on materials used in construction and strange marking not used in the other Ford pieces.

The "OEM" style at $50 USD is straight up hot garbage. Don't even waste your money. Brand new it leaked worse than the original Ford unit with 40K miles on it. Hell even the Chinese knock off was better constructed mechanically, but not electrically.

The anatomy of a valve:
387957


So what actually fails in these things? Well here I'll show you. A thin metal disc with a extraordinarily small sealing surface is held flat against the valve body with a spring that looks like a should be in a ballpoint pen. When 12 VDC is applied to the coil by the PCM a magnetic field is created and the flat dice is pulled against the coil body.

387959


This allows a vacuum to be pulled on the canister purge line allowing fuel vapors to be pulled directly into the intake post throttle. While under normal conditions you would never know this was happening because it should only happen under very specific conditions have been met. When the valve fails this extra vaporized fuel can cause significant changes to the air fuel ratio. A 1% increase in raw vaporized fuel can swing a Wideband by 20% in extreme conditions.

Is summation, when misbehaving this valve suck both figuratively and literally.

If you look closely you can see the damage caused by contamination being drawn into the purge canister system that contributes to the valves premature failure.

387958




In the spring I plan on addressing the canister and lines next. But in my research I found that the RS has an additional vapor filter assembly that our ST's so not currently use. It also is soild as an assembly and not considered "user serviceable". Again I called BS and found that the RS Assembly used a $15 USD filter available just about anywhere automotive parts are sold.

387960

387961


So I did a bit more research and found the Earl's makes a fully serviceable filter for EFI systems that is equipped with a washable filter compatible with ethanol and is good down to 10 Micron. It's also smaller, lighter and the exact same price as the disposable filter Ford sells.
387962

387963


So the current plan is to install the filter first between the purge valve and steel vapor canister line. I will remove and disassemble it in the spring. Make note of dirt and debris captured. Then dissect the valve and inspect for damage. Once completed I will purge all the line clean and install the filter in the rear between the canister and steel vapor line. Drive over the summer and repeat the inspections.

In short if a $15 reusable filter will help people save money and protect their vehicles it's worth the effort to me to try.

Moving past mechanical failures let's look at electrical. It's pretty ****ing ridiculous how they constructed this valve internally. The coil itself is completely exposed to raw fuel vapors. In fact these vapors are actively pulled around the coil due to its axial design. Please don't tell me if for cooling effect of the coil because it's absolutely not. So those that tune for a higher ethanol content are possible hasting theirs closer to the grave faster.
387964


Ethanol is extremely corrosive and hydrophilic (that means it loves water) but you know what hates water? Electronics, and my 5 year old daughter...

So in summation this valve, regardless of origin is poorly designed, cheaply manufactured by the lowest bidder and quite possibly rigged to fail.

So trust me when I say this ain't over, because just you wait until I hit phase 4 testing at in the fall of this year.
387965


Stay Safe everyone!

J
 
#278 ·
Part 3: The aftermath

So this all started awhile back while reading post after post about strange behavior with both tuned and non-tuned STs. I ketp coming to the conclusion that the one thing that all members had in common was the purge valve assembly.

I was afraid that some were relying too much on Ford's "fix" and others just weren't in the position to drop $70+ after tax & shipping for a new part. Driving around with the failed valve could seriously damage someone's only means of transportation. This effects people's lives and I just didn't feel like the manufacturer was doing enough to respond to the problem. I've personally been in a professional position to decide if writing a citation could mean that someone would possibly lose their job or maybe not eat that week. Stuff like that is aways in the back of my mind.

So the mission rapidly became "What are the average conditions the valve fails?", "Why do they fail?", & "What is the most economical solution for the repair? Now I want you to understand that economical doesn't just mean financial, but also economy of motion. Less time under the hood equals more time on the road.

So I got to buying and testing as many as different samples as possible. I purchased a new assembly for the ST and RS from Ford. Two valves from the BAY and a ST assembly from an aftermarket vendor that is famous for selling low price OEM style parts. Then used my 2017 ST1 as the test mule because luckily enough when parts started arriving my valve started showing the signs of failure.

I did not get the purge valve TSB and have no intentions of doing so. However that is a personal opinion and not a suggestion.

Here's what I found:
View attachment 387956
The factory ST assembly was equipped with a Bosch valve that was marked "Made in Mexico" as opposed to the one originally installed on my vehicle that was stamped "Made in Germany". Cost was $65 USD before tax & shipping

The RS assembly was also "Made in Mexico" and cost $20 USD. Picked up locally at dealers.

The two purchased from the bay were both marked "Made in Germany". However only one and ironically it was the cheaper of the two at $16 USD as the $21 USD unit was clearly "Made in China" based on materials used in construction and strange marking not used in the other Ford pieces.

The "OEM" style at $50 USD is straight up hot garbage. Don't even waste your money. Brand new it leaked worse than the original Ford unit with 40K miles on it. Hell even the Chinese knock off was better constructed mechanically, but not electrically.

The anatomy of a valve:
View attachment 387957

So what actually fails in these things? Well here I'll show you. A thin metal disc with a extraordinarily small sealing surface is held flat against the valve body with a spring that looks like a should be in a ballpoint pen. When 12 VDC is applied to the coil by the PCM a magnetic field is created and the flat dice is pulled against the coil body.

View attachment 387959

This allows a vacuum to be pulled on the canister purge line allowing fuel vapors to be pulled directly into the intake post throttle. While under normal conditions you would never know this was happening because it should only happen under very specific conditions have been met. When the valve fails this extra vaporized fuel can cause significant changes to the air fuel ratio. A 1% increase in raw vaporized fuel can swing a Wideband by 20% in extreme conditions.

Is summation, when misbehaving this valve suck both figuratively and literally.

If you look closely you can see the damage caused by contamination being drawn into the purge canister system that contributes to the valves premature failure.

View attachment 387958



In the spring I plan on addressing the canister and lines next. But in my research I found that the RS has an additional vapor filter assembly that our ST's so not currently use. It also is soild as an assembly and not considered "user serviceable". Again I called BS and found that the RS Assembly used a $15 USD filter available just about anywhere automotive parts are sold.

View attachment 387960
View attachment 387961

So I did a bit more research and found the Earl's makes a fully serviceable filter for EFI systems that is equipped with a washable filter compatible with ethanol and is good down to 10 Micron. It's also smaller, lighter and the exact same price as the disposable filter Ford sells.
View attachment 387962
View attachment 387963

So the current plan is to install the filter first between the purge valve and steel vapor canister line. I will remove and disassemble it in the spring. Make note of dirt and debris captured. Then dissect the valve and inspect for damage. Once completed I will purge all the line clean and install the filter in the rear between the canister and steel vapor line. Drive over the summer and repeat the inspections.

In short if a $15 reusable filter will help people save money and protect their vehicles it's worth the effort to me to try.

Moving past mechanical failures let's look at electrical. It's pretty ****ing ridiculous how they constructed this valve internally. The coil itself is completely exposed to raw fuel vapors. In fact these vapors are actively pulled around the coil due to its axial design. Please don't tell me if for cooling effect of the coil because it's absolutely not. So those that tune for a higher ethanol content are possible hasting theirs closer to the grave faster.
View attachment 387964

Ethanol is extremely corrosive and hydrophilic (that means it loves water) but you know what hates water? Electronics, and my 5 year old daughter...

So in summation this valve, regardless of origin is poorly designed, cheaply manufactured by the lowest bidder and quite possibly rigged to fail.

So trust me when I say this ain't over, because just you wait until I hit phase 4 testing at in the fall of this year.
View attachment 387965

Stay Safe everyone!

J
Hey man. I want to thank you again for putting all that time, money, and research in for the community. I do have a few questions though regarding this install.
I'll give a little bit of insight on my current predicament.

So this time last year, my purge valve failed giving me a p1450 DTC. I ended up replacing the assembly with a new one, cleared the code, and drove around to see if it would come back. It came back after I drove for a few days so my theory was that I would have no choice but to let Ford do a PCM reset to allow me to pass inspection. Well, that's exactly what happened. I took it to them( I didn't tell them that I already replaced the valve because I didn't want that to affect their willingness to work on my car), they smoke tested it and found no leaks. They reset the PCM, engine light was gone and stayed off for a year until now. It was dummy expensive and I'd rather not do that again lol

This time, I plan on installing the F.U.F.F purge valve setup, clearing the code, and taking a small road trip at some point to see if the light comes back. Also, my inspection is due at the end of this month so I'm in a time crunch. So my questions are: If the light does come back on after doing that, do I have any other options or do I have no choice but to go back to Ford and have them take my money for no reason? Once Ford resets the PCM, is it a one and done thing, or do they have to reset it everytime we change out our valves?

Thanks again for all of your hard work and dedication to the Focus Community.
 
#21 ·
So would you say a catch can will help keep contaminants out of the intake manifold and in turn the evap valve?

Sent from another garage.
The oils that build up in the intake manifold rarely escape past the check valve I mentioned earlier. So it really won't help the purge valve at all. If oils are present on the valve sealing surface it's seeing boost. That will destroy it almost instantly. But great question!
 
#22 ·
And just as a last piece of information over-kill the Ohms reading on a working EVAP purge valve should no more the 17 Ohms.

Night kids!
 
#29 ·
Thanks for this.. After going for a drive with @W4R this problem was brought to my attention. I haven't done the recall or anything else for that matter. I've been lucky and the worst symptom I've had is an RPM dip after filling up my tank. I have also noticed a stumbling idle at startup on occasion but rarely enough to trigger a CEL.

Those super tactical operator gloves are nice but if you want to be secret squirrel approved you need some Oakley's with carbon fiber knuckles.
 
#30 ·
Those super tactical operator gloves are nice but if you want to be secret squirrel approved you need some Oakley's with carbon fiber knuckles.
Gear adrift is a gift...
 
#32 ·
Sticky post per request.

Thanks for all the kind words and support everyone!

Stay Safe
J
 
#34 ·
I believe it's 5/16".
 
#36 ·
So its not really needed to be said, dudes a genuis, helped me a ton through some crap. But @SSgtjrobertson you said the 2. Issue was people not being able to reinstall their accessports, is that like a not everyone kinda thing?

Cause I was one of the first people to get the 18s32 TSB or recall whatever they refered to it as....bandaid....and I had just uninstalled my accessport before I went in, and when I got back out I reinstalled it no issues. It pissed me off too coz they didnt even replace my valve or look at it for that matter, they just installed the pcm update, looked to see if it was throwin a code, it wasnt, so they assume that means purge valve is working?

Anyways was just curious if that was a blanket statement, or it hadnt happened to everyone but did happen to a few?

Again, as said amazing write up,...sir are you an alien? Lol
 
#39 ·
So its not really needed to be said, dudes a genuis, helped me a ton through some crap. But @SSgtjrobertson you said the 2. Issue was people not being able to reinstall their accessports, is that like a not everyone kinda thing?

Cause I was one of the first people to get the 18s32 TSB or recall whatever they refered to it as....bandaid....and I had just uninstalled my accessport before I went in, and when I got back out I reinstalled it no issues. It pissed me off too coz they didnt even replace my valve or look at it for that matter, they just installed the pcm update, looked to see if it was throwin a code, it wasnt, so they assume that means purge valve is working?

Anyways was just curious if that was a blanket statement, or it hadnt happened to everyone but did happen to a few?

Again, as said amazing write up,...sir are you an alien? Lol
The age of your current calibration is the real issue. At some point the federal government changed the acceptable amount of leak (size of the hole) a "sealed" emissions system can have. A purge valve should only release the vapors stored within the charcoal canister under specified conditions. (Engine at operating temperature, X speed, X% throttle position, & certain fuel tank levels)

Inorder to make sure the emissions equipment can perform this purge the PCM must test the systems function. This test will usually be referred to by the acceptable amount of a leak allowed before it will trigger a DTC/CEL. 20 thousandths of an inch .020", 40 thousandths of an inch .040", or on some heavy truck applications 90 thousandths of an inch .090" can be allowed.

Up until late of 2016 (sometimes listed as 2017) the .040" test was removed, meet the more strict emissions standards set by the Comrades in the EPA. This left the .020" test the only option for our vehicles. They also changed when a DTC/CEL is triggered. Normally a fault must occur a set number of times before the PCM will let you know.

Remember: Not all DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) will trigger a CEL (check engine light). So unless you scan for codes you may have an issue and not even know it. Why do you think it’s referred to as an "IDIOT LIGHT"?

If the valve fails electrically it will trigger a DTC/CEL fairly quickly. Normally the mechanical failure would need to be pretty severe before a CEL would be set. The truth of the matter is, the valve is just a bad design. We are not the only ones that have this issue. This isn't just a Ford thing, but it's still their responsibility.

Please don't think I'm knocking local dealership techs either. The industry has encouraged a "part swapping" environment over trained technicians. Those with a genuine desire to learn or passion for troubleshooting normally move on from the dealerships or from the industry entirely.

The manufacturers & dealers are about profits. They keep the techs under paid and hamstrung with book times. But people need to stop relying on the "ThE CoMpUtER sAyS ItS fInE" excuse too.

If you're vehicle is within the allowed calibration period the answer is simple. The dealership (unless their one of the goods ones) are going to five you the finger and show you the door.

If you're very clearly not within the calibration range and they tell you that everything is fine without inspection of the tank, replacement of the valve assembly and a PCM reflash then they are lying to you.

We still have major grounding issues in the engine harness that still haven't been addressed. And a TSB that says plugs should be gapped at 1mm (.040") to prevent misfires? WTF?!?!
 
#37 ·
Interestingly enough i brought my 2014 ST to the Ford dealership for this recall/tsb. And it has jever seen the dealer before. But still they told me that my PCM had the latest software and no further fix was needed..... how is it possible that a 2014 had the latest software. Oh well. I guess i will follow up with this write up and still replace my purge valve

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
#40 ·
Small update Dorman has some various replacement clips available should you choose the valve only replacement route.
$5.99 USD before tax.

388023
 
#41 ·
Great write-up. Thanks so much for the comprehensive theory, practice, and solution to Ford's engineered failure. At 20k miles I'll look out for symptoms in my ST but it seems like they are inevitable.
 
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