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:lol::lol:
 

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FYI to the perspective GS competitors - a good GS starter pack is now for sale in the classifieds. 17x8 OZ wheels + strano bar + MBRP 3" 304 cat back exhaust. If someone wanted all 3, I'd be willing to sell it as a bundle for $1050 + shipping (local pickup preferred).
 

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FYI to the perspective GS competitors - a good GS starter pack is now for sale in the classifieds. 17x8 OZ wheels + strano bar + MBRP 3" 304 cat back exhaust. If someone wanted all 3, I'd be willing to sell it as a bundle for $1050 + shipping (local pickup preferred).
How much for just the wheels? And do you have pictures?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

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Bump. I'm considering selling my HS '08 Civic Si and getting a 2015+ ST2 and running it in GS. Sucks that getting Konis for the newer STs is a pain, but I don't think I can give up the upgrades from a 2015+ and get a pre-2015 (not like I'm nationally competitive anyway lol).

Anyway, I've started a thread in the general discussion section with some questions about these: https://www.focusst.org/forum/focus...nking-about-getting-2015-st2.html#post2488053

I would appreciate some insight from you guys if you're willing! Thanks!
 

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Hi - for anyone here that's installed Konis, could you share a picture of how you modified the strut brace to get access to the front top adjusters?

TIA..
 

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Hi - for anyone here that's installed Konis, could you share a picture of how you modified the strut brace to get access to the front top adjusters?
Generally people use a hole saw and drill out directly above the adjuster. Only problem is the adjuster is still tough to grab hold of... you won't be able to use the Koni knob.

While the season is temporarily cancelled, I should go back and clean up my holes. In reality, though, I haven't needed to adjust them (mine are the custom inserts set about mid-range).
 

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How does drilling affect the ability to get all the shrouding/cowl stuff back on?
 

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How does drilling affect the ability to get all the shrouding/cowl stuff back on?
No effect. It goes back on the same way it comes off. That brace is terribly flimsy though, so one must exercise care during removal and reinstallation.
 

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Took the opportunity to put Pepper on the scales at the Packwood Tour. 3100 lbs with a full tank of fuel. With me in the driver seat wearing a helmet, the corner weights were:
LF 1090 950 RF
LR 639 643 RR

61.4% F
38.6% R

52.0% L / 48.0% R
 

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Realized that I can estimate the CG height since photos show that I lift both inside wheels at around 1.20 G cornering force. CG height (inches) = Transferred weight (lbs) * Track width (inches) / (G-force (G) * Total weight (lbs))

Avg track width of Pepper with the Enkei RPF1s is 61.34"
Weight is from the post above
G force comes from SoloStorm & RaceCapture/Track paired up with photos showing inside wheels lifting off the ground

If the left side (driver's side) is lifted, then cg height is 26.5"
If the right side (passenger's side) is lifted, then cg height is 24.6"

So that is the ballpark and, if one wants to be conservative, it's probably closer to 26.5" than 24.6".
***
Conclusion #1
GS legal 17x8 Enkei RPF1s have a 48mm offset, so if one selects 38mm offset for STH, then cornering force only goes up 0.013 G before wheels are lifting. Therefore selecting a wheel for maximum track is of minimal importance.

Conclusion #2
Lowering 2" is required to improve to 1.30 G before inside wheels lift. This is probably too low to maintain good geometry and damper range, therefore removing high weight is of utmost importance to achieve the 1.30+ G goal.

Conclusion #3
STH spring rates are best chosen to limit body roll for camber geometry, limit nosedive, and allow better slalom response.
 
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Updated conclusions in the above post.
 

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I want to see these PHOTOS! Both inside wheels is worth looking at. And this is GS, right?
Yes, GS. Follow the links to the pics here in the forum.
 

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I can't find the thread where we talked about trying a non-square tire setup for GS, so I'm just gonna plant it here...

255/40-17 Bridgestones in front, 245s in back. Surprisingly not awful. It was easier to be fast than with 245s square, mainly because of better power transfer. Downside is predictability and neatness... it's more difficult to catch the rear if you toss the car.

Overall, it highlighted that I prefer a square setup and 255 square gives the most grip. I've yet to find a reason to stick with 245s unless you're having troubles with cold rear tires and you should fix that by proper tire compound choice for your environment, alignment, and shocks. If you consistently want more rotation, change the rear swaybar.
 

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I can't find the thread where we talked about trying a non-square tire setup for GS, so I'm just gonna plant it here...

255/40-17 Bridgestones in front, 245s in back. Surprisingly not awful. It was easier to be fast than with 245s square, mainly because of better power transfer. Downside is predictability and neatness... it's more difficult to catch the rear if you toss the car.

Overall, it highlighted that I prefer a square setup and 255 square gives the most grip. I've yet to find a reason to stick with 245s unless you're having troubles with cold rear tires and you should fix that by proper tire compound choice for your environment, alignment, and shocks. If you consistently want more rotation, change the rear swaybar.
Good observation. I recall the GTi GS guys do the narrow rear tires for this reason as the rear isn't as lively as the FoST. I never really found rotation on this platform to be an issue, but mainly its very easy to overdrive the front end even with an LSD, and it still takes discipline with the right foot, although its much easier to do so than in open diff/brake vectoring form .
 
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Adjustment/selection of the rear swaybar is only critical for turn-in because when the inside wheel lifts off the ground, it's no longer doing anything. This is why the FoST is at its best in long sweepers.

That has been bouncing around inside my head for the past couple years and only yesterday did I recognize that, for STH design purposes(*), I can measure the G-force required for the wheel to lift. All I need to do is mount the GoPro where it can see a rear wheel, drive, and let Solostorm do its thing. Unfortunately, my autox season has ended... I did go through pics from events and matched them up with Solostorm data, but that exercise only told me what I already knew: by 1G, the wheel is already well in the air. So it likely lifts at around 0.9G, maybe 0.8G, which is too big of a range for design purposes. Pity the local parking lots are too small or have too many cameras.

(*) Designing for GS is pointless as tripoding "always happens" well before you've reached peak G-force. A sensitive-butt driver might be able to calibrate their corner entry better, but I'm paying more attention to whether my line is holding or not. For STH, however, knowing the number helps calibrate roll stiffness... @freakin_elrod will probably tell me "just use my spring rates because it will still always tripod" and he wouldn't be wrong, but I'd still like to make a coherent STH suspension design.
 
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