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Silicon intake elbow is not street class legal. There's something specifically in the rules about being able to replace it, but the surface finish on the inside must be the same as the stock one. Recirculation valves are also not allowed in street class.
 

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K thanks. What if I removed Focus badge from back of the car? What about an m3 lip spoiler? Accessory?
 

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Debadging is fine, it's completely aesthetic. Here's a link to a good quick sheet showing what is allowed. The lip spoiler is not allowed, any body work change of any kind is not allowed in street category. It may seem stupid, but otherwise every single modification is going to have to somehow be justified as purely aesthetic and not for an aerodynamic advantage over the stock part, which puts a lot of burden on the people running the event and the person with the modded bodywork.

http://cdn.growassets.net/user_file...ference_of_Category_Allowances.pdf?1454446940

If you're mostly wanting to have a nicely modified and upgraded car rather than compete competitively in GS class, then you should do that and either compete in the appropriate class or an open class. I don't have a "mod bug" and I want to stay in a competitive class, so that's why I'm happy in GS.
 

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Question about wheel studs:
Just purchased my ST 4 days ago and still very new to the platform. I came from a STX prepped BRZ. With the 86, replacing the OEM wheel studs with ARP studs was a must. The OEM ones were garbage and would snap after 3 or 4 wheel swaps. How are they on the Focus? My RPF1's w/ Re71's will be here tomorrow to break in before next weeks event. Just wandering if I should be proactive and change the studs when I install my swaybar next month. Nothing worse than snapping a stud the night before a race & have to miss it.
 

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Question about wheel studs:
Just purchased my ST 4 days ago and still very new to the platform. I came from a STX prepped BRZ. With the 86, replacing the OEM wheel studs with ARP studs was a must. The OEM ones were garbage and would snap after 3 or 4 wheel swaps. How are they on the Focus? My RPF1's w/ Re71's will be here tomorrow to break in before next weeks event. Just wandering if I should be proactive and change the studs when I install my swaybar next month. Nothing worse than snapping a stud the night before a race & have to miss it.
Here is the copy-paste of the rules:

"13.4 WHEELS
Any type wheel may be used provided it complies with the following:
A. It is the same width as standard and as installed it does not have an offset more than ±7.00 mm (±0.275”) from a standard wheel for the car. The resultant change in track dimensions is allowed.
B. Wheel (rim) diameter may be increased or decreased 1” from the standard part.
Wheel spacers are permitted provided the resultant combination complies with the offset requirements of this Section. On vehicles supplied with an OE wheel spacer, the wheel spacer shall be considered as a part of the wheel. Wheel studs, lug nuts, valve stems (including pressure-relief types), and/or bolt length may be changed. Wheel bolts may be replaced with studs and nuts but the number of fasteners may not be changed. Tire pressure monitoring sensors may be removed. Centerlock/Spline Drive/Knock-off type hubs may be converted to lug type hubs provided the resultant combination complies with the offset requirements of this Section."
When I saw this question asked a few years ago, you can change to ARP studs. As far as I know, I have not heard of a FoST or FiST having a stud break due to the issues you brought up with the BRX/86's.

Likewise, if you have a question about the rules, ask your region when you go to the event to confirm with them that this is what you see and you don't see an issue with it.
 

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I've done at least 25 wheel swaps torquing to 100 ftlb and haven't snapped a lug yet. Getting some shavings so there is some thread wear.
 

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I've done approx 30-40 wheel changes per year for the past nearly 3 years with no issues. 100ftlb and occasional anti-sieze on the threads.
 

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So what all has to be done to put Koni adjustables on a 2016 being prepped for GS class?
 

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So what all has to be done to put Koni adjustables on a 2016 being prepped for GS class?
I'm wondering this as well since apparently no one makes front shocks since the re design in the MY14+. I am trying to find out if its just as simple as getting some MY13 front springs, use my MY17 top hats, and get Koni's or Bilsteins for all 4 corners. I would hate to only be able to use aftermarket shocks in the rear and OEM in the front.
 

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for the 14+ dampers, the only real option to keep you GS legal would be to use the stock housing and a koni insert or somehow modding a damper to accomdate the oem 14+ spring perch. As far as I recall from the rule book, backdating parts is not legal in the street class. propartsusa is the only one I know of that does any kind of front damper for the 14+ FoST
 

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Any recommendations on how to cool these cars down between runs? I'm planning on having my buddy co drive with me for the next event and just as a single drive car it seems to get excruciatingly hot. Currently I turn car off, pop hood, then run the AC as I'm approaching the line to keep the fans running. With 2 drivers I wont have enough time to turn the car off between runs. Was thinking of bringing a water sprayer for the intercooler and keeping the hood popped but that's about all I can think of. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, or maybe I'm just being overly paranoid.
 

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Any recommendations on how to cool these cars down between runs? I'm planning on having my buddy co drive with me for the next event and just as a single drive car it seems to get excruciatingly hot. Currently I turn car off, pop hood, then run the AC as I'm approaching the line to keep the fans running. With 2 drivers I wont have enough time to turn the car off between runs. Was thinking of bringing a water sprayer for the intercooler and keeping the hood popped but that's about all I can think of. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, or maybe I'm just being overly paranoid.
I leave the car running to keep the coolant flowing and spray down the intercooler, radiator, charge pipes, and intake when I run. I've always felt leaving the car on helps keep the car cooler than shutting it off since when it is off the fans and everything won't be running to help cool the car. I've only done two events in the ST but it seems to help some.

My wife and I co-drive and I can definitely tell the car is getting hot by the end of our runs. I had to buy better brake pads because the factory ones were so hot that the car barely slowed down even with my foot to the floor...
 

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Any recommendations on how to cool these cars down between runs? I'm planning on having my buddy co drive with me for the next event and just as a single drive car it seems to get excruciatingly hot. Currently I turn car off, pop hood, then run the AC as I'm approaching the line to keep the fans running. With 2 drivers I wont have enough time to turn the car off between runs. Was thinking of bringing a water sprayer for the intercooler and keeping the hood popped but that's about all I can think of. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, or maybe I'm just being overly paranoid.
I don't usually have a co-driver, but even on as a single driver on hot days, I keep the engine running, turn the A/C on, and pop the hood between runs to help cool the car down. I don't typically spray the intercooler or radiator, but if you're worried about oil or coolant temps, spraying the radiator is a good idea. Once the oil temp gets down a little below the halfway mark (and isn't going any lower), I'll turn the car off. Most tires will need spraying between each run to stay at all consistent. The RE-71R definitely does.

I did eventually get a mushy brake pedal one event due to re-runs while using OEM pads and factory, 3 year old fluid. A flush with OEM fluid restored the brake feel and performance. No experience with aftermarket pads or fluids.
 

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Hi - finally read all 15 pages.

I just picked up a 2016 ST3 as a daily. I am looking to semi prep it for goofing off locally. The Evo is probably taking another year off.

I have some 255-40-17 RE71R and 245-40-17 RE71R. Neither are particularly fresh; IIRC they are ~2.5 years old or thereabouts. They both have about 60-70 runs on them. They've been stored indoors but who knows..

I was going to pick up some cheap 17x8s and throw the old stones on there. For the folks who have been running 255s, are you running 255s square or 255 front 245 rear? It seems like folks don't have issues getting the car to rotate but was curious what people thought.

Thanks
John
 

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Rotation is not a problem at all, a little mid corner lift and I haven’t had an issue. I always ran a square 255 setup since I could rotate and flip
The tires more (do this offend as the FoST likes to eat up it’s front tires)

I have a set of class legal 17x8 Moda MD18’s available for cheap if you are interested.
 

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Has anybody considered/attempted/or heard of anyone attempting to cut off the spring perches of the front strut and welding them to a 2013 Koni Yellow front strut? Are these koni yellow struts something you can disassemble and fill with water to disperse the heat from welding? Then reassemble post welding. A SCCA Rules guy suggested this as being legal if I could manage it.
 

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It would be far easier to use the Koni insert and hack up a stock strut. Or Pro-Parts will make a set for you but they aren’t cheap.
Is there any other place, besides ProParts, that will do this conversion? They sound nice and all, but $650 per strut is a bit of a shock.
 

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Is there any other place, besides ProParts, that will do this conversion? They sound nice and all, but $650 per strut is a bit of a shock.
"$650 per strut is a bit of a shock."

Pun intended? ;) :lol:
 
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