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Discussion Starter #1
I have been meaning to start a build thread for awhile so here goes. I bought my car from Rob T at the end of 2014. It was the best set up used car and price I could find and have not seen any deal to match yet. As I got it from Rob it was a full stage III Cobb,LSD, KW Varient III Shocks,Cobb sway bars,ATS 8.5 inch wheels,JBR catch can,Clutchmasters FX 250 clutch and flywheel,Steeda short shift bracket and shifter,JBR solid shifter base bushings,custom Mustang hood vents, pedal spacer. When I picked it up it had 3k miles and had never been driven in the rain. In reality it was a very well set up new car. It saw rain and snow on the drive back to Wyoming. I drove it this way for a year. The two things I did not like at first was it would overheat going up a mountain pass and brake fade. It is not a daily driver and I really only use it for trips and when I feel like racing around. After finding too many deer on the road during a trip to southern Utah I stopped in Salt Lake city on the way back and bought Brembos. P1060925Edit.jpg
So braking fixed. The next fix was the overheating. I wanted to do a trackday at UMSC but did not want to deal with the overheating problem at the track. So a Deadhook crash bar and Zun Sport grill, oil cooler P1060042_edited-1.jpg and some ducting fixed the cooling problem and a 90 degree day at UMSC proved no problem, 208 was the highest coolent temp I saw. WMI seemed like a good cooling thing to add also. So a Aquwamist HSF4 was intalled before the trackday.
Then I started researching chassis braces and decided to get them all. This included a Steeda front shocktower and FS Works rear shocktower brace, Peirce 6point bottom front brace, a custom rear bottom brace and mid chassis brace, and fender braces. The fender braces was the most noticeable change. It really increased turn in and outright corner speed.

Tire wear and alignment numbers were off so JBR camber arms and toe arms bought the numbers into spec. I added a JBR billet swaybar mount at the same time. Next came adj swaybar arms at all four corners. It doing all this I now have heim joints at 12 points in the rear end instead of rubber bushings. The rear swaybar has two mounts and changeing to the stiffer one really took away trace off understeer. The last changes for chassis will be a Steeda Bump steer kit ( I got the last one they made) and White Line bushing all around.

I have all the mm and transmission mounts. Also the shift cable bushings and solid steering rack bushings.

So I decided I would not go big turbo unless I had a spare motor to build. I thought this would prevent me from doing this but a brand new long block came into view for only $1k. So I pulled the trigger. I went to Denver and got rides in a number of BT cars and settled for a 2.3 build with a GTX 2867. P1060394Edit.jpg
I want to be able to run hard up a mountain pass at 10,000ft and not overheat and have the best pull coming out of a second gear corner with right now boost. I can only run 91 gas with WMI so 400 hp seems like the best power level to get too. It took me a while to come up with the parts combo to do what I wanted. The short block has been at the engine shop for almost a year. I just got my custom Manley pistons to use with Speed Three rods. This puts the piston at the right level in the hole and I got to call out my CR. I settled on just under 10 to 1 which I thing will work well at the elevations I run at. P1070204Edit.jpg ARP studs top and bottom,I beam rods, BS delete,stock head, 4point aux fuel and WMI. I think this combo will give me just what I want. The car will corner , stop, and accelerate on mountain roads as well as any ST out there. I take the rods and pistons to engine shop on Monday and the build process will get in gear again. Tog 2 Edit.jpg
 

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Great post, excellent car. What type of WMI do you have? TB? Intercooler? 4port DPI?
 

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I find it interesting that we put (stronger, billet alloy) fender braces on Mk1 Legacys, too, and noticed the same improvement for very low cost. They were much more flexible cars than the ST, but I think the thing I like so much about the ST is that there's a lot of similar robust feel and eager character between the two cars, though one's more like a rally car set up for asphalt and the other for gravel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
While waiting for the new short block I decided to go ahead and start the bushing project. I am working off the floor so one end at a time starting at the rear. 5 years and 40k miles and there is some wear and tear to be seen. This will be a difference I am sure to feel. I am thinking about a shock rebuid also to have a fully new suspension. If you cannot have a new car its the next best thing. So the rear suspension now will 12 hiemjoints and 6 bushings. P1070211Edit.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I got the rear bushing finished today. Now that its done I learned a few things. Whiteline does not make all the bushings. It took 5 orders from them to tell me that. I asked why they do not make all of them and they had not answer. So I ordered from Powerflex to finish the job. That only took two orders to get right. If you use their chart of the website you should not have a problem. Without that it seems nobody can keep it straight what is what. The good news is no change in NVH. The rear is just planted and it takes a set with no extra movement. Now onto the front which I think will be even more noticeable. My engine shop called today and I need to order oversize main bearings. They were ready to assemble the short bock when they measured, so that got set back a week or so. P1070212 Edit.jpg P1070213Edit.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got the front bushing in last night and went for a good drive today on one of my favorite mountain roads. Wow! Its like getting a new car in the way it feels and responds. Everything feels much tighter. It was a bit of a learning curve doing it. After much effort I decided the rear control arm Whiteline bushings just were not going to work and I threw them away and got Powerflex bushings. The Whiteline bushings are a cross part with Mazda and I think they are in fact made for the Mazda maybe could work on the ST But it could take forever to get them to fit right. They are shorter the stock ones and do not fit the housing tight enough. They are If they are not in the right location in the housing the inside part squeezes out. If they are close to the right location you cannot get the housing bolts in. The Powerflex bushing is just the bushing itself which presses into the housing. No location issues. To get the old bushings out you need a torch,hacksaw blade, die grinder, and a press. Its a very messy job. I just got a portable lift and the next project is the bump steer kit. The 2.3 engine build had another delay with the wrong bearings being sent but should be done next week. I went to our local cars and coffee before my drive. This 275 Ferrari is one of my favorites. I do not know how he brings himself to drive a $3million car on the road. I would be a nervous wreck. P1070230Edit.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I forgot to mention that the corner entry rotation that Ford builds into the ST is not change at all by all the suspension work I have done.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
P1070234 Edit.jpg P1070235 Edit.jpg P1070237 Edit.jpg Well it only took me 8 months longer that I wanted but I got the short block back today. So a 2.3 Mustang crank, balanced, keyed, and balance gear removed. ARP main studs, line honed and after several bearing orders the they all came in a .002. Manley Speed Three I beam rods, custom Manley HD pistons set up at .003 clearance and sitting 40 thou in the hole. ARP head studs, the head is brand new and does get anything done to it. So once the engine is done then I have to decide when to put it in and suffer the down time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was thinking last night about anyone who has done a 2.3 build with the shorter rods. This would increase emissions because it leaves more unburned mixture above the ring lands. Has anyone with a built one have to pass a emission test? Not a problem here in Wy!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Engine is now done. Waiting for the best time to stop driving it and put it in. I need to leave enough time to tune while there is still enough heat in the roads for it to hook up! P1070543Edit.jpg P1070544Edit.jpg
 
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