lol I appreciate the offer, I'm sure you'd have it sorted in no time at all.If you were closer, I'd have pushed you out the way and given it "Ye Olde Dueceover" and sorted that ****er, but nooooooooooooo, you like lobsters and snow for some reason.
A damn shame really I don't even like lobster, but I do like fall foliage and mountain roads.
Thanks for the suggestions, I guess this is how I need to approach this if I want to get this solved, double check everything, and don't spend too much time over analyzing test results. The reality is that since this is the first car I've been this deeply involved in, I'm still learning what to check and when Especially if its a problem that not many people have had on this platform.Humor aside.
I'd go traditional troubleshooting. Like always. Assume nothing, check everything. Start with the basics and work your way through.
Spark plugs, boost leak test, verify map sensors, ign corrections, exhaust leaks, check O2's, check grounds, false knock? , etc
PCV system, intake leaks, is your catch can open!!! the basics.
Lol can you tell I'm not that experienced...no wife yetAh, the life of an engineer... Always looking for logic in an erratic or unusual situation, haha. I know the feeling, but I also have a Wife. Logic doesn't work well with women, so I guess that's where I find balance in life. "Where is the thing I put exactly right there 32 minutes ago??", "Oh, I put it away... somewhere (sweeping and circling arm motion) over there." Faaaa-Q! haha.
Anyways, have you done a leak down test? I know you already ran the compression test.
I didn't do a leakdown test, I almost bought the tester but kidna shied away from it, I don't think I need that, if my catch can was filling up really rapidly I would run a leakdown test, but the car runs fine, it just struggles to start. Leakdown test is on the backburner for now.
Thank you for the reply this is really helpful! This means I can probably just ignore the low numbers on the tester, and I can move my search away from the cam phasers, I really appreciate this!You're the 3rd or 4th person that's had low numbers with the harbor freight tool.
When you're cranking the engine. The cam phasers are parked with a lock pin. Timing changes arent possible until oil pressure is built.
In general here is a list of everything I have looked at so far:
- There are no stored or pending codes
- Battery tested good at atuozone
- Starter tested good at autozone (not sure about how this test works)
- Compression is good
- HPFP always meets commanded pressure
- LPFP holds ~100PSI for at least 5 minutes
- Coolant does not leak into cylinders
- Coolant system holds pressure (15PSI)
- Coolant is not being lost
- Combustion gas does not leak into coolant system
- Crankcase pressure is within prescribed limits per shop manual
- Oil is not mixed with coolant
- Oil is not mixed with gasoline
- Oil is not being lost
- Spark plugs are new (no misfires once started assume ignition system is ok?)
- PCV hoses and CCV hoses are not cracked and are properly connected
- O2 sensors are properly connected and have no melted or broken cables
- Changing tune does not change the symptom
So where does that leave me? If Compression is there, and spark is there, and timing is there, then that just brings me right back to the fuel system.
Here is a list of things I need to check:
- MAP sensors
- Temp sensors
- lines in and around the turbo
- Injectors themselves (O-rings and teflon)
- Injector wiring (right order, frayed or broken wires etc)
- High pressure fuel line
- Wiring (to and around the injectors)
- Coolant temp sensor
- Cylinder head temp sensor
- AC dependency
- leakdown test
- BOV vacuum line
- smoke test
- boost leak test
If you guys think of anything else that I should check or you would check then let me know and I'll add it to the list! I think if I can get the right PID monitored I should be able to catch this issue on a forscan data log, the trick is just knowing where to look. Forscan is super powerful I'm realizing, being able to watch the data live during cranking is amazing.
The other symptom I've noticed is that on a cold morning it starts fine, and in general if the temperature is low the car starts well, if its warm out (above 60F) and you let is sit for a half hour, it starts like absolute ass.