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Discussion Starter · #881 ·
I'd like to drive someone's car who has a regular ATP kit, to see if I can feel the difference, maybe I'll see if someone in my local group is willing to give me a ride lol.
 

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You could put a stock turbo log against 2867 in VDyno and it will show the different power curves in a general sense.

I recently switched to G25-660 and had to change my driving style a bit due to the lag, especially going through corners, compared to stock turbo. LSD helped tremendously - being able to apply more throttle on corner exit allows me to spool the turbo sooner.

If I want to give it the beans I shift to 4000 RPM vs trying to spool around 3000 RPM. There is still a spool lag, but not as noticeable at the higher RPM. Flat-foot-shifting helps avoid a lag event in the next gear. From a stop, bouncing the launch control limiter is necessary now to avoid what feels like an awkward takeoff. Normal stop and go feels better and easier on the drivetrain though. Stock Turbo had almost too much torque.


Just my take, get more time with yours and let us know your thoughts as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #883 ·
Rectangle Plot Slope Font Parallel

For what its worth heres a comparison of the stock turbo to the big turbo, i do not trust vdyno, I've taken multiple pulls from different days, and different times and always get different results.

I have real dyno runs that say the car made 255WHP and 330TQ on the stock turbo, I only got one vdyno run to ever say anything close to 250WHP stock turbo and I was running 100 octane when that happened.

SO with that said, from looking at this comparison I can say I am safely in the 300's for power. Knowing the real dyno run was ~25HP off I'm gonna guess I'm making around 345WHP on the big turbo, I'm gonna go on the dyno eventually and we'll have some real numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #884 ·
Vdyno seems pretty good at calculating torque, so I am going to assume that number is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #885 ·
Here’s are some pictures from during the install, rest assured I’m gonna get some pics of the whole setup installed, I don’t have time to get to my parents place and get under the car but once I do I’ll snap pics for you guys!


Once I get time to replace the busted trans mount and do the trans fluid and brake fluid I’ll get under there

This was my favorite interaction during the install lol





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I wondered if it was Max that was doing the install for you.
You should do the Torque Solution downpipe mount when you're under there; it's a much sturdier setup
 

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Discussion Starter · #888 · (Edited)
Wtf is that ghetto DP bracket, lol
Its actually not as ghetto as you'd think, its how the Cobb DP comes, it allows it to be adjusted easier, which I really like to be honest. He added those extra two nuts as spacers to keep it from hitting the subframe, but the extra leverage that puts on the mount causes the DP to flex and hit the cross brace. Gonna have to mess with it again, its a bit of a balancing act between the vband, the mount, and the stud placement to get it to not hit anything, when done right it doesn't hit.

The mount is the RDC mount, and it hasn't failed me yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #889 ·
I wondered if it was Max that was doing the install for you.
You should do the Torque Solution downpipe mount when you're under there; it's a much sturdier setup
Are you local to me? How do you know max?
 

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Its actually not as ghetto as you'd think, its how the Cobb DP comes, it allows it to be adjusted easier, which I really like to be honest. He added those extra two nuts as spacers to keep it from hitting the subframe, but the extra leverage that puts on the mount causes the DP to flex and hit the cross brace. Gonna have to mess with it again, its a bit of a balancing act between the vband, the mount, and the stud placement to get it to not hit anything, when done right it doesn't hit.

The mount is the RDC mount, and it hasn't failed me yet.
I fully understand what is happening, but all that extra hardware and shiz. Not my cup of tea.

I ran a RDC for 6 years, still great.
 
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Discussion Starter · #891 ·
I fully understand what is happening, but all that extra hardware and shiz. Not my cup of tea.

I ran a RDC for 6 years, still great.
Yeah I think it can be done better, I have to mess with it.
 

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I wondered if it was Max that was doing the install for you.
You should do the Torque Solution downpipe mount when you're under there; it's a much sturdier setup
I looks nice but it adds some vibration to the car. I’ll say more than an engine mount in my case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #895 ·
Semi-local--in southern VT. I know Max only from the NERST Facebook Group.
That’s local enough lol, you gonna join us for the kanc cruise in October? I’ll be there for sure!

I always have a good time lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #896 · (Edited)



Also this was a little something else I did before the turbo went in, I was trying to stick to my word of not posting here until it was turbo time lol, so I saved the photo for later.


Swapped the worm clamps on my CCV catch can to these crimp clamp things. These are totally superior in every way, as long as youre ok with the removal process being potentially destructive lol.

The worm clamps were catching on wires behind the intake and were just awful overall. This is much cleaner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2014 ST3. Garrett Powermax turbo, Thermal Turboback, CPE intercooler, JBR intake, Innovative RMM
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How do you install the crimp clamps? Do you crimp them with something like this?

It seems a bit unwieldy to get that big crimper in tight spots.

Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SREP...abc_FBCTQ4CPNC56QX317YMQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You could, but thats overkill for the smaller clamps. You can use something like a pair of small end cutting pliers. I've done it for years installing S.U.R.&R fuel and trans line kits. They include a large pair like the ones you linked but often times those dont fit in tight areas.

 
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