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Discussion Starter #461
When they "break" it is usually the oil filled bushing that gives out and leaks. But, a "weird bulge" may allow for undesired movement.
I’ll take a photo tonight, it may be work taking it out and inspecting it just to see how it looks.


I have dsmm and psmm with like 17k southern miles on them.. :D
I’ll keep you in mind ;)

You bring up a really good point about the snow/salt and snow tires creating traction issues.... think about the internal transmission gears loading and unloading, that has to create some pretty violent knocks as the tires are gaining/loosing traction.
I think it’s a good thought, but like deuce said, if he has no false knock then I shouldn’t either. I’m doubtful it’s the LSD but you never know.


I’m thinking about potential ways to test for false knock, like putting a GoPro in the engine at different locations to see if I can see it happening while I drive. Or putting grease pencil marks on parts that are close together to see if they touch at any point.


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Discussion Starter #462 (Edited)
The interesting thing is, it’s actually got worse since yesterday. That’s actually good news because it means at some point I touched the thing causing the issue.

I’m thinking about looking at that passenger side charge pipe clamp again. I realized that since the IC is now mounted to the radiator, there’s a lot more chances for that clamp to hit the support. With the mountune unit because it’s mounted to the chassis, there’s not much chance of that happening.


Maybe I could switch back to the stock worm drive clamps and see if that helps me somehow. The bolt that sticks out of the t bolt is close to the rad support and it’s hard to find a spot where it’s far away from anything.

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Maybe take a picture of the under side of the car to do we can see the charge pipes
 

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Discussion Starter #464
Maybe take a picture of the under side of the car to do we can see the charge pipes
I’ll get a photo for you guys as soon as I can.

Of the charge pipes and the psmm


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Discussion Starter #465 (Edited)
Checklist

  • re check hot side intercooler charge pipe t bolt clamp
  • check PSMM (photo)
  • check charge pipes (photo)
  • check trans mount


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Discussion Starter #466
Tonight I drained my tank down to 40 miles of range left (roughly 2 gal of fuel) and put in 5 gallons of Sunoco GT260 100 octane unleaded race fuel.


At a price of $10/gallon anyway...



Knock fell off a cliff, it didn’t go away entirely, which kind of surprised me, but it was much much lower. I saw maybe 4 corrections go negative across dozens of pulls. Which is excellent news because it means that I don’t have as much of an issue as I thought.


What does this mean:

Before I had been using 2 gallons of e85 mixed with a whole tank, and separately, 1 can of VP octanium mixed with a tank. During the summer months those two combinations would always take the knock down to 0. And I mean really 0, for the entire tank there would be no knock at all, pull after pull even on sweltering days.

I assumed this exact same thinking would apply in the winter. However I was wrong. The only conclusion I can draw is the following:

1. Winter blend fuel is real and is noticeably worse than summer blend.
2. Winter blend fuel + 2 gallons of e85 or a can of torco is not enough to stop the fost from knocking. The difference is almost unnoticeable.

Now here’s the kicker, I don’t know if I should reasonably have expected to see any knock at all on the 100 octane GT260. Granted what was in my tank was more like 98 octane, I can’t shake the feeing that there should have been 0 knock on that setup. Which leads me to the conclusion.


There is false knock on my setup but it is significantly less intense and less constant than I had thought it was. Perhaps related to the mountune RMM, or maybe the intercooler clamps hitting the rad support. This assumption entirely hinges on the assumption that the car should not have pinged at all on GT260, which I have zero evidence to support other than a hunch.


The other conclusion is that there was something causing false knock on the setup that I fixed in the pst day while messing around. This is because I no longer get knocks while rolling around a parking lot.

My plugs are basically brand new (<5k) but potentially widened from all this pinging going on. Which may explain the suddenly worsening condition.


Either way this isn’t the end of this story but a definite turning point. Sorry for the anti climactic result lol.


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How many miles are on your car? 5k for plugs shouldn’t make a difference. Remember that gas stations tend to sell lower E content fuel in the winter months. The range around me is legally E51-E85 out of the fuel ethanol pump.
 
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Discussion Starter #469

3rd gear pull, you have to look at global knock, i'm just really surprised to see any ignition retard at all on 100 octane. But if I was having as much of an issue as i was with straight 93, i can't say i'm too surprised.

I think its time to check some plug gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #470
How many miles are on your car? 5k for plugs shouldn’t make a difference. Remember that gas stations tend to sell lower E content fuel in the winter months. The range around me is legally E51-E85 out of the fuel ethanol pump.
Car has 43k on it, it’s gotta be just winter gas in general. I’ll check my plugs but I doubt that’s the issue, I just changed them not that long ago.


I’m betting this is just something I’ll have to deal with in the winter time.

When I had my freektune I had it made in the winter and I only made 240whp, maybe this is why.

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Car has 43k on it, it’s gotta be just winter gas in general. I’ll check my plugs but I doubt that’s the issue, I just changed them not that long ago.


I’m betting this is just something I’ll have to deal with in the winter time.

When I had my freektune I had it made in the winter and I only made 240whp, maybe this is why.

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When logging to help refine the Monster Tuned Adapt X last December I was running 91 octane winter fuel; no knock, 5-6 degree positive corrections and 255-260 hp on vdyno. Winter fuel in general sucks though, I do agree that it is something we have to deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter #472
When logging to help refine the Monster Tuned Adapt X last December I was running 91 octane winter fuel; no knock, 5-6 degree positive corrections and 255-260 hp on vdyno. Winter fuel in general sucks though, I do agree that it is something we have to deal with.
What was your OAR? Mine is at -1 so it’s running as aggressive as it can, sometimes I feel like it should be stopping a bit earlier


I actually did a kam reset this morning to set the OAR back to 0, and even with OAR = 0 and 100 oct in the tank I STILL got a small negative correction. That I believe is probably some false knock somewhere, but not enough for me to pay any mind to, could be down to a bumpy road or other issue.

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What was your OAR? Mine is at -1 so it’s running as aggressive as it can, sometimes I feel like it should be stopping a bit earlier


I actually did a kam reset this morning to set the OAR back to 0, and even with OAR = 0 and 100 oct in the tank I STILL got a small negative correction. That I believe is probably some false knock somewhere, but not enough for me to pay any mind to, could be down to a bumpy road or other issue.

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On that particular revision OAR stayed at 0 with 91; he has since sent a newer map that OAR starts at -.5 for 91; I have it loaded but the weather has been so nasty that the car has not been out of the garage for 2 weeks. On the Adapt X tune OAR will never get to -1 on 91 octane, it will probably settle somewhere between -.5 and 0; on 93 octane it should go to -1.
 

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Discussion Starter #474
After driving around a bit more I’m pretty sure the issue is solved. Here’s what I believe happened.


- There was false knock from something, either intercooler or the downpipe, or both.

- At the same time I was running poor quality fuel

- I switched the IC to stock and false knock remained
I switched the DP to stock and it appeared to quiet down (this is on torco)

- I put the mountune IC back in and left the stock DP and false knock returned, however at this point I had the stock DP installed wrong, so I assumed the false knock was from the mountune IC.

-I switched back to the stock IC thinking I had completely solved the issue, I ran the stock tune (no AP at all) while I waited for the new IC. I couldn’t see any ignition timing during this time so I assumed everything was all good. I ran 87 while on the stock tune.

- before I put the new IC in I filled with 93 but there was a quarter tank of 87 still in there. I paid no mind to this (wrong move).

- I put the woosh IC in and the “false knock” was still there, at my wits end I started messing with the intake and IC clamps a bunch to attempt to solve the issue, as well as the RMM, switching it back to stock and re-greasing the mountune rmm.

- during this session I re clamped and carefully reset the Brillo pad mount. I was still seeing big-ish knock. At this point I was still running the ****ty blend of 93 and 87, unaware that it was causing an issue. I assumed that the false knock remained.

- it was 9 pm and I had to go home, so I drove back to my place from my parents place (where I borrow my dads garage).

- he suggested I re-fill with the octane booster and double check. I was convinced that the pattern and way the motor was knocking was enough to determine it was false knock. (Bad assumption). Again I still had low octane fuel at this time and I was getting frustrated at the -4’s and -5’s I was seeing (global)


- the next day after work I drove 30 mins to a gas station with gt260 at the pump. And filled with 5 gallons of that. There was 2 gallons of the 93-87 mix in the tank still so the combined octane was probably like 97 or similar.


- the knock disappeared. It came back when I got under a quarter tank of fuel but that’s normal behavior from what I’ve seen.


That’s when I knew I had solved it, I still don’t know what the original cause was but I believe it’s fixed at this point.


This wasn’t fun and I hated the whole thing, but the lesson learned is to check for false knock every time you put in a new component. I’m still on the stock DP. I’m planning on doing the turbo in a month or two so I’ll probably re-install the COBB dp then.
 

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What an adventure you had. Im glad that you’ve found it for good hopefully
 
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Discussion Starter #478
If it’s not one thing it’s another lol



Broke the clip on this connector when re-installing my mountune intake.

Got one on order
 

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I hope the turbo install goes better! Winter gas caused -2 to -3 corrections and 2 gallons of E85 really didn’t help me either. That is how bad it can be and winter E85 in NC is E70. I tune 93 in winter but don’t drive the car much and if I have issues I run the stock tune. Then back to E30 in the spring.
 
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