Ford Focus ST Forum banner

1 - 20 of 117 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all,

Decided to throw together a build thread for my car, for fun and archival purposes. The car is not stock, so the build will pick up with the transmission.

Goal:
Make the car as fast as possible, while not sacrificing driveability, reliability, or drawing extra attention to the car. I want the car to put down big numbers, consistently, and reliably. I don't care too much for exterior or appearance mods. I want this car to hook every time, and be well put together. Not looking at doing water or ethanol, as E85 is practically rarer than gold near me, and filling a water tank is extra maintenance that I would like to avoid.

This will be a purely street build as its my daily driver. Perhaps in the future I'll do a few track days or similar, but right now the focus is on street driving.

Car is at 30k miles at the beginning of this thread, will update at 50k 100k etc...

power goal (subject to change of course):
380WHP 380TQ

Current dyno results:
240WHP 350TQ

Planned mods:
  • big turbo
  • built motor (rods and pistons)
  • aux fuel
  • LSD (wavetrac)
  • upgraded synchros (synchrotec)
  • intake (if needed)
  • 3" catback
  • rear sway bar and endlinks
  • tires (when the F1's wear out)
Car currently has the following mods on it as of 3/18/20:
  • 3" catted DP
  • Nick Baldwin's custom DP bracket
  • locally made custom catback exhaust ( 2.5" with one muffler and one res)
  • Mountune MRX intercooler
  • Freektune 93 octane dyno tune
  • NGK Ruthenium plugs gapped to .026"
  • LED light bar
  • Mountune Roll Restrictor
  • TB performance torque gusset
Notes/comments:
The best thing I've done to this car so far was taking the plunge on a fully dyno tune from Freektune, Justin is a really good tuner. I was standing next to the dyno while he worked on the car, he answered all of my questions and explained what he was doing. The old tune was very "unrefined" so to speak, felt rough, and unpredictable at times. Justin's tune is buttery smooth and extremely consistent, every pull feels exactly the same. I love it. Knock count is down a lot from the old tune as well.

3/18/20
Had a pretty bad issue where the car was refusing to run, loping idle when it did run, CEL, and nasty exhaust smell. Pulled codes (P0015 and P0017) and towed it to the dealer, and apparently my exhaust VCT solenoid was stuck. A few manual actuations of the solenoid and some taps from a hammer and the solenoid was freed up and working again. I'll be keeping my eye on this in case it pops up again, I suspect this part will eventually completely fail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
And right into the first update with the transmission:

I bought a 10k mile 6mmt from an online wrecker. Showed up as seen below:

This was $700 shipped

Bought it off eBay, seller swore up and down that it’s a 10k mike trans, ran a carfax on the vin and sure enough the car was wrecked at 10k miles. Score. History on the carfax said the car was wrecked in early 19 and sold to the wrecker a month later. So this trans had been sitting for quite some time and has developed a pretty gnarly coating of corrosion. Working with a local sandblasting shop to have this cleaned off.

Previous owner was also not super nice to the car, see their clutch and flywheel that were included below:

Lots of hot spots, looks like either burnouts or hard launches. I won’t be using these parts on my car but I’ll be holding onto them just in case.

After the trans showed up, I split the case to check for obvious damage and found it all in good shape

There was tons of shavings on the magnet that I would later found out all came from 3rd gear as you’ll see next:



At this point I placed an order for all the parts I need including a new 3rd gear.

  • wavetrac LSD ($1000)
  • diff bearings ($30)
  • measuring shim ($6)
  • synchrotec synchros ($350)
  • replacement secondary shaft bearings (metal cage $50)
  • new 3rd gear (sourced from a UK seller on eBay $70)
  • new slave cylinder ($60)
  • ring gear bolts ($40)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
While I waited for the 3rd gear to show up installed the 5th and 6th gear synchros and the new bearing.

I spilled a whole bunch of trans fluid when I put the unit on the bench...





Rented a bearing separator and puller from autozone and after removing the center bolt the race came right off.

Speaking of the center bolts...
That was a NIGHTMARE to get off. I ended up putting all three spools back in the trans wrapping them tightly with a ratchet strap and having my two (fully grown adult) brothers hold the whole thing while I wailed on it with a breaker bar. Got them out with no casualties but I don’t want to do it again. I don’t have a big enough vice to hold the assembly.

I’m going to pull the 2nd assembly apart tonight and get a better look at 3rd gear...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,081 Posts
While I waited for the 3rd gear to show up installed the 5th and 6th hear synchros and the new bearing.

I spilled a whole bunch of trans fluid when I put the unit on the bench...





Rented a bearing separator and puller from autozone and after removing the center bolt the race came right off.

Speaking of the center bolts...
That was a NIGHTMARE to get off. I ended up putting all three spools back in the trans wrapping them tightly with a ratchet strap and having my two (fully grown adult) brothers hold the whole thing while I wailed on it with a breaker bar. Got them out with no casualties but I don’t want to do it again. I don’t have a big enough vice to hold the assembly.

I’m going to pull the 2ns assembly apart tonight and get a better look at 3rd gear...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lol, yeah the countershaft bolts are a pain. You really want an impact gun for them. I had to carefully apply heat to one, and weld a nut to it to blast it off with a bigger impact than the first one. Them being locktited really keeps them in there as intended.

Yeah that 3rd synchro interface is beat up, you really need to inspect the shift hub for matching damage. They get mauled together, and you may be replacing that as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,861 Posts
A few manual actuations of the solenoid and some taps from a hammer and the solenoid was freed up and working again.
One of my favorite new phrases that I recently learned the proper name of: Percussive Maintenance.

This looks like its going to be a good thread, keep it up! I wish the synchro's were available when my trans was last opened, i really dont want to have to do that job :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Lol, yeah the countershaft bolts are a pain. You really want an impact gun for them. I had to carefully apply heat to one, and weld a nut to it to blast it off with a bigger impact than the first one. Them being locktited really keeps them in there as intended.

Yeah that 3rd synchro interface is beat up, you really need to inspect the shift hub for matching damage. They get mauled together, and you may be replacing that as well.
Well you’re were right, the hub is worn down as well. Also I misspoke, 2nd gear is the one that needs to be replaced and I ordered a 3rd gear. Guess I’ll just throw that in when it shows up

Finding that hub and 2nd gear for anything near a reasonable price is proving difficult unfortunately.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
One of my favorite new phrases that I recently learned the proper name of: Percussive Maintenance.

This looks like its going to be a good thread, keep it up! I wish the synchro's were available when my trans was last opened, i really dont want to have to do that job :)
Haha thanks! Yeah I’m pretty sure it will happen again, they said if it happens again they’d replace the solenoid. So eh no big deal except the hassle
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,081 Posts
Well you’re were right, the hub is worn down as well. Also I misspoke, 2nd gear is the one that needs to be replaced and I ordered a 3rd gear. Guess I’ll just throw that in when it shows up

Finding that hub and 2nd gear for anything near a reasonable price is proving difficult unfortunately.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I hear that, i went through the same stuff. Maybe buy another trans? Then sell off the unused parts? Lol theres no easy or cheap way to get these parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I hear that, i went through the same stuff. Maybe buy another trans? Then sell off the unused parts? Lol theres no easy or cheap way to get these parts.
Yeah honestly I will likely just bite the bullet and buy the gear and the hub, there’s plenty of UK sellers offering them for around $130 US each. It’s still better than the $250 jacks transmissions wants.

1st is a tiny bit worn as well but I’m going to leave that alone, it doesn’t look beat up like 2nd does. 3rd is slightly worn as well, but since I accidentally ordered a 3rd gear instead of a 2nd that will get replaced as well.


In addition
I didn’t know that the stock synchros on 3rd and 4th were carbon lined.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,081 Posts
Yeah honestly I will likely just bite the bullet and buy the gear and the hub, there’s plenty of UK sellers offering them for around $130 US each. It’s still better than the $250 jacks transmissions wants.

1st is a tiny bit worn as well but I’m going to leave that alone, it doesn’t look beat up like 2nd does. 3rd is slightly worn as well, but since I accidentally ordered a 3rd gear instead of a 2nd that will get replaced as well.


In addition
I didn’t know that the stock synchros on 3rd and 4th were carbon lined.
Yes the oem synchros are carbon lined, its the outer toothed part that is the weak link.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Update 3/23/20

Quick update, I’m still waiting on the new gears and selector ring but in the meantime I got the diff preload set.


Those are the old ring gear bolts, just used them to temporarily hold the ring gear on while I wait for my new ones to come in.


I used the 36mm kobalt socket as described in the LSD install guide to hammer the bearings on, I threw the diff in the freezer for a few hours to make it easier.


Another large socket was used to hammer out the axel seals from the inside, worked like a charm.

Always check your measurement shims, my “1.44mm” shim was actually 2mm, almost a 30% error. When I pulled the race out I found that the shim already installed in the case was 1.7mm. Both of the shims I had ended up being too big to use as a measurement shim, neither of them left any slop in the bearings for me to measure.

So I did the next best thing and hammered both races in with no shim and measured the slop like that.

There was 1.5mm of slop with no shims. Add .2mm to that as per spec and we get 1.7mm so I put the stock shim back in place, hammered the bearing races home and called it done.

If it wasn’t clear, I didn’t use the feeler gauge method to check slop. I used a dial indicator.

In addition I pulled the races out of the passenger side case half and replaced them with the new races. It felt unwise to me to replace the cage bearings on the counter shafts and not replace the races.

I still need to devise a method to measure the slop on the countershafts, but that may be for another day.



This case definitely needs to be sand blasted...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Small update tonight, new 2nd gear and 1-2 selector ring came in, threw those on tonight. Waiting for my 3rd gear to show up before I put that last horrible retaining clip on.

More photos

New selector hub and 2nd gear, all the way from the UK because these parts are impossible to get in the USA.



Re-assembled, waiting for 3rd gear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Another small update:
Got the new ring gear bolts installed. Which was damn near impossible. Torquing them to 37 was easy, turning them 90* was not. I don’t have a big vice to hold the diff in. So I used a big piece of webbing and a long piece of wood. to makeshift a huge strap wrench. And hold it by the ring gear

What the consensus on red loctite on these bolts? A lot of guides I’ve seen don’t mention loctiting these, and the bolts on the stock diff didn’t have loctite on them either, but the Ford performance guide asks for red loctite. Either way it probably would have set before I had got them totally torqued down.

I did 37ft lbs and 90* no loctite. I definitely don’t think they’re going to come off any time soon.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
Whenever i set up conventional axles i always use red loctite on the ring gear bolts as well as the lock pin threads. Have yet to do a setup in a FWD transmission but i'd do the same there, personally. I doubt youre goung to have an issue but it's just a precaution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Whenever i set up conventional axles i always use red loctite on the ring gear bolts as well as the lock pin threads. Have yet to do a setup in a FWD transmission but i'd do the same there, personally. I doubt youre goung to have an issue but it's just a precaution.
I figured that would likely be the answer, most of my google searches end up in people saying to use red loctite as well. I really don't want to have to order these bolts again, but that may be my only option.
 
1 - 20 of 117 Posts
Top