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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could use some help with a situation from the mods if they can and the forum. STOA 3 car, because I know it’s been hagged on for a minute. It’s a ‘14, or from someone who purchased one of these.

I’ve been reasonably driving this car, Hiway and city, it always logs codes on the access port for the AC being removed, o2 sensor and cold intake codes if it’s cold outside. I have not yet changed the oil, it’s always level, the engine rev hang is more free than my ‘18, is understood.

Sunday I drove it, washed it and took a photo op for the forum, it went stupid on me, I just thought it was a dead battery even tho it’s new and maintenance solar.

I went to power up with the fob, it was already semi powered with maker lights up, I presented both fobs it only had marker lamps on, push start the dash did nada, then leaving it sit it powered the dash but push the clutch in wouldn’t start.Push the brake killed everything EXCEPT engine started??! I shut it back off, later it restarted normal.

I’ve left it set for 2 nights after normal and hit the start button tonight, it lit off. Logged #2 misfire and #2 within the 1st 1000 rpm codes. Codes cleared on the COBB and dash, readiness check is not picking it up.

I know this engine may be a little wheezy, what should be the expected compression on them % and DAMMIT I should have bundled in a long block that was still for sale! I can hear the pop miss fire on idle, it pulls hard on the metal.

Other than not having AC, the car is so solid, I could use some advice on a better long block to re-power. Heater works great lol!!
 

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Thats a rare car you have.

Compression on a stock motor should be around 160 on all cylinders, but be careful, some compression testers are more accurate than others. I know the harbor freight one likes to read about 20 PSI low. As long as all the cylinders are within 5% of each other its probably fine. It sounds like you're having electrical issues more than others, as a cold air intake shouldn't be throwing a code...

What codes did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’m a dumb a** and didn’t write the exact code #s down before I cleared them, I was a little “tuned” up when I plugged into it. I did a quick look over the engine compartment to see if there was anything obvious, the batt + from the battery to the bus bar has a little corrosion, this may have been the start problem.
The expected codes I get is from the mods done to the car, I’m assuming. Ac compressor code because it’s deleted, coolant cold code always seems to happen when it’s cool outside. It’s got a huge CR radiator, the engine will not come up to op temp when it’s below 50. Also an O2 code, I’m not 100% sure but I think the cat is deleted, I don’t know what they would have done to trick the system, the exhaust always smells fat.
What I was not expecting was the #2 misfire, the code did clear but I could still hear the thud, readiness check on the access port did not pick it up again on #2. I’ll have to drive it and see if that clears up, it may have just fouled a plug. It doesn’t sound like a mechanical miss.
The question about the compression and long block comes from pulling the dip stick with the engine running, sprays oil out the tube.
I’ll have to run it and check some things, what was confusing is the No start and misfire happened after one another.
 

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Sounds like you may also need a new PCV valve and a vented oil cap...
 
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The oil spray from the dipstick hole is normal, it's not meant to be ran with dipstick or oil cap off

Definitely look into the battery cable and the misfire
 

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I'd pull that plug asap. Could be a broken or cracked insulator. You'd want to know right now if thats the case.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'd pull that plug asap. Could be a broken or cracked insulator. You'd want to know right now if thats the case.
Ya, I moved it out of the way and put the car cover on it. I’ll order that cable and pull all the plugs, might as well at least check the compression and change them. I’m guessing the ITV24’s should be ok?
 

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Ya, I moved it out of the way and put the car cover on it. I’ll order that cable and pull all the plugs, might as well at least check the compression and change them. I’m guessing the ITV24’s should be ok?
Im a NGK Ruthenium 1 step colder guy.

.026" gap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I held off on the tune up sauce since I have to work tomorrow, I pulled the #2 plug and it wasn’t fouled. I couldn’t find my handy dandy gap-o-meter but judging by my one eye closed it looks to be greater than 25 more like 30 ish. I was able to shine a flash lite down and see the crown of the piston it’s dry.
I’m going to run compression on it this weekend, the bat+ cable was just surface corrosion on the lead clamp terminal at the battery, the core of the wire into it is clean. I’ll just clean that up, what’s that white wire in there for?

I’m going to replace the plugs anyways, it was suggested the NGK, I used the Denso ITV24 on my 18 focus as suggest from the forums, seems to be ok just an opinion. And the 025 gap is 001 tighter than stock gap, can you guys help me with an explanation of that? If it’s that finite should I index them? The Cobb tunes running on both of my ST’’s is Stratified stock turbo, stock air boxes no fart bangs lol!
 

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The tighter gap is to insure that running more boost while tuned wont "blow out" the spark.
I'd definitely replace those plugs. They're pretty used looking.
 
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Thats so weird to think about. That possibly several members here (past and present) have driven your car.
It was slow to build boost out of the corners, but, still fun.
 
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Not just driven it...beat on it!
I'm torn on how much detail to give, because I don't want to upset the owners of these cars. The STOA instructors all flat-out advised us (the students) to "drive them like you stole them". I drove 3 or 4 different STOA Focus cars, and 3 or 4 different STOA Fiesta cars, and they all had slight differences in how they built boost, but none of them overheated that I saw, and none of them had excessive rattles, alignment issues or anything that would make you think they were in bad condition. They let them idle in between sessions (so those cars were running all day) and we were asked to park them with the e-brakes off so the rear pads didn't melt to the rotors after a session (which is common practice for any track event in any car)).

I drove all of them as hard as I dared (I didn't buy the insurance, which I should have, because they truly let you do whatever you want, outside of passing in corners). Initially, I did bump the limiter several times (not realizing that the car was pretty much done making power over 5600 RPM) but never over-revved on downshifts- but during other people's sessions, a few of us were watching from a few of the corners and witnessed many people mechanically over-revving the cars, incorrectly down-shifting. I guess they can take abuse- because they all kept going, as far as I could tell. I was witness to several OTE's (Off Track Excursions)- one of which resulted in a damaged bumper and fender, but it was superficial and the car continued on. One of the instructors told me that the cars get regularly torn-down and brakes, tires, and damaged body panels were changed on many / most of the cars after each STOA event. Less frequent were major repairs like severe impacts to the front ends, and the resulting frame damage, and damaged radiators (they all used the mountune triple-pass units), radiator supports, head lights, clutches, turbos etc., but those were projects a few times a season. Most people in attendance had never been on a race track before, and some of those people were not all that proficient at driving manual trans cars.

From my vantage point as a participant, a large proportion of attendees were inexperienced, and understandably too scared to go fast enough to get into too much trouble. Then there were people who were inexperienced, but watched too many "Fast and Furious" movies, and were maybe too excited to know that they shouldn't be trying to go "fast" (which were the people who were of most concern to the instructors, as they were aware they might be dangerous). Then there were a few people who had been on a race track before, and knew their limitations, and were aggressive, but afraid of damaging the car / messing up the event for others. Then maybe there was one or two people who raced cars as a hobby, and were comfortable crushed into the seat with the harnesses sufficiently tight. I fit somewhere into the last two types of drivers. I was one of the fastest - but that's not saying much, because most people were new to track racing and were proceeding slow and with relative caution. Because of that- I'd catch cars very quickly, then have to coast behind them, awaiting a passing zone to downshift and get around them. I ended up pitting in, and asked to be put back out as late as possible, so I could play around without lap traffic immediately in front of me.

My impression of these cars from that event is that they are really fun and reliable as track cars.

I hope the folks who own STOA cars are having fun with them. Know that there were a LOT of smiles in those cars.
 

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I waited as much as I could to get in the track trying to get the longest gap between my car and the car on front of me. So I could go full throttle the longest until sadly I catch it. The high altitude of Utah ( compared to where I live) I guess slowed the spooling and created a cooling problem. I was surprised how resilient were the cars. The instructors were talking they had to replace some cars turbos. Tires had to be replaced very often. In looking forward to do the Mustang Driving School, it should be awesome. I drove the #3 and #7 (my favorite) and some Fiestas.
 
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