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I bough the hub that Brian Lovelace recommended over at naviupgrade.com. This has a single USB port on the front facing side, and a second output connector on the underside. I ran another USB cable from this secondary output to my console area (by the passenger side footwell - see photo) and installed a USB socket there and voila! - Dual USB ports in my 2013 and both are Apple Carplay/Android auto functional:

View attachment 383170
That’s cool! I wondered if there was a way to move the USB ports to a location more accessible than the stock location. Thank for the idea.


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Is there any reason that an APIM / Screen with a mfg date from 2019 won't work in a 2014 ST3? I have seen the spreadsheet of part numbers and it doesn't seem to include that new of equipment and mentions there may be incompatibility. Does anybody know what incompatibility may exist? I'm not looking to use the WIFI feature or obviously the remote start / unlock features that the newer cars come with.
 

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Is there any reason that an APIM / Screen with a mfg date from 2019 won't work in a 2014 ST3? I have seen the spreadsheet of part numbers and it doesn't seem to include that new of equipment and mentions there may be incompatibility. Does anybody know what incompatibility may exist? I'm not looking to use the WIFI feature or obviously the remote start / unlock features that the newer cars come with.
Should be no reason at all from what I know. Brian over at www.naviupgrade.com may know best though. In my specific case, all my SYNC3 components came from a 2018 Focus SEL (the ACM too).
 

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Is there any reason that an APIM / Screen with a mfg date from 2019 won't work in a 2014 ST3? I have seen the spreadsheet of part numbers and it doesn't seem to include that new of equipment and mentions there may be incompatibility. Does anybody know what incompatibility may exist? I'm not looking to use the WIFI feature or obviously the remote start / unlock features that the newer cars come with.
The screen itself might be toast Believe it or not hence the scrap if dropped. Long as all is programmed to your vehicle specifics and VIN shouldn’t be an issue
 

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Looks like Sync 3.4 20237 just dropped: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/5U5T-14G381-EH_1604064813000.TAR.GZ

No major changes, just bug fixes. Here's the autoinstall.lst I plan on using, since it's just an app upgrade (no voice or gracenote)


[SYNCGen3.0_3.4.20237_PRODUCT]
Item1 = 5U5T-14G381-EH
Open1 = SyncMyRide\5U5T-14G381-EH_1604064813000.TAR.GZ
Options = Delay,Include,Transaction


My non-nav system reports MEM_ERR03 as always, but my nav system upgraded no problem. At this point I've concluded non-nav systems with 3.4 will need the Cyanlabs reformat every time.
 

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Isn’t Sync 3 up to v3.10?
Plus if I recall 3.4 changes the buttons to a blue and not the white how it is in 3.2, right?

Looks like Sync 3.4 20237 just dropped: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/5U5T-14G381-EH_1604064813000.TAR.GZ

No major changes, just bug fixes. Here's the autoinstall.lst I plan on using, since it's just an app upgrade (no voice or gracenote)


[SYNCGen3.0_3.4.20237_PRODUCT]
Item1 = 5U5T-14G381-EH
Open1 = SyncMyRide\5U5T-14G381-EH_1604064813000.TAR.GZ
Options = Delay,Include,Transaction


My non-nav system reports MEM_ERR03 as always, but my nav system upgraded no problem. At this point I've concluded non-nav systems with 3.4 will need the Cyanlabs reformat every time.
 

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If you go the Cyanlabs route you can upgrade your Sync to the very latest (2020) 3.4 build 20237. Stock I think they stop at 3.10.
 

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Working Sync 2 to Sync 3 upgrade

Alright guys, so this won't be anywhere near a full-featured guide as I didn't plan ahead to take pictures, but I have a fully working Sync 3 installed in my 2015 ST2. This should provide inspiration for anyone else interesting in Android Auto/Carplay/Higher quality HU.

Everything is working: steering wheel control, mic, camera, Bluetooth, WiFi, etc. Since there's not much else out about doing this, I make no guarantees... YMMV, esp other years such as 13 and 14 or non MFT setups since I have no idea if those will work (plus non MFT will need more parts like the center console cover plus probably a wiring harness at minimum).
At the core you need only 2 things, the screen and the APIM, but I recommend getting a fakra gps as well. I sourced my screen and APIM out of a 2017 Ford Escape, but other models will likely be compatible. I had been trying to wait and find a wrecked Focus but found a good deal, ended up getting both the screen and the APIM for 250 shipped.

Sync 3 does change how GPS works, moving to a fakra gps setup. I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006AKVX2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but others should work. This is only necessary if you have navigation, or would like the compass to work, supposedly it does work without.

So to start things off, disconnect battery so we don't damage anything.

Once that is done, the center console needs to be removed.

The above video outlines the process including screen and APIM removal. The video makes it look easy, but you have to pull very hard to get the panel to pop out. On the 15 there is a wire connector right behind the hazard button as well, that is fairly hard to remove as the cable is pretty short.

The screen can be removed from the dash at this point, there should be 4 torx screws holding it in place, remove all 4. The screen plus APIM are attached to eachother, and can be pulled out at this time. you may need to press up on the sun-shield part of the dash to fit it. There should be 2 connections to remove, one has a latch that you pull out, the other a clip. Both also are shown in that video.

If you got your parts from another Focus, you likely can just install the new setup. Since mine came from an Escape, the bracket needed to be removed. These have 4 very small torx bolts holding them in. I apologize, but I don't know the size, the tool I used was not labelled, I was just happy I had the right size.

From here, you can attach your cables to the new APIM. There is an extra connector on the back of a Sync 3 module, I'm not sure what it's for as I'm not using it, but everything is working. If you picked it up, you'll want to connect your new GPS module as well. There is a lot of empty flat space behind the APIM that you can stick it, I used double sided tape to place it behind.

Re-installation is just the reverse of what you've done. It's a fairly easy process to tear apart and put back together.

Once installed, Sync 3 was working immediately. There were some issues, backup camera did not work, the sd card slot does not work, and I would receive an occasional error about the usb hub not supported(I can hit ok and it continues and works fine), and it of course was listed as a Ford Escape in Bluetooth, but most things worked as mentioned. Steering controls, Android Auto, Voice, usb, etc. This is 90% there as plug and play.

I wanted to try flashing my car based on a 16 or 17, so I found a VIN that matched my options, and used https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt to generate an as-built file from that car's VIN. *Note: You will need to fill out country and language, then return to that link. It takes you to the homepage after setting options for some reason.

Edit: per pro510 in post 58, you can use your existing VIN. This is especially helpful for 2013s as it appears to get steering controls to work. Still use the motorcraft site to get you asbuilt config, but don't sorry about finding a similar 16+.

Once you've input a VIN, you can download a .ab file, which contains all of that car's configuration data, hence why you want to find an exact match to piggy-back off of.


WARNING***
You are modifying your cars configuration/programming if you do this next part. It will likely be fine, and you should be able to revert if something is wrong, but you have been warned. I will not and cannot help you, and Ford will not help you with this if something goes wrong. Do at your own risk.

With that said, as long as you've picked similar to exactly the same configuration you will likely be fine. You should also take the time to download your car's original as-built file from the motorcraft site using your personal VIN, that way if needed you can revert quickly and easier.

You will need to download Forscan Download FORScan
I did this with Windows, I have no idea if other platforms work with this.

You will also need an extended license for Forscan. This is free currently, but requires registration. FORScan forum ? Login

Finally, you will need an OBD diagnostic tool similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Diagnostic-ELM327-Bluetooth-Interface/dp/B00EQ57BE8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1490921004&sr=8-6&keywords=bluetooth obd elm

Follow the instructions on this page to configure Forscan to allow programming, including downloading the SBL files FORScan forum ? View topic - How to program Central Configuration using FORScan
We are going to do the load shown in step 4 of that post, and you'll use the file you downloaded from the motorcraft page. Once you've selected the file, write it to the car, it goes rather quickly.
Edit: you more than likely could limit to only writing to the APIM. I didn't attempt this, but it may be better than the kill and fill i more or less used

And congrats! If it worked as mine did, you now have a fully operational Sync 3 setup. Edit: forgot about usb. You still occasionally get the error I mentioned above, but it still works. Supposedly getting the new usb hub for Apple Carplay solves this. I have this part on order and will update accordingly.

If you have questions, I'll do my best to answer anything. I'm not opening my dash back up, but I can post pictures as requested.

I've added a few pictures including the error about the USB hub.

Update 4/15/17:
Sorry for being late on posting this, week ended up being much busier than I expected.
I've now got Apple Carplay working, along with the new USB hub. This also solves the error about a non compatible USB hub being attached. It is not difficult.
This time I did take pictures (albeit not the greatest).

Parts needed are the wire assembly, P/N WPT1239 and the new USB hub HU5Z-19A387-A.

So 15+ has a very simple way to access the hub. I believe 13 and 14 are different, though it wouldn't be too terrible to do from in the center console. Inside the center console on 15+ there are two flaps on the backside, pry those open (they're hinged on the top) with a trim tool/screwdriver/whatever you can fit between). There are two torx screws (think T25 if I remember right), unscrew and set aside.
View attachment 231097

View attachment 231105

The back side pries loose. Sit in the back seats and pull from the little cubby outwards, and then it should slide up and off. This gives you full access to the wiring, along with an easy way to pop out the USB hub.

Once that's done, we need to add in the new harness and the new hub. Technically the proper way would be to solder, but I didn't know where my soldering iron was, so I went with quick splice connectors. We are only using the outside wires on the WPT1239, with the 1 closest to the clip side being #4 and the one furthest #1. We need to connect #4 to the brown/white wire and #1 connected to the purple/grey wire. 2 and 3 can be taped off and ignored, we don't need those. Once wired up then push the old hub out, plug the new in (2 mini-usb and the new power connector) and you are all set.
View attachment 231113 View attachment 231121
I've updated to Sync 2.2 manually, and was able to use Carplay with my wife's phone with no issues!
Added bonus is the USB port is now illuminated which is nice to have.

Edit: just realized there's no aux on my new hub. I never used it, so I didn't care, but something else to keep in mind. I don't believe SYNC 3 has an option for aux in either, but I'd have to go back and look.

***
I no longer have my Focus, sold it for a Colorado but I'll try to keep this updated with relevant info other users find with installs when I can .
[/QUOT
 

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Hi everyone I have a 2015 ford focus ST I had the sync 2 I did the sync 3 upgrade and everything is working just the Nav and time and my center console lights for the volume and the source where the cd Gose are not working it's driving me crazy can anyone help me with this I would really appreciate it thanks
 

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Let me now when you find how to get the lights to work and I can't get my clock to keep the time any information would be amazing
 

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That would be amazing will my clock doesn't keep the time and my nav says navigation fail
With SYNC3, the clock master has to be the APIM (not the IPC) - again this is a Forscan as built tweak.
Regarding Nav, I assume your APIM actually supports Nav - and also you plugged in a GPS antenna?
 

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OK - for the Sony Control panel backlighting, check the Ambient Lighting settings in the BCM Central Config via Forscan. For me, setting this to "monochrome" turned on the backlighting in the Sony radio control panel.
 

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For this as-built code line in the APIM, what are the two digits "XX" currently set to for your APIM??

7D0-01-01: ##XX-####-####
 

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For this as-built code line in the APIM, what are the two digits "XX" currently set to for your APIM??

7D0-01-01: ##XX-####-####
Hi I'm going to look at that will give you an update when I do thanks for the help
For this as-built code line in the APIM, what are the two digits "XX" currently set to for your APIM??

7D0-01-01: ##XX-####-####
The XX number is 28
 

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OK - for the Sony Control panel backlighting, check the Ambient Lighting settings in the BCM Central Config via Forscan. For me, setting this to "monochrome" turned on the backlighting in the Sony radio control panel.
So I did this go into the BCM and did what you sed and there still off so should I play around there to see
 

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So I did this go into the BCM and did what you sed and there still off so should I play around there to see
What was it set to before? Note also that you have to write the new value to make it stick and then turn the car off and on.
 

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Hi I'm going to look at that will give you an update when I do thanks for the help
The XX number is 28
OK - try another as-built tweak and change this value to 24 and see if the clock starts updating.
 
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