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I just did my 2 to 3 upgrade yesterday evening. It was so quick and easy! I got my stuff from flvpmods.com for right around 8 Bens, and I couldn't be happier. The APIM and screen look brand new, and the APIM hardware is version 3! It's such a dramatic improvement over sync 2, and if you're even considering the upgrade, I can say that you won't be sorry. Android Auto, a really clean and fast UI, no more waiting forever for Sync 3 to index music and build voice commands. Sync 3 is making my car great again! Haha!

View attachment 359375
Yes you can. ST1 is more involved, but it has been done.

Yes getting a '16 is easier. But it's not a huge deal IMO. Here's why.

  1. ST1, you can actually replace your headunit with an aftermarket unit. The possibilities are endless.
  2. ST2 headunits, you can get by with bluetooth streaming and add in a rockford DSR1 or similar device to add in an aftermarket amp and speakers.
  3. Or do that and a near plug and play Sync3 swap.
i have a question to your point 1. I found this: but appears it have to plug into the obd2 port full time? Anyone here or yourself familiar with this set up in an st1 and trying retrain or upgrade the USB port so CarPlay works?

 

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i have a question to your point 1. I found this: but appears it have to plug into the obd2 port full time? Anyone here or yourself familiar with this set up in an st1 and trying retrain or upgrade the USB port so CarPlay works?

I’m not sure if you’re just wanting/needing CarPlay and Sync 3 but I’m going with an Android stereo. 9in screen, 64gb storage, 4gb ram, watch videos while driving, wireless CarPlay plus so soo much more!! It’s all plug and play and doesn’t matter if you’re ST1 or ST2 package....plus much cheaper than a Sync 3 upgrade and works with your USB port while giving you more.

US $259.00 | 9'' Android 10.0 for Ford Focus 3 Mk 3 2011-2018 Car Multimedia Player Radio Stereo GPS Navigation Head Unit Carplay DSP BT
 

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I just completed the hardware upgrade (Sync v3.4 without navigation) in my ‘13 ST (ST3) and could really use some help with the programming. I have the extended license for Forscan, along with a wired USB ELM327 adapter with MS/HS switch. I’m able to read all HS and MS modules, so all appears to be good there. But I’m getting hung up in the programming. I’ve tried using the free upgrade files from naviupgrade.com, but can’t get them to load to the APIM module (pics attached).

I’m a relative newbie to Forscan, and would really appreciate some pointers on how to most easily complete the required programming. I think with ‘13-‘14’s it’s more difficult since we have the different steering wheel buttons vs the mk3.5 ST, so it’s not possible to just use the as built-files from a mk3.5 ST with Sync 3 to update my mk3 ST and retain the full steering wheel functionality. I’m sure I’m missing something really obvious and would appreciate any pointers.
 

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I just completed the hardware upgrade (Sync v3.4 without navigation) in my ‘13 ST (ST3) and could really use some help with the programming. I have the extended license for Forscan, along with a wired USB ELM327 adapter with MS/HS switch. I’m able to read all HS and MS modules, so all appears to be good there. But I’m getting hung up in the programming. I’ve tried using the free upgrade files from naviupgrade.com, but can’t get them to load to the APIM module (pics attached).

I’m a relative newbie to Forscan, and would really appreciate some pointers on how to most easily complete the required programming. I think with ‘13-‘14’s it’s more difficult since we have the different steering wheel buttons vs the mk3.5 ST, so it’s not possible to just use the as built-files from a mk3.5 ST with Sync 3 to update my mk3 ST and retain the full steering wheel functionality. I’m sure I’m missing something really obvious and would appreciate any pointers.
That’s a bummer. That’s why the APIM’s I get for people are VIN programmed and all with navigation!
 

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That’s a bummer. That’s why the APIM’s I get for people are VIN programmed and all with navigation!
That’s a great way to go but tends to be more pricey than what I paid, plus I have no need for navigation since I’ve used the Sync 2 navigation exactly 2 times in the years that I’ve owned my ST. I figured the programming would be easy enough since so many people with ‘13s-‘14s have said they’ve done the swap. I’m sure it’s just me missing some easy step, so hopefully someone chimes in soon with some input.
 

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I just completed the hardware upgrade (Sync v3.4 without navigation) in my ‘13 ST (ST3) and could really use some help with the programming. I have the extended license for Forscan, along with a wired USB ELM327 adapter with MS/HS switch. I’m able to read all HS and MS modules, so all appears to be good there. But I’m getting hung up in the programming. I’ve tried using the free upgrade files from naviupgrade.com, but can’t get them to load to the APIM module (pics attached).

I’m a relative newbie to Forscan, and would really appreciate some pointers on how to most easily complete the required programming. I think with ‘13-‘14’s it’s more difficult since we have the different steering wheel buttons vs the mk3.5 ST, so it’s not possible to just use the as built-files from a mk3.5 ST with Sync 3 to update my mk3 ST and retain the full steering wheel functionality. I’m sure I’m missing something really obvious and would appreciate any pointers.
I just completed the hardware upgrade (Sync v3.4 without navigation) in my ‘13 ST (ST3) and could really use some help with the programming. I have the extended license for Forscan, along with a wired USB ELM327 adapter with MS/HS switch. I’m able to read all HS and MS modules, so all appears to be good there. But I’m getting hung up in the programming. I’ve tried using the free upgrade files from naviupgrade.com, but can’t get them to load to the APIM module (pics attached).

I’m a relative newbie to Forscan, and would really appreciate some pointers on how to most easily complete the required programming. I think with ‘13-‘14’s it’s more difficult since we have the different steering wheel buttons vs the mk3.5 ST, so it’s not possible to just use the as built-files from a mk3.5 ST with Sync 3 to update my mk3 ST and retain the full steering wheel functionality. I’m sure I’m missing something really obvious and would appreciate any pointers.
Get your (Mk3, not 3.5) VIN from asbuilt here


Use that for programming your new APIM, manually disable the nav button, and you're set.

This is exactly what I did for my 2014.
 
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Anyone know if I can replace the Sync2 Nav system from my 2015 ST2 with an aftermarket double din screen?? Like Kenwood or Pioneer??


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Anyone know if I can replace the Sync2 Nav system from my 2015 ST2 with an aftermarket double din screen?? Like Kenwood or Pioneer??


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The best you can do from my research is to add aftermarket Amps with Pac-Audio AP4-FD21 believe is the model. You’ll have to stick with sync 2 or can pull off a sync 3 swap. You’re trim is all proprietary and the factory head unit and Amps have to stay installed. Maybe somebody else will chime in. But this was the very reason I got rid of a sync 2 ST2 2014 model and then purposely sought a face lift ST1 moonroof’d . To 4 inch to sync 3 head unit and complete control of my audio system from there.

Even if it’s possible with the Maestro interface that thing stinks. None of the videos or comments state there’s an interface that has to be plugged into the obd2 port full time for sync and other stuff to work with an aftermarket head unit. Once I saw I all that I decided to go sync 3 Nav swap on headinit. Only thing I want to see plugged into my obd is my AP. They have a obd2 splitter I’ve seen online but that’s too many wires hanging around my knees for me. I’ll stick with the sync 3 head unit myself , the aftermarket is too many variables to retain sync and factory functions
 

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The best you can do from my research is to add aftermarket Amps with Pac-Audio AP4-FD21 believe is the model. You’ll have to stick with sync 2 or can pull off a sync 3 swap. You’re trim is all proprietary and the factory head unit and Amps have to stay installed. Maybe somebody else will chime in. But this was the very reason I got rid of a sync 2 ST2 2014 model and then purposely sought a face lift ST1 moonroof’d . To 4 inch to sync 3 head unit and complete control of my audio system from there.

Even if it’s possible with the Maestro interface that thing stinks. None of the videos or comments state there’s an interface that has to be plugged into the obd2 port full time for sync and other stuff to work with an aftermarket head unit. Once I saw I all that I decided to go sync 3 Nav swap on headinit. Only thing I want to see plugged into my obd is my AP. They have a obd2 splitter I’ve seen online but that’s too many wires hanging around my knees for me. I’ll stick with the sync 3 head unit myself , the aftermarket is too many variables to retain sync and factory functions
Yeah that really sucks. Maybe I’m stuck with this crap box. I did a lot of research last night and stumbled across an update for the Maestro interface that looks like it now works for models that have the OEM screen (both Sony and regular). I’ve heard the OBD port is only needed to show the gauges on the double din screen, which is all I use it for right now unless I’m switching tunes or something.

I’m on the hunt for some more info on it, I would love to get rid of Sync2, it’s the biggest drawback of my car at the moment.


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Yeah that really sucks. Maybe I’m stuck with this crap box. I did a lot of research last night and stumbled across an update for the Maestro interface that looks like it now works for models that have the OEM screen (both Sony and regular). I’ve heard the OBD port is only needed to show the gauges on the double din screen, which is all I use it for right now unless I’m switching tunes or something.

I’m on the hunt for some more info on it, I would love to get rid of Sync2, it’s the biggest drawback of my car at the moment.


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Just got a sync 3 navi upgrade and use a line up and amp your speakers ? Everything Radio wise is pretty much same across the board. Apply and android car play. Maybe the rca pre outs frequency but other than that not much if different from aftermarket to oem head units

I’m pulling off a sync 3 navigational swap in two cars for $850 ish total both cars
 

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Just got a sync 3 navi upgrade and use a line up and amp your speakers ? Everything Radio wise is pretty much same across the board. Apply and android car play. Maybe the rca pre outs frequency but other than that not much if different from aftermarket to oem head units
I’m not looking to upgrade my speaker components. Lots of people complain about the ST stereo system but I must have got the only known ST with a stock system that Slaps! lol. My speakers are great. Bass is loud and full, speakers are clear, clean and also loud.

I just hate the Sync2 system and want Apple CarPlay. Sync3 upgrade sounds complicated and I don’t want to do it myself. I’ve ruined too many dashboards taking them apart to install new head units. If I can find a pro who can do a Sync3 upgrade in Southern California I’m down.


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I’m not looking to upgrade my speaker components. Lots of people complain about the ST stereo system but I must have got the only known ST with a stock system that Slaps! lol. My speakers are great. Bass is loud and full, speakers are clear, clean and also loud.

I just hate the Sync2 system and want Apple CarPlay. Sync3 upgrade sounds complicated and I don’t want to do it myself. I’ve ruined too many dashboards taking them apart to install new head units. If I can find a pro who can do a Sync3 upgrade in Southern California I’m down.


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Don’t let somebody hustle you with this swap. I was going to do this as the last mod cause Of the initial sticker shock!! Trust me on this you can pull this off for stupid cheap and DIY.

all you’ll need is
1. a sync 3 from year 2016+
2. your usb power jumper adapter
3. HU5Z-19A387-A USB hub (for car play)

you already have the Sony bezel and the radio mounting bracket from the sync 2

get APIM VIN programmed
You can also update it sync 3.4 2020 build
You’re more plug and play then a 4” ST1 swap.

you can pull this off. 😊
 

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FYI: new Sync 3.4 build (20196). You can find the binaries here:

http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/5U5T-14G381-EG_1598634070000.TAR.GZ
http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/5U5T-14G391-DM_1598636566000.TAR.GZ
http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/1U5T-14G658-AF_1598633324000.TAR.GZ

Below is the autoinstall.lst I'm going to try here on my Nav unit. I'll reply back with results shortly.
Fingers crossed my non-nav will accept this one. 20136 refused to install because of memory issues.
There are no changelogs with these updates, so it's always a mystery what was fixed. Hopefully the USB bug is squashed.

; SYNC3 - Release - Only for Nav

[SYNCGen3.0_3.4.20196_PRODUCT]
Item1 = 5U5T-14G381-EG
Open1 = SyncMyRide\5U5T-14G381-EG_1598634070000.TAR.GZ
Item2 = 5U5T-14G391-DM
Open2 = SyncMyRide\5U5T-14G391-DM_1598636566000.TAR.GZ
Item3 = 1U5T-14G658-AF
Open3 = SyncMyRide\1U5T-14G658-AF_1598633324000.TAR.GZ
Options = Delay,Include,Transaction
 

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Sorry if this is a stupid question. I have a 2014 ST3 and am a bit confused about the USB media hub replacement. Am I stuck with the single port adapter HU5Z-19A387-A USB, or will the dual port ones like HC3Z-19A387-B work if I purchase an adapter like this: GC3Z-19C149-A? The pictures of the parts on Amazon make it appear that the connectors on the back aren't the same, so I'm just wondering if there are other options besides the single port for a Focus ST.
 

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Sorry if this is a stupid question. I have a 2014 ST3 and am a bit confused about the USB media hub replacement. Am I stuck with the single port adapter HU5Z-19A387-A USB, or will the dual port ones like HC3Z-19A387-B work if I purchase an adapter like this: GC3Z-19C149-A? The pictures of the parts on Amazon make it appear that the connectors on the back aren't the same, so I'm just wondering if there are other options besides the single port for a Focus ST.
I bough the hub that Brian Lovelace recommended over at naviupgrade.com. This has a single USB port on the front facing side, and a second output connector on the underside. I ran another USB cable from this secondary output to my console area (by the passenger side footwell - see photo) and installed a USB socket there and voila! - Dual USB ports in my 2013 and both are Apple Carplay/Android auto functional:

383170
 
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