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I just did my 2 to 3 upgrade yesterday evening. It was so quick and easy! I got my stuff from flvpmods.com for right around 8 Bens, and I couldn't be happier. The APIM and screen look brand new, and the APIM hardware is version 3! It's such a dramatic improvement over sync 2, and if you're even considering the upgrade, I can say that you won't be sorry. Android Auto, a really clean and fast UI, no more waiting forever for Sync 3 to index music and build voice commands. Sync 3 is making my car great again! Haha!

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Has anyone figured out if its possible to upgrade to sync 3 on a 13-14? Havent bought an ST yet but trying to figure out if it's worth the extra money to just get a 16 or newer
 

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Has anyone figured out if its possible to upgrade to sync 3 on a 13-14? Havent bought an ST yet but trying to figure out if it's worth the extra money to just get a 16 or newer
Yes you can. ST1 is more involved, but it has been done.

Yes getting a '16 is easier. But it's not a huge deal IMO. Here's why.

  1. ST1, you can actually replace your headunit with an aftermarket unit. The possibilities are endless.
  2. ST2 headunits, you can get by with bluetooth streaming and add in a rockford DSR1 or similar device to add in an aftermarket amp and speakers.
  3. Or do that and a near plug and play Sync3 swap.
 

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Pieced it together off eBay. Actually bought a whole MFT junk pull out with radio bezel, switch, bracket, screen apim etc

Then sourced a sync 3 screen and apim, swiped the screen brackets from the mft to the sync 3

Harness I got from Brian

Coding done with ForScan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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What are the proper part number for the screen and APIM, also my '14 doesn't have nav, so if i could get a recommendation on a good gps antenna that would be helpful as well.
 

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Add me to the list of people that successfully performed this upgrade to my 2013 FoST. My donor SYNC 3 screen + APIM is a nav-equipped unit from an 18 Escape Titanium. This job is extraordinarily simple. The center of the pre-facelift dashboard is silly easy to disassemble - I got the screen/APIM out in less than 10 minutes. The USB hub was the most challenging part. I can confirm on 13 models that you want to take off the back of the center console to access the two plugs beneath the stock hub, and the USB cable is a bit of a pain to squeeze out.

I bought the FAKRA antenna referenced earlier in this thread on Amazon and it works perfectly. I had some double-sided mirror-mounting adhesive foam laying around, and this proved to be perfect for the antenna, which is magnetic and didn't come with double-sided adhesive. I ended up sticking it to the flat piece of plastic under the dash, directly under the spot between the boost gauge cluster and the IPC. No signal issues whatsoever.

Programming was easy. I opted to load my old APIM values from my stock SYNC 2 system only into the first two blocks of the new APIM, as suggested in this thread. I'll note that this actually removed nav. I decided to write each hex value change one by one and it turned out to be one number that was swapped. It was something like 2 was nav for me, non-nav for the escape, confirming what was noted earlier in this thread. This was the only hiccup, as every other hex value from my old APIM loaded into the first two blocks of the new one yielded a factory-feel. All of my steering wheel buttons work, notably the lower-right set of buttons that's exclusive to the 2013 models. The "1 star" and "2 star" buttons even do something - 1 takes you to the "overview" screen, and 2 loads up the settings menu. Really slick. My old APIM values also brought back climate controls to the home screen. Redundant, but nice nonetheless.

The only other APIM change I made was to modify the last two numbers before the checksum digits in the 7D0-04-01 block (i.e. xxxx xxxx YYxx). This controls what model name is broadcast by the APIM during bluetooth pairing. It was set to 08 for "Ford Escape." Changing it to 02 now lets my phone see "Ford Focus" for BT pairing instead. Feels like it rolled out of the factory this way now. Damn I love massive part sharing and modular design!

Using the Escape's actual VIN, I was able to update the software to the latest 3.0 build (even though it was a late 2018, it still missed the cutoff for 3.2 -> 3.4. Not losing sleep over this one). Plus, I got a free nav update - the 'latest' being Q1 2018 maps. So the new maps are already 2 years old. Might be sticking to CarPlay for up-to-date maps...

I'm head over heels in love with CarPlay, but believe it or not I find myself gravitating toward Sync 3 more and more as I use it and get lazier about plugging in my phone for CarPlay. In my opinion, Sync 3 is light years ahead of Sync 2/MFT. It's snappy, simple, intuitive, and attractive. I think most people do this for CarPlay/Android Auto, but Sync 3 itself might be the hidden gem of this whole upgrade.

Thanks for the fabulous information in this thread.
 

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nicely done...i was fine with sync 2, until we bought a new F150 with sync 3 ?
 

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Awesome, this should help a ton. Once I actually get around to it I’ll let you know if I have any questions. And I work at Ford so I definitely know all too well how substantial Sync 3 is over Sync 2. Sucks working with Sync 3 all day then getting back in my car with S2 lol.


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I just did my 2 to 3 upgrade yesterday evening. It was so quick and easy! I got my stuff from flvpmods.com for right around 8 Bens, and I couldn't be happier. The APIM and screen look brand new, and the APIM hardware is version 3! It's such a dramatic improvement over sync 2, and if you're even considering the upgrade, I can say that you won't be sorry. Android Auto, a really clean and fast UI, no more waiting forever for Sync 3 to index music and build voice commands. Sync 3 is making my car great again! Haha!

View attachment 359375
Thanks for info! Great price, just ordered my Sync2 - 3 kit.
 

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Hey guys. Didn’t know where to ask this but this seems the most appropriate place. Do you guys think that you’ll upgrade to sync 4 when it becomes available. I know we don’t know how it will work, but would anyone be interested in trying it.
 

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Hey guys. Didn’t know where to ask this but this seems the most appropriate place. Do you guys think that you’ll upgrade to sync 4 when it becomes available. I know we don’t know how it will work, but would anyone be interested in trying it.
Sync 4 is a completely different system than Sync 2 and 3, it would be a complete overhaul to retrofit it in our cars, if it’s even possible at all. The first car getting it is the Mustang Mach E, and as you can see it’s entirely different, so Sync 3.4 is pretty much the cutoff for our cars.
 

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This may be a silly question, but has anyone had any rattle issues after doing this upgrade? After taking off the center trim for this job, there's a rattle that I cannot seem to pinpoint coming from somewhere around the CD player or vents.

Any tips on how to quite down this plastic? Somewhere to fill with RTV? Somewhere to stick some weatherstripping?
 

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This may be a silly question, but has anyone had any rattle issues after doing this upgrade? After taking off the center trim for this job, there's a rattle that I cannot seem to pinpoint coming from somewhere around the CD player or vents.

Any tips on how to quite down this plastic? Somewhere to fill with RTV? Somewhere to stick some weatherstripping?
Just did mine, no new rattle here.

Did you tighten down the bracket screws on the screen/APIM enough? They were brutally tight on mine, and had locktite from the factory, I'd start there as the rest of it is pretty much all rubber isolated so it shouldn't make much noise.
 

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I’m looking at purchasing a 2016 ST1. Ive looked a

Kenwood DNR876S 7"
KIT-FOC1 Dash kit for Ford Focus ADS-MRR Antenna Adapter

I’m also reading that even with all this the usb on the dash and in the armrest will only charge. Does any one know if a car play 3 usb swap and some kind of adapter harness will allow aftermarket head units to recognize it like oem.

will just connect to the ford kit or the MRR



plus this

 

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Also found these so I’d assume if the hub is powered and the usb cables on the back snap in. That interface from my understanding keep all factory except the ability to stream music on usb hub because the head units is apply car play and old usb still present.




Any one with a ST1 please chime on. I finally found a ST1 with moonroof . Had a 2014 ST2 worse sound system ever
 

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Just did mine, no new rattle here.

Did you tighten down the bracket screws on the screen/APIM enough? They were brutally tight on mine, and had locktite from the factory, I'd start there as the rest of it is pretty much all rubber isolated so it shouldn't make much noise.
I thought of that, as I, too struggled with how tight those little T8 screws holding the screen/APIM were. However, the rattle is very clearly coming from far south of the screen. Somewhere around the CD player/Hazard button region.
 
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