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To nav or not to nav? There are a lot more non-nav systems on ebay and the like to buy from; and am wondering if I should wait for a nav enabled one?

Main thing is that I don't want to be in a situation where my phone is slow to acquire a GPS lock, or there is a lack of LTE and only "4G," connectivity and I can't route out of where I am. Which happens more than you'd think based on my work and travel locale's.
 

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Unlike the MFT system, if you don't get one with nav, you can't activate it later. The APIM for Sync 3 without nav has less storage space built in than the ones with nav.
 

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if you use android auto/apple carplay then NAV does not matter. it still works without it. if you're worried about being in a no-signal area then i'd wait to find a nav version.
 

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Hi i upgraded my 2013 taurus sel to sync 3 just about everything works except no volume wheel on screen even tho the volume works wont read text messages and no car ringtones and no sound from google gps but voice works.iheard you say using as built of your own car best solution or can i use one i found with all my features from 2016 sel.what would you suggest.
you need to write your as-built .ab file to your new APIM. should work after that.
 

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FYI here are some APIM code changes i stole from different ford forums for sync 3 swaps. FYI i had to write these changes twice for them to stick. the ST boot splash is awesome, highly recommend:

All Changes are made in APIM (As-Built) - (unless otherwise specified)
Visual Theme Variants:
7D0-03-01: xxxx 00xx xxxx - Ford Classic (Blue Theme, Multi-colored Buttons/Knobs)
7D0-03-01: xxxx 01xx xxxx - Ford Timeless (Blue Theme, Blue Buttons/Knobs) ****this one is what is on the 2016 ST's, per my friend****
7D0-03-01: xxxx 04xx xxxx - Ford GT (All Blue Theme for 2017 Ford GT)


Splash Screen Variants (2.0+ Software Required):
7D0-02-01: xxxx 01xx xxxx - Ford / Lincoln (Default)
7D0-02-01: xxxx 05xx xxxx - Raptor (Ford Performance)
7D0-02-01: xxxx 08xx xxxx - Vignale
7D0-02-01: xxxx 09xx xxxx - Shelby Mustang R1 (Ford Performance)
7D0-02-01: xxxx 0Axx xxxx - Ford (Default) - Use if you want Ford Splash with Lincoln Theme
7D0-02-01: xxxx 0Bxx xxxx - ST (Ford Performance) - Sport Technology
7D0-02-01: xxxx 0Cxx xxxx - RS (Ford Performance) - Rallye Sport
7D0-02-01: xxxx 0Dxx xxxx - GT (Ford Performance) - Grand Touring
 

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Just wanted to give everyone a heads up. Ford has released an update for SYNC3 navigation, but it has to be ordered by VIN, and is locked to that vehicle, so it looks like upgrading to SYNC3 with nav from MFT may be a moot point unless someone can figure out how to unlock the files on the flash drive Ford sends the update on.
 

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Just wanted to give everyone a heads up. Ford has released an update for SYNC3 navigation, but it has to be ordered by VIN, and is locked to that vehicle, so it looks like upgrading to SYNC3 with nav from MFT may be a moot point unless someone can figure out how to unlock the files on the flash drive Ford sends the update on.
So would this mean we just can't get the new update? Or if we end up with an APIM that has the update, is the APIM unusable? I've got a 2013 ST2 and I'm starting to look around to get the parts for this swap.
 

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I should be getting all the parts to do the upgrade on my 2013 ST2, can someone clarify what is the situation with the software update?

All you need is to get a VIN from the source car you got the APIM from and then upgrade it. I was then going to use ForScan to fix the other settings like logo and volume controls on the wheel.
 

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Okay Im having a hard time finding a Sync 3 Nav

I've got a 2013 Focus ST2 and looking to get Sync 3 - checking on Car-parts & LKQ i've only found one I think even works. Could someone lend a hand? Ideally from the US for quick shipping.

Would a 2016 f150 sync 3 work?
Thanks a bunch
 

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So I managed to find a SYNC 3 system with Nav, but my car is just an ST1 with the standard 4" screen. I've also managed to find a bezel that I can use, but I'm coming up short on the mount for the SYNC 3 screen itself. I know it's possible to do this configuration, it's just going to take some time to figure out. Does anybody know where I might be able to find just the mount for the screen? Thanks so much!

Capture.JPG

My buddy converted his 4" screen to the Ford Sync 3 module in his Mustang so I'm sure it's possible. Does anybody know if the wiring harness for the stereo/head unit are the same for the Focus ST and Mustang GT?

Thanks so much!
 

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I have not posted about this outside of this thread. If you get the sync 3 module I would be happy to send over my as built file which you could just load up using forscan.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Figured I should chime into this thread. I just sourced parts this month and performed this upgrade this week on a 2013 ST3 (still need to replace the USB hub, more on that in a moment).

I found an APIM w/ Navigation off a 2017 Ford Explorer (Already had 2.2 installed, score!) found a Sync 3 screen with the standard screen mount, and grabbed a GPS antenna from Amazon. Installation was pretty straight forward, this thread and a few others found on the internet helped a lot. The APIM I purchased definitely needed recoding for my vehicle, it was throwing errors on DTC. I had to factor what values enabled the ST splash screen and Navigation. Interesting note, but not surprising, the MFT values differ greatly in a couple of sections. I found where Sync 3 required a 2 for nav, my original 2013 MFT w/ nav as built had a 4 in there which disabled it.

I took the advice of the posts above and flashed blocks 1 and 2 with my 2013 as built and adjusted the values for navigation and the st splash screen (and re-calculated the checksums). Everything worked beautifully. Climate controls work, Voice button works, so do the 1/2 buttons, as well as the phone buttons. It also no longer thinks I have a backup camera too, which is good. I haven't checked the built-in nav directions on the center instrument screen yet, but hopefully that is working too. Also cleared the DTC after the reprogram and am no longer getting errors.

Here are the values I found for Nav from a user named gt_stang on another forum:

Navigation
7D0-01-02 x2xx xxxx xxxx enabled
7D0-01-02 x0xx xxxx xxxx disabled (Home Screen showing Compass)

The only hiccup I have run into so far is finding a way to get to the underside of the USB hub. My 2013 has the AV connectors, USB, and SD card reader, the hub itself sits pretty deep in the console. In other models I saw you can pry the hub out just enough to disconnect the cables. It's not happening on this particular hub, it's too long. I checked the service manual but I didn't see the easiest way to get underneath it in the console. Could somebody point me in the right direction to do so? It's nothing critical, luckily Android Auto works with the old hub, I just get that annoying USB hub not supported message right now.
The front USB port is powered by the hub, it's daisy chained. If your hub isn't connected the front one won't function. The error is annoying but it doesn't break things and hitting okay closes it.
Essentially 'Yes'. Every button now works including voice button, hang up etc. Event the two star buttons 1, and 2 do something. It makes sense really. The codes you are programming on to the APIM are just a list of capabilities of your car. Therefore if you want to tell the APIM what features your car has, there's no better as built file to use as a starting point than the one which is for your car. You don't have to flash the entire module either. I found that pretty much everything I was changing was in the first two blocks. So just write the first block, see what effect that has, then try the second block. You probably don't need to go further. I was a bit nervous at first, unsure of what damage I may cause, but once I realized it didn't seem to matter what you threw at it, I was comfortable just trying changes and reverting back if it didn't have the desired effect.

Save off what you have now so you can always go back to a known state. If you load up your as built for your car and you find that some items which were working no longer are, then compare the files and see if you can determine what has changed and try adjusting to see if you can get those capabilities back. That is what I was doing to try and get the new GPS working as a compass and to remove the nav button. Will be trying this coming weekend.
I Just received a unit from a 2017 Focus ST - my guess is it's a ST3. APIM# HM5T-14G370-GCD

I've have a few question which I hope you guys can help answer.

My car is a 2013 ST3 (for reference)

I would like to also include a backup camera into the build - seeing as this unit is a '17 ST - backup is probably already built in.

Do you guys have an idea how to add this into the upgrade from MFT to Sync3?

Also - I'll probably tap into the guys with the 2013's who've performed this upgrade for help for the FORScan.

Your help will be much appreciated!
 

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there is a cable that you can add that goes inbetween the main car harness and the Sync3 screen. it essentially adds the generic yellow backup camera plug.

4dtech has it for 60 bucks?
 

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I just did this conversion on my 2015 Focus ST. I found a crashed 2017 Focus SEL at a local junk yard. They gave me the APIM/Touchscreen and the USB hub for $200 which I thought was reasonable. I was a little worried about the unit working since the wrecked car had been outside in the elements with no windshield for a few months. I installed everything following the directions at the beginning of this thread, and the 4d tech youtube video here:
.

Everything worked upon install except for the backup camera. Diving into the Forscan software, was a little intimidating at first, but it's actually quite simple once you change a few things. I'd suggest playing with the splash screen first just to confirm you have a solid understanding of the programming process. There's a great guide to using the Forscan tool here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-8dKaS_Spu4Zw4hV_CrKC4tLoP9G8yejqegF1wxIqxY/edit

At the end of the day, the only two values needed to be changed to allow the backup camera to work properly.
1. Confirm the type of backup camera (sensors enabled or not)
APIM string 7D0-01-01 - I changed the second value from a 'B' to a '2'

2. Change the APIM transmission setting so it knows what type of transmission your car has.
APIM string 7D0-01-02 - I changed the 3rd value from '8' to '9'

Remember to fully cycle the ignition on and off between each change - this can take a while.

Hope this helps someone in the same situation.
 

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Just wanted to give everyone a heads up. Ford has released an update for SYNC3 navigation, but it has to be ordered by VIN, and is locked to that vehicle, so it looks like upgrading to SYNC3 with nav from MFT may be a moot point unless someone can figure out how to unlock the files on the flash drive Ford sends the update on.
So would this mean we just can't get the new update? Or if we end up with an APIM that has the update, is the APIM unusable? I've got a 2013 ST2 and I'm starting to look around to get the parts for this swap.
Has this been figured out yet?
 

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Just wanted to throw in my little contribution here. When you're doing the USB hub switchover, rather than spend $50+shipping on an adapter from 4Dtech, you can just rip a 4 pin IDE connector from an old computer (those are the big boxes that came before laptops and iPads) and it fits just fine. I have an early model 2013 which came with the RCA video connectors and the SD card. I connected the yellow wire from the IDE connector to the purple wire on the cable bundle coming from under the center console and that gave me the backlight for the USB ports. The other three aren't connected to anything.
IMG_20190422_191227.jpg
IMG_20190422_191246.jpg
 

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One more addition:
I checked out 4Dtech's video about the adapter harnesses, and found a shot at the end where they show the back of the coupler, revealing which wires go where.

To be clear: I put my wiring together through trial and error, finding the one wire that made the port housing light up. It was only after I closed it all back up that I saw the clues in the video. I cannot for the life of me figure out what that second wire does, if anything. I've been running with only one wire - the purple one I noted in my previous post: the light works and the USB ports work. The USB is entirely supported by its own cable, so the adapter and everything else is entirely just for a light. All I can figure is that it must be sharing a ground with the USB cable or something. So summed up, I think 4Dtech's second wire may be superfluous, but I'm noting it below just in case.

This is what you'll need to connect together to replicate the work 4Dtech did to make the Sync 3 hub work with a Gen1 connection.
New hub pin 1 ---> old harness pin 12
New hub pin 4 ---> old harness pin 3

Gen1 pinout.jpg
 

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Hey guys I know this might’ve been asked before but I can’t find the answer or if there’s an answer at all. I recently went from a sync 1 4inch screen to a sync 2. I know I know I should’ve bought a sync 3. After installing the sync I see that the steering wheel buttons don’t work. Any way to fix this? Also the navigation said navigation fault contact dealer?
 

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Still wondering if there's a workaround for the latest SYNC 3 update being locked to a specific VIN

Also, can anyone confirm whether there's a way to maintain the turn-by-turn directions showing up in the small LCD screen between the gauges? That's a really neat feature of MFT, IMO
 

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Still wondering if there's a workaround for the latest SYNC 3 update being locked to a specific VIN

Also, can anyone confirm whether there's a way to maintain the turn-by-turn directions showing up in the small LCD screen between the gauges? That's a really neat feature of MFT, IMO
You'll need a VIN on the Ford site from a car that has Sync 3 with or without NAV to download Sync updates. The site will take any VIN though and you can add and remove them from your account at will. The turn by turn directions in the small LCD screen between the gauges only works if you use the built-in NAV and does not work with navigation when you use Apple CarPlay. I assume this is the case for Android Auto, but I don't have an Android device to test this with.
 
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