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Hey guys,

I took two under car videos of my rear sway bar last year when I was comparing end links. The first video is strano bar with stock end link. The second video is same bar but with Moog F150 end link. The Moog link pivots at both the top and the bottom. As you can see, a lot of the force is put into rotating the link and not pushing down on the lower control arm.

I'll be back to running the stock end links this year, at least for now.


 

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Neat videos.

Looks like the sway bar is moving in the same plane the whole time - as it should. Do you have collars on the bar to prevent side to side movement?

It's somewhat counter intuitive, but you actually want the end link to move as much as the suspension and sway bar geometry dictate. If the end link doesn't pivot or adjust it's angle as much as the suspension tries to dictate, it's binding the suspension movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Neat videos.

Looks like the sway bar is moving in the same plane the whole time - as it should. Do you have collars on the bar to prevent side to side movement?

It's somewhat counter intuitive, but you actually want the end link to move as much as the suspension and sway bar geometry dictate. If the end link doesn't pivot or adjust it's angle as much as the suspension tries to dictate, it's binding the suspension movement.
Yes I added some shaft collars to the strano bar so that it doesn't shift side to side.

That is interesting, so do you think there is any advantage to running these Moog F150 links over the stock ones? I get what you are saying about binding the suspension, but I just don't like how angled they get. Again, it seems like the force isn't transmitting down to the LCA. Also, you can see that they are rubbing against my bump stops which is probably not ideal.

Another cool thing to watch is all the tire flex. I'm running RE-71R's in these videos fyi.

I figured I'd finally buy some Koni yellow's for all four corners this year. Are there any threads that talk about shock settings? I haven't really seen much in my searches.
 

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I have 17x8 RPF1 wheels, wondering if you ever have the stranos bar rub on the wheels using the stock endlinks.
 

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Yes I added some shaft collars to the strano bar so that it doesn't shift side to side.

That is interesting, so do you think there is any advantage to running these Moog F150 links over the stock ones? I get what you are saying about binding the suspension, but I just don't like how angled they get. Again, it seems like the force isn't transmitting down to the LCA. Also, you can see that they are rubbing against my bump stops which is probably not ideal.

Another cool thing to watch is all the tire flex. I'm running RE-71R's in these videos fyi.
Having the endlink non-vertical is not ideal. You end up with the same amount of vertical force applied, but a front to back force is also generated between the control arm and the sway bar bushings (and into the chassis) that is a function of the angle of the link. In theory, the front to back force does not affect performance (equal and opposite), but in practice it is doing something (small additional deflection of the control arm due to the compliance of bushings, etc).

Did you notice any performance difference between the two?

My suggestion would be to shim the F150 links up to prevent them from hitting the bump stop, and see if you like the performance. Otherwise, use whichever makes you faster (or switch to a COBB :) ).

I figured I'd finally buy some Koni yellow's for all four corners this year. Are there any threads that talk about shock settings? I haven't really seen much in my searches.
When I only had rear koni's, it depended on the surface and conditions. I seemed to like less rear rebound than some, so I think this is a season to taste type of setting depending on whether you want more or less rotation on initial turn-in.
 

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I'm using the Strano bar with OEM rear endlinks with 2 adjustments I made on install.

1) Push the chassis mount bushings as high up as possible. This raises the sway bar helping to lessen the angle at the endlinks.
2) Add shims on top of the upper bushing to extend the overall length of the endlink. Helps with better alignment.

In the below pic you'll notice the endlink mounts perpendicular to the lower mount and has a reduced angle for the endlink to bar mount. This is with the Strano bar on stiff.

FoST RSB.jpg
 

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I Would love to know this as well. I just picked up the 17x8 rpf1's with 255/40/17 Rival S 1.5's, and im just waiting on my strano sway bar to deliver. Sure hope it doesnt have issues.
 

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I Would love to know this as well. I just picked up the 17x8 rpf1's with 255/40/17 Rival S 1.5's, and im just waiting on my strano sway bar to deliver. Sure hope it doesnt have issues.
Per Sam's writing on his page he says that some of the 17x8 wheels will rub with the bar. I'm guessing this was common with the OZ wheels that were the "it" wheel until the RPF1s have come out. That being said Sam says the bar is designed to be "trimmed" so it does not rub as it is a solid bar.



stranoparts said:
** 18" wheels are OEM on the car. If you run 17" wheels the end of our bar might come in contact with your non-stock wheel. Please check this before driving if you have a -1 fitment. If required, the bar is solid and the end can be ground to make a amall amount of room for your particular rim
 

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Per Sam's writing on his page he says that some of the 17x8 wheels will rub with the bar. I'm guessing this was common with the OZ wheels that were the "it" wheel until the RPF1s have come out. That being said Sam says the bar is designed to be "trimmed" so it does not rub as it is a solid bar.
Yea i read this on the site, but its so vague, i was just wondering what the likelihood was that this would be an issue. I would sure hate to start grinding down that bar the day i get it :(
 

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It was my understanding that there was a revision a couple of years ago that addressed the clearance issues. I didn't have to modify anything to make it fit with 17x8's....
 

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Just wanted to say that I have run OEM Focus 17" wheels and the Sport Edition F10 17" and the bar wasn't close to hitting. I also have the Enkeis and I don't think there will be a clearance issue.
 

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Confirmed that I have zero clearance issues but I for sure need to get the adjustable end links, there is a little bit of binding with my bar.
 

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Very cool.... thanks for the videos. Correct me if I'm wrong but I would think that as you get more load on the Moog F-150 end links they pivot (become less vertical) and you transmit less load into the torsion spring (the sway bar). This would be the same as having a smaller sway bar at extreme load (less oversteer) vs. what you have at lower load. Your sway bar stiffness isn't linear, which it probably isn't even with perfect geometry, but you are changing the characteristics of the torsion spring by using a different end link. You of course are also introducing a force on the suspension which dynamically changes alignment due to the deflection in the suspension bushings. There is so much going on there that it is hard to untangle all those forces but enlightening just the same.

Also, you can see why the stock end link fails at the lower bolt. The strain on that thing is pretty amazing. You would think Ford would have designed a beefier mounting method.
 
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