Ford Focus ST Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
2015 Ford Focus ST, big turbo, built motor and trans, 4 port aux fuel.
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I made 4 runs at the drag strip the other week and car didn't do nearly as well as I was hoping. There was so much wheel hop from the launch and it wouldn't grab at all and then when trying to shift into second it kept not grabbing the gear. I have a Clarke built trans with Wavetrac LSD, Spec Stage 3+ clutch and flywheel, and Boomba RMM. Car still wouldn't grab when using launch control at 3800 RPM. Ended up having to roll slowly into it for it to hook at all. Any suggestions on how to get it to hook?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
313 Posts
been working on my starts, noticed the same thing... getting the best jump at 2800-3000, kind of followed by a little wheel spin, no hopping though idk still practicing haha
 

·
Super Moderator
2014 ST3. Garrett Powermax turbo, Thermal Turboback, CPE intercooler, JBR intake, Innovative RMM
Joined
·
3,508 Posts
You have too much torque for FWD and street tires. Dropping pressure would help some, but running slicks is about your only solution.
As far as the 2nd gear issue, are you experiencing this on the street as well? Have you tried the shift cable reset?
 

·
Registered
15 TB Focus ST3
Joined
·
538 Posts
What tires are you running? Also tire pressure should be played with. Also, do you have coilovers? Playing with softer settings could allow/disallow more/less squat at launch for better grip.

Just some ideas.
 

·
Registered
2016 Focus ST2
Joined
·
789 Posts
Tires and suspension mods!
All those mods dont mean anything when everything is flexing.
What about suspension?
get a front TB and upgrade your sway bars makes all the difference.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Skykri

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,295 Posts
I'm definitely not a drag racer, but 3800 rpm is waaay too high for launching the FoST with street tires. I've had some success in taming wheel hop by increasing front rebound relative to front compression (if you've got double-adjustable shocks).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,284 Posts
All that stuff won't help. I am a drag racer, look at my threads in the drag race forum.

Slicks will not wheel hop, they will give you the best ET (personal best 60 foot is 1.76) you will never, ever come close to that with street tires.

If you go often enough to justify the investment, I would do that. You will get at least two seasons out of a pair of slicks, that is if you go every week and do the brackets which I would do for two reasons. A) It will improve your performance at the drag strip especially your reaction time which need to be .0xx to be successful, that only comes with practice. B) by entering your local brackets, Import Face-off, Street Car Takeover, Cletus and Cars, etc you can attempt to make back your investment in those slicks.

There are at least two reasons why you have wheel hop, none of them are related to bracing or stiffer motor mounts because if you notice others have tried these and they don't eliminate it. I know exactly how to eliminate it because I did on my Focus ST, nobody else can make that claim.

You need clutch control. I used a Clutch Masters Flow Control Valve. Problem was at its lowest setting it wasn't enough for big power (larger turbo). I didn't try it with the stock turbo, it might be enough for that. I would get that or the Tilton Flow Control Valve. They are easy to install; all you do is go to your local hydraulic line company have them make a line the exact length of the rubber line that goes between the clutch slave cylinder and the hard line on the frame rail.

I could do a 6000 rpm clutch dump and all it would do is spin the tires, no hop. The car ran [email protected] mph that way, as I said it wasn't enough adjustment for big power.

My speculation is with slicks, flow control and a stock turbo, you can launch the car at 6000 rpm, get ignition cut, not fuel cut which is what happens below that, build boost off the line and the car should run down in the 1.6x 60 foot times, but not on the stock suspension, that gets to my next point.

You need to buy coilovers, AIr Lift Performance air ride, whatever but you need to corner balance the car. People will undoubtedly post right after that and say bullsh*t. Don't listen to them because they don't run quick in the 1/4 mile so how could they know?

Put your car on corner scales you'll see what I mean. With your simulated weight in the driver's seat there will be vastly more weight over the left front tire than the right. That is the main cause of your wheel hop (next would be flex in the bushings) and will help you get much better 60 ft times on any tire. You also don't want a super stiff rear suspension you just want to keep the car level overall, maybe with a slight rake.

From there you'll need to experiment with boost levels. Depending on what your using to tune, with the Cobb I think you can reduce boost in 1st gear. With SCT it's a torque reduction adjustment, either way you likely need to reduce boost to help improve your times, that will be very apparent with big power (400-500-600-700).

You don't need to increase the NVH of the car to gain traction, it's fool's errand and won't make things better, just empty your wallet.

Do the above, it's EXACTLY what all the fast Hondas do.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
815 Posts
@djfourmoney I’ve always appreciated your posts. A year or so ago, I remember you saying you had ideas on how to eliminate wheel hop you wanted to try.

I’m glad you were willing to share what you figured out - you’re a good man!!

Do you still have your ST?
 

·
Registered
2015 Ford Focus ST, big turbo, built motor and trans, 4 port aux fuel.
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You have too much torque for FWD and street tires. Dropping pressure would help some, but running slicks is about your only solution.
As far as the 2nd gear issue, are you experiencing this on the street as well? Have you tried the shift cable reset?
Yeah so I've done the shift cable reset, im running 255 wide 200tw tires, was running about 24psi in them, will drop them down to 15 next time I go. On the street it is completely fine, just had that issue on the strip. I think second is messing up because I am shifting mid wheel hop and it just messes with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
461 Posts
Yeah so I've done the shift cable reset, im running 255 wide 200tw tires, was running about 24psi in them, will drop them down to 15 next time I go. On the street it is completely fine, just had that issue on the strip. I think second is messing up because I am shifting mid wheel hop and it just messes with it.
Yeah, the car needs to settle as quickly as possible. If you're still hopping at the top end of 1st, 2nd will just carry on misbehaving... Regardless of how smooth you shift, the chassis shouldn't be 'bucking' around at all. Just straight pull/power to the ground by then. Lower RPM's at launch is one way to handle it, but if you're trying to send that ****, then you should counter balance the weight distribution (as @djformoney mentioned), or pay out for wheel/tire setup that can handle the torque load of launching FWD (& still counter balance the car). Just my 2 cents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,284 Posts
@djfourmoney I’ve always appreciated your posts. A year or so ago, I remember you saying you had ideas on how to eliminate wheel hop you wanted to try.

I’m glad you were willing to share what you figured out - you’re a good man!!

Do you still have your ST?
No unfortunately in a roundabout way the bank got me at the start of 2019. I tried to save it, even filed BK to stop it being sold at auction.

I have a 2020 Kia Forte GT that has run [email protected] (13.75 best ET) on drag radials, JB4 and E30.

At some point I'll get another one, too many ST1's and too many grey, blue, black cars. I'd like Pepper Red we'll see.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gemery

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,284 Posts
Yeah so I've done the shift cable reset, im running 255 wide 200tw tires, was running about 24psi in them, will drop them down to 15 next time I go. On the street it is completely fine, just had that issue on the strip. I think second is messing up because I am shifting mid wheel hop and it just messes with it.
200 wear rating tires won't stop wheel hop.

You need to smooth out the clutch release. Doing it with your foot takes practice. The flow valves are cheap, under $200, maybe $250 with fittings and braided lines.

That and reducing boost in 1st gear will help but as I said slicks are small investment compared to other things. If you get 2.3's now, you'll get 1.8's without trying, that's .5 a second at the line, 2-3 tenths per tenth. That is over a second reduction in ET.

Again I ran [email protected] with only slicks and E40 tune from Torrie. Stock intercooler, mounts, intake, exhaust, downpipe, full weight, minus the spare.

It really is pointless to run street tires at the track and it will not relate back to the street like you think it would.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gemery and TurboGT

·
Registered
2015 Ford Focus ST, big turbo, built motor and trans, 4 port aux fuel.
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
200 wear rating tires won't stop wheel hop.

You need to smooth out the clutch release. Doing it with your foot takes practice. The flow valves are cheap, under $200, maybe $250 with fittings and braided lines.

That and reducing boost in 1st gear will help but as I said slicks are small investment compared to other things. If you get 2.3's now, you'll get 1.8's without trying, that's .5 a second at the line, 2-3 tenths per tenth. That is over a second reduction in ET.

Again I ran [email protected] with only slicks and E40 tune from Torrie. Stock intercooler, mounts, intake, exhaust, downpipe, full weight, minus the spare.

It really is pointless to run street tires at the track and it will not relate back to the street like you think it would.
Yeah I think I need to just invest in a set of slicks for the front for the strip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,284 Posts
Yeah I think I need to just invest in a set of slicks for the front for the strip.
It's not just the front. It's all the way down track, you can put more power into it after 1st or 2nd gear.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top