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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick question, had a discussion at work last week and I thought I would ask on here. What do you guys to be a quick and a fast street car? At least that's what we determined the differences are. I used to thing a 13 second car was quick, now I'm thinking more a 12 second car. A fast car I consider low 11s/ high 10s. Also I'm thinking it should be a driver, drive to track, run it, drive it home. Everyone's opinion is welcome
 

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I agree with the whole drive to/ drive home idea. I would say that sub 12 sec is quick. I would say is sub 11 sec.

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Some tracks will try to say this doesn't apply to you but the reality is this -

NHRA says cars after 2010 with side air bags are allowed to run 10.00 or 135 mph without additional safety equipment other than helmet and a jacket. A helmet is required at 13.99 and jacket is required after 12.5.

Cars before 2010 are required to add a 5/6 point roll bar at 11.5

All cars over 135 mph and built after 2010 require all the above and have to add a chute.

To properly mount a chute you would need a trailer hitch, otherwise you would have to cut the bumper and mount it to the actual bumper.

135 mph is more likely in a FWD car before 10.00, so I would say that is the point of no return for a daily driven car.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've never taken the ST to the track. My turbo'd bullitt ran an 11.32 @ 133 last time out, but that was with the Novi 2000 setup. With the new turbo setup it dyno'd 85 rwhp and 120 rwtq more with less boost. It should easily run in the 10s, but I don't drive it enough because its not a challenge with most cars. I'm trying to figure out with the ST what would be considered quick. I'm thinking the ST would be quick as a low 13, high 12 car.
 

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To me, a high 10 second car is a very quick/fast street car. More importantly, 130mph+ traps, because most street cars are not going to be able to do the lightweight/drag only suspension that gets low HP cars into the 10s.
I could care less whether you drive it or trailer it - I trailer all my cars and bikes to the track so I can enjoy the nice ride in the truck there, trailer for all my extra tools, and have zero worries about breaking and be able to go all out when there.
I would just want to see that the car theoretically would be capable of driving to the track, swapping wheels/tires, racing, then driving home. I know a lot of racers that do like I do simply out of convenience.
 

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Now are we talking mid 10s to low 11s comfortably? Coming from a 4gen Fbody crowd mid 11s to low 12s was what most of us aimed for as a daily driver. That was also circa 2003,2004ish and times and technology have changed dramatically. Had a buddy with a 2010? Gt500 and tho the car was awesome, comfort was not it's forte and if I wanna have a street car/daily driver comfort is semi high on my list driving 64 miles round trip a day.

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To me, a high 10 second car is a very quick/fast street car. More importantly, 130mph+ traps, because most street cars are not going to be able to do the lightweight/drag only suspension that gets low HP cars into the 10s.
I could care less whether you drive it or trailer it - I trailer all my cars and bikes to the track so I can enjoy the nice ride in the truck there, trailer for all my extra tools, and have zero worries about breaking and be able to go all out when there.
I would just want to see that the car theoretically would be capable of driving to the track, swapping wheels/tires, racing, then driving home. I know a lot of racers that do like I do simply out of convenience.
Who said you need a lightweight drag suspension and wheels? It takes more power to overcome heavier wheels and stock type suspension but in reality we're talking 4-5 tenths or 40-50 hp; Not hard to accomplish in a turbo car.

Minimum you will need coil-overs and that's mostly to control rear squat and front end lift. That is not to run the rear super stiff, that doesn't work.

For most people it's cheaper to remove weight than to add more power. I'd like to know how much it cost for 76 mm to add 85 whp/120 trq to his S197 Mustang over the Novi 2000 setup.

10's can be done on street tires, but you'll need enormous back half speed to make up for delaying WOT/Full Boost on street tires. I'm talking picking up 40-50 mph from the 1/8th mile to the 1/4 mile.

Stock turbo about 20-22 mph 1/8th to 1/4 mile

It's much easier (and cheaper) to mount up some slicks and make about 550 hp or so; With a decent 60' that's high to mid 10's.

Now are we talking mid 10s to low 11s comfortably? Coming from a 4gen Fbody crowd mid 11s to low 12s was what most of us aimed for as a daily driver. That was also circa 2003,2004ish and times and technology have changed dramatically. Had a buddy with a 2010? Gt500 and tho the car was awesome, comfort was not it's forte and if I wanna have a street car/daily driver comfort is semi high on my list driving 64 miles round trip a day.

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Comfort adds weight, just the way it is. The nicer a car is the more it weighs. It cost quite a bit of money to buy a car with enough comfort and power to run say 10.8 off the showroom floor.

The Dodge Charger Hellcat has the balance of comfort and power struck just about right for the average punter. Much more comfortable than previous generation GT500 for sure, more power, better suspension and the 8 speed auto is great.

Recently there was some talk of being able to lease one for about $500 a month. That's about as cheap as your gong to get for that until they hit the used market about 5-10 years from now.

The downside is the expense overall, higher insurance cost if your under 30 and terrible gas mileage.

Mildly modified Hellcats run down to about [email protected]+ mph (Tune, E85, Pulley, Exhaust, Drag Radials)

My friend has 2014 Caddy CTS-V than runs [email protected] mph with stock engine, stock blower, E85 vis HP Tuners and M&H drag radials. That's another comfortable car, automatic, etc.

I've never taken the ST to the track. My turbo'd bullitt ran an 11.32 @ 133 last time out, but that was with the Novi 2000 setup. With the new turbo setup it dyno'd 85 rwhp and 120 rwtq more with less boost. It should easily run in the 10s, but I don't drive it enough because its not a challenge with most cars. I'm trying to figure out with the ST what would be considered quick. I'm thinking the ST would be quick as a low 13, high 12 car.
133 mph and all you could manage was 11.3?

What is considered quick? Do some research/investigation.

Based on my research/investigation -

1) Most ST's show up to the track on street tires on Street Legal Days
2) Most of the high powered ST's never see a track
3) And when they do, they show up on street tires.

So the main problem is getting the power down, not making it.

I was able to convince two ST owners to purchase slicks and skip the whole drag radial thing, not that you can't make radials work.

Of the three builds I follow closely -

GTX 2971 .86 AR = [email protected] mph (mild weight reduction, so-so 60' time, slicks, stock engine)
GTX 2867 .64 AR = [email protected] mph (Track Car, Trailer'ed, Needs a Clutch? or Better 60' times, slicks, stock engine)
GTX 2971 .64 AR = [email protected] mph (full weight, first time on slicks, Need Better 60' times, slicks, stock engine)
Stock Turbo = [email protected] (FBO or Stage 3, mild weight reduction, drag radials)

All these cars have some form of extra injector system and run E30/E40 except for the stock turbo car but he does run E30.

The stock turbo build recently ran 108 mph though his ET's didn't improve.

Eventually you will see stock turbo cars running above 110 mph. I've seen this happen in the SRT-4 community where the stock turbo not much bigger than the K03s on this car trapping in the 117-120 mph range. It's hard to beat the nearly instant response of the stock turbo, the challenge becomes getting more air out of it. When that's tapped out, then it's getting it hold more boost, you can only do so much with internal waste gates.

I have a Turbo Smart IWG for this car but I haven't installed it yet and I don't know how much more I'll be messing with the stock turbo. If I can get the stock turbo to hold say 20-21 psi to redline it will be much faster as I'll hold peak torque longer.

I don't wanna hear any screams of hot air; Injecting full E85 helps a ton.

Highly touted inter-cooler upgrades bring charge cooler temps down from 170-180 to around 100 degrees. You can use extra injectors w/E85 or water methanol injection to further bring down charge cooler outlet temps.

In other words the same tactics used in the SRT-4 community will work here. Somebody just needs the conjoes to weld a small external waste gate onto the stock turbo... If you have a MIG welder and some free time, it's certainly cheaper than buying a turbo upgrade. In fact it's all you need IF you don't want to give up the response of the stock turbo. The truth is you'll have to give up some response to get the trap speeds needed to run deep into the 10 second range.

Notice I said some, you must not be apart of the "Boost Only" crew that tends to dominate turbo car communities. If you think that way, you'll give up a ton of response and then try to justify it as necessary evil when it's not.

Also ignore those that want to put asterisk by your accomplishments.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
The 11.3 pass was on the street tires lifting on the top end. I was trying to stay out of the 11.49 range because I have no cage in the car. The biggest issue on the turbo setup is the traction once it gets into boost so I've never really taken it to the track. With the current turbo setup I should easily run in the mid to high 10s on a set of drag radials when the boost turned up to 18-20 and I put higher octane in it. At least that's the hope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've been thinking about the ST more and more over the last week, I realize that the car is definitely not ever going to competition for some of the more powerful street cars out there. I really don't want to make it to where it is not a fun street car to drive, I think I'd prefer to try to get a high 12 to low 13 second car that can handle great and do well as a daily driver. I'm debating on going with the E30 tube since E85 is easy to get by my house. I just need to go through some of the builds and see what others are doing.
 

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The 11.3 pass was on the street tires lifting on the top end. I was trying to stay out of the 11.49 range because I have no cage in the car. The biggest issue on the turbo setup is the traction once it gets into boost so I've never really taken it to the track. With the current turbo setup I should easily run in the mid to high 10s on a set of drag radials when the boost turned up to 18-20 and I put higher octane in it. At least that's the hope.
You just hit one of the issues I have with using older cars to go fast. The NHRA says you must have a 5/6 point after 11.50 as you said, you don't have a bar so you were trying to stay under 11.49.

No need to concern yourself with this with the ST. As I said some track officials are not up to speed and believe the amended rules only apply to powerful RWD cars now available. It is not true, any car produced after 2010 with side air bags can side step this rule.

Your true limit is 10.00 or 135 mph. It's easier to hit 135 mph in a FWD car than to run the 1.4 and below 60' needed to run 10.0

No reason it can't run somewhere in the 10's on drag radials in your Mustang, my buddy does it with much heavier CTS-V stock block, stock supercharger + bolt-on and E85 run [email protected] full interior on M&H drag radials (1.56 60').

I've been thinking about the ST more and more over the last week, I realize that the car is definitely not ever going to competition for some of the more powerful street cars out there. I really don't want to make it to where it is not a fun street car to drive, I think I'd prefer to try to get a high 12 to low 13 second car that can handle great and do well as a daily driver. I'm debating on going with the E30 tube since E85 is easy to get by my house. I just need to go through some of the builds and see what others are doing.
Why would it not be fun on the street to drive? Why would it compromise handling?

My research started before I owned the car, I was lurking before I officially joined.

I've gone 13.1 on the stock suspension. I believe I can get down in the low 1.7's, maybe 1.6's on just slicks. Current best 60' is 1.76, just being more aggressive with air pressure and maybe a slightly wider wheel should bring it down more.

I use my car for Uber and I don't want my rating to go down from getting less than five stars because the car rides rough, especially with five people in it.

It took me a few times to write below -

Stock turbo - I mean maxed out (porting, extrude hone, etc), external 'gate, holding as much psi as you can to red line should hit well over 400 lbs of torque on the boost spike and hold it the majority of the power band. Do you want to make that investment? That's really the only way you get to keep stock response, eliminate surge and hold more boost than any internal 'gate can hold. I will say max power is going to be around 320-325 whp.

Mild upgrade - EFR the best and the most expensive but have the closest to stock response.

6258 = 400+ on E85/Race Gas
6758 = 450+ on " "
7163 = 500+ on " "

Garrett doesn't have quite the response but are much less expensive.

On the street I rarely see more than 12 psi of boost and shift at 2,500 rpm, maybe 3,000 when want a little more acceleration.

But when at the track, I launch at 4,300-4,500 rpm and always above 4,000+ rpm when I shift so making power down low just encourages wheel spin. I don't drive aggressively on the street or street tires.

At some point the challenge of going quicker on drag radials, then maybe street tires.

If this is going to see track duty regularly (series, street legals, etc, two-three times a month), I'd opt for .86 housing. I just don't like how power tappers off on people with .63 housing.

Besides there's an easy solution to turbo lag...
 

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Who said you need a lightweight drag suspension and wheels? It takes more power to overcome heavier wheels and stock type suspension but in reality we're talking 4-5 tenths or 40-50 hp; Not hard to accomplish in a turbo car.

Minimum you will need coil-overs and that's mostly to control rear squat and front end lift. That is not to run the rear super stiff, that doesn't work.

For most people it's cheaper to remove weight than to add more power. I'd like to know how much it cost for 76 mm to add 85 whp/120 trq to his S197 Mustang over the Novi 2000 setup.

10's can be done on street tires, but you'll need enormous back half speed to make up for delaying WOT/Full Boost on street tires. I'm talking picking up 40-50 mph from the 1/8th mile to the 1/4 mile.

Stock turbo about 20-22 mph 1/8th to 1/4 mile

It's much easier (and cheaper) to mount up some slicks and make about 550 hp or so; With a decent 60' that's high to mid 10's.
I didn't know we were talking the ST specifically, I thought it was a more general question. My comment about lightweight/drag only suspension was a reference to those two items separately...you can go 10s in a Fox Body if you gut it enough, slicks, dedicated drag suspension with very little HP/mph. That's how 90% of cars get there on a budget - but it would SUCK to drive on the street, been there, done that. I don't think that's a "street" car. You don't need coilovers - you need a good set of double adjustable rear shocks, pull the front bar, airbag in the right rear. We seem to agree that a comfortable street car is going to weigh more and 60' less than a dedicated track car, and that compromise means you are going to need a huge back half. I personally don't think a car with slicks is a street car. It's one thing to run radials and if it rains while you are at work you need to be super careful going home, it's another thing to be on full slicks and be literally ****ed and have no choice but to park it and wait.

If we are talking ST specifically, my idea of "fast" is a BT/bolt ons car with a mildly built motor is going to run low 12s/high 11s in a "street car" setup. I just don't see where you are going to drop significant weight from this car without giving up some of its amazing interior features that make it such a great street car. Crash bars, ditching some of the unnecessary plastic in the engine bay may get you 100lbs total. And there is always the struggle of getting a FWD out of the hole. I think your best bet is set up a launch control to get it out soft and rely on a 130+ back half to click off an 11. You're going to need 500+ to even get in that territory, and that's a pretty select club here, but that's the point of quick/fast is not every average joe is doing it. But that's just my opinion...I know there are people at the track that begin with something so uncomfortable they haven't driven it on the street but theoretically on a nice summer day you could take it out, and people who get to the track with a true street car then take out 500lbs of interior stuff, bolt up some slicks, remove the sway bars, adjust the shocks and run it. Everyone has a different idea of what makes a car a "street" car. Mine is race it in the exact trim you drive it on the street.

Honestly, if drag racing is your real passion, this car is a piss poor platform to do that efficiently. You are going to pump money into an ST and it's going to fight you every step of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm not thinking drag racing- I prefer it to be a great all around vehicle. I've got the Bullitt for a drag setup. I was just more curious on what people thought. I think if I could get the ST into the 12s and make it a great handling all around vehicle I would be happy with it.
 

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I didn't know we were talking the ST specifically, I thought it was a more general question. My comment about lightweight/drag only suspension was a reference to those two items separately...you can go 10s in a Fox Body if you gut it enough, slicks, dedicated drag suspension with very little HP/mph. That's how 90% of cars get there on a budget - but it would SUCK to drive on the street, been there, done that. I don't think that's a "street" car. You don't need coilovers - you need a good set of double adjustable rear shocks, pull the front bar, airbag in the right rear. We seem to agree that a comfortable street car is going to weigh more and 60' less than a dedicated track car, and that compromise means you are going to need a huge back half. I personally don't think a car with slicks is a street car. It's one thing to run radials and if it rains while you are at work you need to be super careful going home, it's another thing to be on full slicks and be literally ****ed and have no choice but to park it and wait.

If we are talking ST specifically, my idea of "fast" is a BT/bolt ons car with a mildly built motor is going to run low 12s/high 11s in a "street car" setup. I just don't see where you are going to drop significant weight from this car without giving up some of its amazing interior features that make it such a great street car. Crash bars, ditching some of the unnecessary plastic in the engine bay may get you 100lbs total. And there is always the struggle of getting a FWD out of the hole. I think your best bet is set up a launch control to get it out soft and rely on a 130+ back half to click off an 11. You're going to need 500+ to even get in that territory, and that's a pretty select club here, but that's the point of quick/fast is not every average joe is doing it. But that's just my opinion...I know there are people at the track that begin with something so uncomfortable they haven't driven it on the street but theoretically on a nice summer day you could take it out, and people who get to the track with a true street car then take out 500lbs of interior stuff, bolt up some slicks, remove the sway bars, adjust the shocks and run it. Everyone has a different idea of what makes a car a "street" car. Mine is race it in the exact trim you drive it on the street.

Honestly, if drag racing is your real passion, this car is a piss poor platform to do that efficiently. You are going to pump money into an ST and it's going to fight you every step of the way.
I was talking about the ST and I don't disagree.

But I will say dumping money into the ST is very reasonable compared typical RWD, straight axle, V8 car that's 10-15-20 years old.

My friend's CTS-V does [email protected] mph on M&H Drag Radials, full interior. Stock Block, Cam, Supercharger, full exhaust, pulley and E85 via HP Tuners. It's a 2014 and it's a CPO car (off lease).

I paid just under $25,000 for my ST2 while he spent about $30,000 not including the bits he bought because no CTS-V will do 10's dead stock.

You don't think I can catch him for $5,000 and remain reliable?

I have spent $1,600 and the real party piece I haven't even used yet.

So that leaves $3,400

Since most of the bottle necks in the car have been addressed, that leaves the biggest bottle neck; the stock turbo. $3,400 is not enough to buy any of the Full Race kits.

But that doesn't mean I can't make 500+ hp and have very little lag vs. stock
 

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I'm not thinking drag racing- I prefer it to be a great all around vehicle. I've got the Bullitt for a drag setup. I was just more curious on what people thought. I think if I could get the ST into the 12s and make it a great handling all around vehicle I would be happy with it.
Stage 3/FBO will do 12's on drag radials, mid weight reduction (rear seats, hatch cover, floor cover, spare/jack/tool removed).

JST's street ST ran 12.95 on Nitto NT-555R's
Former JST customer ran [email protected] on M/T Drag Radials

I did 13.1 and 13.2 three weeks ago at IFO Bakersfield, in my build thread about 7:30 mark there's a video of my [email protected] pass because I left too much air in the slicks (15 psi cold).

With a 2.14 60' that similar to street tires. That's just a tune and down pipe. I have an intake but I doubt it's helping much at the moment.

Stock suspension, Stock wheels on the back, spare removed on slicks (26x8.5x17). As I say in my thread if it's not mentioned it's factory issue. So as I asked how is handling compromised?

I wouldn't play basketball in work boots, so I don't drive daily on the slicks. Nitto's are the hardest drag radial on the market, last about 10,000 or so miles but will gain you about a tenth/tenth and a half over whatever street tire you can find, even Pilot Super Sports which are so much more than you can buy Indy 500's like I did and still have enough money leftover to buy drag radials with 17" wheels.

Yo Ken from Fast Ford's and Muscle Mustangs ran [email protected] on 93 octane, 3" DP (no cat) and Torrie's 93 tune.

I'm on E40 and the car was up to operating temp every time I lined up to make a pass, so I never got my usual 25-26 degrees of advance. The car will do 12's as it sits in the drive way on slicks, won't happen on typical street tires without lots of practice.

Kewing who I just convinced to buy slicks made 400 hp on pump gas (93) and water-methanol injection with a GTX 2867 turbo upgrade. He ran [email protected] on that setup on street tires. His current setup is larger turbo (GTX 2971), about 20hp more overall and on his first time out on slicks ran [email protected] with E30 and extra injectors. Once things are sorted out a bit more, it will run 11's.

As I said, the only thing that could be compromised is the stock turbo response. Handling will remain as-is unless you change out the struts for coil-overs. I will tell you right now however that Air Lift Performance kit for this car will ride better than stock and handle just as good if not better than the best coil-over you can put on here.

If overall ride is a concern don't do lowering springs.

Traction is your biggest problem, address that first.

Again the car will do 12's on the stock turbo with a tune and down pipe on slicks or run 12's on street tires with an upgraded turbo, look up Silver Shooter aka [email protected], he was running 12.3's on either a Kumho or Hankook tire I don't remember but the street tire class he was running the wear rating had to be 300 or more.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Stage 3/FBO will do 12's on drag radials, mid weight reduction (rear seats, hatch cover, floor cover, spare/jack/tool removed).

JST's street ST ran 12.95 on Nitto NT-555R's
Former JST customer ran [email protected] on M/T Drag Radials

I did 13.1 and 13.2 three weeks ago at IFO Bakersfield, in my build thread about 7:30 mark there's a video of my [email protected] pass because I left too much air in the slicks (15 psi cold).

With a 2.14 60' that similar to street tires. That's just a tune and down pipe. I have an intake but I doubt it's helping much at the moment.

Stock suspension, Stock wheels on the back, spare removed on slicks (26x8.5x17). As I say in my thread if it's not mentioned it's factory issue. So as I asked how is handling compromised?

I wouldn't play basketball in work boots, so I don't drive daily on the slicks. Nitto's are the hardest drag radial on the market, last about 10,000 or so miles but will gain you about a tenth/tenth and a half over whatever street tire you can find, even Pilot Super Sports which are so much more than you can buy Indy 500's like I did and still have enough money leftover to buy drag radials with 17" wheels.

Yo Ken from Fast Ford's and Muscle Mustangs ran [email protected] on 93 octane, 3" DP (no cat) and Torrie's 93 tune.

I'm on E40 and the car was up to operating temp every time I lined up to make a pass, so I never got my usual 25-26 degrees of advance. The car will do 12's as it sits in the drive way on slicks, won't happen on typical street tires without lots of practice.

Kewing who I just convinced to buy slicks made 400 hp on pump gas (93) and water-methanol injection with a GTX 2867 turbo upgrade. He ran [email protected] on that setup on street tires. His current setup is larger turbo (GTX 2971), about 20hp more overall and on his first time out on slicks ran [email protected] with E30 and extra injectors. Once things are sorted out a bit more, it will run 11's.

As I said, the only thing that could be compromised is the stock turbo response. Handling will remain as-is unless you change out the struts for coil-overs. I will tell you right now however that Air Lift Performance kit for this car will ride better than stock and handle just as good if not better than the best coil-over you can put on here.

If overall ride is a concern don't do lowering springs.

Traction is your biggest problem, address that first.

Again the car will do 12's on the stock turbo with a tune and down pipe on slicks or run 12's on street tires with an upgraded turbo, look up Silver Shooter aka [email protected], he was running 12.3's on either a Kumho or Hankook tire I don't remember but the street tire class he was running the wear rating had to be 300 or more.
Makes perfect sense. I started looking to big turbo setups earlier today, now I just need to decide how big I want to go. I don't really want to go down the same route as I did with the Bullitt. I did two different supercharger setups, one being the first in the country. I didn't like the results and the lack of response on the street but on the track it was a blast. That was the main reason for the turbo swap. The below peak numbers are the crazy difference, the torque difference is the insane on the street. However, if I were going to swap turbos on that car I would probably step down to a 67 and not stay with the 76, it just comes on a little late for the street, but when actually racing it really doesn't matter, once in boost it stays in boost.

Back to ST, I think the biggest thing for me to do currently is just do some research and find a turbo swap that fits where I want to be and just stick with the goal in mind.
 

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The upgrades with the least amount of lag are EFR 6258 Full Race or Mountune MRX same turbo. The Mountune cost less because you have to buy the down pipe separately and no after market down pipe meant for the stock turbo will work with either of those.

The Full Race cost more because they include a down pipe and intake. The turbo itself retails for more than the GTX because it's what Borg Warner calls the "no excuse" turbo. Borg Warner is the OE turbo on this car and the EFR series has several features already on the stock turbo such as integrated re-circulation valve. This means that you can bolt this turbo on and go, no BOV to mount or re-circulate as some people have done to keep the turbo noises to a minimum.

Seriously, all you do is replace your stock turbo with either one, reconnect everything and fire it up.

With the ATP's Garrett based kits you can weld a flange onto the stock hot side or buy any of the two or three aftermarket cold sides on the market. Many give you a choice of Greddy or Tial BOV.

You can save some money by going with a Turbo Smart 22 mm bov which is plenty for this application and use one of the included flanges welded onto the stock hot side. Mrs DHM (Dead Hook Motorsport) personal Focus ST was done this way. They also went with a Tial .86 housing and external WG option, but really you don't need that I haven't heard or seen any boost creep issues with any of these turbos.

Now you'll run into a few problems with upgraded turbos.

1) To get the most out of them you have to run them on something other than pump gas or use water-methanol injection.
2) The clutch might need to be replaced

You can bolt the ATP kit (GTX 2867 .64 AR) onto an otherwise stock car. Hemi Couple did just that, they eventually upgraded the inter-cooler but otherwise stock exhaust system and down pipe. He made 330 hp on 93 octane via virtual dyno.

On Hoosier DR2 drag radials he ran 12.8 I believe, go check out his build thread.

IMHO you really need to upgrade the suspension and really address boost control to get the most out of drag radials.

Stock tune is 220 hp on 91 and about 240 hp on 93

Stage 3/FBO is about 260 hp on 91 and 270 hp on 93

E30/E40 tune + waste gate mod or Turbo Smart IWG will get you to 300 whp

If you did it piece meal about $2,000

The only way to save money is to buy stuff used which isn't hard because many of the 2013 and 2014 cars are now being traded-in and returned back to stock, but.

Speed by Design's turbo kit is $2,000...

Quickest spooling Garrett will be a GTX2860 or GT2860RS aka Disco Potato

Either of these turbos can be tuned to 340-350 hp on pump gas. Add 25-30 hp if tuned for VP 101/Sunoco GT 260+ that is if you don't want to bother with mixing fuel to blend E30, which will give you a bigger gain.
 
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My friend's CTS-V does [email protected] mph on M&H Drag Radials, full interior. Stock Block, Cam, Supercharger, full exhaust, pulley and E85 via HP Tuners. It's a 2014 and it's a CPO car (off lease).

I paid just under $25,000 for my ST2 while he spent about $30,000 not including the bits he bought because no CTS-V will do 10's dead stock.

You don't think I can catch him for $5,000 and remain reliable?
Dumping money into any car is a stupid exercise in lack of return on investment - only do it for your enjoyment.
As far as catching the CTS-V, you better open your checkbook real far to go 10.60s in a FWD car.
Either that or get out the sawzall. You're going to have to find at least 35 more mph to even approach those ETs.
 
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Dumping money into any car is a stupid exercise in lack of return on investment - only do it for your enjoyment.
As far as catching the CTS-V, you better open your checkbook real far to go 10.60s in a FWD car.
Either that or get out the sawzall. You're going to have to find at least 35 more mph to even approach those ETs.
No need to write a big check, just watch my build thread.
 

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My definition of a street car is probably a lot more conservative than most of you.

1) Street tires. No Slicks/Radials.
2) Pump Gas (93 max, E blends not widely available near me)
3) Minimal weight reduction/Full interior

Using this definition my old car (2007 turbo spec v) went 12.8 @ 111 at Atco NJ w/ 2.0 60'.

For me, a quick street car ET (assuming we're talking FWD turbo cars) is high 12's low 13's based on the above criteria. If you can run faster and still fit those guidelines you would have a fast street car.

IMO of course.

If we're talking all cars, or including RWD cars the scale goes lower into the times/higher into traps to be relevant, but I think designating class/rule guidelines is important.

If you trailer your car, use race gas blends, run race tires, or remove your entire interior you are no longer a street car IMO.
 

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My definition of a street car is probably a lot more conservative than most of you.

1) Street tires. No Slicks/Radials.
2) Pump Gas (93 max, E blends not widely available near me)
3) Minimal weight reduction/Full interior

Using this definition my old car (2007 turbo spec v) went 12.8 @ 111 at Atco NJ w/ 2.0 60'.

For me, a quick street car ET (assuming we're talking FWD turbo cars) is high 12's low 13's based on the above criteria. If you can run faster and still fit those guidelines you would have a fast street car.

IMO of course.

If we're talking all cars, or including RWD cars the scale goes lower into the times/higher into traps to be relevant, but I think designating class/rule guidelines is important.

If you trailer your car, use race gas blends, run race tires, or remove your entire interior you are no longer a street car IMO.
same line of thinking here, but I would allow for a drag radial so long as it has reasonable rain grooves (nitto 555r for example as opposed to MT ET street).
also no problem with trailered in car so long as the trailered in condition was streetable. no problem with guys saving themselves setup time/breakdown worries.

my issue becomes when guys "street" a car in, then change the wheels/tires, gut a bunch of stuff, add vp116, etc.
 
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