Ford Focus ST Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
688 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just made a first major step in my eventually epic stereo system in my 2015 ST3. I know this has been done before if nobody cares I will get the message when nobody replies. I learned alot doing this & hopefully others will too.

My system is designed with future upgradeability in mind. Currently it just adds a subwoofer. I made sure to leave it so that I can easily remove the subwoofer & everything would function like stock for the occasion I need storage space, or maybe Ill take my subs & amps out when I sell the car.

You will see I installed some wood to hide the amp, this entire layer can be quickly & easily removed (built it like a jig saw) returning back to stock, but then the amp is in the way.

The LC7i signal wiring: I have the sony sub signal spliced into channel 3. In addition I have the sony rear speaker channel spliced into main channel. Rear signal is spliced exactly after harness out of sony amp. Sub signal spliced on right side wiring heading straight to sub. This is a splice meaning the original speakers continue to be power via sony amp (for now). The rear & sub signals are summed, then my amp has a LPF built in at 80Hz. This is extremely redundant as the rear signal should carry the low end & the sony sub signal was probably already straight 80hz to begin with. Nonetheless this way I know I am sending a FULL signal to my amp, I do not trust sony left full low signal untouched.

In the future: I will splice into sony front speakers which will become the main channel, then I will move the rears to channel 2. I will sum 1 & 3 but not 1 & 2 to preserve fading. This is when I am ready to start amping the other speakers. At this time I am planning to use front woofer signal & ignore front tweeter.

The LC7i power wiring: I ran its own dedicated 12volt connection straight to battery to guarantee a strong supply of power so that I know the LC7i can feed a strong signal to the amp. I also turned off GTO & ran a remote, it is more work but worth it in my opinion. I used an add a fuse in front fuse box then ran that to the back, more work again but cleaner than getting at a trunk fuse.


LC7i
LC7i - AudioControl

Jl Audio 12" Basswedge
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-RtUKjMArOYH/p_136112W0V3/JL-Audio-CP112-W0v3.html

Pioneer GM-3400T
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-BCajxPXDid4/p_130GM3400T/Pioneer-GM-3400T.html

I got the sub & amp used on kijiji.ca for $100 CAD. Then LC7i from amazon for about $180 CAD.

I have the amp gain at barely over minimum with the LC7i tuned for just below its maximum output. The amount of noise I am making is insane for mere 175 watt amp (bridged output), I attribute the high amount of volume to LC7i outputting a strong signal.

Hope you guys enjoyed this. Send me some yays or nays. Here are some photos.


Edit:
Removed OEM subwoofer, installed amp there using the woofers mounting points getting rid of that layer of wood I built to hide the amp. Looking forward to putting a more impressive amplifier in place.
View attachment 278106
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,291 Posts
I just made a first major step in my eventually epic stereo system in my 2015 ST3. I know this has been done before if nobody cares I will get the message when nobody replies. I learned alot doing this & hopefully others will too.

My system is designed with future upgradeability in mind. Currently it just adds a subwoofer. I made sure to leave it so that I can easily remove the subwoofer & everything would function like stock for the occasion I need storage space, or maybe Ill take my subs & amps out when I sell the car.

You will see I installed some wood to hide the amp, this entire layer can be quickly & easily removed (built it like a jig saw) returning back to stock, but then the amp is in the way.

The LC7i signal wiring: I have the sony sub signal spliced into channel 3. In addition I have the sony rear speaker channel spliced into main channel. Both signals are spliced where they continue to go to factory speakers. The signals are summed, then my amp has a LPF built in at 80Hz. This is extremely redundant as the rear signal should carry the low end & the sony sub signal was probably already straight 80hz. Nonetheless this way I know I am sending a FULL signal to my amp. Eventually I will get at the sony front speakers which will become the main channel, then I will move the rears to channel 2. I will sum 1 & 3 but not 1 & 2 to preserve fading. This is when I am ready to start amping the other speakers. At this time I am planning to use front woofer signal & ignore front tweeter, is that what is recommended?

The LC7i power wiring: I ran its own dedicated 12volt connection straight to battery to guarantee a strong supply of power so that I know the LC7i can feed the strongest signal to the amp. I also turned off GTO & a remote, it is more word but recommended in my opinion. This way things remain stock until the power is actually turned on. I used a add a fuse in front fuse box then ran that to the back, I know this was the hard way but it seemed the cleaner than getting at trunk fuse.


LC7i
LC7i - AudioControl

Jl Audio 12" Basswedge
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-RtUKjMArOYH/p_136112W0V3/JL-Audio-CP112-W0v3.html

Pioneer GM-3400T
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-BCajxPXDid4/p_130GM3400T/Pioneer-GM-3400T.html

I got the sub & amp used on kijiji.ca for $100 CAD. Then LC7i from amazon for about $180 CAD.

I have the amp gain near minimum, & LC7i tuned for near its maximum & that is very loud. I have a tonne of head room where my under power amp can be turned up quite a bit still & even upgraded. Its amazing how brilliantly loud the LC7i has set this car to become.

Hope you guys enjoyed this. Send me some yays or nays. Here are some photos.

View attachment 276138
View attachment 276154
View attachment 276162
View attachment 276146
View attachment 276170
Although, not my cup of earl grey, I really appreciate you making this helpful thread. It's a nice "hey we have a great community" thread, over the "i never google search anything, and need to be spoonfed" threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
I'm sure that sounds a lot better, even JL's entry level subs still sound great.and yeah, with the strong signal the AudioControl units put out, the amps gain rarely needs to be much over its lowest setting.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
688 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Sounds amazingly better. I can run with stock stereo with ignition off (amp & LC7i not remoted on) honestly stock is not bad sounding at all in my opinion, even in direct comparison. But once the amp turns on the sound of real sub kicks in and its certainly a difference. I invested about 20 hours of time for that, totally worth it.

Sticking to a budget (career is just starting to get going) I rarely buy new speakers. This is second time I bought used JL Audio subwoofers & I am incredibly impressed once again. All the reviews note I am getting incredible bang for buck.

My brother in law is actually an experienced audio technician (mostly home/commercial audio), maybe we were not communicating right one time because he had honestly had never heard of JL Audio. I find that odd because they are an outstanding brand in my opinion.

I am very likely to go with JL Audio the day i am prepared to buy brand new & high end.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
maybe we were not communicating right one time because he had honestly had never heard of JL Audio.
it must be that his experience is limited to mostly HT stuff, because you cant be in the car audio world and not have heard of JL, that would be like saying that youre a "car guy" but have never heard of Chevy or a Corvette... lol

they are extremely well built, and while expensive, definitely well worth the price of admission
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
688 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Mounted the amp much nicer today & got rid of huge wate of space layer of wood. I tried everything but had to give up on keeping OEM sub, removed completedly and put one of the AC-LGDs I bought a while ago to work. Seems to be working nicely.

Splicing the signal vs removing sub speaker altogether and using a AC-LGD I first noticed the bass was quieter. This was not a problem as both the LC7i and the amp had lots of room to be turned up. Seems to sound cleaner now.

Gonna eventually carpet the mounting platofrm. I really enjoy that I have gained some trunk space back. I made this large enough to eventually mount a 5ch amp.
Vehicle Trunk Car Vehicle door Automotive exterior


Tire Automotive tire Auto part Automotive exterior Vehicle


Wood Workbench Hardwood Floor Tool


Wood Table Plywood Automotive exterior Floor
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
688 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Installed the ACR-1 (bass remote knob) today and I am very happy with the final result. Taking front lower centre console of my 2015 apart was not actually that challenging, no clips were broken & everything went back together like factory.

Miniature ACR-1 review:
The product feels impressively sturdy, using a thick painted metal shell. In addition the LED light is bright looking/feeling the same as other OEM cabin lights. The knob is also sturdy, smooth and everything you would expect. Overall build quality of this product is high, very high. This seems to be in line with other Audio Control products.

I was under impression the LED light would change from yellow to red and also go from dim to bright as the bass level increases. I think I see the dimming effect when going from min to full, but the light stays yellow. Maybe I am not pumping enough juice to get to red & somehow the ACR-1 knows that. Will report back.

Would recommend to a friend.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Center console


Vehicle Aircraft carrier Naval ship Warship Battleship
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Why not put the amp/lc7i under the floor panel like the stock st3 does?
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top