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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm quite fond of the stock exhaust tip (I know cp-e offers HexTip, though it's missing the depth of the stock).

Has anyone looked at chopping the tip off and welding it to the new aftermarket exhaust (I have the Cobb CBE in mind).

Based on images I can't see why this would work, though have zero knowledge about welding.
 

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I'm quite fond of the stock exhaust tip (I know cp-e offers HexTip, though it's missing the depth of the stock).

Has anyone looked at chopping the tip off and welding it to the new aftermarket exhaust (I have the Cobb CBE in mind).

Based on images I can't see why this would work, though have zero knowledge about welding.
The only issue I could foresee is that the aftermarket systems usually are 3" going into like 4" tips...so if you saw it off and attach the stock one it would probably be a smaller diameter pipe on the stock vs the system you're matching it to.
 

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The stock tip is ugly.... see everyone has an opinion.

It will be a complete waste of your time. why? the stock tip is layers of sheet metal and 2 inlets that are only 2" pipes, attempting to mate 3" to 2" is a joke or modifying the tip to work well with 3" would likely just destroy it.

I spent a bit of time trying to make the stock tip work for a member and after hacking up two stock tips we decided it just was not worth our time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The stock tip is ugly.... see everyone has an opinion.

It will be a complete waste of your time. why? the stock tip is layers of sheet metal and 2 inlets that are only 2" pipes, attempting to mate 3" to 2" is a joke or modifying the tip to work well with 3" would likely just destroy it.

I spent a bit of time trying to make the stock tip work for a member and after hacking up two stock tips we decided it just was not worth our time.
Haha interesting, I think the round exhausts tips in the hex cutout looks crap.... To each his own I guess :)

Thanks for the input, I didn't realise the inlet pipes were 2" on stock, definitely won't be pursuing this.

Thankksss, had completely forgotten about the JDL exhaust!
 

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I never even had heard of them until last week...not, i am like hmmmmmm
 

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It will be a complete waste of your time. why? the stock tip is layers of sheet metal and 2 inlets that are only 2" pipes, attempting to mate 3" to 2" is a joke or modifying the tip to work well with 3" would likely just destroy it.
It's called a reducer. An alternative would be to run a single pipe from the muffler to the tip and just using the tip as the decorative shell sheet metal. TIG welds thin metal like this very easily without damaging it.

OP: Most, if not all, of the aftermarket offerings leave the muffler at one size (usually 3") and taper up to a larger tip (usually 4"). This is completely useless power wise and only function is to produce a larger sound (which I do not want). Furthermore, a catback is only going to flow its weakest link (smallest choke point). If it's a true 3" catback, that point is either at the tightest bend radius/greatest angle or inside the muffler (not to mention if you are still running the factory downpipe and/or cat. Just look at that picture of the Borla exhaust and try and tell me that smaller tips would be a choke point.

I want the stock tip back to be more stealth to both cops and other enthusiasts - I also think the dual round tip just looks dumb with the factory 15 rear bumper I have...honestly I wouldn't mind finding a focus titanium guy to swap bumpers with and really flying under the radar. These are just images I pulled of the internet to edit quickly as to what I plan to do. I currently have a Flowmaster (aka DroneMaster) on the car that I can't wait to swap for something more practical like the Borla, but I also gave the option for someone with a Milltek-type rear muffler that is set up like the stock one (single in dual center side out versus most aftermarket offerings single in single out and then bends).

I do not claim to own any of these images. I ripped them off the internet and quickly MS Paint edited them for demonstration purposes. Stock. Once cut square to the back face of the tip (the stock muffler-tip pipes are on a slight angle up/down and side/side) decide if you are going to use reducers to mate to the factory dual 2" or you are going to just gut the tip and use it as a decorative shell.


Borla or any other type that has a single pipe out the muffler and Y's at the tip


Milltek or any similar type that has dual exits out the side of muffler...carry both to the stock tip shell or Y them together and carry that single pipe to it. The Milltek is a 3" single inlet catback. 3.00" ID tube estimated cfm is 747. Tapering down to the dual 2" tip (if you chose to do that and not either Y their exits into a 3" to the tip or carry their tips to the stock gutted tip shell), would cost you 111 theoretical maximum cfm (2x318). If you think in the real world you are flowing 747 at the entrance to the catback, though, well, lol. If you care that much about horsepower, run a straight 3" off the turbo with the largest diameter radius single bend you can and just enough pipe to get accurate wideband readings then open to air.


If anyone would like to donate (read: sell me) their stock tips where I marked the cut line, PM me and I'll make a how to. Hell, I'll even do it on this Flowmaster if I can't find a Borla quickly - cutting off these ricer trumpet tips should shut this stupid thing up some. I hope the pics give other people with access to their stock CB and want to do this the motivation/ideas to do it. I won't lie though, that JBL is a nice piece, V bands and all.
 

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It's called a reducer. An alternative would be to run a single pipe from the muffler to the tip and just using the tip as the decorative shell sheet metal. TIG welds thin metal like this very easily without damaging it.

OP: Most, if not all, of the aftermarket offerings leave the muffler at one size (usually 3") and taper up to a larger tip (usually 4"). This is completely useless power wise and only function is to produce a larger sound (which I do not want). Furthermore, a catback is only going to flow its weakest link (smallest choke point). If it's a true 3" catback, that point is either at the tightest bend radius/greatest angle or inside the muffler (not to mention if you are still running the factory downpipe and/or cat. Just look at that picture of the Borla exhaust and try and tell me that smaller tips would be a choke point.

I want the stock tip back to be more stealth to both cops and other enthusiasts - I also think the dual round tip just looks dumb with the factory 15 rear bumper I have...honestly I wouldn't mind finding a focus titanium guy to swap bumpers with and really flying under the radar. These are just images I pulled of the internet to edit quickly as to what I plan to do. I currently have a Flowmaster (aka DroneMaster) on the car that I can't wait to swap for something more practical like the Borla, but I also gave the option for someone with a Milltek-type rear muffler that is set up like the stock one (single in dual center side out versus most aftermarket offerings single in single out and then bends).

I do not claim to own any of these images. I ripped them off the internet and quickly MS Paint edited them for demonstration purposes. Stock. Once cut square to the back face of the tip (the stock muffler-tip pipes are on a slight angle up/down and side/side) decide if you are going to use reducers to mate to the factory dual 2" or you are going to just gut the tip and use it as a decorative shell.


Borla or any other type that has a single pipe out the muffler and Y's at the tip


Milltek or any similar type that has dual exits out the side of muffler...carry both to the stock tip shell or Y them together and carry that single pipe to it. The Milltek is a 3" single inlet catback. 3.00" ID tube estimated cfm is 747. Tapering down to the dual 2" tip (if you chose to do that and not either Y their exits into a 3" to the tip or carry their tips to the stock gutted tip shell), would cost you 111 theoretical maximum cfm (2x318). If you think in the real world you are flowing 747 at the entrance to the catback, though, well, lol. If you care that much about horsepower, run a straight 3" off the turbo with the largest diameter radius single bend you can and just enough pipe to get accurate wideband readings then open to air.


If anyone would like to donate (read: sell me) their stock tips where I marked the cut line, PM me and I'll make a how to. Hell, I'll even do it on this Flowmaster if I can't find a Borla quickly - cutting off these ricer trumpet tips should shut this stupid thing up some. I hope the pics give other people with access to their stock CB and want to do this the motivation/ideas to do it. I won't lie though, that JBL is a nice piece, V bands and all.
Buys 3" exhaust.... wants stock tip so restricts it down to 1.5".... Sounds logical... I guess it is two 1.5" which is 3" if I am doing my math right.

only joking though. You plan is sound and looks like you have put a lot of thought into putting those ugly things back on the car
 

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Buys 3" exhaust.... wants stock tip so restricts it down to 1.5".... Sounds logical... I guess it is two 1.5" which is 3" if I am doing my math right.

only joking though. You plan is sound and looks like you have put a lot of thought into putting those ugly things back on the car
joke taken. I was under the impression that the stock exhaust muffler exits were dual 2"?
I would only be using the tip as a gutted shell appearance piece in my design, though.
you don't happen to have any salvageable tips left do you?
 

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joke taken. I was under the impression that the stock exhaust muffler exits were dual 2"?
I would only be using the tip as a gutted shell appearance piece in my design, though.
you don't happen to have any salvageable tips left do you?
oh maybe it is 2" it has been a long time since I pulled my stock system and had the whole system sent to scrap steel.

You should be able to post in the "want" section. someone will have one.
 

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I have no clue what retailers will offer this for, but buying direct and at their MSRP price point, I think it's an overpriced system for its features. Specifically the joints. They use a slip joint and a collar. Where as JDL uses a v-band for its joints. Can't tell on the Thermal unit, but the tip on the JDL system is also adjustable for that perfect look or perfect lack of soot on your rear bumper. Ultimately, JDL goes the extra mile on details for their systems. Have you seen some of their header work for other platforms? Pure art. They used to be in Militek price range, but lately their pricing is brought back down to a reasonable level for most.
 

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I have no clue what retailers will offer this for, but buying direct and at their MSRP price point, I think it's an overpriced system for its features. Specifically the joints. They use a slip joint and a collar. Where as JDL uses a v-band for its joints. Can't tell on the Thermal unit, but the tip on the JDL system is also adjustable for that perfect look or perfect lack of soot on your rear bumper. Ultimately, JDL goes the extra mile on details for their systems. Have you seen some of their header work for other platforms? Pure art. They used to be in Militek price range, but lately their pricing is brought back down to a reasonable level for most.
Same features?

JDL is $899 ($919 if you want black)
https://jdlautodesign.net/shop/focus-st-exhaust/#prettyPhoto

Couldn't find any reseller for JDL

Thermal R&D = $684.99

Thermal R&D B904-C904: Cat-Back Exhaust System 2012-15 Ford Focus ST 4-Door | JEGS

I agree the V-bands are great but Borla (and many others) use slip on and I don't really see the problem with either system... the price is the biggest difference.
 
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