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Discussion Starter #1
I currently run gs and have 1 more autox I can run this season, but am interested in sth for next season.

Currently car has
Strano rear bar on stiff
TB adjustable endlinks
Moda md22 17x8 wheels
Bridgestone re71r 255x40x17

Waiting to go on
Thermal r&d exhaust
Mountune air filter
Rs Airbox lid
Tb traction bar

Planned to buy
Thermal r&d catted downpipe
Jst stage 1 tune

Here is where I need help:

Suspension
What's the best set up for autocross? Do i need to sell the strano and get a bigger bar once I upgrade?
Coilovers or strut/spring?
If coilovers which? (Looking at the jbr)
If not is it swift/b8s? That's as much as a a coilover with camber plate...
Do i need a front bar if I get a bigger rear bar?
What about additional chassis braces from tb etc...

Any help on what would give me the best chance in sth for 2019 is greatly appreciated
 

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All dependent on what characteristics you prefer while driving. For suspension, I would not go with the JBR coilovers as they have the improper spring rates ( soft rear and stiff front). If you want to maintain the factory balance, i would suggest going with something like the FEAL, ground control, YCW, or the megan racing specd for the FoRS. Bilstein B8s and swifts are a good compromise of streetable performance, however front camber is going to be your limiting factor once you are competitive. Front and rear bars are subjective in my opinion and is again up to you on how you want the car to behave.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I'm getting mo eyes and gathering parts whil I'm TDY gor mest season, pretty sure I have settled on ground control coilover and camber plate system, GC says 525# front 600# rear, does everyone agree with that? I think xrjoe uses 525 and 650? How does this perform/ ride on the street?

Also I want a LSD but realistically wont get one for awhile due to money, and the fact I only have 7000 miles, I think I would like to wait until I need a clutch and do it all at once...with that said since we can tune in STH has anyone run the stratified traction control system? Everything I read talks about it for straight line, does it work well for autocross until I get an LSD?
 

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I recently switched over to a 9k front, 12k rear and now back down to a 11k rear and on the street, it actually isn't that bad. It can be stiff on rough roads, but it's still bearable. As far as tunes go, yes as of now they are still legal in STH.
 

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I'm still stock with TB End Links on the way. But my intentions, in order are:

GS:
- TB End Links (because of the group buy)
- Wheels and 200tw tires
- Brake Pads & Fluid
- Rear sway bar (probably on soft, I want to settle the back end while trail braking)
- cat-back exhaust (something pretty mild, just to get rid of some weight)
STH:
- RMM
- Possibly a front sway bar (depends on how it feels without)
- Front and rear shock/strut bars
- Fortune Auto Coil-Overs (I used to live a few miles from their HQ)
- Mountune tune

Are the traction bars, and other chassis bracing legal in STH or do they put you in some type of prepared class? I can't seem to find anything related to them on the cheat sheet.

https://dk1xgl0d43mu1.cloudfront.net/user_files/scca/downloads/000/019/200/2017-01-18-Quick-Reference-of-Category-Allowances.pdf?1485463261
 

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I'm still stock with TB End Links on the way. But my intentions, in order are:

GS:
- TB End Links (because of the group buy)
- Wheels and 200tw tires
- Brake Pads & Fluid
- Rear sway bar (probably on soft, I want to settle the back end while trail braking)
- cat-back exhaust (something pretty mild, just to get rid of some weight)
STH:
- RMM
- Possibly a front sway bar (depends on how it feels without)
- Front and rear shock/strut bars
- Fortune Auto Coil-Overs (I used to live a few miles from their HQ)
- Mountune tune

Are the traction bars, and other chassis bracing legal in STH or do they put you in some type of prepared class? I can't seem to find anything related to them on the cheat sheet.

https://dk1xgl0d43mu1.cloudfront.net/user_files/scca/downloads/000/019/200/2017-01-18-Quick-Reference-of-Category-Allowances.pdf?1485463261
The way that SCCA rules are written is that if it isn't stated, then it isn't legal. Chassis bracing is very limited in street touring, meaning that if the car came with a strut bar, you can replace it with something similar, but nothing that changes the original design i.e. of the car came with a single bar, you can't replace it with a 3 point. Even rmm are subject to this rule and must be of OEM in nature, (which most are, unless you replace it with a solid mount).

Traction bars like the TB single bar are ok, but their newer design is not as it is viewed as a bar that ties in multiple points.
 

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The way that SCCA rules are written is that if it isn't stated, then it isn't legal. Chassis bracing is very limited in street touring, meaning that if the car came with a strut bar, you can replace it with something similar, but nothing that changes the original design i.e. of the car came with a single bar, you can't replace it with a 3 point. Even rmm are subject to this rule and must be of OEM in nature, (which most are, unless you replace it with a solid mount).

Traction bars like the TB single bar are ok, but their newer design is not as it is viewed as a bar that ties in multiple points.
In the link it say "Strut bars, tie bars – add or replace (2-point only)." I'm not entirely sure what a "tie bar" is, but my interpretation is that front/rear shock/strut tower braces are OK as long as they are 2-point. But the front/rear traction bar is not, unless that is what a "tie bar" is.

This makes me miss CAM, where you can pretty much do anything within reason
 

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In the link it say "Strut bars, tie bars – add or replace (2-point only)." I'm not entirely sure what a "tie bar" is, but my interpretation is that front/rear shock/strut tower braces are OK as long as they are 2-point. But the front/rear traction bar is not, unless that is what a "tie bar" is.

This makes me miss CAM, where you can pretty much do anything within reason
Tie bar is referring to lower tie bars, i.e. traction bar. I hate CAM btw, not because of the cars, but because the SCCA let's them do whatever the F*ck they want in comparison to street touring. Street Touring during it's original inception, was supposed to be like CAM for all the tuner type cars, but as you can already see, you know how that went.....lol
 

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Tie bar is referring to lower tie bars, i.e. traction bar. I hate CAM btw, not because of the cars, but because the SCCA let's them do whatever the F*ck they want in comparison to street touring. Street Touring during it's original inception, was supposed to be like CAM for all the tuner type cars, but as you can already see, you know how that went.....lol
Well that answers that, I guess I've never owned a car where that was really a thing.

The thing with CAM is that since the class is so wide, that cars with all the allowable upgrades have a soft PAX, but cars that are barely out of Street have a pretty difficult PAX factor.

I've been saying that there should be a class like CAM for other cars, we can call it TUN for 'tuner.' It would be a great place to house all the cars people want to build for the street, but also want to autocross. As it sits now, you really have to be careful with how you mod your car unless you are OK with being wildly outclassed in PAX.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have the same understanding for the traction bar, and only have the 2 point on mine...I really like the fortune auto minus spring rates....I feel like you will kill the cars balance unless you install a really stiff rear bar
 

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If you order from the Fortune Auto website you can select from a number of front spring rates, as well as a couple other upgrades, and you may even be able to do the rear spring rates if you contact them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you order from the Fortune Auto website you can select from a number of front spring rates, as well as a couple other upgrades, and you may even be able to do the rear spring rates if you contact them.

I have contacted them they said a 5.3 is the only they offer in the rear
 

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I have the same understanding for the traction bar, and only have the 2 point on mine...I really like the fortune auto minus spring rates....I feel like you will kill the cars balance unless you install a really stiff rear bar
Yup. I like the fortune autos, but their spring rates do kill it, which is why I'm on the suspension I'm currently running. Introducing a really stiff rear bar only masks other issues present when running the stiffer front/softer rear rates, especially during auto x.
 

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I have contacted them they said a 5.3 is the only they offer in the rear
Yup this. It is because they use a barrel OEM type spring, and their perch design doesn't allow for the use for a 2.5 ID spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I got a few more parts now and need an update on advice...
Installed:
Mountune air filter with rs airbox lid
Thermal r&d turboback 3" exhaust
Tb performance traction bar
Tb performance rear swaybar endlinks
Strano rear sway bar
17x8 mods md22 rims with 255x40r17 re71r
Purchased awaiting install:
Jst tune with AP
1 step colder plugs
Damon rear motor mount
Mfactory lsd

Here is where I need help I spent my money for suspension on the lsd

Am I better off staying on stock suspension(7500 miles fyi) for a season or so then getting the ground control coilovers or....would getting swift springs now on stock struts be worth it?

List I also still want to get:
Suspension?
Radiator
Oil cooler
Intercooler(fingers crossed)
The rest if the tb performance braces
Short shifter
Shift knob
Brake pads?
Stainless lines
Motul rbf600 fluid

One last question on the intake, would I be better off going to aem filter with the closed airbox lid. and a snorkel as far as trying to keep things as cold as possible?

As usual I appreciate all the advice as I slowly fund, build, and learn!
 

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The stock shocks will blow out quick with lowering springs under autox conditions. I started out with eibach pro kits on stock dampers and they lasted maybe 7k. I would wait until you could do the GCs and some camber plates as that is what is going to be your limiting factor suspension wise.
 

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Not that I'm going to STH soon, but I like to daydream, er, plan ahead... what is the best rim for the class?
 

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Not that I'm going to STH soon, but I like to daydream, er, plan ahead... what is the best rim for the class?
This is subjective but long story short, anything that can fit a 265/35/18 on an 18x9 +45 to 48 offset. Wheels are tough to find for this platform in the above size/offset, if you are trying to stuff the widest tire. They are out there but again choices are limited
 

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This is subjective but long story short, anything that can fit a 265/35/18 on an 18x9 +45 to 48 offset. Wheels are tough to find for this platform in the above size/offset, if you are trying to stuff the widest tire. They are out there but again choices are limited
Yes, judging by what I've seen listed, it sounds like a "custom" 3-piece rim is called for to keep weight down.
 

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