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I know what the e-diff is but I thought it was a part of stability control or st last was turned off with it.
Default setting has traction control + stability control + e-diff. When autocrossing on a grippy surface, TC causes a bog exiting corners because the computer doesn't see enough traction when you're going full-tilt, so we always want to turn it off, to be in Sport Mode, in dry conditions. It is not a problem during normal driving.

Sport Mode is stability control + e-diff. You enter Sport mode by pressing the button for a second and letting go. Stability control is useful, particularly under slick conditions, because it keeps you from spinning. Unfortunately, it isn't helpful when you're slaloming; it lets you make the first turn, but when you try to rapidly turn back, stability control kicks in and says "you're unstable, so I'm going to straighten you out" and you just go straight past that next slalom cone! Generally speaking, if you need stability control for autocross, you've still got some suspension tuning to work out, however keep stability control in mind when conditions are slick.

Super Secret Mode is just the e-diff. You enter Super Secret Mode by holding down the button until the second screen is displayed and then let up. The e-diff uses the front brakes to reduce wheelspin and it can't be disabled. With a stock FoST, you can easily boil the brake fluid in less than 5 minutes of autox due to the e-diff being worked too hard. More horsepower used injudiciously will only boil the brake fluid sooner. The hot brakes will also cause undesireable tire pressure increases. A seasoned driver will try very hard not to let wheelspin happen because that means you're overpowering the brakes by applying throttle. Thus an LSD is highly desireable, because it removes the thermal load on the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
For sure. It’ll sell quick on here. Let me know when you put it up for sale. I don’t think you’d ship because most people don’t with an exhaust, but if you do I’d be interested.

The GTX2867R should be able to make 450whp. I’ve seen it hit 440whp with ideal fuel and temperatures. I don’t see 450whp being a tall order. Especially with sufficient timing on E50 and 27-28psi give or take.


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Hey man are you still interested in that exhaust?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
14 Feb 21 Valentines Day Update:

OK so, I let this thread get away from me a bit. I made a lot of changes. Not too long after my last update my friend talked me into pulling the trigger on the aux fuel kit. I also decided to spring for some coil overs (no pun intended) as well as finally getting the wide body kit. I opted for a set of Avid.1 AV-06 wheels to go with the flares. Aux and GA are installed and currently being tuned, and the fender flares are on the way. It should be noted that the reason I decided to upgrade my clutch is because when JST turned my boost up to 28psi, it proved to be too much for the stock clutch and it failed while brake boosting. Hopefully all should be complete within a few weeks and I'll be able to put my car on the dyno. I am also looking forward to autocrossing my car this summer. The next thing I've got my eye on is one of these AUTO-BLiP things that essentially introduce automatic rev-matching to your car. Yes I know I could stop being useless and just learn to heel-toe but this is much easier and honestly a superior solution as tuned properly it should reduce wear on the drivetrain and will also allow me to focus solely on braking when approaching a turn. links to everything I added are on the mods list in OP. Here are some pictures from my clutch install and transmission build:

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
27 Feb 21 Update:
I went to the shop today to test fit the wheels for the wide body kit. I was worried that adding 3 inches of poke would mean alot of cutting to the front of the fender, but to my surprise it actually fits as is. Will probably trim a little bit for some clearance. Obviously gonna have to cut the top of my fenders, but I'm thinking I might also raise the front suspension and maybe attempt to lower the rear. We'll see how it comes out. Pictures below.
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I love the racing stripe. Beautiful build thus far. I guess one day I'll be doing a clutch as well. Looks daunting.
 

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@tclay following, nice build. Have had my '17 FoST stock for 2 years and bout to go down the rabbit hole. Sidenote: I did my time at Fort Hood in 2002-2005.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
15 Jul 21 Update:
Welp, she's broken. Some of you may have seen some of my other threads, but when I was test driving my new LSD, I cracked the head. The good news is the wide body kit is finished! Pictures of that below. Anyway, I'm replacing the engine due to this cracked head. I decided to go with a built engine from mountune. I'm also upgrading the MAP sensors, and upgrading to a 3P EWG setup. I'm debating adding some side motor mounts to that list but if I go that route it will be added to the thread in the next update. Due to the built engine and upgraded sensors, ill be telling Brian to let the turbo rip, so whatever I can squeeze out of this setup I will. Dyno sheets are coming, we'll see what she makes.
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
@tclay following, nice build. Have had my '17 FoST stock for 2 years and bout to go down the rabbit hole. Sidenote: I did my time at Fort Hood in 2002-2005.
I'm sorry you had to go through that back then. For a place that is supposed to be so "Great," this place really does suck. Thanks for reminding me to update my thread lol
 

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I'm sorry you had to go through that back then. For a place that is supposed to be so "Great," this place really does suck. Thanks for reminding me to update my thread lol
:LOL: Definitely NOT a great place! Damn that sucks about the cracked head. The bright side being you get a new engine with built internals though 💪
 

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Do you believe the cracked head was caused by the ATP turbo elbow? Any plans to go to a different turbo setup?
 

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I have no idea. I dont fully underatand how or why it would cause an issue like that. I'm not particularly keen to buy a new turbo though...
The ATP elbow's opening is bigger than the exhaust port, allowing the exhaust gas to swirl and eddy back against exposed edges of the port causing it to heat excessively and possibly crack, that is, if I understand it correctly.
 
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