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Life is busy sometimes. I hear ya. Just curious to see how the install is going.

I have been working on my audio (ST1) for last 3 afternoons because I got tired of the muddy sounding stock speakers, whenever any volume is used. I just couldn't take it anymore.

Will keep my eyes open for the update, thanks.
 

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20161208_163558.jpg

My setup
 

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This thread helped me the most with my install (2017 ST1 2 weeks old) the car sounds 1000000 times better with the amp and sub installed. THANK YOU!
 

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I am currently in the process of installing a single twelve inch 600 watt KICKER with the KICKER 800 watt amp/diverter. The information on this thread is definitely the most informational and I will definitely be copying your technique for I have no clue on how to even tackle this. I got all 4 KICKER 300 watt 6.5 inch door speakers in today. There wasn't a huge difference in sound quality or bass quality. So if you have any advice on why this is it would definitely be much appreciated I'm sure the sub will help but I was really disappointed on the outcome. I was curious about what the stock ST1 output for the door speakers were I saw on some threads that the stock speakers were at 75 watts a piece in this case since them wires were maybe only rated for 75 watts could I replace those instead of the whole head unit or maybe they have something to boost amperage to the door speakers. I'm not entirely sure that the sub amp will benefit the door speakers as well. I am sorry if this too some people seems like an illiterate question but again this is my first time working with speakers or sub.
 

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I am currently in the process of installing a single twelve inch 600 watt KICKER with the KICKER 800 watt amp/diverter. The information on this thread is definitely the most informational and I will definitely be copying your technique for I have no clue on how to even tackle this. I got all 4 KICKER 300 watt 6.5 inch door speakers in today. There wasn't a huge difference in sound quality or bass quality. So if you have any advice on why this is it would definitely be much appreciated I'm sure the sub will help but I was really disappointed on the outcome. I was curious about what the stock ST1 output for the door speakers were I saw on some threads that the stock speakers were at 75 watts a piece in this case since them wires were maybe only rated for 75 watts could I replace those instead of the whole head unit or maybe they have something to boost amperage to the door speakers. I'm not entirely sure that the sub amp will benefit the door speakers as well. I am sorry if this too some people seems like an illiterate question but again this is my first time working with speakers or sub.
In a nutshell, ST1 ACM has very low amplifier power, so installing better speakers alone gives little improvement. You need a multichannel amplifier to wake them up.
 

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In a nutshell, ST1 ACM has very low amplifier power, so installing better speakers alone gives little improvement. You need a multichannel amplifier to wake them up.
Thank you very much I'm definitely getting one of those because there literally is little too no difference.
 

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Now my amp for my sub has that crossover built in it. Can I use the same AMP for the door speakers?
Unless you have a multi-channel amp (min 5 channels) you can't. The one shown in the picture (JL-Audio) is a 5-channel unit, designed for powering 4 speakers and a sub. In my case there is also a multi-channel programmable DSP unit which receives the line-level signals from the ACM (the ACM has also been reprogrammed via Forscan to output variable line level, with flat frequency response and no time alignment correction on all 4 chanels).
 

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Unless you have a multi-channel amp (min 5 channels) you can't. The one shown in the picture (JL-Audio) is a 5-channel unit, designed for powering 4 speakers and a sub. In my case there is also a multi-channel programmable DSP unit which receives the line-level signals from the ACM (the ACM has also been reprogrammed via Forscan to output variable line level, with flat frequency response and no time alignment correction on all 4 chanels).
I just talked to this guy and from my understanding he said that an LC2i will be the best option to bring the kicker door speakers up to speed or a second amp for the door speakers.
 

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I just talked to this guy and from my understanding he said that an LC2i will be the best option to bring the kicker door speakers up to speed or a second amp for the door speakers.
An LC2i is simply an active speaker level to line level converter in order to generate a bass (subwoofer) channel out of the main L/R speaker feeds. It does nothing at all for power/volume going to the main door speakers.
 

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An LC2i is simply an active speaker level to line level converter in order to generate a bass (subwoofer) channel out of the main L/R speaker feeds. It does nothing at all for power/volume going to the main door speakers.
Well the guy at the audio store said that would be my best option other than a second amp for the door speakers. He said instead of getting the same amperage to the new door speakers that I installed the LC2I what increase the amperage and bring out the full quality of the the door speakers. He's also the one who originally told me to plug the LOC into the back speakers lol. I should have listened but nope 😂. Would have saved me time and heart ache.
 
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