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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So as my St1 reaches its 5th Birthday (Feb 2nd) I have finally decided to upgrade the factory system which I have always wanted to do since day 1. My problem is that I really don't want a sub enclosure taking up hatch space--- I'm old, I have a kid with more planned and I actually use my hatch space. So what are my options...? I have already purchased two sets of the Infinity pr6500cs components. Next step will be a lc7i and 5 channel amp to power doors and a sub. The sub is the part I can't decide on.

I am leaning heavily towards this Pioneer shallow mount as my sub. Before you bass heads freak out--- the reasoning behind this is because this sub is shallow enough to be installed down firing and still fit under the rear cargo cover next to the spare. I am really just looking to improve the ST1 system and add better sound all around. I am not looking to vibrate windows and blow off door panels with face melting bass.

Another option is to go with a 'real' 8" in a pre-fabbed enclosure mounted in the same location with a Dayton 8" Ultimax. If I recess the sub box into the floor by removing the foam tray, this would take up minimal space. The sub box would only be 12.5x12x10.

Third option would be bite the bullet and go for the JL Stealthbox, however I don't really feel like getting divorced right now.

Opinions?
 

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Of course, any sub is better than no sub. That pioneer isn't too bad but it is very light duty and doesn't have a lot of output, you will want to be very careful what amp you hook it up to as it can't handle a lot of power before it blows (150w Rms @4 ohms). Also I'm not a huge fan of most 8" shallow subs. If it were me, I'd consider building (or having built) a box to replace the foam next to the spare tire for something a little stronger. Again, it would totally depend on what amp you are going to use. But even if you went with something like a Kicker CompRT (another shallow mount sub) their 8" can handle twice the power handling (300w Rms @ 2 ohm or 4 ohm is also available) but there would be no problem getting one of their 10"s(400w rms) or 12"s(500w rms) to fit for a little deeper sound and a little more power handling. 150w on an 8" isn't too bad to add to an otherwise factor system, but once you replace the speakers and add an amp to them, it's going to have a hard time keeping up and not getting drowned out.

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I went with a MTX 3510-04S in a custom box that lives to the right of the spare tire under the hatch floor (down firing). Using a mono amp for the sub and the little Alpine 4 channel for the doors. Not going to win any competitions, but light years ahead of the stock system with some decent thump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Of course, any sub is better than no sub. That pioneer isn't too bad but it is very light duty and doesn't have a lot of output, you will want to be very careful what amp you hook it up to as it can't handle a lot of power before it blows (150w Rms @4 ohms). Also I'm not a huge fan of most 8" shallow subs. If it were me, I'd consider building (or having built) a box to replace the foam next to the spare tire for something a little stronger. Again, it would totally depend on what amp you are going to use. But even if you went with something like a Kicker CompRT (another shallow mount sub) their 8" can handle twice the power handling (300w Rms @ 2 ohm or 4 ohm is also available) but there would be no problem getting one of their 10"s(400w rms) or 12"s(500w rms) to fit for a little deeper sound and a little more power handling. 150w on an 8" isn't too bad to add to an otherwise factor system, but once you replace the speakers and add an amp to them, it's going to have a hard time keeping up and not getting drowned out.

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A Sub rated for 400wats RMS would not run well with an amp rated to 350watts RMS from the Sub channel, correct?

I was planning on going with the Pioneer GM-D9605 amp. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and go with the 10" or the 12" instead of the 8". The 10 does 300 watts and the 12 does 400 watts. Both of these options could mount against the seat or floor and not take up much space.
 

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I had a sundown SA-8 in my car for a while, ran it ~800 watts and it was stupid loud. But when set lower it was the perfect sub. I designed a box that went below the false floor so it took up less space for the needed volume, worked very well. I will eventually make a new sub setup for my ST but use the E-8 v5 or newer version if one comes out as it will take almost no space at all and I don't need that much bass anyways... BTW, all sundown subs can take about 2x the "rated" power without bottoming out because of the method they use to actually rate them is very strict and conservative. Don't buy pioneer/alpine/kicker or any of that ****, not worth the money. My $200 8inch sub made my friends 2 12" kickers look wimpy, and I designed both boxes.
 

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A Sub rated for 400wats RMS would not run well with an amp rated to 350watts RMS from the Sub channel, correct?

I was planning on going with the Pioneer GM-D9605 amp. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and go with the 10" or the 12" instead of the 8". The 10 does 300 watts and the 12 does 400 watts. Both of these options could mount against the seat or floor and not take up much space.
A sub rated for 400w would be fine with an amp rated 350 as long as it actually put out what it says it does, that's not a huge difference (although personally, I'd rather have more than enough power vs not having enough...) and that amp should be pretty accurate to what's it rated at. If I was running that amp, I'd try to find a 2 ohm final load sub so that you can maximize that am instead of running it at half power.

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I had a sundown SA-8 in my car for a while, ran it ~800 watts and it was stupid loud. But when set lower it was the perfect sub. I designed a box that went below the false floor so it took up less space for the needed volume, worked very well.
Id be interested in a little more info your box. The RE Audio 12" I have is a little larger in this car than I would like. And an 8" SA or X sub has been at the top of my list but had a couple of concerns about it...

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I had a sundown SA-8 in my car for a while, ran it ~800 watts and it was stupid loud. But when set lower it was the perfect sub. I designed a box that went below the false floor so it took up less space for the needed volume, worked very well. I will eventually make a new sub setup for my ST but use the E-8 v5 or newer version if one comes out as it will take almost no space at all and I don't need that much bass anyways... BTW, all sundown subs can take about 2x the "rated" power without bottoming out because of the method they use to actually rate them is very strict and conservative. Don't buy pioneer/alpine/kicker or any of that ****, not worth the money. My $200 8inch sub made my friends 2 12" kickers look wimpy, and I designed both boxes.
I second this. IF you can fit it, I haven’t found a better performing sub for the money. I ran a Sundown SD3 10” in my last truck in a .65cf sealed box and it was deafening (loved it). Sadly, their shallowest sub is right around 6”, and I only had 5.75” below the hatch floor for sub and max excursion.

Damn, I miss that sub.
 

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Sundown sd3 10 will fit into the spare flipped over with a fiberglass box. Few pics floating around of it done.

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Id be interested in a little more info your box. The RE Audio 12" I have is a little larger in this car than I would like. And an 8" SA or X sub has been at the top of my list but had a couple of concerns about it...

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Sorry, don't frequent the forums as much anymore and missed this. What info do you want?
 

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Pull a factory sub out of a junk car. Remove the 8" sub and cut out rings in a progressive manner to build out and larger to accommodate a 10" JL audio sub.
It mounts right up into factory spot. Cut carpet to fit around it and wire it up to a dedicated sub amp with 300 to 500 watts.
Mine sounds fabulous with this mod and focal 6 1/2" seperates all the way around.
My car is the st3 package 2015 fost so I needed to get a module to make the can bus function normally then installed a Kenwood 6channel amp for the component speakers. The sound is very crisp, freaking loud with zero distortion or clipping and the sub pounds rather hard.
All of the factory functions still work properly like it did when it was new but with 18 times better sound! I attached pics of the components I installed.
The hardest part was running a power wire (4ga) from battery through firewall behind glove box to the hatch factory amp location. The factory amp has been removed.
 

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Isn't that sub now effectively rubbing itself on the carpet when it hits? Seems like it would eventually rub a hole in it. Also it looks terrible lol. Just my opinion I know!
 

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Man, I'd really have to hear that thing to understand why the pioneer is twice the price of kicker's hideaway which outputs 50% more power...

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Never been a huge fan of Kenwood so I don't follow a lot of their gear. I can't speak to that.

That being said, their new DSP/amp looks legit.
 
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