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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!

So I just bought a 2015 ST a couple weeks ago and am loving it. It came from the dealership with a stage 3 Cobb tune as well as the Cobb accessport and full exhaust. Ive been driving it around and I know the car stock should be making around 250hp at 5500rpm or so. Im thinking my ST is not making anywhere close to this. I attached a picture of my access port after a good rip and its saying the max horsepower I put down was 172 while making 16.5psi of boost. and that was for sure around or over 5500rpm. Is there something wrong with my tune? Is the access port not reading accurately?
Like I said I am definitely a noob to performance cars, tuning etc. My old car was a crappy Mazda 3 so I never cared about how much power I was putting down and I realize this may be a stupid question.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

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What gear were you in? Best readings are in 3rd/4th from 2-2.5k rpms full throttle to redline-ish. And make sure traction control is off
Are you sure you're running stage 3 tune? Those numbers are super low and you shouldn't run it without an intercooler and intake according to COBB
I'm tuned thru a different tuner but my max boost reaches 24psi and torque well into the 300's

Most likely you're either not tuned at all, maybe stage 1 at best, or traction control is cutting power. Potentially a boost leak but you'd probably notice that
 

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Boost pressure looks really low for a stage 3 tune.. What octane are you running in it, btw?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What gear were you in? Best readings are in 3rd/4th from 2-2.5k rpms full throttle to redline-ish. And make sure traction control is off
Are you sure you're running stage 3 tune? Those numbers are super low and you shouldn't run it without an intercooler and intake according to COBB
I'm tuned thru a different tuner but my max boost reaches 24psi and torque well into the 300's

Most likely you're either not tuned at all, maybe stage 1 at best, or traction control is cutting power. Potentially a boost leak but you'd probably notice that
I believe I was in 3rd but could have been 2nd gear honestly. I didn't know traction control affected it that much. Ive always had it on. And for the tuning, no I'm not sure if I'm running stage 3.. It is what I was told when I bought it from the dealership and it was one of the sales rep's old car. I haven't even had it checked.
 

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I believe I was in 3rd but could have been 2nd gear honestly. I didn't know traction control affected it that much. Ive always had it on. And for the tuning, no I'm not sure if I'm running stage 3.. It is what I was told when I bought it from the dealership and it was one of the sales rep's old car. I haven't even had it checked.
Not saying they lied, but dealerships will tell you anything to sell the car. When I bought mine, they said it was tuned and had a stage 1 clutch. I came across the previous owner, he said he uninstalled the AP and never replaced the clutch, so the dealership lied to me.

Traction control will totally affect your numbers. When the tires start to spin, it cuts power to the wheels, therefore reducing boost, torque and HP. These cars don't make a ton of HP but torque gains are most noticeable. If turning off traction control doesn't do anything, then you're simply not tuned, in my personal opinion. These cars max out in the 16's for PSI from the factory, like I said mine maxes in the 24's and I still have the factory exhaust (Downpipe, intercooler, intake, and exhaust are most of what tuners look for).
 

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Yeah I'm pretty sure you get an overboost of like 19 PSI on the stock tune. I also max out about 24 PSI sometimes a little bit more 24.4. I'm running an intake, downpipe, catback, fully tightened wastegate preload, fmic, and charge pipes. Fender stage 3 93 octane tune from jst.
 

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These cars max out in the 16's for PSI from the factory, like I said mine maxes in the 24's and I still have the factory exhaust (Downpipe, intercooler, intake, and exhaust are most of what tuners look for).
My stock tuned '18 I saw 20.5 multiple times in 3rd before the intake and new filter (had DP and some exhaust work, though). Thanks to the torque targeting software, however, the best I can get to now is 19.0 in overboost.

If a stock car is only getting into the 16s for boost, it's got a leak somewhere. Heck, my 2017 escape with the twin scroll I've seen 21.5 on, and that's stock also. 16 would be low, especially in 3rd or 4th.
 

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go into your access port in the tuning and programming section at the bottom of the list from the main menu and see what map your running first and fore most imo
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My stock tuned '18 I saw 20.5 multiple times in 3rd before the intake and new filter (had DP and some exhaust work, though). Thanks to the torque targeting software, however, the best I can get to now is 19.0 in overboost.

If a stock car is only getting into the 16s for boost, it's got a leak somewhere. Heck, my 2017 escape with the twin scroll I've seen 21.5 on, and that's stock also. 16 would be low, especially in 3rd or 4th.
I'll have to get it checked out, thanks. Also even it it wasn't tuned it seems like 170HP is super low for a pull at 5500rpm when stock should be 252hp at 5500rpm. I've never had a boosted car, what are some obvious signs for a leak? seems to be running super smooth I feel like I would notice something
 

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I believe I was in 3rd but could have been 2nd gear honestly. I didn't know traction control affected it that much. Ive always had it on. And for the tuning, no I'm not sure if I'm running stage 3.. It is what I was told when I bought it from the dealership and it was one of the sales rep's old car. I haven't even had it checked.
Do you remember what speed you backed out of it at? Were you slightly over the speed limit or way over it? Traction control can make a big difference in the numbers, as well as available traction for that matter (if you have traction control off and end up spinning the tires). I may be wrong, but if the engine doesn't have as much load (which will be reduced with less traction), your boost numbers will be down also. Kind of like free revving doesn't build boost like being in 3rd/4th and mashing it does.
 

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Just so you know, the HP and TQ estimates on the ap are incorrect on any tune except Stage 0. Change those monitors to ignition correction cyl1 and cyl4 especially on an OTS tune.
 

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Just so you know, the HP and TQ estimates on the ap are incorrect on any tune except Stage 0. Change those monitors to ignition correction cyl1 and cyl4 especially on an OTS tune.
Agreed.
When I load my "stage 0" I get 280hp/293tq @18psi. I went "stage 1" and I'm lucky to break 220 for both @22psi. I swear I feel "Stage 0" runs better but I have no proof.

OP: Don't risk blowing your engine, treat it like a stranger gave it to you. Check EVERYTHING including fluids and plugs. 10 minutes of your time looking for mods will answer many questions. If in doubt post more pics, this is like porn, the more the better. ?
 

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Make sure you don’t have the car in the wrong map slot. Hold down the cancel button for about 2 seconds, use +&- to see if there is multiple map slots on the RPM gauge.. Might be in a eco slot. I also see 21-23 psi normally.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Make sure you don’t have the car in the wrong map slot. Hold down the cancel button for about 2 seconds, use +&- to see if there is multiple map slots on the RPM gauge.. Might be in a eco slot. I also see 21-23 psi normally.
Ill check that out! thank you. I haven't fiddled around with the maps or even touched the access port as I assumed it would have been tuned properly when I bought it. Obviously that may have been a mistake
 

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The stock gauges are hooked up to your ecu and are actually only guesstimates. I've upgraded my gauges to real gauges with everything hooked up properly and I was getting 15 psi max in first and second, and 24-25 in third through sixth on a stage 2 cobb tune. Also, it rapidly drops off after around 4k rpm, down to around 13-16 by the time you come around to 6.5k rpm.

Another thing I've noticed with the OTS tunes from cobb is the ignition correction is always negative after 5k rpm, which is really bad, so I would shift before 5k always until you get a real tune from a tuning shop. The ots tunes do the car no justice at all. I got my tune from panda motorworks and it changed the car so entirely. ~$200 bc I had to get step colder plugs too, but it is so worth it.

Before, at 5k rpm my ignition correction was 0 or just starting to go negative, now it jumps from +4 to +5 lol so much better.

Finally, I would absolutely make sure you have an intercooler upgrade if you're running any kind of tune. The stock intercooler is pretty much trash.

Also, if you end up needing an intercooler, do your research before you buy one. There is so much that goes into picking an intercooler and if you dont plan on upgrading the turbo, I'd get a relatively small one to keep turbo lag to a minimum. Bc, while big intercoolers can hold and cool more air, it also takes more air to fill, and can greatly reduce the amount of boost you make at higher rpm since the turbo already cant keep up. The turbo lag much bigger intercoolers cause can also make the car unpredictable and less fun to play in lol
 
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