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So are the 3 PIDs listed RPM, FRP actual and AP % between 3 and 4 shift correct?
Anyone else notice the hesitation after entering fourth and commanding 100% AP?
The HPFP should command much faster than that. It rises drops, the climbs way too slow for that much throttle.
That may even be enough to command a throttle closure to prevent an over lean condition.
J
Thats not a shift thats wheres its cutting out. Slamming the throttle and wastegate shut, and then the ending is just me letting it roll off in gear
 

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Just curious cause I posted about this other quirk my car does and alot of people seemed to have the same quirk. When I first start my car it has a different sound to it almost like a choke or something, well I monitored it during that time before and itll sit at like 1700 rpms with like 1500psi of fuel pressure and after like 10 or 20 secs you can hear the sound change and itll go from 1500psi to like 300psi and still at 1500rpm....so that prolly has nothing to do with it and is probably normal behavoir of the open loop system during warm up.
 

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Did you check for flatspots in the APP sensor? Just a simple car in run but off, ap3 monitoring APP, and very slowly apply throttle from zero to 100, try some whacky application as well. Really verify it's actually reading all the values with no issue.

Good 5 min check. Good to rule out.
When you say dead spots exactly what do you mean cause I think I definitely described a dead spot and believe that I do have some.
 

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When you say dead spots exactly what do you mean cause I think I definitely described a dead spot and believe that I do have some.
Its a variable resistor. So youd be confirming as you move the pedal you see all the numbers from 0-100. If the pedal moves, and the number doesnt change, thats a deadspot. Also wiggle the pedal at 100 percent. Just trying to rule out mechanical fault with the pedal.
 

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So the real issue here is what is triggering the throttle closure? A dead spot in the sensor historically occurs at its most used point. This happens normally at part throttle unless you're @Duece McCracken then it's pedal to the metal. :p

You can mash this to the floor to get a little bit more voltage but this accomplish nothing as the PCM is calibrated to the the AP sensors range as set during that calibration. So rest = .78 VDC and WOT = 4.09 sets the range from 0 - 100% at the PCM. Some people have set WOT after 3/4 throttle via a tune (cough, cough, lazy tuning, cough, cough) in order to increase performance.

Something else is going on here. Are you experiencing any traction or clutch issues? What does boost look like when this happens?

It looks like torque target hits and your like PCM is like
383062


Brick wall.
 

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Yea i see that, i definitely do have dead spots then all over as my percentage increases per pedal my volts dont follow per % . I dont even have a 1% pedal its just not there and my pedal picks up at 2% and it doesnt register 2% until i jump from .78. To .87 or so
 

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Lets revisit this issue, i feel it isn't being absorbed.

Your one pedal has two sensors internally. Got it? Ok.

Your pedal position is merely a suggestion to the PCM. The PCM does whatever the hell it wants. Still following?

So if there is ANY issue with either of these, it will set a code and car will go into limp mode. Did i lose you?

NO CODE, NO APP OR TPS ISSUES!

Sorry about the crappy quality of this photo, but this is from Cobb's tuning class. The top line that is all over the place is actual throttle position that the pcm is commanding. the smooth bottom line is the accelerator pedal input. You can see the pedal is flat to the floor while actual throttle has a HUGE range. (See attatched photo)

Now can we PLEASE move on from the throttle conversation in hopes of actually figuring out the OPs issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Got some sputtering again yesterday, started out great and thought it was finally gone for the 1st 1 hour of driving and then towards the end of my drive after some WOT pulls it started again. Not as bad as previously but the sput sput sput returned while trying to datalog towards the upper 5K RPM in 4th and then disappeared until the next time the fueling groundhog sees his shadow. No CELs were thrown.

There are two logs (drop down menu) with ~ 6 pulls total all mashed together so dont bother to look at the graphs just scroll through the data below it.

datazap.me | STdriver17 | Log 1600871853
 

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Ok guys so i took a long shot and replaced my Evap purge line and believe it or not it seems like that fixed it.
 
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I dunno have any of you that had purge valve sensor issues have it cause drivability issues and misfires?
 

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I did also order a set of MSD in blue to replace the stock ones because they were the ones with the best reviews besides going factory, but because racecar i cant do factory. Lol I dont see that as much in the Focus forum, but it was huge in the Mazda Speed forums...because racecar.
 

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I dunno have any of you that had purge valve sensor issues have it cause drivability issues and misfires?
Yeah, thats normally what happens with the purge valve. It remains open sucking in extra fuel vapor and such, causing misfires and poor idle, etc. Which is the main reason it's replaced. the secondary issue is the gastank deformation.


I did also order a set of MSD in blue to replace the stock ones because they were the ones with the best reviews besides going factory, but because racecar i cant do factory. Lol I dont see that as much in the Focus forum, but it was huge in the Mazda Speed forums...because racecar.
I run the red MSD's. No difference at all. OEM is perfectly fine for like all builds, lol. MSD has had some shaky products in the past here and there, the coilpacks for the ecoboost 2.0/2.3 seem to be just fine though.
 

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My other question about the purge valve was this, i own a 07 mazda speed6 with corksport high flow hpfp internals i installed, same as autotechs for all the vw and audis....its to bad no companies ever made a new piston to replace like those companies did but they are ran sloghtly different, but bpth are hpfp supplying well abpve 2500 at WOT....anyways with all DI cars most people that arent used to it will come to notice the high pressure pump tick pr the injector tick....now im curious after installing this new purge valve im a noticing significantly less ticking which is nice...fuel pressures are still kosher just alil quieter motor it sounds like and i was wondering if anyone who is as superiorly anal and picks up on EVERY LITTLE sound there is and has to look into it like me kinda person has anyone that installed a new purge valve notice that their car sounded quieter, im pretty sure i can understand kinda how, if there is increased preasure in the fuel tank and lines id imagine it would put like a reverse vacuum on the hpfp and make it sound kinda strained or like its working hard, it was just wierd to me...and i know some may think its a placebo effect and i only got to drive the car for a few mins coz im still at the family store and havent closed yet but i will know for sure after a 20 minute ride and park at home, but usually they are their loudest when cold and it just sounded so quiet when i started it and let it idle for a few minutes and i did 2 pulls one in 2nd and one in 3rd both from abput 2800rpms and not a single spit or sputtering, and in that whole 15 mins that it idled and i did those pulls it only accumlated 3 mosfires and that was only from starting and waeming up none during the drive...i dont expect the cold misfires to disappear completely if they less cool, but cold misfires are the devils advocate with this car, its like if you want the car and like it enuff you learn to just ignore the minimal cold misfires, its only when i have misfires when its warm and they are consecutive repeating that worries me. And those i never have other then just when this hose went bad, usually i can do a 2 hr drive and maybe accumulate like 50 or 60, after a valve blasting it takes them down to 20 to 30 for about 15 to 20k
 

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sorry so long, i just try to pile knowledge in when i find issues like this and i will remember all of it and all the lil things that people say and in th le future when pwople have issues im super quock to be able to remember....pixtograpgic memory...as my mom always said...yea when its something you care about or are interested...lol
 

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Final report: no more wot spitting or light light theottle misfires, i did a 10 mile drive with a full warm up cycle and i had 5 misfores total and thats back to normal especiallu after just walnutting my vapves less then 5k ago, i knew somethjng was up when i drove and has 60 misfires in like a 15 minute drive thats what i get after 40k miles of build up. I also wonder how long this purge valve line was bad becoz i had this lil stumble at like 2.5 grand for a long time ans now its gone with this line and when i took it in for the recallxthey were like oh no you dont need it replaced....BS...hopefully driving on it for that long didnt causenany serious issues anywhere else that will pop up in the future.
 

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Update to final result: my mind is blown, i installed that new line and it completely stopped the lil spit it would do right at the beginning of a spool at like 3500rpms it would spit and then push thruough it and thats itd finish the pull, so i did that purge line after already having done the plugs n valves. And after i installed it i started the car and let it sit for almost 10 mins only 5 misfires through the whole warm up, and then i went and did 3 or 4 pulls no spitin, no knock, drove alil more last night still gravy. The smorning back to the bullshit. Im so confused.
 

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The only thing i did yesterday that i think could have effected the issues besides the purge line, is when i was installing the line i had unplugged the map sensor on the intake mani and the temp-map sensor in the intake tube...could one of them have reset when i unplugged them and they caused a placebo effect that it ran ok but once the sensor really got nice and warmed up a few times it starting to fail again? And i would imagine if its any to fail itd be the map in the mani, honestly that all seems like a stretch to me....i just dont understand how itd have been fixed for 12hrs or covered up for 12hrs by a purge valve line being replqced.
 

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Discussion Starter #138
@GotAFoSTnSpeed6 I bought a purge valve couple weeks ago but havent installed it yet. I was going to do it today after reading your success story last night but now i see you updated the post to include the issue has returned. The updated recall flash is supposed to throw a code if the purge valve wasnt working properly so i dont think that is the issue but its worth a try since its a relatively inexpensive part. Maybe run some HEET through the gas tank and see if it helps?
 

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So what you're saying is it's not the Accelerator pedal?

LMAO! 🤣 Sorry it's been a really really ****ty few days at work and I couldn't help myself.

Really glad you got it figured out!
Go enjoy it while the weather is nice.

J
 

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Discussion Starter #140
So what you're saying is it's not the Accelerator pedal?

LMAO! 🤣 Sorry it's been a really really ****ty few days at work and I couldn't help myself.

Really glad you got it figured out!
Go enjoy it while the weather is nice.

J
He's saying it worked for a brief moment in time and now the issue has returned so it's back to the drawing board and the Accelerator Pedal!! :D
 
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