Ford Focus ST Forum banner

1 - 20 of 167 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
It started when i got to the track after warming up and under acceleration, at 1st i thought it may have been the fuel but after running several tanks and now changing out plugs, reflashing to stock and checking all boost hoses I am stumped. I thought it would be a simple fix such as swapping to new plugs but now i need to start looking in another direction.

I've checked & tightened all hose connections, vacuum lines, symposer delete, changed plugs, reflashed to stock tune, compression test showed150 psi per cylinder. I need to do another boost leak test as the last one didnt show anything but i wasnt thorough and didnt use enought psi. 36K miles on motor.

Purge valve? injector? jumped timing? coincidence it started at track under heavy conditions?

No CEL other than a P300 once at the track, I cleared it and it never happened again but it just kept sputtering under acceleration on boost.

Any suggestions?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,358 Posts
It started when i got to the track after warming up and under acceleration, at 1st i thought it may have been the fuel but after running several tanks and now changing out plugs, reflashing to stock and checking all boost hoses I am stumped. I thought it would be a simple fix such as swapping to new plugs but now i need to start looking in another direction.

I've checked & tightened all hose connections, vacuum lines, symposer delete, changed plugs, reflashed to stock tune.

Purge valve? injector? jumped timing?

No CEL other than a P300 once at the track, I cleared it and it never happened again but it just kept sputtering under acceleration on boost.

Any suggestions?
Datalog.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I have one in my NCM thread from the track which should show the sputtering and loss of power, there were 3 datalogs i uploaded from the trackday. I can do another short one tomorrow and post up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
any possibility this could be due to too much dielectric grease on the spark plugs / boot? I usually just coat the tip of the plug but this time followed the Ford manual and filled the bottom end of the boot with it before mounting it back on the plug.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,358 Posts
any possibility this could be due to too much dielectric grease on the spark plugs / boot? I usually just coat the tip of the plug but this time followed the Ford manual and filled the bottom end of the boot with it before mounting it back on the plug.
Well, if you really packed it in there, it could, but it should move to allow contact. So it's a long shot, but and easy thing to test.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well, if you really packed it in there, it could, but it should move to allow contact. So it's a long shot, but and easy thing to test.
Not thinking so much about plug to coil contact but wondering if the dielectric grease is somehow reducing the spark effectiveness by spreading/reducing the path of it over the inside of the boot??
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,358 Posts
Not thinking so much about plug to coil contact but wondering if the dielectric grease is somehow reducing the spark effectiveness by spreading/reducing the path of it over the inside of the boot??
Dielectric grease is non conductive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
i bet that is the problem, that's the only variable here!!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,358 Posts
i bet that is the problem, that's the only variable here!!
You just use a little for corrosion prevention, keep moisture out, and to prevent the coil pack rubber boot from freezing to the plug. I put a dab in the coil pack, then use an old spark plug to spread it internally.

Yeah its not for conductivity at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
You just use a little for corrosion prevention, keep moisture out, and to prevent the coil pack rubber boot from freezing to the plug. I put a dab in the coil pack, then use an old spark plug to spread it internally.

Yeah its not for conductivity at all.
Actually now that i think about it the car ran fine for 4 days other than having a lower boost issue on the FRPP tune so it wouldnt be the grease causing the issue.. back to the drawing board.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,358 Posts
Actually now that i think about it the car ran fine for 4 days other than having a lower boost issue on the FRPP tune so it wouldnt be the grease causing the issue.. back to the drawing board.
Do a WOT 3rd gear pull datalog, and we'll see if something comes up.

Wait, what are you logging with?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #12

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,358 Posts
here ya go, just did 3 quick pulls with torque pro, it went limp and threw codes this time:

datazap.me | STdriver17 | Log 1595785778


View attachment 381294
Well you have some real codes going on.

First off you should pull the intake manifold and look at the fuel injector connections/wiring. Trace that section of harness until it disappears into the main. Check connections, look for damage, be very thorough.

@SSgtjrobertson do you have resistance readings and voltage readings for the fuel injector circuits/ injectors on a 2017 ST?


Ugh. I just want a clean 3rd gear WOT pull. from 2500 to 6800rpms. None of that was clean, or what im looking for. Standard data log procedure for the future please.

Torque pro doesnt log much either. It showed no igniton corrections, boost didnt register, WGDC wasnt right, all in all there isn't much useful info at all in that. It's just a bunch of nonsense. It's worse than SCT logs, and those are BS to read. Didnt look like you went WOT at all in that log, which tells me nothing.

Given the codes you popped though, you should not be going into WOT until something is sorted. You have issues on 2 cylinders injectors. Thats not good. Could be a lean and pop.
 

·
Moderator
2017 Kona Blue ST1
Joined
·
1,229 Posts
The Ohm reading should be in the neighborhood of 12 - 14 ohms iirc. What you're trying to avoid is a wide variation between all four.

381296
381297
381298


I'll be in and out today but I've sub'ed and will check back when I can.

J
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
@Duece McCracken every time i tried to go WOT at 2500 it started to sputter and hickup, i could feel it in the exhaust pipe like it wanted to go boom lol

Boost was reaching up 18.5 on all three runs before the engine light started blinking and it went limp. the light eventually shut off and i got my power back and putted home.

Are you looking at those logs right? you can go below the chart and scroll down the spreadsheet until you find the section of data you're looking for and see the progression and decline in numbers and you can also just higlight a section of the chart and it will stretch it then click what item you want represented (boost, AFR, Fuel Trim, etc.) so its not so cluttered, unfortunately it doesnt have ig cyl correction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
@SSgtjrobertson Thaks for posting that info, i was looking for the resistance on the injectors but couldnt find it online other than averages. Ill check those next but im wondering if it jumped time or the crank position sensor is malfunctioning, i noticed the wiring going into the plug looks like it might be starting to fray as if it got hit with debris.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,358 Posts
@Duece McCracken every time i tried to go WOT at 2500 it started to sputter and hickup, i could feel it in the exhaust pipe like it wanted to go boom lol

Boost was reaching up 18.5 on all three runs before the engine light started blinking and it went limp. the light eventually shut off and i got my power back and putted home.

Are you looking at those logs right? you can go below the chart and scroll down the spreadsheet until you find the section of data you're looking for and see the progression and decline in numbers and you can also just higlight a section of the chart and it will stretch it then click what item you want represented (boost, AFR, Fuel Trim, etc.) so its not so cluttered, unfortunately it doesnt have ig cyl correction.
The data provided is horrible by Torque pro, and the fact that it's several pulls with some driving inbetween makes it hard to read.

The sampling rate of the app makes it very hard to see anything thats going on.

5190 is your highest rpm. 18.7 lbs is your highest boost. Theres nothing linear about it. Like you start your pull but you dont actually have registered boost until like 4100 rpm, then it dips off to negs not far after. Yeah, Torque pro is not great for logs at all. It cant keep up or keep track of all the data being thrown at it. Which makes it completely useless for troubleshooting. None of the data is predictable, it's wild in when it records things and what it records.

Also, 18.7 psi, wtf? wheres the 5 psi you are missing? What elevation are you at?

Making one clean pull per log, makes the data much easier to comb through. This is terrible to read. Splitting it into 3 logs, is always preferred.

Screw these logs, we have OBD codes to work with thankfully.









.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,358 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #19

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,358 Posts
Yes, i see what you mean!!
Yeah, I use Datazap, SCT Livewire, Vdyno, and read AP3, SCT (poorly), and other various data logs. This isn't my first rodeo, but it may be my first Torque pro. Data is data, kinda, lol

I figured showing you would clear things up. TP samples once per second, which isnt ideal at all. In a 1/4 mile run at the drag, youd only have 13 or 14 piece of data, lol. Which makes it super tough to see whats going on, and thats without it messing up data, or not having the ability to read certain things from the ECU.

Now back to your issues.

Do you have a good DMM and are you familiar with electrical testing? J done hooked it up with the nitty gritty you need to check for. You have to be careful not to damage connectors, wires, or to short leads together or to ground.
 
1 - 20 of 167 Posts
Top