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I'm new to all this stuff, how much would a tear down and install for these cost?
Alot more than you are probably ready to spend if you are paying a shop to do all the work.

Several hours to pull the engine alone.
 
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Alot more than you are probably ready to spend if you are paying a shop to do all the work.

Several hours to pull the engine alone.
Not necessarily. The engine price I was quoted did not seem unreasonable at all.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I believe the factory rods are forged also.
Technically every factory rod is "forged". Its a broad term that's thrown around way to often without understanding what is really means. Typically factory rods start out as molten metal that is pourred into a mold to get its basic shape. They are then machined down to the correct tolerance and heat treated to add strength. Depending on the material used, heat treating process, and the order in which that is done can GREATLY affect the strength of the rod. The rods that came in the 03-04 cobra can handle 800WHP with a rod bolt upgrade where as most mustang GT rods fail in the 400WHP range. Carrillo rods are known to be nearly indestructible even though they are an h-beam design (which is technically not as strong under compressive loads as an I-beam) due to their forging process and materials used. Most rods are cut and then heat treated but Oliver rods heat treats a solid block of metal and then does the final machining of the entire rod. These are some of the strongest rods you can buy next to aluminum (which is an entirely different ball game).

Until more ecoboost motors start seeing rod failures we wont know the true average failing point. On the MZR people used to bend/break rods on clock to stock HP levels but there are also guys making upwards of 475WHP on stock block due to a great tune that delays TQ down low. So its not really about the fact that your motor has "forged" rods in it as much as it is how that process was done and how your TQ curve affects the rods S-N curve.

Alot more than you are probably ready to spend if you are paying a shop to do all the work.

Several hours to pull the engine alone.
We charge a flat rate of $1100 to un-install your old motor and re-install your new one with all the necessary consumables. We make sure there are no leaks and start to do the break-in miles for you until your ready to pick up your car. If you choose this option we also include a 1000 mile warranty to cover anything that happens during the break-in (assuming its done according to our directions). If you have some bolt on mods to install at the same time we dont charge for that as long as we dont need to do any custom fabrication. We are a very reasonable shop and are committed to making sure the customer is taken care of and leaves happy after every job we do.

Go out and buy a 175.00 engine hoist from harbor freight, use a friend with alot of tools and his help. It's so easy to pull and install a motor :)

Love that piston/rod options are rolling out. I always seem to destroy one cylinders sometime during ownership.
We also encourage you to do this as well! Pulling a motor isent that hard with a decent set of tools and some friends to help. You should make sure at least someone in the group has a good understanding of cars and is capable of more then just turning a wrench =D This will help you understand how all the bits and pieces go back together which can help you troubleshoot any issues you might have later down the line.
 

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What a great primer on rods. The best I've seen. It's terrific to have such great AM support. Thanks guys. JP
 

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What a great primer on rods. The best I've seen. It's terrific to have such great AM support. Thanks guys. JP
By leaps and bounds we have a much larger AM supper than the MS3 scene. Notice how a lot of our support caters to ms3, though
 

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Okay so I am still confused, even though someone already asked, What does going to 11:1 due for us? Do we have to run less boost so as to not damage the motor? What all makes it worth doing?
 

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Okay so I am still confused, even though someone already asked, What does going to 11:1 due for us? Do we have to run less boost so as to not damage the motor? What all makes it worth doing?
No you just need a way to control detonation. Meth, higher octane gasoline, or E85 blended gasoline. Higher compression gives us that low end response but at the cost of increased risk of a/f mixture detonation because of higher compression ratio.

I'm gonna search for builds running high compression like this and analyze their builds.
 

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We also encourage you to do this as well! Pulling a motor isent that hard with a decent set of tools and some friends to help. You should make sure at least someone in the group has a good understanding of cars and is capable of more then just turning a wrench =D This will help you understand how all the bits and pieces go back together which can help you troubleshoot any issues you might have later down the line.

Yes, have done this many times, on many different cars.

 

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We charge a flat rate of $1100 to un-install your old motor and re-install your new one with all the necessary consumables. We make sure there are no leaks and start to do the break-in miles for you until your ready to pick up your car. If you choose this option we also include a 1000 mile warranty to cover anything that happens during the break-in (assuming its done according to our directions). If you have some bolt on mods to install at the same time we dont charge for that as long as we dont need to do any custom fabrication. We are a very reasonable shop and are committed to making sure the customer is taken care of and leaves happy after every job we do.
And you guys are only in NJ, eh....? :D

Good to know for the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
No you just need a way to control detonation. Meth, higher octane gasoline, or E85 blended gasoline. Higher compression gives us that low end response but at the cost of increased risk of a/f mixture detonation because of higher compression ratio.

I'm gonna search for builds running high compression like this and analyze their builds.
about 50% of our MZR customers choose our stock 9.5:1 compression and the other half go with the higher 10.6:1. If you have access to E85 or meth its a no brainer to go with the larger compression.
 

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about 50% of our MZR customers choose our stock 9.5:1 compression and the other half go with the higher 10.6:1. If you have access to E85 or meth its a no brainer to go with the larger compression.
Exactly. I searched for high comp turbo builds and found a number of builds. All of these builds had superior detonation control.
 

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@speedperf6rmanc3 I see you sell a crankcase ventilator, I seem to have had my dipstick push out slightly which caused oil to spew out from the tube. What causes this? Is the ventilator a legit fix or is it a bandaid for a bigger problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
@speedperf6rmanc3 I see you sell a crankcase ventilator, I seem to have had my dipstick push out slightly which caused oil to spew out from the tube. What causes this? Is the ventilator a legit fix or is it a bandaid for a bigger problem?
This is caused by too much crankcase pressure. The valve cover breather is a great way to fix this but ultimately there is a reason your pressurizing the crankcase. I would start with an OCC that includes a good check valve and see if that helps your problem because the stock PCV valve is known to let in 5-10 psi of boost.
 

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subed i plan on doing a motor build but i am hesitant due to the headifold and lack of fueling options
 

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Any updates on porting the heads? Any numbers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
We got our head back from the machine shop but they werent able to flow test it because the owner is away on vacation in Australia. We are going to drop it off once he returns and get you guys some number ASAP. Ill see if i can get some picts to post up as well.
 
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