[porkcereal]

No one can tell you if you will like particular speakers. Everyone's ears are different and some like different sound signatures.
But focus on the front more than the rear. If done right, you won't hear the rears

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[WhiteZ71]

Speaker "Only" Replacement Testimonies.

Good info here

Just finished the install. It was two sets of those infinity component speakers. Install was pretty straight forward. Sound is ok. Anything is better than stock. But it really isn't anything to write home about.

Next is a small sub and amp.

 

[Seabass]

Hey guys, I plan on doing this over my weekend. I am a complete rookie and wanted clarification before i mess anything up. I have an ST1, and I am only upgrading the speakers to the same infinity Primus. I've watched the videos and read every single response to this thread. I think I understand most of it the only thing I am not quite sure of it the crossover. I am going to put it in the same location as OP. I have included some pictures to help me further understand. The 6.5 signal that is supposed to go into the crossover, is that the wiring that goes into the clip and original 6.5 woofer? (in pic) If that is the 6.5 signal, how can I tell which of the black wires goes into the "in" and which goes to the "out"? Lastly, If I have the tweeters coming off of the crossover, is the original tweeter wiring useless? Do I cap it off and call it a day? Any responses are greatly appreciated!

 

[WhiteZ71]

Speaker "Only" Replacement Testimonies.

Yes. The wire that went to the stock tweeter is irrelevant.

Don't cut your stock connector off. Get the plug/pig tail from crutchfield. They came with the speakers when I bought them.

+/- does matter

Here is the sheet of the plug/pig tail

 

[mkivbb]

Just picked up a 16' ST2 with the Sony system in it. It sounds pretty decent for stock, but I think it could sound noticeably better without much effort. I've had good luck with other cars where I didn't want to replace the factory stereo by just sticking some of these Rockford Fosgate 3 way 6.5's in them. They actually sound great for the money and are very efficient, therefore you don't need an amp to run them.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R165X3/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3.html

Just ordered 2 sets of them from Crutchfield (comes with the adapter rings and wire harness clips for free) for $80 shipped for the 2 pairs. Going to leave the factory tweeters hooked up and in place; just simply replacing the 6.5's in the lower part of the doors. I'll post back and let you know if its worth it or not, lol. (and yes, I am aware of what a good stereo sounds like. I've had a lot of high end stuff before in other cars. Just didn't want to get too far off in the weeds with the Focus).

 

[1LoudST]

I just dont understand why not just do the same series in component for the front. no one needs 100 tweeters in the front sound stage.


especially when its only a few bucks more
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-R165-S-6-5-Inch-Component-Speaker/dp/B008K2ENIA

The proper matched tweeter to the woofer would provide great quality of sound with out being overly bright or harsh.

 

[mkivbb]

I just dont understand why not just do the same series in component for the front. no one needs 100 tweeters in the front sound stage.


especially when its only a few bucks more
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-R165-S-6-5-Inch-Component-Speaker/dp/B008K2ENIA

The proper matched tweeter to the woofer would provide great quality of sound with out being overly bright or harsh.

I thought about doing that instead, but didn't really want to mess with mounting the crossover network somewhere in the door, and I didn't want to have to possibly fabricate a bracket for the tweeters. Plus, I've put components in other cars that I've owned that I didn't change the head unit out in, and for whatever reason it just never sounded right. I figured with the Focus, I'd just take a stab at a cheap and easy direct bolt in swap of better 6.5's that I have used before and know work well, and leave the factory tweeters alone. If it ends up being too bright, I can always turn the treble down a little. I'm mainly just going for simplicity here with this car's audio system.

 

[1LoudST]

But one big thing a lot of people don't understand is that with too many speakers you can get destructive combining of the sound waves.

since there are multiple locations of the tweeters in your front sound stage (4 not counting the center channel) you can have an issue where everything a rives at your ears at the wrong times, and thus you can have these multiple tweeters actually fighting against you by being out of phase and actually canceling each other out, when this happens, you can't turn up or down the treble to fix this (More treble just increases the amount of cancelation and turning down the treble will just decrease the amount of cancelation. Long story short, it just sounds empty and crappy.

Also as far as the components I sent you, they are identical to the coaxial you listed aside from the coaxial have one extra tweeter. So if the components sound bad so will the coaxials and vice verse.

Also those components being Rockford lowest series, there is no crossover, there is a small passive filter (aka capicator) hidden inside of the tweeter so you don't have to hide a brick anywhere you litterally just run the tweeter to the ford tweeter's wire and the woofer to the ford woofer's wire.

Also no need to make any bracket for the tweeter, just snap the old one out and the new o e should be damn close to just snapping back in, you may need to add a drop of CA glue to secure it and call it a day. Litterally maybe an extra 5 mins worth of extra work total.

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[mkivbb]

But one big thing a lot of people don't understand is that with too many speakers you can get destructive combining of the sound waves.

since there are multiple locations of the tweeters in your front sound stage (4 not counting the center channel) you can have an issue where everything a rives at your ears at the wrong times, and thus you can have these multiple tweeters actually fighting against you by being out of phase and actually canceling each other out, when this happens, you can't turn up or down the treble to fix this (More treble just increases the amount of cancelation and turning down the treble will just decrease the amount of cancelation. Long story short, it just sounds empty and crappy.

Also as far as the components I sent you, they are identical to the coaxial you listed aside from the coaxial have one extra tweeter. So if the components sound bad so will the coaxials and vice verse.

Also those components being Rockford lowest series, there is no crossover, there is a small passive filter (aka capicator) hidden inside of the tweeter so you don't have to hide a brick anywhere you litterally just run the tweeter to the ford tweeter's wire and the woofer to the ford woofer's wire.

Also no need to make any bracket for the tweeter, just snap the old one out and the new o e should be damn close to just snapping back in, you may need to add a drop of CA glue to secure it and call it a day. Litterally maybe an extra 5 mins worth of extra work total.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I didn't realize those components didn't have a crossover network to mount, or else I might have done that. Either way, I've had great luck with these speakers in other cars I've done, so I just wanted to keep it simple.

Anyways, I finally got around to installing them, and they actually sound pretty good. Definitely cripser mids and highs, but not overdone. Is it a huge difference, no, but for the price and ease of doing, I think its worth it. The real weak link is the lack of a proper equalizer in the stock head unit. I will admit I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the stock woofer that Ford puts in the doors. Nice rubber surround and a polypropylene woofer. Not a bunch of paper cone garbage.

Next up is the subwoofer. Gotta figure out something to improve it a little.

 

[Tursko]

I didn't realize those components didn't have a crossover network to mount, or else I might have done that. Either way, I've had great luck with these speakers in other cars I've done, so I just wanted to keep it simple.

Anyways, I finally got around to installing them, and they actually sound pretty good. Definitely cripser mids and highs, but not overdone. Is it a huge difference, no, but for the price and ease of doing, I think its worth it. The real weak link is the lack of a proper equalizer in the stock head unit. I will admit I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the stock woofer that Ford puts in the doors. Nice rubber surround and a polypropylene woofer. Not a bunch of paper cone garbage.

Next up is the subwoofer. Gotta figure out something to improve it a little.

I put those same speakers in an s2000 recently (but the component versions) and threw a small 2 channel 60watt rms per channel Infinity amp on them and wow they BUMP. Such a good speaker all around. I am looking at the bigger brother currently - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P165SI/Rockford-Fosgate-P165-SI.html but I'm debating on trying the Prime series since my current Rockford amp pushes 50w RMS at 4 ohms. https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r600x5/

 

[Joe007]

Just installed some Infinity Kappa 60.11cs speakers. Did the front passenger side first. Immediately there was a difference. Then I did the driver's side and damn it's like an upgrade. Did the rears and damn it's like a new system. My one complaint is the new speakers are louder but the stock sub is the same volume, with no way to adjust it.

|||
vvv for this guy, the Sony 10 speaker one.

If I go with with 60.11cs what should I use for the rears?

 

[zbillster]

Very helpful thread! I went to Crutchfield (I've forgotten how many cars and decades I've used them) for a non-Sony stock speaker upgrade. They have a button for "I want to upgrade" (based on previous customer's reviews and to work well with stock HU power). I of course, being me, picked the cheapest of the 3 options presented for front and back. 😁 I just want to get rid of the mud, not rattle the windows or annoy the neighbors:

 

[zbillster]

Very helpful thread! I went to Crutchfield (I've forgotten how many cars and decades I've used them) for a non-Sony stock speaker upgrade. They have a button for "I want to upgrade" (based on previous customer's reviews and to work well with stock HU power). I of course, being me, picked the cheapest of the 3 options presented for front and back. 😁 I just want to get rid of the mud, not rattle the windows or annoy the neighbors:

I just chatted with Crutchfield to change the order to 2 pairs of Kicker 46CSC674 speakers all around. Doing the "morning after" review check ... a lot of people say the Rockfords are actually 5" with a big surround with bass criticism.

Stage 3 Motorsports also offers the same deal ... these CS speakers in 6.5", wiring and mounting rings for $155 ... or a step up to the KS package for $200.

13-18 Focus ST Complete Kicker CS Series Speaker Upgrade Package
13-18 Focus ST Complete Kicker KS Series Speaker Upgrade Package

They also include an installation video on their site:

 

[zbillster]

I just chatted with Crutchfield to change the order to 2 pairs of Kicker 46CSC674 speakers all around. Doing the "morning after" review check ... a lot of people say the Rockfords are actually 5" with a big surround with bass criticism.

Stage 3 Motorsports also offers the same deal ... these CS speakers in 6.5", wiring and mounting rings for $155 ... or a step up to the KS package for $200.

13-18 Focus ST Complete Kicker CS Series Speaker Upgrade Package
13-18 Focus ST Complete Kicker KS Series Speaker Upgrade Package

They also include an installation video on their site:

Just spent my Saturday doing the four-speaker install of the Kickers, using the Stage 3 video as a guide (better than the Crutchfield instructions). I am pleased with the results ... doing A/B testing after putting one side in, you can definitely hear how MUDDY the stock speakers are.

Some install notes:
1. The Crutchfield adaptor rings have an inside set of mounting tabs, which for these 6.75" you snap off (easily and cleanly with pliers) and use the main solid ring for a flush fit.

2. Yes, cut out a notch for the wires to go through as in the video. I mounted them "upside-down" so the harness is on top.

3. I bought some double-sided tape to apply to the wiring harness plug to stick to the door so it won't rattle around ... more on that below.

4. The annoying bits, surprisingly, were getting the little cover under the door handles off (kinda tap around on it till it dislodges from its fit with nary a gap in the edges to pry loose) and wiggling the connectors plugs onto the speaker poles without breaking them (tight fit and sharp edges).

5. The rear doors were tricker than expected upon reassembly:

a. Making sure all the white plugs in the door card were in place (they can slide off easily) and lining up the little panel with the window control so it would snap in completely (keep your eyes on the bottom large "keel" tab to make sure it lines up with its slot so it can click all the way in).

b. I was able to disconnect the door release cable harness to take the door card completely off ... but be sure to test function plugging it back in ... the cable end twisted off its plastic rails so had to straighten that out.

c. When double-stick taping the wiring harness to the rear door, I originally did it to the rim of the speaker adapter (red NO circle in pic) but then the front of the door card wouldn't quite snap in ... there's a little plastic protrusion at 12 o'clock about the speaker grille that you have to clear (red circle in pic) ... so I reoriented the harness forward and flat for clearance (green circle in pic with check mark).

Now just needs a road trip for a good test!

 

[GoFast81]

I know I’m late to this party don’t flame me. Trying to upgrade my tweeters as well without splicing the harness or tapping the wires. Does anyone know or a female tweeter input option going out to speaker leads for the tweeters