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You can just not put tweeters in the back. They're actually next to useless, in my opinion...
Yeah I was thinking that. I may just out 2-way speakers in the back and components in the front.

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I am also hearing different advice...Can I run 2 ohm speakers or should I stick with 3 ohm or 4 ohm? What if the front's are 2 ohm and the rears and 3 ohm? Any issue there?

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It depends on the amp that you're using. I have a Rockford Fosgate R600X5 and I run the doors at 2ohm and sub at 4ohm
I will be running these off the stock deck. I may get a 4 channel later. I have the basic ST1 system.

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I am also hearing different advice...Can I run 2 ohm speakers or should I stick with 3 ohm or 4 ohm? What if the front's are 2 ohm and the rears and 3 ohm? Any issue there?

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Stick to 4 ohm. If you run a lower load you can cause things to overheat.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/
If you dont mind picking up some 3/4 in spacers, these 'budget' door speakers sound good off the stock radio and add a good amount of low end you wont get with budget car audio from the main brands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #309 · (Edited)
Stick to 4 ohm. If you run a lower load you can cause things to overheat.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/
If you dont mind picking up some 3/4 in spacers, these 'budget' door speakers sound good off the stock radio and add a good amount of low end you wont get with budget car audio from the main brands.
dude 3ohm speakers work great. no over heating. also the amp is more than likely 2 ohm stable anyways. it is guaranteed good at 3ohm. also no need what so ever to buy spacers. watch my videos. doing it any other way is just being a hack. unless you 3d print mounts. then you show the guy a website with a speaker as crappy as the stock one. WTH?
 

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Yes you can, and you obviously haven't heard a car with components in the rear if you think they are useless. come on man, get real.

Well you did put these all the way around without an amp correct? I will go that route.

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dude 3ohm speakers work great. no over heating. also the amp is more than likely 2 ohm stable anyways. it is guaranteed good at 3ohm. also no need what so ever to buy spacers. watch my videos. doing it any other way is just being a hack. unless you 3d print mounts. then you show the guy a website with a speaker as crappy as the stock one. WTH?
You have no clue what i linked or what's its capable of. You dont seem to be in touch with the car audio world nor seem to have knowledge of budget active or passive car audio outside of your golden infinity setup. You threw some cheap comps in your ride and think its the **** and what everyone else should do. Get over yourself.

Your videos are informative on some of the basics and you clearly state some of your OPINIONS, remember that, much of what you state are YOUR OPINIONS and may not be valid to everyone.

Ill take your word that the factory amp/ headunit is 3 ohm or maybe even 2 ohm stable. Most car audio are 4ohm or 8ohm speakers, with a few dual voice coil (yes they do make some 6.5s with dual voice coils), and subs being many combinations.+

Adding extra components and tweeters to the rear stage of your car is not a proper way to stage vocals and sounds in a true sound quality setup. Do some people like it, yes, do some people care about stageing, no. That's why most SQ or even SQL/SPL guys don't even run speakers in the rear doors or rear decks. And if they do, they are usually coaxials just for some rear fill or for passengers. Once again it is preference if and your OPINION that everyone should run infinity comps in the rear doors.

Once again ill continue to agree to disagree with you and its best if we stop interacting on this board and facebook groups that you spam your youtube vids on anytime i chime in helping people.
Please stop responding to my posts on this board as well as Facebook and i think we both will be better off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #315 ·
You have no clue what i linked or what's its capable of. You dont seem to be in touch with the car audio world nor seem to have knowledge of budget active or passive car audio outside of your golden infinity setup. You threw some cheap comps in your ride and think its the **** and what everyone else should do. Get over yourself.

Your videos are informative on some of the basics and you clearly state some of your OPINIONS, remember that, much of what you state are YOUR OPINIONS and may not be valid to everyone.

Ill take your word that the factory amp/ headunit is 3 ohm or maybe even 2 ohm stable. Most car audio are 4ohm or 8ohm speakers, with a few dual voice coil (yes they do make some 6.5s with dual voice coils), and subs being many combinations.+

Adding extra components and tweeters to the rear stage of your car is not a proper way to stage vocals and sounds in a true sound quality setup. Do some people like it, yes, do some people care about stageing, no. That's why most SQ or even SQL/SPL guys don't even run speakers in the rear doors or rear decks. And if they do, they are usually coaxials just for some rear fill or for passengers. Once again it is preference if and your OPINION that everyone should run infinity comps in the rear doors.

Once again ill continue to agree to disagree with you and its best if we stop interacting on this board and facebook groups that you spam your youtube vids on anytime i chime in helping people.
Please stop responding to my posts on this board as well as Facebook and i think we both will be better off.
I never said my components were the best. ACTUALLY on many occasions I said I bought them because they were so cheap and sounded much better than stock. If I was going to do it again I think I would have done an upper middle end set (priced somewhere at 250-300$)

Most car speakers are not 4 AND 8 ohm. base on websites and what they have for sale 90% are 4ohm 8% are 2ohm and 2% are 3ohm. 8ohm speakers are usually set in HOME audio speakers as well as computer speakers.

so staging vocals and sound is something you should do in a car? buy a 4 door car and screw who ever is in the back seat so they can't hear anything, while you jam out in the front seat? makes sense for a coupe with useless back seat or a roadster. we are talking about people who daily drive their cars and you are comparing it to people who do competitions. I do NOT think everyone should run anything. but if someone is doing a budget build I have not found anything better in the 75$ range.... have you? if so please give these people a link to them for comparison.

Spamming videos would require me to constantly post them over and over. I post them 1 time the day they come out. then I post them to answer someone's question if they have a question. apparently, helping people is wrong to you.
 

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Update - So I cut my teeth on cadio audio installation a couple weeks ago using Jason's and another guys youtube vid. Very simple replacement of the fronts with some CT Sounds Coaxials (complete with the factory speaker destruction to use the factory mounting).

Even this simple mod was a huge improvement and now I have the bug. Bought a modest 400W Kenwood amp (KAC-M1804) and plan to move the CT's to the back and install some proper Comps up front. Oh yeah, I got a PFOCUS12 Head Unit on the way too.

Question: when wiring up the speakers to the amp, is it possible to use the existing factory Molex connections or do I need to cut those out and run directly to the speaker terminals?
 

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Update - So I cut my teeth on cadio audio installation a couple weeks ago using Jason's and another guys youtube vid. Very simple replacement of the fronts with some CT Sounds Coaxials (complete with the factory speaker destruction to use the factory mounting).

Even this simple mod was a huge improvement and now I have the bug. Bought a modest 400W Kenwood amp (KAC-M1804) and plan to move the CT's to the back and install some proper Comps up front. Oh yeah, I got a PFOCUS12 Head Unit on the way too.

Question: when wiring up the speakers to the amp, is it possible to use the existing factory Molex connections or do I need to cut those out and run directly to the speaker terminals?
You can use the wires at the radio/ amp up to 150 watts a speaker and it should be fine. Or you can run all new wires to the doors, it's a ***** but can be done.
 

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Update - So I cut my teeth on cadio audio installation a couple weeks ago using Jason's and another guys youtube vid. Very simple replacement of the fronts with some CT Sounds Coaxials (complete with the factory speaker destruction to use the factory mounting).

Even this simple mod was a huge improvement and now I have the bug. Bought a modest 400W Kenwood amp (KAC-M1804) and plan to move the CT's to the back and install some proper Comps up front. Oh yeah, I got a PFOCUS12 Head Unit on the way too.

Question: when wiring up the speakers to the amp, is it possible to use the existing factory Molex connections or do I need to cut those out and run directly to the speaker terminals?
good luck with the pyle radio... best thing you can do is send that POS back and lay your ipod in the hole.. at least that would be reliable. Pyle makes garbage.
 

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good luck with the pyle radio... best thing you can do is send that POS back and lay your ipod in the hole.. at least that would be reliable. Pyle makes garbage.
Yeah, Pyle's reputation isn't the best and I've read a lot of opinions to steer clear. I've also had the joy of dealing with their tech support yesterday and today - which is a joke.

Decided to take a chance mainly due to this unit being on Amazon and mostly plug and play... making a return quick and painless if it is hot garbage once I get it up and running.
 
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