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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I have let this sit for quite a while now, but last year when ford replaced my fuel injectors they must have wrenched on my spark plugs pretty good because when I went to put my 1 step colder plugs back in (I went in for warranty work and wanted everything to look normal so I put the stock plugs back in) I could not get them to budge. I gave it some pretty good force, but they would not break loose and I didn't want to snap a plug.

Is there anything I can do to loosen these up or should I just have a shop swap the plugs for me?
 

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Just to clarify the plug is steel and the head aluminum. The heat will expand the aluminum more than the steel so the will be easier to get out.
Some penetrating oil goes a long way too, just don't let it get to the point where it gets a bunch down into the chamber when you get it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Last time I tried to pull them out I had just driven the car 30 minutes and no budge. I can try again I guess. I REALLY don't want to break them.
 

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Last time I tried to pull them out I had just driven the car 30 minutes and no budge. I can try again I guess. I REALLY don't want to break them.
If you are 100% spooked and don't want to break them then seriously take your new plugs and go to a shop and have them remove them for ya. I don't blame you in this case, if you snap one you're boned for a while.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you are 100% spooked and don't want to break them then seriously take your new plugs and go to a shop and have them remove them for ya. I don't blame you in this case, if you snap one you're boned for a while.
I will probably go to a shop. It can't cost that much for the install right? Does anyone know what the gap should be off hand btw? Denso plugs.
 

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I will probably go to a shop. It can't cost that much for the install right? Does anyone know what the gap should be off hand btw? Denso plugs.
Stratified wants .025-.026 I believe. And no, should be cheap af unless they're an a$$hole.

Confirmed, .025-.026
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Stratified wants .025-.026 I believe. And no, should be cheap af unless they're an a$$hole.

Confirmed, .025-.026
Thank you very much!
 
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Thank you very much!
Sure thing man! That MBRP CBE I see in your sig, how long have you had it? That wasn't by chance the outcome of the PMs I sent you a few months back was it? :cool:
 
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First, I'd spray just a little penetrating oil and wait overnight.

Second, my experience has been that too many socket ends rest on the head itself, so once you bottom the socket down there, pull it up 1/4" or so before you start wrenching.

Third, there is nothing wrong with using a 3/8" drive breaker bar about 18" long or so IMHO. In fact, doing so enables you to put one hand on the socket extension shaft to make sure it is truly vertical, and the socket is not contacting the walls at all. You can then use the other hand to apply graduated torque. Do not use a flex joint; just make sure the extension length is not so long that you are contacting the windshield base shroud.

Basically, if the socket+extension shaft is perfectly in line with the spark plug bore and is not contacting the cylinder head in any way, you can apply a fair amount of torque and not damage the plug. When I see a plug with the ceramic cracked/broken on top, then I know the socket+extension shaft was not lined up correctly.

Hope that helps,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sure thing man! That MBRP CBE I see in your sig, how long have you had it? That wasn't by chance the outcome of the PMs I sent you a few months back was it? :cool:
I have had then since I hit 1K on the ST haha, so over a year.
 
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I have had then since I hit 1K on the ST haha, so over a year.
Ah, my B. I wasn't sure if I remembered seeing it in your sig or not in the past. Good choices were made a year ago! Best sounding exhaust on a 4 banger I've ever heard with my catless pipe.

Start it up, jet engine whistle until warm, then let her rip on the highway and she roars.
 
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First, I'd spray just a little penetrating oil and wait overnight.

Second, my experience has been that too many socket ends rest on the head itself, so once you bottom the socket down there, pull it up 1/4" or so before you start wrenching.

Third, there is nothing wrong with using a 3/8" drive breaker bar about 18" long or so IMHO. In fact, doing so enables you to put one hand on the socket extension shaft to make sure it is truly vertical, and the socket is not contacting the walls at all. You can then use the other hand to apply graduated torque. Do not use a flex joint; just make sure the extension length is not so long that you are contacting the windshield base shroud.

Basically, if the socket+extension shaft is perfectly in line with the spark plug bore and is not contacting the cylinder head in any way, you can apply a fair amount of torque and not damage the plug. When I see a plug with the ceramic cracked/broken on top, then I know the socket+extension shaft was not lined up correctly.

Hope that helps,
Mark
With the penetrating oil soak overnight and a heat cycle with proper socket then I totally agree with using the breaker bar to make sure you're making even straight up and down force on it. I think the first guy was implying just throwing it under a breaker bar and busting the sucker out with force, which is a huge nope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ah, my B. I wasn't sure if I remembered seeing it in your sig or not in the past. Good choices were made a year ago! Best sounding exhaust on a 4 banger I've ever heard with my catless pipe.

Start it up, jet engine whistle until warm, then let her rip on the highway and she roars.
I am actually considering getting a DP again. Long story short I had the random misfire CEL so I took the DP off before I took it into the dealer. I was too afraid of the issue coming back and paying to have the DP taken on and off again so I just sold the DP.

Now I really want it back.
 

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I am actually considering getting a DP again. Long story short I had the random misfire CEL so I took the DP off before I took it into the dealer. I was too afraid of the issue coming back and paying to have the DP taken on and off again so I just sold the DP.

Now I really want it back.
Was the misfire related to the DP? I know people have the CEL for o2 sensor and stuff which Stratified removes for us anyway, but I haven't heard of the misfire
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Was the misfire related to the DP? I know people have the CEL for o2 sensor and stuff which Stratified removes for us anyway, but I haven't heard of the misfire
No I took it off so Ford didn't try
To deny warranty work. Didn't want to worry about paying to keep swapping back and forth from stock to catless.

Sent from Hoth Rebel Base
 
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Do this if you want to snap them ^ :doh:
Uhm, nope. Because unless the threads are ****ed up (eg. ran it waaaaay too lean and deformed the threads), there is no reason a breaker bar should damage anything. Frankly I use a breaker bar all the time instead of wasting time and energy using a 6" 3/8 ratchet. Spark plugs are always in tight. Same concept like the oil filter. They get tighter after they are heated and cooled.

I hope you are talking out of real world experience and not internet knowledge.
 
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