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Discussion Starter #181
If you're using those words in a positive manner, then yes.
I drive a Peterbilt with an Eaton 10 speed for a living. I ruined the M5OD in my 94 F150, AND in my 04 Ranger. This ST shifter feels like it's gonna break soon, and if it hits 3rd while aiming for 5th or 2nd while aiming for 4th one more time, im gonna lose my $#@%.

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Well, if you are miss shifting in the OEM configuration, short shifters are probably going to make it worse, which you are aware of.

The ST shifter doesnt break, miss shifting the trans will break things. People have broken cables(very rare) and I know people who can **** up a steel ball, so that point is moot.

The ST shifter has some slop, you could tighten it up in hopes of getting a more positive gear indication.

This would be replacing the shifter cable ends, the shift cable bracket bushings on the trans, and the shift lever base bushings under the shifter. It wouldnt shorten the throw, but it would tighten things up and give you better feedback when you shift. Then if you find shifter travel too long, you could replace the shift arm, or lever.
 

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If you're using those words in a positive manner, then yes.
I drive a Peterbilt with an Eaton 10 speed for a living. I ruined the M5OD in my 94 F150, AND in my 04 Ranger. This ST shifter feels like it's gonna break soon, and if it hits 3rd while aiming for 5th or 2nd while aiming for 4th one more time, im gonna lose my $#@%.

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Ruining two m50d transmission is rather impressive. Deuce is right, I’d look at adjusting the shift linkage and adding shifter bushings. Theres a white plastic piece that pops up and you can adjust the linkage in or out but beware you can go to far and it won’t go into gear so test before driving. Bushings definitely give a better, more positive feel of engagement when shifting. Worth the money.


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If you're using those words in a positive manner, then yes.
I drive a Peterbilt with an Eaton 10 speed for a living. I ruined the M5OD in my 94 F150, AND in my 04 Ranger. This ST shifter feels like it's gonna break soon, and if it hits 3rd while aiming for 5th or 2nd while aiming for 4th one more time, im gonna lose my $#@%.

Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk
Ruining two m50d transmission is rather impressive. Deuce is right, I’d look at adjusting the shift linkage and adding shifter bushings. Theres a white plastic piece that pops up and you can adjust the linkage in or out but beware you can go to far and it won’t go into gear so test before driving. Bushings definitely give a better, more positive feel of engagement when shifting. Worth the money.


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It only adjust the side to side not throw forward and backward. So you put it in neutral pop the clip on the linkage under the hood. Put it in fourth to lock it in the center position then snap the clip back on. On my 2017 the clip is sideways not up and down.
 

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Very useful thread; I'm trying to plan out a shifter setup that'll provide the value for money spent. Looks like the $95 JBR weighted shift arm @ 40% is the most elegant option in the arm/bolt on bracket category. Along with that, I plan to install the $26 JBR trans bracket bushings. These are a little cheaper if you combo buy with the shift arm, and it looks like they're 2 piece aluminum now. Finally, the $48 JBR weighted cable end bushings to get rid of the play in the cable end. These are my go to option because of the option of adding a small counterweight, which other bushings don't let you do. Not sure how useful that will be, but the price is consistent with other cable end bushing options, and the functionality should be the same. From their pictures it looks like the bushings replace both of the clip on cable ends, not just the lower one. Has anyone here installed this piece before?

Overall it's around 170 bucks for the overhaul. Perhaps I will add a short throw lever and shifter bushings to go along with it in the future, and get a heavy knob to top it all off. These seem less important compared to the other mods. What do you guys think of the planned JBR setup?
 

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I'm running Boosted Designs shifter base and transmission bracket bushings (bought for $52 on a sale), OKP cable end bushings (bought for $16) and a Torque Solutions short shift arm (bought for $60 when Horsepower Direct marked it down substantially to get it out of their warehouse, otherwise I was looking at the Breedt arm at ~$90). Total spent so far is right around $128, but I don't have any options for weighting on either the shift arm or the bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Very useful thread; I'm trying to plan out a shifter setup that'll provide the value for money spent. Looks like the $95 JBR weighted shift arm @ 40% is the most elegant option in the arm/bolt on bracket category. Along with that, I plan to install the $26 JBR trans bracket bushings. These are a little cheaper if you combo buy with the shift arm, and it looks like they're 2 piece aluminum now. Finally, the $48 JBR weighted cable end bushings to get rid of the play in the cable end. These are my go to option because of the option of adding a small counterweight, which other bushings don't let you do. Not sure how useful that will be, but the price is consistent with other cable end bushing options, and the functionality should be the same. From their pictures it looks like the bushings replace both of the clip on cable ends, not just the lower one. Has anyone here installed this piece before?

Overall it's around 170 bucks for the overhaul. Perhaps I will add a short throw lever and shifter bushings to go along with it in the future, and get a heavy knob to top it all off. These seem less important compared to the other mods. What do you guys think of the planned JBR setup?
Sounds pretty good. I have a lot of experience with the shift arm, but not their cable ends. They were not available when I got mine, in fact mine were the only two piece cable ends for quite some time. I feel old now. lol
 

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I'm running Boosted Designs shifter base and transmission bracket bushings (bought for $52 on a sale), OKP cable end bushings (bought for $16) and a Torque Solutions short shift arm (bought for $60 when Horsepower Direct marked it down substantially to get it out of their warehouse, otherwise I was looking at the Breedt arm at ~$90). Total spent so far is right around $128, but I don't have any options for weighting on either the shift arm or the bushings.
I actually never saw the OKP cable ends before. What's interesting is that the Ronin cable end bushings on Amazon are 54 bucks instead of 16, and the pieces look identical, down to the installation diagrams. Thanks for the heads up, I think I'll get those now.
 

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Shifter is my next project. The RMM made mine much better but I'm looking to shorten the throw slightly and am looking for that snick-snick feel if you know what I mean.
 

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I actually never saw the OKP cable ends before. What's interesting is that the Ronin cable end bushings on Amazon are 54 bucks instead of 16, and the pieces look identical, down to the installation diagrams. Thanks for the heads up, I think I'll get those now.
Mine shipped fast and I just followed the instructions from Cobb since none were included with the OKP bushings (they all install pretty much the same way). One thing that sped up getting the green cup out of the bushing was using a hacksaw (similar to how a Dremel was used in this post).
 

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Mine shipped fast and I just followed the instructions from Cobb since none were included with the OKP bushings (they all install pretty much the same way). One thing that sped up getting the green cup out of the bushing was using a hacksaw (similar to how a Dremel was used in this post).
I used a hacksaw to get the green plastic sockets out of my factory bushings as well! After some prying I managed to get the OKP cable end bushings installed. Used a bit of grease inside the socket so the linkage would glide a bit better. I also got the transmission bracket bushings in; during my first attempt the glue I used was too weak to hold the bushings in place, and I dropped one onto the splash guard...had to jack the car up and unscrew the side of the tray to fish it back out. Eventually I got them installed with some superglue to hold em in place.

I then attempted to get the factory shift arm off and struggled to hammer out the push pin with a bolt and rubber mallet for a while. After ragequitting, the next day I bought a 4lb sledgehammer along with pin punches from Harbor Freight. With some WD-40 I eventually hammered the taco pin out of the shift arm and got the JBR arm secured. Shifting felt great with all the counterweights on the arm. Overall this setup feels great with new transmission fluid; there is no more guessing if I'm in gear or not. The effort to go into gear is a bit higher, but once the lever starts moving, it secures itself with a nice click as the car goes into gear.
 

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I believe that I have everything in order to make my car shift better, or the best that it can. I have a new Focus RS shifter assembly, Anarchy Motive shift knob, JBR short shift plate, shifter base bushings, shifter cable bracket bushings, and cable end bushings. If I have any vagueness in my shifting after all that, then I don't know what I'll do.
 

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I believe that I have everything in order to make my car shift better, or the best that it can. I have a new Focus RS shifter assembly, Anarchy Motive shift knob, JBR short shift plate, shifter base bushings, shifter cable bracket bushings, and cable end bushings. If I have any vagueness in my shifting after all that, then I don't know what I'll do.

Why use a shift plate instead of a shift arm. you probably also end up wanting and weighted shift knob as it'll take more effort with a shorter throw to get it into gear
 

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I believe that I have everything in order to make my car shift better, or the best that it can. I have a new Focus RS shifter assembly, Anarchy Motive shift knob, JBR short shift plate, shifter base bushings, shifter cable bracket bushings, and cable end bushings. If I have any vagueness in my shifting after all that, then I don't know what I'll do.
Does JBR even sell a bolt on plate? I thought they just had the arm.
 

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Why use a shift plate instead of a shift arm. you probably also end up wanting and weighted shift knob as it'll take more effort with a shorter throw to get it into gear
The shift knob I have is 588 grams, so it has some heft to it.

Does JBR even sell a bolt on plate? I thought they just had the arm.
I misspoke, it is the entire shift arm, not just a plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #195
I believe that I have everything in order to make my car shift better, or the best that it can. I have a new Focus RS shifter assembly, Anarchy Motive shift knob, JBR short shift plate, shifter base bushings, shifter cable bracket bushings, and cable end bushings. If I have any vagueness in my shifting after all that, then I don't know what I'll do.
Youd pull the shifter cable bracket off the trans and weld a reinforcement piece to it to stiffen it up. Thats pretty much all thats left, lol.
 

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I tried just the JBR shift plate at 20% reduction and I'm happy with the reduction in throw, not so happy with how it feels to shift. It is more difficult to get it smoothly into gear. At this point I've not installed any of the solid metal bushings so I'm reserving judgement. As of right now I'd return it to stock rather than stick with where it is at but I'll try the bushings next.
 

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I tried just the JBR shift plate at 20% reduction and I'm happy with the reduction in throw, not so happy with how it feels to shift. It is more difficult to get it smoothly into gear. At this point I've not installed any of the solid metal bushings so I'm reserving judgement. As of right now I'd return it to stock rather than stick with where it is at but I'll try the bushings next.

With a shorter throw you'll want a heavier shift knob.
 
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