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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just recently had a WMI kit installed just finished it yesterday actually tidy upping wiring yada yada yada I still have to up the switch vacuum psi kick in but anyways....yesterday took an hour trip to fayetville NC for my monthly flex fill up get there fine yeah she was bogging a little bit because I think the wmi must be preset at like 1pci or something cause it bogs at a 2k rev but that's not the issue. So I fill up bought a charger plugged it in to my back 12v location (cigarette lighter) and I'm pretty sure that was the first time I actually used one of them. I think it was in the first mile bam ABS light cuts on no power steering assist, no hill assist, no speedometer, no traction control.... Just got done checking all the wiring fuses everything electrical I tested and ran. I have no clue what the hell is going on. Please someone enlighten me. Calling you out GT lol 馃槀 cause I know you'll be the first
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WMI DETECTION LIGHTS
 

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2017 Kona Blue ST1
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You checked all the fuses?
Where/How did you tie the WMI power into?

Some of these symptoms can be caused by a wheel speed sensor fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You checked all the fuses?
Where/How did you tie the WMI power into?

Some of these symptoms can be caused by a wheel speed sensor fault.
Yes I checked all three ABS fuses even replaced the small 5amp. Than I went ahead and checked every single one under the hood and passenger side did not check hatch because I don't see the relevance. I tied in all remote switch wires to my amp remote switch wire. Pump grounded to frame in hatch both lights grounded to frame seperate from each other will include picture in next post
 

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And the midi fuses in the HVJB (high voltage junction box)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nothing absolutely nothing I reset BSM and everything checked everything I have no idea what it is ... I might have to take this one to a dealer as much as I hate to do so if I can't figure it out by tomorrow that's what I'll have to do. What gets me is that it worked fine all the way to fayetville and than as soon as I plugged the charger in to the rear 12v location not the usb the actual 12v port c lighter it messes up and the wiring to the 12v port and the wiring for the Traction control run threw the same harness atleast that's what it looks like to me unless that wire goes straight to the hatch threw the center of the car which I highly doubt
 

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By what means did you use to test the midi fuses? You MUST use a voltmeter. Idk about rhe rear port issue, that may have been coincidental.

Also, im really not a fan of that positive battery terminal.
 

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Remove the fuse and check them with a multi meter on the ohm setting (or continuity if you have a fancy meter). If it reads very high or reads "OL" then the fuse is bad. If the reading is very low (similar to touching the two probes to each other) then it is fine.
 

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I would suspect that something is wrong with the wiring of the meth system. No offense but there are a lot of connections in your pictures that seemed kinda sketchy. Try to avoid using wire nuts in automotive applications.

Go back through and double check all of your wiring, replace any wire nuts with proper crimp connections or even solder and shrink tube.
 

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That wiring all needs to be redone anyway. I鈥檇 pull it all. Go back to stock, get a battery terminal that isn鈥檛 sold at a dollar store and then require with a plan and quality parts. And use some sort of covering on the wires like convoluted tubing or something to keep it tidy.
 

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You didn't nick another wire on your install did you? Could have shifted around on your drive then when you actually put load on the 12v plug caused a short of some sort? But yeah clean wiring goes a long way especially for troubleshooting.
 
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