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The intake doesn't help until after 350 whp.

Where are you shifting? How much timing are you getting? Are you or your father heavy; IE over 200 lbs? Are you going to the track with full tank?

The more you delay WOT the slower the car will go. With a tune only (E30), on slicks, launch at 4,000-4,300 my car ran all around 99 mph until I short shifted 3-4 at 5,700-5,800 (shift light comes on at 5,900) and it ran 100.44 mph (13.42) with no other changes: 5 gallons or less fuel, no spare/jack/tool (50 + lbs out), full interior, heavy stock wheels on the back.

Intake makes no difference at all. I then tighten the pre-load on the stock wastegate and I went 101.96 with a terrible 1.96 60'. Then I added a down pipe, at this point I know the stock intercooler is holding me back, it ran 102.67 and 102.49 mph (13.14).

One intake that does make a difference is the ram air scoop available from a few places now.

If you have no leaks, then you and your father weigh more than I do (190 lbs). Plus you must be showing up with a half tank or more.

You believe you are Stage 3, so what are you were expecting out of Stage 3 on 93 octane? 106-107 mph? Won't happen. More like 102-105 mph.

Your boost is down a bit, I spike 22, 21-20 around 5,000 rpm because of the pre-load adjustment. Might I suggest getting a Turbo Smart IWG and either get a E30 tune or water injection ; you will need water injection pre-turbo to hold 20-21 psi to redline. You can not inject enough ethanol to get the maxmium benefit of E85's cooling properties.

It could be your car is just down 10-15 hp compared to others. You could complain to Ford about this and see what happens. I believe I also suggested trying another tuner such as JST or Freektune.
 

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I don't think either of you are really listening to what I am saying and then you want to spend EVEN more money on power mods without solving the core issue?


Slicks @10-12 psi cold
Launch RPM 4000-4300 rpm

Best 60' time = 1.76

Average 60' = 1.79

Best trap is 102.67 mph

All passes on slicks, only one without and that was [email protected] or something I had all my gear in the car (slicks, jack, can of VP fuel) as they made me take a qualifying run while in the lane to get tech'ed.

I've made a few passes on WMI as well, best was [email protected]

The entire time I have run with all the seats in, only the spare/jack/tool removed. I've run recently without the backseats and foam surround removed but it was low 90's all day, still on the stock inter-cooler and my WMI has stopped working (wiring, pump or controller, don't know yet) = 13.5(34), 13.5(85) and 13.5(31) in the last qualifying session before eliminations all back to back to back runs 15 or so mins apart.

Once I get my water-methanol system back up and running we'll see if I can get a 12 second ET out it, but I really didn't buy it for that.

  • SCT X4 Used $200 (Found on Craigslist)
  • M&H Slicks $230 Each Summit Racing (2)
  • Konig Wheels $125 Each America's Tire Store (2)
  • Unleashed Tune (E30, E40 and several adjustments since) $150 not including tips
  • Cobb DP $599 (Sold $300 b/c of Poor Fitment)
  • Mountune Intake $349 (doesn't help not will later)
  • Thermal R&D DP + Cat-Back $0
  • AEM Water Injection $386 Amazon

If you have seen some of the post I have made I have dropped hints and even said exactly what I was going to do next.

Phase Two has begun...
 
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Hey, not to change the subject or anything, but how is the turbo smart WGA compared to fully tightening the preload on the stock piece? Right now I have my stock WG fully loaded and deff well worth it.
Glad you asked -

  • Turbo Smart IWG is adjusable not just pre-load but also springs.
  • You can hold 20 psi to redline/fuel cut. However this creates more heat.
  • JST made 309hp FBO/Stage 3 but had to reduce boost

Since JST had to reduce boost a bit to keep their timing overall, I highly recommend in additional to your upgraded intercooler that you add water-methanol injection. This will reduce the charge cooler temps even further and allow for max timing and boost to me run = More Power

Both Stratified and JST found a better intercooler and 30% ethanol where not enough to beat back the heat created by running more boost later in the power band.

Naturally the next step is to run pre-turbo water injection, which will also move the turbo map to the right and make more power later in the power band.

WIN-WIN when done right...
 
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Fixed boost leak, ran 13.722 @ 101.81 mph tonight with a 2.16 60' - launched at 3500, minimal wheelspin though, I must have broke an exhaust hanger or something making a weird rattling noise in the midsection, too dark to look at it now. Never thought a boost leak would cause it to run that crappy but I guess when you max boost at 18 and it falls off quick it messes up a lot. It was consistently hitting 22-23 psi, we found it to be the symposer delete was leaking.
When you said your boost was low it must have been a leak somewhere. Glad you found it was one of the mods you did, that was the logical thing to do, trace your steps back and make sure everything is right.

I had massive boost leaks in my SRT-4, car wouldn't run faster than mid to low 14's, even on drag radials. Fixed the leaks with T bolt clamps and a new vacuum line harness, no other changes = [email protected] I had switched to slicks but the trap speed went up 3-4 mph.

Glad you found the problem.
 

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Guess I don't feel too bad now. With my speed3 and 1000 in mods I ran a 14.2 @102.7 (with a sh1tty azz driver...me).

Welcome to the slows boys.

They just broke into the 10's on speeds after how many years? Patience it'll happen here...maybe.
A couple of ST's have run 10's apparently but I have yet to see a time slip or video. NaSTy is one of them having run [email protected] mph. That does jive with his 563 hp dyno pull considering he ran that time full weight on drag radials with an impressive 1.61 60' time.
 
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