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I was swapping my DP out yesterday and I sheared off the v-band bolt when I was removing it. I’m not sure why they use custom bolts for this application, but I didn’t feel like ordering a new $80 OEM v-band just for the bolt, so I ordered a Vibrant vband off of Amazon with next day shipping. I thought it would be a simple fix, but when it came in the aftermarket vbands internal flange wasn’t wide enough to handle the turbo flange and DP flange. Hmmm....
After some searching in my hardware drawer I came up with an idea. All I needed was a 4” stainless steel carriage bolt and a die grinder. This was the result...

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You sure that's stainless? Looks like galvanized to me
You are correct. I only took pictures of my proof of concept which was galvanized. I went to the hardware store and bought new a new stainless steel bolt washer and nut once I was sure it would work. I just didn’t get pictures of the final because it was late and I just wanted everything back together.
 

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You are correct. I only took pictures of my proof of concept which was galvanized. I went to the hardware store and bought new a new stainless steel bolt washer and nut once I was sure it would work. I just didn’t get pictures of the final because it was late and I just wanted everything back together.
yeah the proof of concept was probably enouhg to get you back on the road (nice job btw!) but SS is def needed living in Ohio :)
 

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A little ingenuity goes a long way. I didn't realize that vband was that expensive. Thanks for sharing.
 

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You are correct. I only took pictures of my proof of concept which was galvanized. I went to the hardware store and bought new a new stainless steel bolt washer and nut once I was sure it would work. I just didn’t get pictures of the final because it was late and I just wanted everything back together.
Whats your mechanical locking means on the fastener assembly?

I'm assuming your new bolt is SAE not metric, making the OEM nut useless like the bolt, lol.

OEM has an all metal locking nut. A ny-lock would melt, locking washers (split,star, etc) are a pain imho to get up on there from underneath.

Also, antiseize the shiz outta stainless, especially when it heat cycles. So this is a bad application for locktite.

I wonder if grainger or McMaster Carr has an appropriate locking nut. Would be the llama's pajamas to get these modified carraige bolts, washers and proper nut floating around the community.
 

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Whats your mechanical locking means on the fastener assembly?

I'm assuming your new bolt is SAE not metric, making the OEM nut useless like the bolt, lol.

OEM has an all metal locking nut. A ny-lock would melt, locking washers (split,star, etc) are a pain imho to get up on there from underneath.

Also, antiseize the shiz outta stainless, especially when it heat cycles. So this is a bad application for locktite.

I wonder if grainger or McMaster Carr has an appropriate locking nut. Would be the llama's pajamas to get these modified carraige bolts, washers and proper nut floating around the community.

 

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I hear yah, but most carraige bolts sold locally are standard threads, probably 1/4-20. Just wanted to see what the OP did. See how easy it is to pull this setup together.
 

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I hear yah, but most carraige bolts sold locally are standard threads, probably 1/4-20. Just wanted to see what the OP did. See how easy it is to pull this setup together.

Yeah all I can come up with an SAE sizes are stainless steel crimp nuts. Which may also work. I've used them before but not on anything this going through heat cycles like the v-band clamp.

 

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Yeah all I can come up with an SAE sizes are stainless steel crimp nuts. Which may also work. I've used them before but not on anything this going through heat cycles like the v-band clamp.

Are those just Jam nuts? Lol, these people with their descriptions. Which would work, but not as easy as the locking tab style.
 

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I ordered a new stud hardware set for my turbo manifold (efr uses a manifold to turbo elbow.) When talking to Full-Race, they said they upgraded to spiralock brand. Supposed to be antivibration/backing off design and they hadnt heard of anyone having issues since. I had an issue where my bolts started to loosen, no issues since swapping

If they can take the heat right at the manifold, they should be able to take the heat from the v-band no problem. I dug up my invoice, listed as this hardware kit: 8mm Full-Race T25 Turbo M8 Stud Kit • Full Race
Designed specifically for high performance turbocharged applications, the nut is silver plated A4-70 grade, allowing it to be used without anti-seize (keeps long-term service removal possible!)
Might be something to look into for those wanting a high quality nut
 

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I ordered a new stud hardware set for my turbo manifold (efr uses a manifold to turbo elbow.) When talking to Full-Race, they said they used spiralock brand. Supposed to be antivibration/backing off design. If they can take the heat right at the manifold, they should be able to take the heat from the v-band no problem. I dug up my invoice, listed as this hardware kit: 8mm Full-Race T25 Turbo M8 Stud Kit • Full Race


Might be something to look into for those wanting a high quality nut
Everbody enjoys a high quality nut. ;)
 
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