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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a breedt short shifter off of a member on here and I have yet to install it. I am wondering just how difficult this install is. I have done intakes, exhaust, sound symposer, and other simple things, but I wanted to make sure this was something I could do.

The pin the forum member sent me looks a bit mushroomed on each side so I don;t know if that will cause an issue when trying to knock the factory pin out. Any tips?
 

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Assuming you're talking about a breedt short shift arm. ..

When you knock the factory pin out, hit it with some penetrating oil or wd40 first and let it sit for five minutes or so. I used a 3 lb hammer and with a few quick taps it was out. Might be easier to have the gearbox in sixth gear, but you can manipulate the shift arm as needed to get clearance for your hammer.

If both ends of your knockout pin are mushroomed but will still pass through the hole in the stock shift arm and pin, you're probably okay. You could also use a bolt that is the right size, or something similar. I've heard of a member using a c clamp to push the pin out.

Also, when you knock out the pin be sure to hold onto it or get it started and tape it to something so it doesn't fall into the depths of the engine bay.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 

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I purchased a breedt short shifter off of a member on here and I have yet to install it. I am wondering just how difficult this install is. I have done intakes, exhaust, sound symposer, and other simple things, but I wanted to make sure this was something I could do.

The pin the forum member sent me looks a bit mushroomed on each side so I don;t know if that will cause an issue when trying to knock the factory pin out. Any tips?
Spray the oem pin down with some PB Blaster, or liquid Wrench. Let that soak in

You can use a 8mm head bolt if you have a spare kicking around from a different part install.

Tape the pin to a pair of pliers, so it doesn't fall and get lost forever, electrical tape works great for this, depending on temperature of course.

A mini sledge, like 3 lbs, is a perfect tool to drive out the old pin.

Be in control of your swings, there is a trans sensor and the rad fan in the area you will be swinging. Don't go crazy and break ****.

Don't break your cable end either, lol.
 

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Mine was super simple, granted I was doing it to a new car that had never seen a single winter. I hit the pin a couple times with a normal-ish sized hammer and it popped right out. If your pin is already mushroomed it might be a good idea to try something else, maybe go to Lowes and grab a graded bolt that is the same size and use that instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mine was super simple, granted I was doing it to a new car that had never seen a single winter. I hit the pin a couple times with a normal-ish sized hammer and it popped right out. If your pin is already mushroomed it might be a good idea to try something else, maybe go to Lowes and grab a graded bolt that is the same size and use that instead.
I think the person who sold my the shifter said it was a #8 graded bolt. Does that sound about right?
 

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Took me about an hour and this is the first car I have wrenched heavily on. I used a standard hammer and let some wd-40 sit on it for 5-10 mins. Pretty simple imho.
 

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I purchased a breedt short shifter off of a member on here and I have yet to install it. I am wondering just how difficult this install is. I have done intakes, exhaust, sound symposer, and other simple things, but I wanted to make sure this was something I could do.

The pin the forum member sent me looks a bit mushroomed on each side so I don;t know if that will cause an issue when trying to knock the factory pin out. Any tips?
The Breedt-supplied drift pin is very soft and mushrooms/bends easily. It's barely 1-time use.

The Breedt-supplied bolt is Grade 8, yes, but the early ones came with only one nut. I reached out to Breedt about this and they agreed that double-nutting or using a Nylock nut would be better.

So since you'll want to go to the hardware store anyway to get a Nylock or additional nut (and some thread locker if you are really paranoid...) I'd recommend to go pick up a Grade 5 copy of the mounting bolt as well and use it as a drift to get the factory pin out. Be sure to use thread locker on the ball pin!

And as others have said, a little WD-40 and some patience will make the factor drift pin much easier to remove, tapping it out from the front to the back of the car.

BTW, to avoid losing the factory pin, use less forceful hammer blows, and as you get towards the end, don't knock the pin all the way out. Just knock it out far enough so that it is no longer in the gearbox shaft but still anchored in the factory shift arm. You'll knw you've gone far enough because the shift arm will be able to be rotated when the pin is clear of the shaft. At that point, just wiggle the factory shift arm upwards, with the pin still in it, and you are good to go.

If you want to be extra clever, once the factory shift arm is clear of the car, pull the pin all the way out with a pliers, and then start to push it in from the front of the arm. In that way, if you ever return to stock, it's all ready to go.

One other thing... the Breedt shift arm has probably the lowest rotating mass of any, so expect shifting to be pretty "notchy". In my case, I wanted the 1" forward setting and tried the 40% reduction but found it too notchy, so I settled on the 25% reduction. While I would have preferred a slightly smaller throw, for me the amount of notchiness at 25% reduction is great. This is a taste/preference thing so don't be afraid to play around with it and enjoy!

All the best,
Mark
 

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The Breedt-supplied drift pin is very soft and mushrooms/bends easily. It's barely 1-time use.

The Breedt-supplied bolt is Grade 8, yes, but the early ones came with only one nut. I reached out to Breedt about this and they agreed that double-nutting or using a Nylock nut would be better.

So since you'll want to go to the hardware store anyway to get a Nylock or additional nut (and some thread locker if you are really paranoid...) I'd recommend to go pick up a Grade 5 copy of the mounting bolt as well and use it as a drift to get the factory pin out. Be sure to use thread locker on the ball pin!

And as others have said, a little WD-40 and some patience will make the factor drift pin much easier to remove, tapping it out from the front to the back of the car.

BTW, to avoid losing the factory pin, use less forceful hammer blows, and as you get towards the end, don't knock the pin all the way out. Just knock it out far enough so that it is no longer in the gearbox shaft but still anchored in the factory shift arm. You'll knw you've gone far enough because the shift arm will be able to be rotated when the pin is clear of the shaft. At that point, just wiggle the factory shift arm upwards, with the pin still in it, and you are good to go.

If you want to be extra clever, once the factory shift arm is clear of the car, pull the pin all the way out with a pliers, and then start to push it in from the front of the arm. In that way, if you ever return to stock, it's all ready to go.

One other thing... the Breedt shift arm has probably the lowest rotating mass of any, so expect shifting to be pretty "notchy". In my case, I wanted the 1" forward setting and tried the 40% reduction but found it too notchy, so I settled on the 25% reduction. While I would have preferred a slightly smaller throw, for me the amount of notchiness at 25% reduction is great. This is a taste/preference thing so don't be afraid to play around with it and enjoy!

All the best,
Mark
See I LIKE the notchiness. It feels mechanical and less floppy to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am pretty sure I am going to go with position 3 or 4.
 

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I will tell you, I used one of my intake manifold bolts as a starter punch on that roll pin and it was perfect! The diameter is perfect, and it is tough enough to take the beating from the hammer ... well, I used a lead pipe as a hammer, but whatever ...

I used that to get it started, then used another random bolt that I didn't care about to take it out the rest of the way (which was a breeze after that).

EDIT: The key to this whole operation if your roll pin is being stubborn is having the right diameter punch. If it is too small, it will just wedge itself inside of the roll pin.
 
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