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I wonder how it would be to hard wire a phone line "power cable" from my Bell Pro 200 on my 2018 ST1?
this is exactly what I did.

my Radar detector is a Escort Max 360. Beltronic detectors are the lite version of Escort's so they use the same basic and smart power cords with the RJ45 (telephone) connector. but because of where I was mounting it right under the mirror and well within reach, I didn't need a separate mute button like the one on the Smart Cord. I just took a 12' standard phone cable and cut the RJ45 connector off of one end. I had to do a little testing to figure out which wire was which but it wasn't too hard with a DMM. two of the wires ended up being for power and ground, one of the other wires could be hooked to a switch for the mute wire and I was guessing the last wire was the feedback for the flashing light next to the Smart Cord's mute wire.

As long as that fuse 85 had Acc/Ign power, it would be fine
 

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I got mine wired up, but it doesn't work with the add-a-fuse for some reason. It works wrapped around the fuse blade, but every now and then I will get a low volt warning when starting the car for a few seconds.
 

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I got mine wired up, but it doesn't work with the add-a-fuse for some reason. It works wrapped around the fuse blade, but every now and then I will get a low volt warning when starting the car for a few seconds.
did you fill both fuse slots on the add a fuse?

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did you fill both fuse slots on the add a fuse?

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Yeah I did. I put 10a fuses in both slots and nothing. I even tried a straight wire and nothing. It was weird, but I'm thinking its because of the tiny RJ11 cable being twisted with the larger gauge wire doesn't seem to work.

All I need to figure out is how to stop that low volt warning when starting the car.
 

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when you say you're getting a low voltage warning, is this on the radar detector?

If yes, then that will be totally normal, the radar detector is being power on during crank. the high current requirements of the starter will cause a small voltage drop.
 

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when you say you're getting a low voltage warning, is this on the radar detector?

If yes, then that will be totally normal, the radar detector is being power on during crank. the high current requirements of the starter will cause a small voltage drop.
Yeah. I redid the wiring and made sure my connections were secure. The longer the car has been sitting, the longer the low voltage warning flashes. This morning it was flashing low voltage for like 20 seconds before finally coming on. This is normal right? If so, then I'll just leave it alone.
I do wish there was a better connection somehow.
 

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Every radar brand Handel's this a little differently...

There are a couple of ways aroud this problem. First, you should try to grab power from an ACC circuit instead of an ignition circuit. This way the radar wont turn on until the car is already started and should never show a low voltage warning. This is really hard with cars with smart keys. And when I was looking around through the diagrams, the only acc wore I saw was a negative acc wire at the BCM. and to use a neg signal you'd have to use a relay triggered off of that wire to power up the devices.


A likely easier way to do it would be to solder a diode online with the power wire to keep it from back feeding, then after the diode you can solder a small capacitor into the circuit. Then when the car cranks and the voltage drops a little bit, the capacitor would provide a little extra power to keep it from thinking the power lever is too low. Down side of this is that let's say the capacitor can provide power to the detector for 10-15 seconds on its own (realistically only needs 5 secs or so of power reserve) the any real warning you would get would also have a 10-15 second delay before letting you know (honestly not a big deal) but more of an annoyance would be that every time you shut off the car, instead of power quickly disappearing instantly, it would slowly drain and while it's draining it will likely give you a low voltage warning every time you get out of the car.

This could be solved with some creative circuit making, it at that point the first option is simpler, easier, and quicker to do.



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My dashcam and radar detector are already connected to Fuse 85, pretty much in accordance to this sticky. Now, I want to add a couple of USB charging ports and thought of adding another 12-5V converter to a different fuse so as to not overload the same one that I have my dashcam and radar detector attached to.

Any reason I shouldn't use fuse 61 for this? This is the one that connects to the cigarette lighter from the fuse diagram sticky.

Thanks!
 
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