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Here's my question. Not sure if it's been answered yet as I'm sure I missed a few posts in here, but I needed to hook up an amplifier as well as hardwire my radar. Would I be able to do that all on one add a circuit or would I have to use two different add a circuits? I need switch 12 for my amp and obviously switch 12 for the radar. Any ideas?
Your referring to the remote wire? If so, I don't see why not. Worst you'll do is pop a fuse. But I should work.
 

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Your referring to the remote wire? If so, I don't see why not. Worst you'll do is pop a fuse. But I should work.
Yeah I figured as much. And if that happens, I'll just bump up a little in amperage. I'm just currently stuck at how many subs I want and how the hell I'm gonna put a box in the trunk of this thing. I'm leaning toward making my own, but I like having something ported.
 

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I hear ya man.

If it does blow the fuse, (I don't think it will) just grab another add a circuit and run two circuits. Bumping up fuses is risky
 

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I hear ya man.

If it does blow the fuse, (I don't think it will) just grab another add a circuit and run two circuits. Bumping up fuses is risky
Yeah. I've done it a few times in different situations and been successful, but I don't wanna run the risk.
 

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I just got my new radar detector and add-a-circuit...the fuse on the cigarette lighter says F2AL 250V. I looked online and people say to use a 10 amp fuse for the the circuit. Is that right?

Edit: I put in a 7.5 amp fuse to match the heated seats fuse. I haven't blown it yet so we'll see what happens.
 

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question on placement/sunscreen

I want to hardwire a radar up by the mirror but would also like a sunscreen to protect the car in the summer, is there any way to do this without taking down the full set up each time? do people have the UVS100 with a hardwired radar? tried to find an answer other places but havent been able to
 

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question on placement/sunscreen

I want to hardwire a radar up by the mirror but would also like a sunscreen to protect the car in the summer, is there any way to do this without taking down the full set up each time? do people have the UVS100 with a hardwired radar? tried to find an answer other places but havent been able to
I bought this so I wouldn't have to deal with suction cups on the windshield in the Winter. I haven't gotten it yet but I'd assume something like it would work well in your case.
 

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so I want to do this but at the same time I would love to wire in my garmin dash cam and my k40 radar...should I be able to wire them both into the same fuse with a add a circuit or should I find another fuse to tap into?
 

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I'm not an electrical engineer, but I would think you could use one Add-A-Circuit with a higher amperage fuse. Then, use lower amperage inline fuses on the wiring of each device.
 

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Hey, if anyone could assist me in this process, that would be great. I'm not electrically inclined and spent about an hour yesterday afternoon trying to figure out what goes where for my V1. Currently have a 14 ST3. I got an add-a-circuit from an autoparts store as instructed and am confused on how to properly connect it to the V1 power cord. If anyone could get me pics of how they did, I would be most appreciative! I'll try to get pics of where I'm at at some point today. Thanks!
 

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Hey good news guys! I played around with it some more tonight and I got it to work, got super excited when it finally turned on and off with the ignition. Apparently I was just missing the mini 2 amp fuse. So to clarify, in fuse 85 I have the 7.5 amp for the heated seats and a 2 amp minifuse in the slot below it plugged in. Does that sound right? It worked so there's that but I want to be absolutely sure I have everything plugged in right.
 
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Can I run both a dashcam and a radar detector off of block 85 at the same time or will it need a different slot?
 

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Hey there, I just wired my Nuvi up and had the idea to power it from the dome light. Since it powers up with the door it gives the GPS a little more boot-up time, and does not power off as soon as you shut down. Used this hardware kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WN4RL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and removed the microphone (2016 ST1) and was able to pull the wire through the headliner. Decided rather than screw with the wires that are up in the headliner I just unplugged the dome light, took it down into the cool basement and soldered an extension wire to it. Positive on the right outside lead, negative on the left outside lead. My scheme there is if I screw up the dome light I can get another dome light, if I screw up the wires behind the headliner I have really screwed up. With an ohm meter I figured out what leads lead to the light bulb, so the GPS will have the same behavior. I have not driven it yet but when I start the car the dome light goes off and the GPS stays powered up, so I expect it will be OK.
Wire Soldered To Dome Light.jpg Crappy Photo of Crappy Solder Job.jpg
Crimped the wires to the hardwire kit and zip tied everything up and put the light and microphone back in place. The light is fused so the GPS is fused, if I blow that fuse I will put an LED bulb in the dome light.

I used the RAM mount that clamps on the arm of the mirror:
RAM Mount.jpg
Nuvi.jpg
 

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Just did this for my dash cam. So simple. Thanks!
 

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Used this today to install a dash cam. Many thanks to the OP.
 

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I hard wired a G1W-B behind my rear view mirror following these guidelines and instructions.

Power to the unit works great and the install is super clean. However, having the power run as instructed has cut my radio reception in half. I say in half because I get about half the distance outside of my area before it goes to static. If I remove power from the headliner and a few inches from the A pillar reception clears up.

I've placed the cam in different locations lower on the windshield and run the power without affecting the radio, but the video angle and obstruction while driving is much worse.

Anyone else have an issue like this and overcome it?

I have also wrapped the power cord in vinyl electric tape hoping this will help. I haven't tested completely, but so far it doesn't seemed to have made a difference.

Thoughts on how to shield this cable to avoid interface?
Has anyone else ran into reception issue after the install? I think I am having the same problem since my radar and dash cam install.


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