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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a COBB short shift plate last week and it is now very difficult to shift into gear, primarily 2nd from 3rd. 2nd from 3rd has always been a bit tricky in my car, as sometimes it feels like the throw gets miss-aligned and catches, then i'll throw it into neutral then back into 2nd where it slots cleanly. Now that my throws are shorter it seems like the resistance issue has been amplified and most of the time the throw is not "clean" and I will have to kind of force it into gear. This can happen in all gears but 2nd has always been an issue from 3rd. The only time I grind gears is when I downshift from 3rd to 2nd and the throw gets caught and I have already dropped the clutch.

I have a 2015 ST2 w/ 53k miles. I recently did a tranny oil flush and the oil that was removed was in pretty good shape with no metal fragments or shavings in it. I believe my transmission is in good shape and am wondering if it's a linkage issue or something. Is there a spot in the shifter assembly that needs to be oiled or serviced?

Thanks!
 

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I installed a COBB short shift plate last week and it is now very difficult to shift into gear, primarily 2nd from 3rd. 2nd from 3rd has always been a bit tricky in my car, as sometimes it feels like the throw gets miss-aligned and catches, then i'll throw it into neutral then back into 2nd where it slots cleanly. Now that my throws are shorter it seems like the resistance issue has been amplified and most of the time the throw is not "clean" and I will have to kind of force it into gear. This can happen in all gears but 2nd has always been an issue from 3rd. The only time I grind gears is when I downshift from 3rd to 2nd and the throw gets caught and I have already dropped the clutch.

I have a 2015 ST2 w/ 53k miles. I recently did a tranny oil flush and the oil that was removed was in pretty good shape with no metal fragments or shavings in it. I believe my transmission is in good shape and am wondering if it's a linkage issue or something. Is there a spot in the shifter assembly that needs to be oiled or serviced?

Thanks!
Adding the short shift bracket will add to the force needed to shift as you have removed a percentage of the mechanical advantage the "longer" position provided. Did you perform a cable adjustment after your installation?

 

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Bought my st a few months back and it also has the Cobb short throw shift plate. I've noticed that 2nd to 3rd is not a smooth transition either. The issue is worse when I shift at an higher rpm. I line it up the same way I do when shift at lower rpm shift and always have clutch fully depressed but same thing happens at higher rpm. Previous owner said they replaced one shifter bushing with an upgraded one but not the other. Its almost as if I cant get it into gear when I attempt the shift and have to retry with a blip of the throttle.

Anyone have any idea?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Adding the short shift bracket will add to the force needed to shift as you have removed a percentage of the mechanical advantage the "longer" position provided. Did you perform a cable adjustment after your installation?
I did do a cable adjustment after install. Doesn't seem like it did much tho.

Is there an area in the shifter assembly that needs to be oiled or something? It feels like a problem that some grease or oil might solve.

Bought my st a few months back and it also has the Cobb short throw shift plate. I've noticed that 2nd to 3rd is not a smooth transition either. The issue is worse when I shift at an higher rpm. I line it up the same way I do when shift at lower rpm shift and always have clutch fully depressed but same thing happens at higher rpm. Previous owner said they replaced one shifter bushing with an upgraded one but not the other. Its almost as if I cant get it into gear when I attempt the shift and have to retry with a blip of the throttle.

Anyone have any idea?
I know what you mean, it feels like the car try's to prevent you from shifting into a gear if the RPM's are not matched. It's like the car is trying to lock me out of a gear throw haha. I'm not sure what that is about.
 

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I think you also have a good RMM? That's important for shift feel too, not just stopping wheel hop.

I have the jbr arm set at 40% reduction. Motul DCTF at over 43k mi. Some gears were a lot harder than others after I first put it on, even after cable reset.

I later added the solid cable ends that made a big improvement, they remove the squishy rubber parts inside stock ones. Look over the install instructions to see what is involved, destroying the stock cable ends and reusing the inserts from them. I have the jbr for that too, but I think there's at least a couple other options.

I haven't yet installed any trans cable bracket or shifter base solid bushings, seems better in ST than last car I did put those on. That might further improve shift feel.

Edit
Might want to double check for shift arm rubbing on other parts on top of trans too.
 

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Also, I have the solid shift bracket mounts already. I will be doing the solid shifter cable bushings as well when I eventually get to it, haha.
 

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I think you also have a good RMM? That's important for shift feel too, not just stopping wheel hop.

I have the jbr arm set at 40% reduction. Motul DCTF at over 43k mi. Some gears were a lot harder than others after I first put it on, even after cable reset.

I later added the solid cable ends that made a big improvement, they remove the squishy rubber parts inside stock ones. Look over the install instructions to see what is involved, destroying the stock cable ends and reusing the inserts from them. I have the jbr for that too, but I think there's at least a couple other options.

I haven't yet installed any trans cable bracket or shifter base solid bushings, seems better in ST than last car I did put those on. That might further improve shift feel.

Edit
Might want to double check for shift arm rubbing on other parts on top of trans too.
Great info, I'll look into that and give it a shot as well.
 

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I did do a cable adjustment after install. Doesn't seem like it did much tho.

Is there an area in the shifter assembly that needs to be oiled or something? It feels like a problem that some grease or oil might solve.



I know what you mean, it feels like the car try's to prevent you from shifting into a gear if the RPM's are not matched. It's like the car is trying to lock me out of a gear throw haha. I'm not sure what that is about.
Exactly!! Like I'm getting rejected form 3rd gear. Smh. I am trying not to put a negative outlook on the FOST, I came from a 9th gen civic si and the tranny was slick and I had it since mile 2, put acuity bushings and it was like butter. This is my first experience with a ford and a turbocharged car altogether. So I'm new to the tranny feel. But I love the car and want to work on it and get thru this rough patch. I don't even do this with my actual gfs. 🤷😅
 

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@Krod4359 my shift setup is 100% stock and the reason im leaving it alone is because it shifts like BUTTER even at 6k rpm. Seamless shifts. I wonder if these shifter mods are really that detrimental to the smoothness of the shift.
 

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@Krod4359 my shift setup is 100% stock and the reason im leaving it alone is because it shifts like BUTTER even at 6k rpm. Seamless shifts. I wonder if these shifter mods are really that detrimental to the smoothness of the shift.
That makes me want to revert back to stock. I mean i really like the feel of the short throws but if they're not smooth and fluid going into gear then what's the point. I'll try the cable adjustment and swap out bushings to see if that helps. If it fails I'll revert and you'll see the plate FS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
@Krod4359 my shift setup is 100% stock and the reason im leaving it alone is because it shifts like BUTTER even at 6k rpm. Seamless shifts. I wonder if these shifter mods are really that detrimental to the smoothness of the shift.
Short shift plates definitely affect the smoothness because the throw is essentially condensed and amplifies any characteristics. In my case, my throws are stiffer and the 3rd to 2nd issue, which was a minor quirk is now significantly more pronounced.

I’m going to get the JBR Weighted shift arm and bushings. The COBB shift plate just ruins the feel.


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
 

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2016 Black ST2. E30, FSWERK FMIC, Cobb- RMM,SSD,Short throw shifter, intake,with big mouth snorkel.
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Haven’t had any problem. I have the Cobb gen 2. Makes it so much easier to install. Hmm lock tight??
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Haven’t had any problem. I have the Cobb gen 2. Makes it so much easier to install. Hmm lock tight??
I used loctite. It just comes down to the shift throw distance.


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
 

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I used loctite. It just comes down to the shift throw distance.


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
I have the JBR short shift arm set at 20% and the stock shifter rod cut down about 1 1/2" because I didn't like how tall it was. I tried it at 40% reduction and it was just too much (too hard and kept missing shifts). I also have the cable end bushings (which made a TON of difference in how sloppy/spongy the shifter felt), the shifter base bushings, and the transmission-side base bushings. The base bushings (both sets), honestly, didn't make any difference from what I could tell.
 

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I have the JBR short shift arm set at 20% and the stock shifter rod cut down about 1 1/2" because I didn't like how tall it was. I tried it at 40% reduction and it was just too much (too hard and kept missing shifts). I also have the cable end bushings (which made a TON of difference in how sloppy/spongy the shifter felt), the shifter base bushings, and the transmission-side base bushings. The base bushings (both sets), honestly, didn't make any difference from what I could tell.
I will definitely be changing the cable end bushings and reduce the increase the throw up see if makes a difference. You're right the bigger the reduction the more difficult to shift. Do you recommend the jbr shift arm hands down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have the JBR short shift arm set at 20% and the stock shifter rod cut down about 1 1/2" because I didn't like how tall it was. I tried it at 40% reduction and it was just too much (too hard and kept missing shifts). I also have the cable end bushings (which made a TON of difference in how sloppy/spongy the shifter felt), the shifter base bushings, and the transmission-side base bushings. The base bushings (both sets), honestly, didn't make any difference from what I could tell.
Just ordered the JBR short shift arm and cable bushings this morning. I’m looking forward to the install.

I have the shifter base bushings already but after watching a couple install videos, I’m Good off that. Taking apart half my interior doesn’t do it for me. Lol

I love working on my car, but actively avoid taking apart interior trim panels if it can be avoided. They are hella frustrating and they never quite seem to fit the same even if I’m careful.


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I will definitely be changing the cable end bushings and reduce the increase the throw up see if makes a difference. You're right the bigger the reduction the more difficult to shift. Do you recommend the jbr shift arm hands down?
From the research I’ve done it seems to be the best design and the best upgrade for feel short of replacing the shifter internals. Plus I’m not taking apart most of my center console to do it.

If I feel the need to upgrade the shifter itself, I’ll get the Ford Racing one and pay a Ford Dealer to do it lol


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
 
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