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So I was shopping over at Boomba for a shifter and noticed lots of different options and now I don't know what to do!! bushings, shifter, adaptor plates, etc, etc. So what do I actually need? I am happy with the length of the shifter. My goal is just to firm things up and get that solid feel from the gates. Do I just want the adaptor plate and maybe the bushings? Or is their package the way to go?
 

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Lots of threads on this. This one has a lot of information that should help. http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-accessories/24389-show-off-your-shifter-setups.html

Aluminum bushings are so cheap it's silly not to do them, that will make the shifter feel much more solid. Pair that with either a shift plate or actual shift arm to reduce the throw. A shift arm/assembly will lower the knob some and reduce the throw, a shift plate mounts to the tranny and just reduces the throw. A lot of people, like myself, do both. Everyone will have their opinion on what is best but go with what seems like the best value to you. I have the FRPP assembly and it feels great, but didn't reduce the throw as much as I wanted (I wouldn't have spent $300+ on the FRPP, my car had it on when I bought it), so I added the FSwerks shift plate that has 3 levels of reduction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea, sorry to start another thread on the same ol stuff. I was still learning if the solid mechanical feel is in the shifter or in the tranny plate? Or if either will improve the feel? Like I said, searching for a more solid feel/engagement over distance of throw.
 

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Keep in mind with the shift reduction plate on the trans, the more you decrease the throw, the more shift effort is required on your part. Like @Bryman13 I have the FSWerks Plate and thought "oh awesome, I'll just reduce the throw as much as possible", and did the 40% reduction setting. Well, shift throw is shorter, but if I am shifting very quickly, I've missed gears a couple of times because I wasn't putting as much effort as I was used to at first. A heavier shift knob may help, but I like the look of the stock one and I refuse to shell out $100 for a chunk of metal. I got used to it, but I may back it off to the 30% setting next time I have the airbox off.
 

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Keep in mind with the shift reduction plate on the trans, the more you decrease the throw, the more shift effort is required on your part. Like @Bryman13 I have the FSWerks Plate and thought "oh awesome, I'll just reduce the throw as much as possible", and did the 40% reduction setting. Well, shift throw is shorter, but if I am shifting very quickly, I've missed gears a couple of times because I wasn't putting as much effort as I was used to at first. A heavier shift knob may help, but I like the look of the stock one and I refuse to shell out $100 for a chunk of metal. I got used to it, but I may back it off to the 30% setting next time I have the airbox off.
Yeah, I do have a heavy knob and that makes a difference for sure. I also reduced mine to the 30% spot, combined with my FRPP that's plenty short for me, and not too much effort to get in gear.

Yea, sorry to start another thread on the same ol stuff. I was still learning if the solid mechanical feel is in the shifter or in the tranny plate? Or if either will improve the feel? Like I said, searching for a more solid feel/engagement over distance of throw.
Anything you do will make it feel notchier. The solid bushings are a must imo, they make the shifting feel more precise, with less play. The advantage of a shift assembly and not just the plate is that it keeps the connection at the tranny in the stock position, which some people have complained makes it a little more difficult to get into gear at times. There are so many options available that I can't say what the best is, all I can say is I'm very happy with my setup. Whatever you do, a heavier knob will help you get it into gear a little smoother.
 

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I found that with the aluminum bushings (bracket and shifter base), I don't have that issue of trying to put it in R or 1 and having to "wiggle" it in from time to time...like it was stuck, or the transmission was on the wrong gear tooth...make sense? Or am I the only one that had that issue?
 

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I found that with the aluminum bushings (bracket and shifter base), I don't have that issue of trying to put it in R or 1 and having to "wiggle" it in from time to time...like it was stuck, or the transmission was on the wrong gear tooth...make sense? Or am I the only one that had that issue?
All the time
 

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I found that with the aluminum bushings (bracket and shifter base), I don't have that issue of trying to put it in R or 1 and having to "wiggle" it in from time to time...like it was stuck, or the transmission was on the wrong gear tooth...make sense? Or am I the only one that had that issue?
I get it in reverse sometimes but that's it, and if I put it in first before going into reverse it makes it easier.


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I did my bushings on the shifter and transmission and it made a huge difference. Then I shortened it up to the max, it makes shifting into reverse a little harder but overall much better.

If you are unsure, just change the bushings first, it would be a few hours and like 40-50 dollars and it would make a huge difference.
 

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If you're happy with the stock shifter throw but want a more firm overall feel, solid bushings will go a long way. Boomba has a great set of shifter base and cable bracket bushings available that will remove a lot of the play even in the stock setup. A lot of people overlook the cable end bushing though, and I personally think that one gives the most noticeable difference. The stock bushing is extremely soft and there's a lot of slop in the shifter because of it. NTC or similar solid cable end bushing does a LOT to firm up the shifter feel, and it's the easiest of the three to install.

If you do decide to go with a short shifter or a shift plate/arm, I highly recommend the Boomba short shifter and/or the Breedt shift arm. Both are high quality kits and really make a significant difference in the way the car shifts. Between the bushings, the short shift lever, and the shift arm, I'm absolutely in love with my setup and I've had several others try it out and tell me how much they like it as well. I'm in STL too, so if we ever get a chance to meet up I'd be more than happy to let you check out my setup and see how different it feels.
 

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...

If you do decide to go with a short shifter or a shift plate/arm, I highly recommend the Boomba short shifter and/or the Breedt shift arm.
Just out of curiosity why did you go with a short shifter from one manufacturer and a shift arm from another. Did you do this at two different times?
 

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Just out of curiosity why did you go with a short shifter from one manufacturer and a shift arm from another. Did you do this at two different times?
Here is where things get confusing with the nomenclature.

You have the shifter that you put your hand on. Which Boomba calls the Short Throw Shifter. Which is the lever next to your seat, inside the car.

Then you have a "arm" on the transmission. Which you can replace in it's entirety, or bolt on a short shift plate. In all of my trials and testing, the replacement arm surpasses the bolt on parts, everytime. For speed, shifter feel and finally adjustments.

There are two sets of bushings that you can replace. On set under the center consul where the shift lever is.

The other set is bolted onto the trans. Replacing the stock rubber bushings with aluminum ones will yeild tighter crisper shifts, due to eliminating the play that the rubber gives.

Playing with knob weights, sizes and designs further customizes your shifting experience.

Final mods are to replace the pivot ends of the shifter cables, there are two products that I know of and only one that I will suggest. There are the two piece machined aluminum replacement ends on ebay. They offer a zero failure replacement, and tighten up both cable ends in the engine bay, not just one. I have put quite some hard miles on mine, with no issues or problems. Just crisper, tighter shifts.

To actually answer your question, he went with a boomba lever, and the Breedt replacement arm, Boomba just offers a bolt-on plate for the trans side.
 

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Is there any benefit to getting a shift plate/arm if you were to keep the stock throw setting?
Stock throw length? Or stock shifter position in neutral?

Levers and plate/arms are for reducing the length of travel for the shifter to engage into gear, normally expressed in a percentage of reduction. Which compounds of sorts, if you use a new shifter lever, and then either a plate or arm at the trans.

The bushings and cable ends are just for shifter "feel"

I think I may make a nice sticky of all this, since it seems to be coming up more and more.
 

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Just out of curiosity why did you go with a short shifter from one manufacturer and a shift arm from another. Did you do this at two different times?
Like Deuce said: The short shifter is the actual shift lever, the piece that you articulate in the cabin. The shift arm is the S-shaped piece that attaches to the transmission.

And I did do both of them at the same time, although I drove around the block once or twice with just the Boomba piece installed before going ahead with installing the Breedt piece.


Is there any benefit to getting a shift plate/arm if you were to keep the stock throw setting?
A shift arm/plate will reduce the throw from stock. If you're looking for the stock throw but with a more solid feel, replace your bushings. If you want to reduce the throw, replace the shift lever and/or shift arm/plate.
 

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Also about doing a breedt shift arm, Boomba makes a shift plate that goes on top of the current transmission shift arm, they do not make a separate arm like Breedt does, so buying a boomba one isn't an option.

Now what is the difference? Once adds another component to your set up (boomba) while the other (breedt) replaces and existing OEM part. Some people don't want a middle man so to speak and would rather just replace the whole shift arm.
 

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I installed the boomba short throw shifter, jbr shift knob and all of the bushings the other night... love the set up. Then i tried to install the Breedt shifter arm and realized i lost the ball stud after i had the air and battery boxes out. Lol on the hunt now to find another ball stud if anyone has ideas, all of the hardware and racing stores around me don't carry em
 
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