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Also, in regards to installing the camshafts. There is a special took that ford designed that aligns the camshaft for you. If you install the camshaft in any degree other than in time, you can't install the tool. At which point the Technician should stop and figure out whats going on with the camshafts.
 
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47. NOTICE:
Install the camshafts with the alignment slots in the camshafts lined up so the Camshaft Alignment Plate can be installed without rotating the
camshafts. ( because they are slotted offset) Make sure the lobes on the No. 1 cylinder are in the same position as noted in the removal procedure. Rotating the camshafts
when the timing chain is removed, or installing the camshafts 180 degrees out of position can cause severe damage to the valves and pistons.
NOTICE:
Failure to follow the camshaft tightening procedure can result in damage to the camshafts.
NOTICE:
Wipe off any excess sealer from the fuel injection pump housing sealing surface of the cylinder head and rear camshaft cap.
NOTE:
Lubricate the camshaft journals and camshaft bearing caps with clean engine oil.
Apply the specified lubricant to the specified component.
Material: Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil.
Install the camshafts and bearing caps in their original location and orientation. Tighten the camshaft bearing caps 2 turns at a time in the sequence
shown in 2 stages:
• Stage 1: Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
• Stage 2: Tighten to 16 Nm (142 lb-in).

The alignment tool cant be put in with a cam 180 out. Look at the pic the slot for the tool is not in the center of the cam.
Auto part Muffler Metal Steel
I asked about the chain because if you dont rotate the phaser a little the tensioner will not fully lock out and there will be slack between the phasers. That will cause you to be a tooth off. @tpiechow your right about the sensor. Mine had 2 different part#'s so I made sure they went in the same hole. The sensor has since gotten a new part # and is the same. So I'm just gonna ask it. Did you try and time the motor without a timing set?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I used Massive Speed's timing tool set, and ordered a crank shaft sensor alignment tool. Both were used in the timing process.
When ford went back in to correct their timing chain since we were off at first, they did their thing...they didn't explain what they did to me at all when I was there to pick up the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thankyou everyone for the input.
Heading to Flagstaff over the weekend so I wont' be able to work on the car. Please continue to comment and suggest.
 

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Thankyou everyone for the input.
Heading to Flagstaff over the weekend so I wont' be able to work on the car. Please continue to comment and suggest.

Have you run a compression and leakdown test?

If the cams are way out of alignment between themselves and/or relative to the crank, then the compression will likely be low across all cylinders. And then you'll know for sure you have an assembly issue.

All the best,
Mark
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Compression on all 4 cylinders are at 155 to 157 psi, Leak-down test passed.

Ordered a new crank shaft sensor. Since i took the old sensor out, it is highly recommended it be replaced with a new sensor. The part was 60$
 

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So far 7,345$ into the build....
Do not despair; you are almost there!

You've got spark, you've got fuel and you've got compression. With an interference engine assembled wrongly, it could have been much worse.

So, yes, a new crank sensor and verifying that all the engine harness connections are made properly is the next step. Back to basics; it's clearly at this point almost assuredly an electrical issue. Assume nothing; double check everything!

Look for (in hindsight) "dumb" things: For example, the harness tees out to connect to the MAP sensor on the intake manifold as well as a sensor on the cylinder head; any chance those two connectors got swapped? (Not sure that they can be, but last time I removed my intake manifold they looked near identical...)

Good luck! Keep us posted!

All the best,
Mark
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Do not despair; you are almost there!

You've got NO spark, you've got fuel and you've got compression. With an interference engine assembled wrongly, it could have been much worse.

So, yes, a new crank sensor and verifying that all the engine harness connections are made properly is the next step. Back to basics; it's clearly at this point almost assuredly an electrical issue. Assume nothing; double check everything!

Look for (in hindsight) "dumb" things: For example, the harness tees out to connect to the MAP sensor on the intake manifold as well as a sensor on the cylinder head; any chance those two connectors got swapped? (Not sure that they can be, but last time I removed my intake manifold they looked near identical...)

Good luck! Keep us posted!

All the best,
Mark
Fixed it for ya
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
47. NOTICE:
Install the camshafts with the alignment slots in the camshafts lined up so the Camshaft Alignment Plate can be installed without rotating the
camshafts. ( because they are slotted offset) Make sure the lobes on the No. 1 cylinder are in the same position as noted in the removal procedure. Rotating the camshafts
when the timing chain is removed, or installing the camshafts 180 degrees out of position can cause severe damage to the valves and pistons.
NOTICE:
Failure to follow the camshaft tightening procedure can result in damage to the camshafts.
NOTICE:
Wipe off any excess sealer from the fuel injection pump housing sealing surface of the cylinder head and rear camshaft cap.
NOTE:
Lubricate the camshaft journals and camshaft bearing caps with clean engine oil.
Apply the specified lubricant to the specified component.
Material: Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil.
Install the camshafts and bearing caps in their original location and orientation. Tighten the camshaft bearing caps 2 turns at a time in the sequence
shown in 2 stages:
• Stage 1: Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
• Stage 2: Tighten to 16 Nm (142 lb-in).

The alignment tool cant be put in with a cam 180 out. Look at the pic the slot for the tool is not in the center of the cam.
View attachment 201234
I asked about the chain because if you dont rotate the phaser a little the tensioner will not fully lock out and there will be slack between the phasers. That will cause you to be a tooth off. @tpiechow your right about the sensor. Mine had 2 different part#'s so I made sure they went in the same hole. The sensor has since gotten a new part # and is the same. So I'm just gonna ask it. Did you try and time the motor without a timing set?
this is a great picture thanks. I want to say I Appreciate the information, thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Do not despair; you are almost there!

You've got spark, you've got fuel and you've got compression. With an interference engine assembled wrongly, it could have been much worse.

So, yes, a new crank sensor and verifying that all the engine harness connections are made properly is the next step. Back to basics; it's clearly at this point almost assuredly an electrical issue. Assume nothing; double check everything!

Look for (in hindsight) "dumb" things: For example, the harness tees out to connect to the MAP sensor on the intake manifold as well as a sensor on the cylinder head; any chance those two connectors got swapped? (Not sure that they can be, but last time I removed my intake manifold they looked near identical...)

Good luck! Keep us posted!

All the best,
Mark
Thank you for all the information! You're inbox is full by the way. :smile:
 

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Anytime; yes just got the Inbox Full alert - thanks!

Good luck!
Mark
 

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Still non-operational
However, I had a dream I was driving the car, Although in my dream 2nd gear was a bit fussy, it had no pwr steering and brakes were bad. It was a awesome dream non the less. Woke up and for a split sec. I was happy, then back to being sad.
sorry man :crying:
 

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We'll see what happens after the new crank sensor goes in...fingers crossed please everyone.
Why limit the crossing to just fingers???

Good luck!!

All the best,
Mark
 
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Have you checked your fuses? Always start with the basics
 
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