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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So you all know I've been building an engine, however its taken me six months to get things sort-of-right.
I'm having an electrical issue it seems. The car wont start, it seems to just turn over but no spark.
I replaced the coil packs-still no spark (purchased a spark tool to see if I'm getting any) no spark on all 4.
I will be replacing the crank sensor for a new one since it was taken out.
New battery, I did re-use the old crank sensor and was aligned properly.
Engine harness was not tampered with, carefully disconnected all sensors off engine block before taking out of the bay.
I was told that if the ECU sits for a long time learning value goes out the window and becomes "stupid" and wont allow the car to start. Would the ECU need to be re-flashed by the dealership?

Lets back up a bit here....
two months ago we had spark, I tried to fire up the car when the engine was put in and all electrical was hooked up. I got a back fire...ok so there's spark but it didn't start it shut off. I tried it again, another backfire and nothing else.
So I had the car towed to a ford dealer. They diagnosed it to being a cam lobe was installed backwards, so they fixed it, they also noticed the timing chain was three teeth off south top end, that was fixed. I get the car back to button up everything and reconnect the turbo.
Everything was check and rechecked after buttoning up.

Now no spark at all. Due to the backfires i though it burned out the OEM engine coil packs(OEM packs had oil in them) so I purchased new ones-nothing....I have no idea whats going on now.
All grounds have been connected correctly.
No codes where thrown, wanted to add
I would love a bit of advise please and thank you.
 

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1. Probably you have already looked, but... Any codes, visible or not?

2. Also, how do you know you have no spark?

3. Lastly, is the resting voltage of the battery above 12.3V?

All the best,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1) no codes were thrown, all green across the board.

2) I used an old school method of checking for spark with a tester.

3) Battery died at teh ford dealership after sitting in their lot for a month, did a recharge to get the battery back to snuff. Sits on a trickle charger now.
 

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1) no codes were thrown, all green across the board.

2) I used an old school method of checking for spark with a tester.

3) Battery died at teh ford dealership after sitting in their lot for a month, did a recharge to get the battery back to snuff. Sits on a trickle charger now.
Original post says "new battery" though? But has the new battery been sitting discharged for six months? Again, resting voltage after it's been off the trickle charger for a few hours will tell a story...

But basically if you are getting spark and the cams & crank are aligned, the next question is: Are you getting fuel? There's a shutoff someplace, intended to be triggered in an accident, so the lpfp and hpfp don't spray fuel everywhere after a ruptured fuel line.

After cranking the motor with no success for a few seconds, if you pull a plug is it wet with fuel?

Good luck!
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
when the car is powered up the fuel pumps powers up as well, I do hear it, and smell fuel when cranking. No leaks.

The new battery has been in the car for about a month and a half, I discarded the old battery that has been sitting for 5 months.
 

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No spark at all but there was spark before it was brought in...strange. I wish the Ford dealer you went to could enlighten you on exactly what they did, because maybe in the process they messed with something they shouldn't have. You said you don't have a fuel issue in the previous post, so the amount of fuel is fine. Is the amount of air getting into the chamber the possible culprit?
I'm knowledgeable with how an engine is supposed to work, but not too familiar with our motors so if I'm adding absolutely nothing to this post then I'm sorry


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This is redundant but damn it sounds like a problem I had... I pulled and replaced my 03 SVTF motor and same thing, crank all day long and would not fire. I did not connect the ground by the motor mount, hard to see when all assembled. With that said I am guessing that was probably the first thing you checked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This is redundant but damn it sounds like a problem I had... I pulled and replaced my 03 SVTF motor and same thing, crank all day long and would not fire. I did not connect the ground by the motor mount, hard to see when all assembled. With that said I am guessing that was probably the first thing you checked.
witch motor mount?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ford should have only touched the timing and cam lobe. I have no idea what else they could of screwed up. However they returned the car to me without oil in the engine block...I brought it to them with oil in it...
Once the new Crank shaft sensor goes in, and is aligned properly and I still do not get spark, I guess the next plan is to take it to a different dealership (damn it!) see if they can "re-set" the ECU
 

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How does a cam lobe go in backwards? I'm not being a smartass but it's impossible. Did you have a timing set? The slot for the cams are offset so you cant put the timing set in backwards. Sounds like ford screwed the timing worse.

017.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
How does a cam lobe go in backwards? I'm not being a smartass but it's impossible. Did you have a timing set? The slot for the cams are offset so you cant put the timing set in backwards. Sounds like ford screwed the timing worse.

View attachment 200929
Ford screwing up something could be a very likely possibility. There's no notches on these things....
The mechanic informed me that the lobe was 180 degrees backwards and three teeth off sounds top end...
They sure wanted to get my car off the lot when they were done "fixing it" They didn't want to go any further (putting the car back together) due to the transmission being messed with. (new clutch kit)
 

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Ford screwing up something could be a very likely possibility. There's no notches on these things....
The mechanic informed me that the lobe was 180 degrees backwards and three teeth off sounds top end...
They sure wanted to get my car off the lot when they were done "fixing it" They didn't want to go any further (putting the car back together) due to the transmission being messed with. (new clutch kit)
There's no notches on your cams? Also if you were 180 out on the cam it would have smashed valves. This motor is interference. Did you tighten the chain tension before locking the phasers?
 

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Camshaft sensors will not cause the engine to not start. If they fail or are giving an implausible signal then the PCM will only read the CKP for ignition timing. If anything, they would cause the ignition timing to be wrong, which the car would start but run like crap. I am not sure what difference swapping sensor would do, they are exactly the same and they can't tell the difference between an intake camshaft and a exhaust camshaft. Unless you swap the associated circuits in the PCM as well.

Have you back probed the wires to the PCM from the coil? See if the PCM is even sending out battery voltage. The PCM should be sending out battery voltage to the coils when the ignition is on then ground the other circuit to excite the secondary coil.

In regards to the lobe being 180 out, this is only possible if all the lobes are 180 out. If I am not mistaken, all camshaft lobes with the exception of the one that runs the high pressure fuel pump are cast into the camshaft.

If you have solid powers and ground to the PCM then it is likely an issue with the PCM programming or the PCM itself.

When you were checking for DTC's, what kind of scan tool were you using? If you were not using a Ford IDS then there may be manufacture specific DTC's that will not show up on an AP or generic scan tool.

If you have an oscilloscope I would try to read the pattern on the CKP signal to make sure it is accurate and clean.
 
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