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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, I have a 2013 Focus ST 52k miles full turbo back exhaust, turbosmart 50/50 bov, cobb intake and recently got a cobb accessport.

I have recently had a full service, plugs changed, decat downpipe replaced as it had a slight hole in the flexi pipe along with a Compression test showing 160psi across all cylinders.

When purchasing the car 4 months ago I didn't notice any idle fluctuation but noticed after driving and getting up to temperature after sitting on idle for around 3 to 5 mins the car would start smoking white/grey but if I accelerated it would clear the smoke and then seem to stop until I let the revs off and resume idle after a few mins it would start smoking again. I took my car to a garage who told me it was a bad map so returned back to stock but still had the same issue. After driving with the stock map it definitely improved and seemed to smoke a lot less often some days I was unable to get it to smoke at all even if I tried. Since then I have also noticed a inconstant rough idle also but some days it will constantly be rough and some days the odd few occasions, I have since taken it to another garage who have not been able to get to the problem either unfortunately and I'm getting to the point where I feel much longer and I will have to get rid of the car as I havnt had chance to enjoy it so wondering if anyone can help at all.

Last week I got a Cobb Accessport, I have been learning a little about the gauges and what to monitor and noticed when my car is idling rough the AFR seems to bounce between lean and ritch, it will start on 14.7 and sometimes stay on that but after sat on idle for a while once the car is warm the the afr seems to drop leaner and keep going down to about 11 whilst this is happening my stft tries to correct but starting taking fuel away - 3, - 6, - 12 ect until it gets to - 28 and then at this point the afr eventually starts going from one end of the scale 11 rich to then back up to 16.... Then it repeats the process and keeps bouncing around. The second I touch the accelerator the car corrects to 14.7 always and seems to be steady on that reading whilst driving allthogh the fuel trims allways seem in the high negatives.

I had never had any codes come on the car before until today I had p26de code come up that seems to be sound symposer related (have a symposer delete kit coming) I have read this can cause a rough idle if it fails? Could this be my issue messing the trims up or any other suggestions? Also the smoke coming from the exhaust? Not sure this has anything to do with the symposer?

Any advice of next steps would be great, I have spend 拢400 upto now taking to places and still no further with finding the problem.

I can provide any logs or videos needed.


Thanks in advanced 馃槉
 

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Sounds like a combination of O2 sensor and purge valve.
 
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Hi, I have a 2013 Focus ST 52k miles full turbo back exhaust, turbosmart 50/50 bov, cobb intake and recently got a cobb accessport.

I have recently had a full service, plugs changed, decat downpipe replaced as it had a slight hole in the flexi pipe along with a Compression test showing 160psi across all cylinders.

When purchasing the car 4 months ago I didn't notice any idle fluctuation but noticed after driving and getting up to temperature after sitting on idle for around 3 to 5 mins the car would start smoking white/grey but if I accelerated it would clear the smoke and then seem to stop until I let the revs off and resume idle after a few mins it would start smoking again. I took my car to a garage who told me it was a bad map so returned back to stock but still had the same issue. After driving with the stock map it definitely improved and seemed to smoke a lot less often some days I was unable to get it to smoke at all even if I tried. Since then I have also noticed a inconstant rough idle also but some days it will constantly be rough and some days the odd few occasions, I have since taken it to another garage who have not been able to get to the problem either unfortunately and I'm getting to the point where I feel much longer and I will have to get rid of the car as I havnt had chance to enjoy it so wondering if anyone can help at all.

Last week I got a Cobb Accessport, I have been learning a little about the gauges and what to monitor and noticed when my car is idling rough the AFR seems to bounce between lean and ritch, it will start on 14.7 and sometimes stay on that but after sat on idle for a while once the car is warm the the afr seems to drop leaner and keep going down to about 11 whilst this is happening my stft tries to correct but starting taking fuel away - 3, - 6, - 12 ect until it gets to - 28 and then at this point the afr eventually starts going from one end of the scale 11 rich to then back up to 16.... Then it repeats the process and keeps bouncing around. The second I touch the accelerator the car corrects to 14.7 always and seems to be steady on that reading whilst driving allthogh the fuel trims allways seem in the high negatives.

I had never had any codes come on the car before until today I had p26de code come up that seems to be sound symposer related (have a symposer delete kit coming) I have read this can cause a rough idle if it fails? Could this be my issue messing the trims up or any other suggestions? Also the smoke coming from the exhaust? Not sure this has anything to do with the symposer?

Any advice of next steps would be great, I have spend 拢400 upto now taking to places and still no further with finding the problem.

I can provide any logs or videos needed.


Thanks in advanced 馃槉
the symposer can leak vacuum internally and cause unstable idle etc. get that thing off and the manifold blocked off as a first step.
 

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yeah address any potential vacuum leaks and definitely look hard at that O2 sensor. They can be damaged easily, especially the older they get (if original). Even the shock of removing them can damage the sensor without throwing a code.

This is a 2.5 petrol correct?

Take a hard look at your plugs and make sure your acess port is running the most current firmware.

Hope you get this figured out so you can enjoy your ride!

J
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry for the delay and thanks for the replies.. I managed to cure the smoking just the last issue with the idle/afr fluctuation. Just trying to work out how to rule certain things out like o2 sensor, map sensor and injectors.
 

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I would still look hard at the purge value. They are a common failure item and very easy to switch out.
 

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Sorry for the delay and thanks for the replies.. I managed to cure the smoking just the last issue with the idle/afr fluctuation. Just trying to work out how to rule certain things out like o2 sensor, map sensor and injectors.
Considering you had the down pipe changed I would look at the O2 sensor; very good possibility it was damaged in the process. I changed my wide band when I did my down pipe just because they are so sensitive and easily damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you, I will replace the o2 sensor and purge valve as recommended while I'm at it and hopefully that will fix the problem 馃檹
 

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Afterwards don't forget to perform a KAM reset.

Keep us in the loop.

J
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Hi, just thought I would post an update. I removed my purge valve yesterday and noticed that I could blow through and it was not closed today I fitted the new valve and looks like that has solved the problem. I'm so happy I can finally enjoy the car! On idle the the purge valve was never fully closed so sucking air and fuel vapour from the canister by the looks of things.


One question, originally I had a smoking issue along with this. The car smoked only on idle when
warm a few things led me to believe the oil was not draining out of the turbo sufficiently backing up and seeping through seals and burning to me it was same discription that people had with a bad pcv valve building up crank pressure and not exiting the oil return valve properly so I fitted a new oil return valve and also pcv baffle plate but that didn't fix the issue in the end after reading on a mazda forum people having similar issues when decat they tried 5w 40 oil and it cured the problem. I changed the oil and that worked for me the smoke was gone completly Is there anyway this purge valve constantly being slightly open sucking air into the intake manifold could somehow have been the reason for my car smoking and burning oil in the first place? If so might try back the manufactured recommended oil that's all 馃檹 thanks for you help so far!!!
 
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