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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


My car threw this code a weeks ago. Since that time I've replaced the first 02 Sensor. While getting gas today I noticed that after I started my car it was running rich immediately after getting gas, but soon as I get going down the road it evens out. Evap? Purge solenoid? Completely frustrated. Any help would be appreciated.


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The cars always run rich on first start up, so as to heat up the catalytic converter.

You can also monitor Closed/Open Loop status in your AP, and you'll see that until the car is fully warmed up, when engine braking the car will go back into open loop mode.

Have you done a KAM reset after you replaced the O2 sensor?

Hope that helps,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The cars always run rich on first start up, so as to heat up the catalytic converter.

You can also monitor Closed/Open Loop status in your AP, and you'll see that until the car is fully warmed up, when engine braking the car will go back into open loop mode.

Have you done a KAM reset after you replaced the O2 sensor?

Hope that helps,
Mark
No I haven't done a KAM reset. I'll try that. And not sure if it matters but I'm catless as well.


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The cars always run rich on first start up, so as to heat up the catalytic converter.

You can also monitor Closed/Open Loop status in your AP, and you'll see that until the car is fully warmed up, when engine braking the car will go back into open loop mode.

Have you done a KAM reset after you replaced the O2 sensor?

Hope that helps,
Mark
Hey mark,

Are you supposed to do a KAM reset after replacing the O2 sensor? Only reason I'm asking is that once we start to get warm weather here in New England I need to replace my rear O2


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It's an evap and purge valve issue. There's a TSB on it. If you take it into a Ford dealership (if it's still under warranty) they will replace everything for you. Other symptoms include inaccurate gas gauge. You can replace the parts by yourself but no need to go through all the trouble. If you are bringing it into ford, make sure you keep the check engine code active. Don't clear it. However sometimes it can clear itself. Anymore questions feel free to message me

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Also the longer you wait the greater the chance of your gas tank collapsing. ($1000+ in work and labor)

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's an evap and purge valve issue. There's a TSB on it. If you take it into a Ford dealership (if it's still under warranty) they will replace everything for you. Other symptoms include inaccurate gas gauge. You can replace the parts by yourself but no need to go through all the trouble. If you are bringing it into ford, make sure you keep the check engine code active. Don't clear it. However sometimes it can clear itself. Anymore questions feel free to message me

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Thank you for the info! I remember seeing a code for evap something but cleared it thinking it was the 02 going bad. I regret it, I'll take it in to Ford and let them have a look at it. By the way what's a TSB?


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Thank you for the info! I remember seeing a code for evap something but cleared it thinking it was the 02 going bad. I regret it, I'll take it in to Ford and let them have a look at it. By the way what's a TSB?


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Technical Service Bulletin.

It's not a warranty, but if you come in to the dealership complaining of the exact symptoms in the TSB, and the car's condition meets the tests in the TSB, then the dealer performs the work in the TSB at no cost to you -- as if it were a recall or warranty repair order.

Mark
 

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Hey mark,

Are you supposed to do a KAM reset after replacing the O2 sensor? Only reason I'm asking is that once we start to get warm weather here in New England I need to replace my rear O2


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Dunno if you "have to", but whenever there is a hardware change as a matter of course I reset keepalive memory.

Do get the purge valve checked out though!

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Technical Service Bulletin.

It's not a warranty, but if you come in to the dealership complaining of the exact symptoms in the TSB, and the car's condition meets the tests in the TSB, then the dealer performs the work in the TSB at no cost to you -- as if it were a recall or warranty repair order.

Mark
Oh I see. Yeah I'm sure that's my problem now, all in all I hope at least, this had been so frustrating as the car barley even has 14k miles on it.


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Oh I see. Yeah I'm sure that's my problem now, all in all I hope at least, this had been so frustrating as the car barley even has 14k miles on it.


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It's a common problem. The good news is you'll get a next-generation purge valve and/or canister (if already cracked) so you'll never have the problem again.

My purge valve failed with a slow leak, but if it fails so that there is no atmospheric venting to the gas tank, then as the pump delivers gas to the motor the gas tank collapses due to no (or not enough) air coming in to replace the fuel. We have a really good low pressure fuel pump in the tank!

All the best,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It's a common problem. The good news is you'll get a next-generation purge valve and/or canister (if already cracked) so you'll never have the problem again.

My purge valve failed with a slow leak, but if it fails so that there is no atmospheric venting to the gas tank, then as the pump delivers gas to the motor the gas tank collapses due to no (or not enough) air coming in to replace the fuel. We have a really good low pressure fuel pump in the tank!

All the best,
Mark
Thank you for all your help mark! I will report back and let you know what Ford does.


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Non related to the issue, doing a Kam reset every few thousand miles or every few months is always a recommended idea. Your car loses throttle response as it adapts to your driving style, so a lot of highway trips for example will make your car "learn" to mellow out it's throttle response and often times lose a little initial power when you stomp on it. (Edited so AK2112 could understand) So a Kam reset does wonders to performance :) Plus, it fixes a lot of small issues sometimes like this. Unhook the negative wire for a few minutes and reconnect and bam (not literally)
 

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I try to write things in terms lesser knowledgeable users can understand. Since you responded what, you probably know exactly what I'm talking about and are just being a smartass lol.

Edited it to suit your fancy.
 

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Non related to the issue, doing a Kam reset every few thousand miles or every few months is always a recommended idea. Your car loses throttle response as it adapts to your driving style, so a lot of highway trips for example will make your car "learn" to mellow out it's throttle response and often times lose a little initial power when you stomp on it. (Edited so AK2112 could understand) So a Kam reset does wonders to performance :) Plus, it fixes a lot of small issues sometimes like this. Unhook the negative wire for a few minutes and reconnect and bam (not literally)
I could also just press the button on my accessport to reset the KAM


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I could also just press the button on my accessport to reset the KAM


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Correct, we have that wonderful feature which is WAY nicer than standing out in the cold with a ratchet and dealing with the large amount of sparks it throws lol.
 

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Oh I see. Yeah I'm sure that's my problem now, all in all I hope at least, this had been so frustrating as the car barley even has 14k miles on it.


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Yeah my car had about 14k on it when it happened to me. Once parts were replaced the problem hasn't come back and I'm at 21k

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No I haven't done a KAM reset. I'll try that. And not sure if it matters but I'm catless as well.


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If you're catless, there is no need for the O2 sensors, might as well replaced them with an A/F ratio sensor + gauge.
Then again, you'd definitely get a code.
 

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If you're catless, there is no need for the O2 sensors, might as well replaced them with an A/F ratio sensor + gauge.
Then again, you'd definitely get a code.
I have catless, no code. Tuned for it though, that's the difference here. Also, we already have the AFR gauge on the accessport since we have the wideband...couldn't he get a defouler for this also?
 
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