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Has anyone actually looked at their intakes after install and see if these are actually stopping anything? I have seen ports and still show plenty of build up with OCCs. I have the can, just have not installed it as I dont think they are actually protecting against anything useful.

Also most of the build up from what I have seen if actually due to how these engines work, as they open the intake port to help get the exhaust gases out on the exhaust stroke. I am going on 25k miles and have zero performance issues, even right now with it being close to zero degrees out. No starting issues or anything and the car is not driven that hard during the week of back and forth to work, etc.
I think my JBR OCC is doing what it should. I installed it at about 10K and am now approaching 20K. Pulled the intake away from head last week to check build-up. Ports, valves did not look black or oily, but some build-up on valves that was more grey & sooty looking. So I tried the CRC product for valve cleanup but haven't looked back in there yet to see how effective it was. I'm sure I'm not the first to notice this, but significantly more fluid to drain from OCC in cold weather, and of course, more watery as well
 

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I think my JBR OCC is doing what it should. I installed it at about 10K and am now approaching 20K. Pulled the intake away from head last week to check build-up. Ports, valves did not look black or oily, but some build-up on valves that was more grey & sooty looking. So I tried the CRC product for valve cleanup but haven't looked back in there yet to see how effective it was. I'm sure I'm not the first to notice this, but significantly more fluid to drain from OCC in cold weather, and of course, more watery as well
I've checked after installing a Moroso OCC on the IM side, no more buildup or oil getting into my intake tract from that side at least. Having an OCC definitely causes a lot of the buildup that you catch because that's the idea behind it, to have a low pressure area where condensation/particles can fall so you can catch what IS in the flow from the PCV to the manifold. So while we are all catching coke cans worth of fluids every 2-5k miles, I'd bargain to say that at least 50% of it is caused by the OCC...but I'm very glad to be catching the 50% I wasn't getting before.

I had an issue a few months ago where I had a light load miss, that wasn't caused by the electrical issues. After some very intense inspection and diagnostics, it was found that the buildup on the intake valves was causing the issue so I went in with some BG direct injection cleaner and literally scrubbed all of the intake valves...a very thorough process that takes ~3 hours to complete. Needless to say I installed the OCC and have been repeatedly checking my valves during oil changes. Everything is sweet and sound, thanks to the addition of a can and some hoses...
 

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@DoubleD @Unfitproduct How did you mount this on the top? Do you have detailed instructions?

I'm currently running the Moroso but it's mounted back by the turbo inlet and is a PITA to drain every 2k miles, so I'm looking at getting this one and utilizing the quick drain on it.
 

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@DoubleD @Unfitproduct How did you mount this on the top? Do you have detailed instructions?

I'm currently running the Moroso but it's mounted back by the turbo inlet and is a PITA to drain every 2k miles, so I'm looking at getting this one and utilizing the quick drain on it.

Here is a pdf for building the bracket. Also reference the Steeda IM & TB spacers instructions. I added some info to those but did not upload as they are Copyrighted: Steeda Autosports. All good info on easily removing the manifold. Hopefully between this and @Unfitproduct info it should get you there.
 

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Sounds like this is the way to go.. been reading or a while now.. and I'm sold on all the positive experience and how it's helpful towards the car.. my only remaining question is.

I do not change my own oil .. I have the know how and have done it on past vehicles but the opportunity cost of time and savings just isn't enough for me to do it. Anyway =)

How hard is it to empty out the can since it sits so low .. if I'm not the one changing the oil..would I need to jack it up to empty it? Or is it simple enough thst I can ask the person changing it to take care of the OCC at the same time?
 

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Sounds like this is the way to go.. been reading or a while now.. and I'm sold on all the positive experience and how it's helpful towards the car.. my only remaining question is.

I do not change my own oil .. I have the know how and have done it on past vehicles but the opportunity cost of time and savings just isn't enough for me to do it. Anyway =)

How hard is it to empty out the can since it sits so low .. if I'm not the one changing the oil..would I need to jack it up to empty it? Or is it simple enough thst I can ask the person changing it to take care of the OCC at the same time?
Give Matt a call over at Damond, he can set you up with a drain line configuration. I am sure the other vendors can as well. Since mine is top mounted, I just check and drain it from the top. I hate crawling under the car and that god awful, big foot skin they call an underside engine cover.
 

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Is there a way to mount this system in a different location? I don't necessarily want to go through with routing the discharge line somewhere, and don't really like the idea of having to take off the pan to get to it (from underneath). I heard someone say top mount, but is there pictures for a location? I have seen some people put cans where the symposer bracket is, but I am guessing that this is only good for the cans that go to the intake.
 

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I just took the six screws out from the front of the splash cover and lower it down while still attached at rear. Car was not jacked up and I still had enough access. Proceeded to inserted my jar and opened CC valve. Whole process took 10-12 minutes max. Now that I know what I can expect after 2k miles I am more assured that I can go the full 5k to 7k for regular oil changes where splash cover will be removed anyways. I do my own oil changes. Sounds like the steps and added cost of relocating CC would be more of a hassle for me.
 

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So if I have the sound symposer delete.. where would be the most ideal location to install this?? I so far have seen two locations, one is by the intake, the other underneath the engine (exact location im unsure about) I'm trying to look over installation and get a better understanding while waiting for arrival of my OCC. =) Any and all advice would be appreciated. I am still unsure of the pros and cons of either location, and which would be most ideal. This car is my DD , however does see the Auto X and Drag weekends
 

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So if I have the sound symposer delete.. where would be the most ideal location to install this?? I so far have seen two locations, one is by the intake, the other underneath the engine (exact location im unsure about) I'm trying to look over installation and get a better understanding while waiting for arrival of my OCC. =) Any and all advice would be appreciated. I am still unsure of the pros and cons of either location, and which would be most ideal. This car is my DD , however does see the Auto X and Drag weekends
Since you have the symposer delete I would reccommend the bottom right intake manifold bolt for attachment. When making the bracket I considered using the open symposer mounting but did not think it was strong enough. After looking at @Unfitproduct attachment I settled on the intake manifold. If you use that one, still equally tighten all the bolts as recommended by Ford. (start in the top middle and work your way out. Becareful as that when you get the bracket on, it can be deceptive in tightening and you may have to check it everyonce in a while. I never even considered the bottom mount. Too much crawling around under the car for me. Also easier to drain from the top. If you have any questions, PM me and I will do my best to answer. Also any questions, call Matt at Damond. Good guy and real sharp. Take his instructions and the Steeda TB spacer instructions and it all kind of jelled for me
 

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What's the difference between stage 1, 2 and 3?

Tappin' with my G3
 
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